Spain
Museo del Bierzo

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    • Day 49

      At Ponferrada, another lovely day

      May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Today was easy for me, and a hard downhill walk for Amr. He left at 8am and set off for the hardest downhill bit to Molinaseca….some loose stones, and some sloping slate…so glad it wasn’t raining…after Molinaseca it is ok walking, but a not very interesting path along the road into Ponferrada. As I got my taxi at 9.30 (Luís from yesterday) I was amazed seeing from the road how steep and mountainous this section is. But I rode past in my taxi, and was dropped near the Plaza del Ayuntamiento where our hotel is. Much too early to check in, but was able to get a map and info on how to find a laundromat and the bus station. Also could leave my main backpack and just take my valuables in a small bag. Easy.

      A lovely day, and much warmer now that we are down from the heights. Ponferrada is a comfortable city, and found the nearby laundromat and set off for the bus station, which turned out to be a 2 km walk along an Avenida in the modern part of the city. Good to know where to find it tomorrow when I get a bus to Villafranca del Bierzo. The bus station was undergoing renovations, as they all seem to be, and not organised from what I could see, and a long line waiting at a ticket machine, so decided to do it online…never quite sure if you can hop on and just pay cash. When I did do it on my ipad I had to charge the credit card €1.85!! A little cheaper than the €30 taxi rides…I guess it all balances out!!

      So that was quite good walking, and when I got back Amr was soon going to arrive…sat on a bench in the square and waited…so good. Arrived at about 12.15 I think. He said it was as tough as I had remembered, and we sat at a bar and had beers and tostadas…and a nice chat with Kelly from Port Macquarie who we had shared a dinner table with last night, and I also saw Lucy from Wales (also at dinner) as she arrived into Ponferrada, but she is going to stay a little further on today. You keep seeing the same familiar people popping up from time to time.

      By that time it was almost ok to check in and our room was ready, so unpacked and took all the dirty clothes to the laundromat! A clean start tomorrow! Had a wander, only in shirts - the first time not in layers and jackets…it will cool down overnight, but only to about 6 and soon warms up again, specially if you are walking…we are having dinner tonight at a rather nice looking restaurant attached to the hotel..La Violeta.
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    • Day 26

      Day 24 walking!

      June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      We left Molinaseca with a chill wind in the air but it soon warmed up. We initially walked the 6km along quiet roads into historic Ponferrada which is major city with cathedral and castle fortifications. We managed to avoid most of the new urban parts of town. We did make a pit stop on way in and for the first time I noticed rugby posts, so I took a photo of them for you David!
      The old part of town had lovely cobbled streets and open plaza’s, and lots of interesting features, I love their outdoor exercise equipment! We were so busy chatting, we managed to lose the way markers and had to search them out!
      It wasn’t too hard to find the Camino or the ‘way of St James’ again, especially when helpful locals point it out to you!
      The way was mainly gentle gradients today and we seemed to be walking both parallel and towards mountains so fabulous panoramic views! Plus we’re passing lots of vineyards, but none open as it’s a Sunday. We passed through some lovely quaint villages, and after about 25 Km I decided to take the bus for the last 5Km, I had previously checked out the bus times at the local tourist office!
      We’re staying at lovely modern Albergue Viña Femita in Villafranca del Bierzo, which also has fortifications, haven’t had time or energy to explore it! And my toe seems ok with the walking today 😊
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    • Day 3

      Ponferrada | El Templarin Hostel

      May 3 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Ich bin länger schon nicht mehr 5 Stunden Bus gefahren, aber ich muss sagen: das war ganz nett. Gerade zu Beginn und am Ende gabs richtig was zu gucken, da hat sich der Fensterplatz gelohnt. Der Busfahrer ist sehr gut und zügig gefahren. Ankunft war 16 Uhr. Dann zum Hostel 20 Minuten gegangen und direkt einen gelben Pfeil entdeckt. Ich weiß also bereits, wo es morgen lang gehen soll. Ich bin an einem schönen Flusslauf entlang zu meiner kleinen Herberge. Und stand vor verschlossener Tür. Hatte einen Code per Email bekommen, der mich reinließ, aber die Rezeption war nicht besetzt, weil ist ja noch Siesta. Herrje, daran muss ich echt denken, dass ich nicht zu den “falschen Zeiten” irgendwo aufschlage. Naja dann erstmal hingesetzt und Handy a die Steckdose. Das erste Gespräch mit drei Niederländerinnen verlief eher nicht so prickelnd. Die wollten mir nicht so recht helfen und sind dann weggegangen. Ok. Dann kam irgendwann die junge Frau von der Rezeption und ich wollte einchecken. Ein Asiate sprang davor und wollte zuerst dran sein, da er ja vor mir da war. Na klar, kein Problem, ich warte einfach. Der Herr hatte dann natürlich noch Sonderwünsche in welchem Bett er genau schlafen will. Ich bekam Bett 8 in einem Zwölfer Zimmer und hatte eine nette Unterhaltung mit der jungen Frau. Erst einmal die ganze Wäsche in die vorhandene Waschmaschine. Denn die ersten 3 Sets (und damit die einzigen drei) wurden mit dem heutigen Tag aufgebraucht. Damit ich so viel wie möglich waschen konnte, hatte ich am Ende einfach nur noch einen Pullover und eine Hose an, dass ich nichts drunter hatte merkte ja niemand. Folgt mir für mehr Profi Tipps! 😄

