Spanien
Llanes

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    • Dag 17

      Pendueles

      4 maj, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Day 17 The day of flowers.
      I have had a wonderfully happy day stopping at every new flower I spotted, taking a note and/or a photo, (and using Google lens when I didn't already know what it was). I learned a lot! Who can guess how many wild flowers I have spotted and identified in these two days? I hereby offer a prize for the best guess!

      The BEST OF ALL was the bee orchid. Isn't it BEAUTIFUL?! Finding it today took me back to around 1974 when on a church walk one Sunday afternoon, and I (by anecdote) nearly sat on a bee orchid on Swifts Hill, near Stroud (where I grew up). We have the photo to prove my find ( ... for some reason it makes me feel a bit Winnie the Pooh-ish, but I can't remember why).
      And then ... at the end of the day, where I took the extra long route to be close the coast at last again ... take a look at the video.
      I did dip in the little pool, all birthday suit and peppermint feeling
      Sooooo happy
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    • Dag 19

      Nueva

      6 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Day 19
      Asturias is much more rural than Basque country and Cantabria, and I was walking on country paths nearly all day. Really fun to leave the hostel with John from Holland (and no, Dad, he doesn't call it The Netherlands, because for him it's the same thing), at a cracking pace and with easy conversation all the way to Llanes, the first 7 miles of the day. It's a lovely little town, perhaps my favourite so far.
      I then sent a box of things home from the post office, relieving myself of about 1kg of kit: just an accumulation of little things, my toilet bag, and one fleece. I kept the new jacket I bought last week, and reckon that if I get cold I can now wear everything I have with me, layered up, and feel confident it's enough.

      It feels such a privilege and a freedom to walk though idyllic coastal countryside on a clear and warm day, on my own, mile after mile, just taking in the animals, plants, clouds, winds, paths, villages, occasional people ...
      Found horses with bells as well as the many many cows with bells. Was reminded of a poem I wrote when we stayed in a monastery in Switzerland in 2017 while waiting for our US Visas to come through. I'll share it here, just because I can. And because this is what can happen when bells ring:

      The Bells of Ralligen

      The clanging of bells filled the air and brought my heart to attention: 
      “this is it”, they were singing, 
      “this is the moment, 
      here you are and we are too: 
      be happy with us, praise be! “

      It was early morning, 
      no change of lightness yet visible in the cloudy sky over the lake, beyond the mountains, 
      but the bells were urging 
      the waking of the dawn, 
      the bells were calling 
      all ears that could hear, 
      the bells were summoning life 
      out of the noone-nowhere-nothing
      of the long dark night.

      When the church tower fills with the dingdangdong of Sunday beckoning
      there are some few minutes of noise, 
      then a sudden return to emptiness.

      But the cows on the hillside persist, persist,
      insist,
      that we attend
      to grace.

      I'm not thinking all that much, or at least only occasionally thinking about something particular and pursuing an idea. It's been a lot about how I relate to myself and to the world, and to people, about me, noticing how defendedly I've held my heart, (perhaps like any or all of us), and how I don't need that survival mechanism any more. Not sure I can say much more about that right now, as 20 miles is a lot to walk and I'm pretty worn out. I think you'll have to meet me for coffee once I'm home again to ask me what's been going on.

      I'm very happy.

      I booked a hotel room because I couldn't find a hostel where I wanted to be, and paid a little more for a bathtub: BLISSSSSSSSS!

      'Collected' a whole lot more flowers today ... do you remember those 'I spy' books? Tick off each thing when you see it? I can't imagine there are many more flowers in northern Spain than I've spotted so far!
      Lesley, I have MULTIPLES of 17 flowers on my list. You're the only guesser so far but you're waaaaay off! Can't offer the prize for something so off-beam. Someone else wanna take a stab at guessing how many I've identified so far?
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    • Dag 17

      Llegando a la Isla..

      23 maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Hoy hicimos un camino lindo..pueblos misteriosos, llenos de magia, puertos pesqueros con mucha historia, casas inmensos de los indianos!! Los pies un poco cansado pero con entusiasmo!! Celebrando este Momento..Läs mer

    • Dag 17

      ¡Una peregrina!

