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    • TravelerEurope 2024
      11
      Day 20

      Oia to Baiona

      May 31 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      It was hard leaving the wonderful accommodation we had in Oia at La Cala, other than for the snake incident. The morning had us walking along the coast on an asphalt pedestrian path which eventually led to a forested section that had a very much appreciated cafe at the top. The day was hot, up to 30 C with not a cloud in the sky. Eventually we arrived in the famous town of Baiona, where Christopher Columbus returned from the "new world" on the Pinta, 3 days before the king and queen of Spain were made aware of this feat!Read more

    • TravelerCamino De Santiago - Portugues
      3
      3112111131
      Day 20

      Day 12 - Pontevedra to Armenteira

      April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      We woke up this morning and Miquel was gone. Like he evaporated into thin air. It was weird to begin our day without him. The morning started very busy with pilgrims again all jockeying for position on the road out of Pontevedra. We were happy when we got to veer off on the Spiritual Variant route. It was a beautiful walk with very few pilgrims. Maybe that is because there was a huge climb on this route today. In fact Tom had me so nervous about it that we decided it was best to pay a transfer service to move our heavy packs for the day. He told me it was going to be the equivalent of climbing Mt. Lassen in the middle of the day. Climbing Mt. Lassen is one of my least favorite things to do. So we readied ourselves with just the essentials; hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, windbreaker, water, phone, poles, our walking credentials and headed out. We made it to an early lunch stop to fuel up for what promised to be a tough afternoon climb. But once we were out of the steep village streets and onto a wide, mostly dirt, mostly shaded road, it was awesome. About 72 degrees today with a cool light breeze. Yes it was a hill, but it was either such an easy grade or we are in amazing shape. Either way, it was a lovely climb (rough downhill) and it dumped us off right into a bar for drinks and a stroll around the Monastery grounds.

      14.5 miles today, on a not so terrifying climb. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. Only 3 days left of this adventure. 🇪🇸      Read more

    • TravelerPortuguese Glamino 2024
      Day 13

      What to say?

      May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      I don't know where to start! Well, I do... The report this morning was that the bears had found Goldilocks' bed and were more than comfortable, thank you very much! It really was the most comfortable night's sleep we've had, I think. And it's a good job, because today's walk involved 21.6km (that's fine!) with much of it on an incline (that's not fine!) 🙄😱😂.
      We started off at 0730 after a quick breakfast of biscuits and little cakes, kindly left by our host, Raquel. Oh, and there was 'real' coffee - apparently that's a thing!😂
      Our route took us through Pontevedra and across the bridge. and on towards the point where we could choose between the Urban or the Rural (Spiritual) Variant. We'd already agreed we were walking the Spiritual Variant, having booked accommodation in Vilanova de Arousa, two days hence. Today's walk was to take us to half way, to Armenteira and the monastery there, where we hoped we'd find a bed for the night.
      Our first 5km was a bit of a march - the way was flat and it was easy to get some steam up - and even the beginning of the Spiritual Variant was pretty flat. As the boys are a lot quicker than we are, they had strict instructions to motor on ahead and stop at the next café, which only happened to be about 1km from our instructions! It was a small hotel that served the most delicious croissants, French-style, not Spanish-style 👏👏👏, so it was great to take the weight off our feet for a while before beginning our next slog. The next shops were about 6km away, and that's where we decided to stock up for lunch. Luke and Ray sped on ahead, ostensibly to get to the Monastery ahead of the crowds and book a few beds! The messages started coming back thick and fast - directions to take when the signs were poor, and then the news that there were no shops open 😱. It was a good job we were all carrying extra provisions (including Snickers, of course) as they became our lunch and/or snacks, and they were really welcome! There were lots of water fountains to begin with, so we drank lots and filled our water bottles up lots, too.
      The path was becoming steeper and steeper - it was one of those 'just around the corner' days. 'Just around the corner' - it'll go down a bit (no), - there'll be a café to stop at (no), - the walking surface will become softer on our poor feet (again, no!)🙄😂. So there was nothing for it but to carry on walking! Julie and I took a few drink breaks and managed to take a few lovely photos (we can always tell how hard a day it is by the number of 📸 we take).
      The boys were nearing Armenteira in their quest for a bed for the night and we still had about 5km to go (probably more!) so we left them to book into the Monastery and not worry about us! We were always doing the Spiritual Variant and are used to having no accommodation when we arrive and thinking on our feet😂.
      The path led us through eucalyptus woods over surfaces ranging from sand, which was lovely and soft on the feet, to large rocks or shingle-y type stuff, which wasn't so lovely. The final 1km was, thankfully, all downhill, but involved dodging between rocks and stones, which was very tricky (especially when you have big feet!)😉
      And then there they were!!!👏👏👏
      Luke very kindly offered me a coke zero, but tells me I was very grumpy and demanded a beer instead 🙄😂. A couple of beers and a menu del dia later and we were ready to find somewhere to rest our weary heads. Thing was, all of the local accommodation was booked up, but Luke managed to find somewhere for us on Booking.com. We are now installed in a 5 bed, 4 bath stone house with a swimming pool, a lot cheaper than staying at the Monastery would have been! The washing's done and drying, and we've been sitting by the pool (the boys risked it😱) dozing or catching up on our blogs, social media, BIAY whilst listening to some very chilling music 👌. The owner very kindly shopped for us, so we're also enjoying a glass or two of local Albariño 😋😋😋.
      We're discussing our starting point(s) tomorrow - our taxi driver is picking us up at 0730ish and delivering Luke and Ray to the Monastery, whilst Julie and I will go a little further and cut off 7.5km 🙄😂. Well! We've already walked about 230km so we deserve this little treat. And at the speed Luke and Ray walk, we'll likely arrive at our next accommodation (all booked) at the same time😂.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino De Santiago
      4
      Day 16