      Auf meinem Bett lag keine Decke (meist werden Wolldecken ausgegeben, da die meisten Pilger nur dünne Schlafsäcke dabei haben, so wie ich). Ich also nachgefragt und es waren schon alle weg. Die letzte ging gerade vor 10 Sekunden in die Hände eines anderen Pilgers. Dabei war die Unterkunft nur zu 2/3 belegt. Hat wohl keiner mit den Temperaturen gerechnet (aktuell 12 Grad und Regen). Also bin ich in dem Hostel auf die Suche gegangen und habe in einer Sitzecke auf einem Sofa eine kleine dünne Decke gefunden. Die in Kombination mit meinen Handtüchern sollte es dann richten. Es geht sich immer irgendwie aus, aber auf frieren habe ich keine Lust. Und meine ganzen anderen Sachen sind ja noch nass von der Wäsche. We will see!

      Darauf doch erst einmal eine kleine Sightseeingtour durch Ponferrada im Regen. Ist ganz schnuckelig hier und die Berge im Hintergrund ergeben schon ein schönes Panorama. Ponferrada hat tolle alte Gemäuer, einen hübschen Uhrenturm, einen großzügigen Dorfplatz mit kleiner Bücherausstellung, eine schöne Basilika und eine pompöse mittelalterliche Festung. Diese ist wohl das bekannteste Wahrzeichen von der Kleinstadt.

      Die meisten Restaurants machen erst 20 Uhr auf, aber ich fand einen Kebabladen, der eine 4,8 auf Google hatte, und bereits um 19 Uhr öffnete. Also los, der Hunger hing mir in den Knochen, also gab es einen Dönerteller mit etwas Salat und ein paar Pommes. War gar nicht mal so geil. Aber die scharfe Salsa hat’s etwas aufgepeppt und der Hunger trieb es rein. Dazu einen Eistee. Speicher wieder aufgefüllt. Ich wollte dann noch etwas spazieren, entschied mich dann jedoch zügig wieder auf den Heimweg zu machen, da es doch ganz schön kalt war.

      Gleich noch duschen, gewaschene Sachen checken und langsam bettfertig machen.

      Übrigens: die junge Frau vom Empfang kam gerade zu mir und hat mir eine halbe Decke besorgt. Warum es nur noch die Hälfte war, weiß ich nicht genau, sie meinte es gab einen Unfall mit einem Italiener - ok. Was auch immer das bedeutete und wie es dem Herren heute geht: ich habe eine wärmere halbe Decke! Das ist doch schon mal um die Hälfte besser als zuvor!
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    • Day 27

      Ponferrada 26 km

      September 26, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Mit leichtem Nebel ging es Richtung Chruz de Fierro. Sehr Eindrücklich und mit Gänsehaut durfte ich nach über 2000 km zu Fuss meine mitgebrachten Steine ablegen. Danach ging es meisten abwärts bis ins Ziel. Superschöne Natur durfte ich geniessen.Read more

    • Day 25

      Ponferrada

      August 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Wie immer tauchen natürlich auch heute wieder einige bekannte Gesichter (Alessio, Carla, Martin, Cecile,...) in der Unterkunft auf, ohne das man sich irgendwie verabredet hätte. (Und es gibt unzählige Herbergen in Ponferrada) Aber das ist hier halt so. 😂

      Nach Dusche und Waschen besichtige ich mit Martin gemeinsam die Tempelritter Burg und gehen anschließend gemeinsam mit Cecile zum Abendessen.
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    • Day 19

      Sixteenth stop - Ponferrada

      May 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      Villares de Óbrigo -> 15km (+52km by train) -> Ponferrada
      After yesterday's beautiful diner, which was a real melting pot of nationalities, today we walked to Astorga, where we visited the beautiful Cathedral and walked around town. From there we took a train (and skipped a huge storm it seems) to Ponferrada from which we will continue the road tomorrow!Read more

    • Day 25

      Day 25 - Camponaraya

      October 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      Before we left Ponferrada today, I spent an hour touring El Castillo de Los Templarios. After walking past so many castle ruins along El Camino, it was a treat to wander around this restored property.

      The Templars occupied the original structure in 1178, and expanded upon it until they were disbanded in 1312. They were tasked with protecting pilgrims on El Camino de Santiago from the Moors, securing an adjacent iron bridge with strategic importance between Galicia and León, as well as serving the Kings of Spain.

      Informational panels around the grounds explain how it has been fought over and changed ownership during subsequent centuries.

      Walking its ramparts, it’s easy to feel transported to times long past.

      After leaving Ponferrada, we ran into Bronwyn, a pilgrim from Australia who we first met at Orisson, and who we’ve since encountered several times along the Way. We chatted for a bit, and then she sped off, as she was hoping to go three times as far as our 10k today.