      27 juli 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      [Ana, Deutsch unten]

      Nuestro taxi ha llegado, y nos ponemos rumbo al taller a recoger el coche. El viaje es largo, y la ruta pasa por Bilbao, después atraviesa Cantabria, y final llega a Euromasters Hoznayo Hoznayo, un mecánico muy recomendable! 😂

      Partimos en dirección a Asturias, donde vamos a parar en Unquera, por donde pasa el camino de Santiago, y mi peregrina favorita, mi madre! La ilusión de una sorpresa es recíproca, tanto el sorprendido como el sorprendente, disfrutan enormemente; así pues, fuimos al hotel donde mamá, Elisa y Andrea se alojarían esa noche, y esperamos a que lleguen, triunfantes, después de 24 kilómetros caminados hoy. ¡Qué emoción encontrarnos así! Nos fuimos directas a comer unas alubias con chorizo.
      Después visitamos el pueblo de al lado, Colombres, donde vimos varias casas indianas, y el museo que reside en la más grande de ellas. Interesante y precioso.

      Al caer la tarde, nos ponemos en marcha hacia nuestro camping para las próximas dos noches, Camping las Hortensias, al lado de la playa de La Franca, otro grandísimo descubrimiento.
      Una vez montada la tienda, fuimos a dar un paseo nocturno, al cobijo de la puesta de sol, descubriendo la inmensidad de rocas, cuevas y formas que alberga esta playa. Como dos niños, fuimos descubrimiendo cada rincón, buscando cangrejos, atravesando pequeñas cuevas, y maravillados con el color del agua y del cielo entre nubes de tonos rosas.

      Terminamos el paseo con unos gambones deliciosos en el chiringuito que hay a pie de playa, acompañados de unas patatas ali oli. ¿Podía haber un final mejor?

      Deutsch

      Unser Taxi ist angekommen und wir sind auf dem Weg zur Werkstatt, um das Auto abzuholen. Die Reise ist lang und führt durch Bilbao, dann durch Kantabrien und schliesslich zu Euromasters Hoznayo Hoznayo, einer sehr empfehlenswerten Werkstatt! 😂

      Wir machen uns auf den Weg in Richtung Asturien, wo wir in Unquera Halt machen, da wo der Jakobsweg vorbeiführt, und meine Lieblingspilgerin, meine Mutter! Eine Überraschung beruht auf Gegenseitigkeit, sowohl der Überraschte als auch der Überrumpelte freuen sich riesig; also fuhren wir zum Hotel, in dem Mama, Elisa und Andrea in dieser Nacht übernachten würden, und warteten auf ihre Ankunft, triumphierend, nach 24 Kilometern, die sie heute gelaufen waren. Was für eine Freude, uns so vorzufinden! Wir gingen direkt zum Essen von Bohnen mit Chorizo.
      Dann besuchten wir das nächste Dorf, Colombres, wo wir mehrere Casas Indianas (Häuser aus der Kolonialzeit) und das Museum, welches im grössten von ihnen untergebracht ist, ansahen. Interessant und schön.

      Am Abend machten wir uns auf den Weg zu unserem Campingplatz für die nächsten zwei Nächte, Camping las Hortensias, direkt am Strand von La Franca, einer weiteren grossartigen Entdeckung.
      Nachdem das Zelt aufgebaut war, machten wir im Schutz der untergehenden Sonne einen Nachtspaziergang und entdeckten die unendliche Vielfalt an Felsen, Höhlen und Formen, die dieser Strand zu bieten hat. Wie zwei Kinder entdeckten wir jeden Winkel, suchten nach Krabben, durchquerten kleine Höhlen und bewunderten die Farbe des Wassers und den Himmel zwischen den rosa Wolken.

      Wir beendeten den Spaziergang mit köstlichen Garnelen in der Strandbar am Strand, begleitet von Kartoffeln ali oli. Könnte es einen besseren Abschluss geben?
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    • Dag 18

      Pendueles 2

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Day 18 Pendueles
      Day off walking; a day of simple pleasures on the beach, writing, going to church (Mass, which was the celebration of Confirmation, with the Bishop! Great friendly feeling in the congregation), talking, reorganising my things... and a return to this Best of All hostels. The right decision.

