Melide

"A shoe is not only a design, but it's a part of your body language, the way you walk. The way you're going to move is quite dictated by your shoes." - Christian Louboutin

Day 31 - Airexe to Melide - 22.5km, 5.5hrs walking time.

Today was a great day in so much as I pushed my limits a bit - and it paid off. This is the third day I have done over 20km total walking for the day, and not been so hobbled I couldn’t move later!

I left my Albergue in the pitch dark, at 7:40am. The weather today was very overcast, but the temperature was stable and not too hot, so it was a good day for a walk. It was supposed to be heavy rain all day and I was dreading such a long walk in the rain and boiling as if in sauna, under my poncho. Luckily it didn’t rain until this evening, so I didn’t have to worry about it.

First goal was to get to Palais del Rei -7.5km away. Most of this was road walking on a trail beside the road, or on the road itself. I was quite happy that I was clocking a hair over 4km per hour, by the time I got there. Perfect place for a breakfast stop and to hit up an ATM as I was running seriously low on funds. As I was half way through my breakfast, in come Liz and Sally from last night. They stayed for a coffee and to check on my feet. At that point, so far so good. The podiatry felt was feeling comfy and I was not in any pain from the ankles.

Once we hit the road, they are no match for me. Liz is a fast walker naturally, and even with two bad knees, Sally passes me within minutes hahaha. Oh well, I’m slow but I get there in the end. These wonderful ladies kept pace with me (slowing themselves down) for a good 5 or 6 km which was lovely. We had some great conversation and a few tears (from me - duh!) and finally parted ways on a bit of an uphill that I knew would take me longer than them. I did see them a bit later at marker 59km, as I stopped at the Happiness Cafe for an amazing yogurt/granola/fruit and nut bowl for lunch. Amazing! I would love to have had the Belgian waffle with Canadian maple syrup (the owner is American and imports the syrup), but there is no way I would have done the last 6km if I did that!! Learned that lesson the hard way, previously. The yogurt bowl was more than I needed too but I felt justified that at least it was healthy :-)

The Way after Palais del Rei almost all the way to Melide was through forests and dirt paths. Some road walking, but not over much. I do prefer the trails to the road. And I prefer both of those to villages that have beautiful crazy paved roads. They look wonderful but I find them hell on my feet. I need to be looking down at my feet all the time as the stones are so uneven. Ah well - it is what it is, right?

At one point, I came across and elderly couple who were scavenging chestnuts from the ground. This is not unusual, but they were an adorable couple. I had been walking with a Belgian man for a short while and we both picked up some chestnuts and gave them to the couple. The woman proceeds to use her teeth to crack open the chestnut husk to get to the hut inside. Once she has done this, she hands it to the Belgian guy to eat. To hos credit, he thanked her politely in Spanish, wrote taking a bite. I had started to walk away, as I did not see myself accepting food that had been in someone else’s mouth! It was a lovely gesture for sure - but a bit out of my comfort zone.

2km later, I am strolling into Melide. Can’t find my Albergue for some reason although I had seen it in a map of the city. Google maps to the rescue. Ooopss… it is still 1.5km away in the city of Melide. Apparently I was still in the town before. My bad! And how depressing that I still had another 1.5km to go! Off I set to complete the last of the walk to the city.

I am in a lovely Albergue tonight and there are only myself and a Belgian woman named Elise to share a room for 4. Bonus!! Funny enough, when I told Annette yesterday that I was staying in this city tonight and mentioned the Albergue, she told me she is staying next door at the pension with the same name. How weird that out of all the Albergues in this city, I would choose the one next to where she is staying. It worked out well as we enjoyed a couple of wines together before heading out to dinner. We also invited Elise and another pilgrim - Paul - that has been in the same Albergues as I have been, for the last 3 nights. Out we went in the rain (it had started around 5pm) to the most popular Pulpo joint - Garnacha Pulperia. When we arrived, we spotted Lucinda (a friend of Annette’s) who was there alone. We asked if we could join her, so the five of us ate together.

The Pulpo (octopus) is famous in this city. It is eaten today as it used to be on a simple wooden plate with a good dollop of olive oil and sprinkle of paprika. It is eaten by spearing with a toothpick and usually served with bread and wine. We also ordered grilled and salted padron peppers, croquettes and grilled Pulpo which is served with a garlic butter. Everything was fabulous - food and company. We all left feeling very full and satisfied.

I am very happy with the engineering job Liz did with my shoes. My ankles are both a bit twingey and it still takes me a minute or two to move well, but neither ankle is in as much pain as any day up until now. I’m thrilled! Let’s hope this holds out til Santiago. Cheers, Liz!! Now all I need to worry about is the one toe with the blister (that I rarely mention as it doesn’t bother me). Looks like it is getting infected, so I will have to keep an eye on it.

Tomorrow is a shorter day - a mere 14.2km, so we are in no rush to head out. The forecast looks miserable for days, so fingers crossed it changes! I think I am a fair weather walker, for sure.Read more