      Passing through Poio

      July 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Today will probably be our shortest walk of the Camino. I slept in until after 7am! Luxury! 😄 Today we crossed over onto the Spiritual Variant and, for the very first time, we missed the turn!! Luckily, we recognized the error not too far down the trail! The error was due to multiple distractions at the turn off and the marker for the Spiritual Way being much more discreet! I expected much more fanfare! Stopping for lunch here in Poio… not even 2 miles from our destination of Combarro. We ordered burgers and got ham and tuna sandwiches! 🤣🤷🏻‍♀️
      Whatcha gonna do? 😆      Read more

    • TravelerCamino De Santiago
      3
      Day 17

      Arrived in Armenteira

      July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      It was another day of climbing (approx 1500ft elevation). Come to think of it, there really isn’t a day on the Camino where we are not climbing! We woke up to cloudy skies… a first on our trip! I’m not mad! The cool air is a nice change. We mostly walked along forest roads and paths with wonderful smelling minty green eucalyptus bushes. Our first stop, as is a lot of pilgrims, in Armenteira is a cafe. I ordered a coffee with cake… once again ginormous portion! 😳🤣Read more

    • TravelerCamino De Santiago
      Day 17

      Armenteira

      July 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Blink and you would miss this place! Probably only on the map because of the early 14th century monastery that is prominent against the country fields backdrop! Two places to eat and only one albergue! We were glad to have called ahead to reserve our beds two days ago, because it is completely full! It’s our least expensive stay at 10 euros and most basic so far. We attended a “pilgrims blessing service” at the monastery, which was primarily nuns singing scripture and a prayer said over the pilgrims in several languages. Then we ate dinner with 5 other pilgrims we just met! It is so interesting to learn of everyone’s homes, lives, goals, etc!Read more

    • TravelerCamino Portuguese
      Day 10

      Porteverde to Armentiera

      July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      First real feel of being really up in the mountains, definitely steeper and higher than previous days. I managed to miss the "easy to spot" beginning of the Variante Espiritual, so had to cut across country.
      Climbing through woodland and meandering around the Ria de Pontevedra there were beautiful views. Descended to the shore to find lunch at Parque de Seca. The tortilla bocadillo has so far done lunch and supper and there's a quarter left for tomorrow.
      The ascent from here was very steep in places, many rest and water intake stops needed. Looking back at the Ria de Ponteverde, confirmed that the climb was certainly getting higher. Lovely to find drinks provided for walkers at the roadside at
      Steep road eventually turned into forest track. Good to get occasional shade.
      Eventually descended vía a rocky and steep path into Armentiera. Interesting old monastery, home to a community of Cistercian nuns.
      Arrived at hostel at 18:20 and decided to rush through showering to get back to the Monastery to experience the Pilgrim Blessing followed by a quick sangria.      Read more