      Amused to find my flute-y stone twin in church

      Erna, and Dieuwertje, and John, Netherlands, wonderfully deep, personal conversations.
      Ernesta, Lithuania.
      Josh and Katelyn, Washington, US.
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    • Dag 115

      Camino Family

      23 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Der heutige Küstenabschnitt ist einer der schönsten auf dem ganzen Weg. Ich bin mit Sam, Seán, Maru, Nathalie und Shanti unterwegs und wir haben eine tolle Zeit. Was ich mit diesen Leuten erlebe, ist eindeutig eine Camino Family.Läs mer

    • Dag 28

      San Vicente de la Barquera to Pendueles

      7 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      I was really hoping to stay at the donativo albergue Aves de Paso in Pendueles because I had read really good things about it and its owner, but I messaged her yesterday and she wrote back that the albergue is closed until tomorrow due to a death in the family. I ended up at another place with a very nice owner, and the room that I'm in has only four single beds (no bunk beds!). It's after 8 pm and there are only two of us in the room, so it's very comfortable.

      The walk today was on country roads which led to the ocean, so I had nice views most of the way. There was cloud cover which kept the day fairly cool for walking, and it even rained for about 15 minutes.

      Edit to add - I had a great meal at the Mexican restaurant down the street, Casa Flor. Really delicious enchiladas suizas and a margarita.😋. A nice change of pace from the standard menú del día.
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    • Dag 49

      Haushaltssonntag 🫧

      2 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Am Vormittag spazierten wir ein wenig durch die Altstadt von San Vicente.
      Es war relativ viel los und wir waren beide nicht so begeistert. Potes hat uns da definitiv viel besser gefallen. 🙂

      Danach beschlossen wir einen Haushaltssonntag einzulegen, wir fuhren zum nächst gelegenen Waschsalon. 🧦

      Ein Highlight war, als in den Waschsalon fröhlich tapsend ein Corgi (Hunderasse) herein spazierte. Da konnte sich Sophia nicht mehr halten und musste den Kleinen gleich begrüßen. 😍 Er war so freundlich und genoss die Streicheleinheiten. 🥰 Wir freuten uns beide sehr, da wenn wir uns einen Hund nehmen es sicher ein Corgi wird. 🐶🐾

      Die Wäscheleine spannten wir längs durch den Innenraum im Bus. 🙈
      Dann fuhren wir zum Stellplatz für die Nacht, wir stellten uns zu einer Strandbar, die bereits geschlossen war. Der Strand war traumhaft schön, mit rötlichen Felsen. 😍

      Super entspannend war das Meeresrauschen das zu hören war. 🌊
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    • Dag 5

      Playa de Ballota

      24 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      Après une nuit au calme, on se réveille avec le soleil et marée basse ce matin. On profite donc de la belle plage de Ballota. On tente même une petite baignade dans l'eau fraîche.
      Dans l'après midi on prend la direction des Picos de Europa. Après une petite heure de route sur une petite route bien sympathique, on se pose avant l'entrée du parc national sur un grand parking herbeux.
      Il fait beau. On fait une petite balade jusqu'à Covadonga et sa belle basilique.
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    • Dag 12

      Rest Day Bus Santander to Llanes, Spain

      12 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Cutest little city I think I’ve ever seen. It was a big surprise to arrive here by bus from raining and gloomy Santander. Luckily we were able to enjoy the city with Nathalie yesterday because today was not the day to explore. We hopped the bus at 11:30, got to Llanes around 1, dropped our things off at the hostal and had a fabulous day exploring this beautiful town. It’s full of little shops, pastries, chocolates, and restaurants that don’t adhere to siesta. We were able to eat at a normal time (for us), visit a church, walk around the entire town that was full of tourists. It’s one of those towns that are quaint, straight out of a fairytale, but had a vibe like a little city full of all the options you could ever want. I was able to get churros and thick hot chocolate to dip them in, they were fabulous. Holly and I needed this break, while we still managed to clock 6 miles, it was all done with joy and truly felt like a break from the grueling heat and endless roads. We were both in a little funk yesterday after Nathalie left and the rain didn’t help, so today was an absolute blessing and recharge for us both. Sometimes taking a break, giving our bodies some rest and love is just what is needed on the Camino so we can continue full force tomorrow. 30km tomorrow, won’t be easy, but we gave our bodies thanks for getting us this far so it can get us further. Looking forward to following those arrows tomorrow morning.Läs mer

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