      We stopped for lunch in Fuentesnuevas, opting for Restaurante La Casona based on its 4 1/2 star Google rating. It was fantastic, and it seemed we were the only pilgrims there.

      We only had another 2 kilometers to walk after lunch, and we were happy to be settled into tonight’s hostal room shortly after 4 p.m.

      Tomorrow’s destination is Trabadelo, 24 kilometers away.
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    • Day 28

      Day 28

      September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Messed up getting out of town this morning, so another couple of km’s added on 😂.. I’ve decided ( so has Steve 😬 ) I’m seriously rubbish at reading a map!! The Camino ninja app Norbert told me about is definitely a must for other rubbish map readers out there.
      For some strange reason, I was expecting today’s section to be flat.. it wasn’t at all .. no out and out climbs or descents, but really up and down through lots of villages and unbelievable scenery that just doesn’t come across on a photo as it’s so vast !!
      I had also assumed after last week that the weather had definitely turned autumnal… wrong!!! Absolutely boiling today ( it was still 28 degrees at 8pm ) not a cloud in the sky and not a breath of wind !!
      Note… today I saw my first Croc wearer!!! Why!!!that’s all!!!
      Villafranca del Bierzo is absolutely beautiful and well worth staying a night in… another fab meal and obviously.. red wine 😬!!! It tastes so much better in Spain.. I’m going to be the only person who goes home from a mammoth walking holiday fatter than when they started 😳
      I caught up with Yvonne and Hazel today, they’ve booked the donkey ride for O Cebreiro, so I hope I catch up with them again before we’re done to hear all about it.
      Although it seems in some ways like I’ve been away for such a long time, I can’t believe that I’m down to my final 10 days!! I was pretty confident I’d be ok with the walking, but have to admit I had massive fears and doubts about dealing with everything else on my own… I’ll be super proud of myself for doing so next week…
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    • Day 27

      Ponferrada 2

      June 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      As stated I have a very short stage today so basically took all the extra time I wanted to walk around Ponferrada look at various things...

      So there's this sculpture about the legend:

      In Ponferrada, León, there is a very large castle. The castle is from the 12th century, it is on a small mountain and it is impressive. It was an imposing castle and belonged to the Knights of the Order of the Templars. The castle of Ponferrada was the most emblematic, most important and largest castle of the order of the Templars in the Iberian Peninsula.

      Legend has it that there is a hidden treasure in the castle of Ponferrada. This treasure was the greatest treasure of Christianity:
      The Holy Grail.
      The tablets of Moses with the ten commandments from Mount Sinai.
      King Solomon's table with all the knowledge of the universe.
      And gold, lots of gold...
      It's possible? It is true? Is the treasure of the Christians in the castle of Ponferrada?

      It's a posibility. This is the story, it is the legend of the Castle of Ponferrada..

      The 11th and 12th centuries in Europe were very complicated and dangerous. The Crusades, the terrible battles of Christian warriors against the infidels, were permanent.

      The 11th and 12th centuries were also centuries of pilgrimage. Jerusalem and Santiago de Compostela were very important cities in Christianity... The route to Santiago de Compostela grew and grew, in Santiago de Compostela there is the tomb of the apostle Santiago. The pilgrims were very numerous and the attacks on the pilgrims were cruel and intense. The protection of pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela was absolutely necessary.

      The Order of the Templars was a very powerful Christian military order in Europe in the Middle Ages. The Templar warriors were brave and relentless warriors. The white tunic and red cross were distinctive signs in Christianity, the sign of protection for the Christian faithful.

      The Christian faithful headed for Santiago de Compostela needed protection! The Templars made their way to the Iberian Peninsula and effectively protected the pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostela route from attack.

      The Templars built many castles on the Iberian Peninsula. There were many, many new castles.

      Legend has it that the Knights Templar hid the treasure of Christianity in the castle of Ponferrada: the gold of the Crusades, the Holy Grail, the Ark of the Covenant with the tables of Moses and King Solomon's table. They were the guardians of the treasure...
      Hmmmm... not the Legend I was talking about but heck the Holy Grail? Moses's 10 tablets? and King Solomon table of knowledge?... all in this Castle? I would probably keep it locked every day of the week not just Monday 😇😁

      And no thankfully we did not have to go up that streetI
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    • Day 11

      The Mystery of Water

      May 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      Walking through any small town,village, or hamlet you will see these bottles filled with water. Apparently, natives believe it will turn away unwanted pests. I have seen similar things with ziploc baggies of water stapled to the wall of a café to keep flies out in the US Southwest. The belief works like this: a dog, or cat, will pee on the bottle which keeps from eroding the adobe or plaster.
      Most likely it’s more like this:
      Typically the way this works is a homeowner leaves the bottle out front. A cat comes along and rubs its face all over the bottle. A dog smells the cat has been there and pees on the bottle to mark it. A swarm of flies is attracted to the dog pee. And then along comes a pilgrim, “Hey! Free water!”
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    Museo del Bierzo

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