    • TravelerFrankreich, Spanien, Portugal
      1
      12
      Day 29

      Szenenwechsel

      April 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Nachdem ich gestern eingeschlafen bin, hat es irgendwann in der Nacht angefangen zu regnen. Dabei ist es merklich abgekühlt. Heute morgen waren es nur noch 10°C. Damit hatte ich gar nicht gerechnet, denn für heute ist ja Sonne angesagt.
      Die lässt noch auf sich warten und so ziehe ich die Jacke an und versuche den großen Strand zu erkunden. Zu meiner Überraschung ist der Weg zum Strand durch einen Flussauslauf unterbrochen und ich kann ohne nasse Füße, nicht hinüber. Ich versuche es an ein zwei Stellen, dann entscheide ich mich dafür, an einen anderen Strand zu fahren, auch wenn der Stellplatz toll ist. Inzwischen kommt die Sonne raus, der Wind ist noch frisch, das wird schon 👍
      Der nächste größere Strand, Praia de Lariño ist 15 km weg, einsam mit direktem Zugang zum Strand und so drehe ich dort meine morgendliche Runde. Tolle Wellen und der Wind spielt mit der Gicht, ich liebe es😎.
      Ein weiterer Strand lockt mich und ich mache mich auf den Weg zum Praia de Aguieira. Auf dem Weg dorthin komme ich in die Bucht zwischen Muros und Noia. Das Meer ist hier plötzlich still, die Sonne scheint und man könnte meinen, ich habe mich verfahren und bin an einem italienischen See gelandet.
      Als in Muros dann auch noch Markt ist, und viele Leute unterwegs sind, ist der Szenenwechsel perfekt. Weg vom einsamen rauen Meer, hin zum mediterranen Seeambiente. Ich finde einen Parkplatz und beschließe eine Runde zu drehen.
      Also Pulli aus, T-Shirt an, Schuhe aus, Sandalen ohne Socken an und los gehts ins Getümmel. Kein Vergleich mit den Märkten in Italien, aber trotzdem schön. Noch eine Runde durch den Ort mit seinen schmalen Gassen und weiter geht's. Das milde Klima und ruhige Meer begleitet mich die ganze Bucht lang. Hier ist plötzlich ganz deutlich Frühling. Die Bäume schlagen aus, überall frisches, saftiges Grün. Am Praia de Aguieira angekommen ist zumindest das Meer wieder etwas aktiver. Auch hier, kleiner unauffällig gelegener schöner Strand mit Holzwegen durch die Dünen, sehr schön und natürlich wieder leer. Kein offizieller Stellplatz, aber auch nicht verboten...
      Ich fahre weiter nach Boiro um die Landzunge zu verlassen. Schöner Ort mit nettem Stadtstrand, der Stellplatz liegt aber an der Uferpromenade mit reichlich Verkehr und kostet Gebühr. Überzeugt mich nicht.
      Es ist 16h, ich kann noch ein bisschen Strecke machen und suche mir einen Stellplatz in der Nähe von Pontevedra raus. Die Strecke geht über Land direkt und so bin ich in weniger als einer Stunde da. Der Stellplatz liegt direkt am Wasser, in der Nähe ist ein Fischverarbeitungsbetrieb, ein leichter Fischduft zieht noch über den Platz. Auch hier ruhiges Wasser, nette Promenade SUP Boarder auf dem Wasser und ein voller Stellplatz. Sogar ein Deutscher steht hier mit seinem Caddy und Dachzelt. Ich bleibe hier, wahrscheinlich weil es so anders ist...😀
      Habe dann die Gelegenheit genutzt und ein wenig mit ihm geredet. Arbeitet in der Kundenbetreuung und hat in Spanien überwintert. Aber in einem gemieteten Appartement. Jetzt hat er Urlaub und fährt in Ruhe zurück Auch eine interessante Joboption, wenn man von überall aus arbeiten kann.
      Aber ich kann mir nicht helfen, es ist so anders als gestern oder heute morgen, 22°, windstill, ruhiges Wasser an der Promenade. Selbst die Butter ist plötzlich weich und muss in den Kühlschrank 😀... Fehlt nur noch die Pizzeria an der Promenade.
      Krasser Wechsel einfach so von jetzt auf gleich. Bin gespannt, ob und wann sich das wieder ändert. Ich versuche es auf jeden Fall zu genießen. Der Deutsche hat sein Zelt wieder eingepackt und fährt noch weiter nach Santiago de Compostela. Die Spanier rundherum ignorieren mich, sind ziemlich laut und eigentlich gehöre ich hier nicht hin. Ich bleibe aber trotzdem, ab morgen nehme ich dann wieder andere Plätze.      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerDos Camino
      Day 23

      Camino Portuguese Day 13

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      Yesterday afternoon we were watching what looked like a tractor inspection in the parking lot by the albergue. All small tractors, not like the big ones at home.

      Then we went to a Pilgrim Blessing at the Monastery. I read this story in my guidebook:

      “The Cistercian monastery was founded by a knight called Ero in the 12th century. According to a popular legend, Ero went for a walk in the woods one day and came upon a bird singing so beautifully that he fell into a trance which lasted for 300 years. The monastery was abandoned in 1837; restoration began in 1963, and in 1989 Cistercian nuns moved in.”

      The nuns we saw ranged in age from about 25 to 85. It was a nice service with the nuns singing and then saying the blessing in several languages.

      We got some more sugar packet wisdom this morning. I took a screenshot of the google translation.

      Here’s what the guide book says about today’s walk:

      “This is a stunning stage that follows the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua (‘stone and water route’), passing 51 ancient mills and cascading falls. It then accompanies the River Umia, passing albariño grapevines and fields before reaching the Ría de Arousa and Vilanova de Arousa.      Read more

    • TravelerDos Camino
      Day 22

      Combarro to Armenteira

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We stopped for brunch before the hill. Tortilla Español. This time I shared with Sharon and we still had leftovers for later. Combarro is also known for fishing and horreos.

      Then we started to climb. And climb. We went from sea level to over 450m elevation. Basically uphill for about 9 km. We had some lovely views, but it was challenging.

      We arrived at Armenteira, checked out the Monastery, then checked into the Municipal Albergue. Not fancy today.

      Tomorrow will be almost all downhill.      Read more

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