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    • RejsendeRioja e Chipirones
      Dag 21

      Un último día

      20. maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Nach der stürmischen Nacht auf dem 2. schönsten Platz auf dem Berg 🏔 ist am morgen alles wieder ruhiger und wir machen einen kleinen Spaziergang zwischen Schafen, Kühen und Wildpferden - obwohl so wild sind die garnicht - sie tragen ja Glocken. Dann kommen ganz viele Geier geflogen und kurze zeit drauf sind wir sprachlos… erst entdecken wir ein totes Schaf und denken 🤔 noch so : okay kein Wunder dass hier so viele riesige Geier sind…. Dann gehen wir noch ein Stück weiter …. Knochen 🦴….. und dann eine Arte Tierfriedhof …. Pferde, Kühe und ganz viele Geier …. So ist die Natur wohl….
      Danach geht es auf ins Tal…. Wir wollen noch eine wohl bekannte höhle besuchen … und landen in einer Hexenstadt … auch gut.
      Jetzt müssen wir uns von Spanien trennen- es sind nur wenige Meter bis zur Grenze.
      Die Nacht verbringen wir auf einer netten privaten Wiese in der Dordogne.      Læs mere

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    • Camino de Santiago
      Dag 6

      Hiking into the clouds- Orrison

      19. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      We left our sweet little pension in St Jean and headed into the Pyrenees this morning. Wait- let me talk about the pension before I forget. Last night I went to sleep listening to the laughter and murmurs of the bar down the street and happy pilgrims about to begin their journey. I woke this morning to the sounds of pilgrims on their way down the street and at 7am when I set my alarm, the church bell drowned out my artificial ring tone- calling everyone in. Soon sounds of singing drifted down the street into our window. It was lovely.

      Last night was hot… remember… 108 degrees yesterday?! And Jon and I only had a window. The boys slept in the attic and had an air conditioner and when I went up to wake them up their room was actually chilly!!! At least THEY had a good night’s sleep.

      The heat wave broke today and although it is still very very humid, the temperature was suitable and an answer to my prayers. We left at 9am and the breezes from the mountains kept us moving higher. I could NOT have done today’s hike with yesterday’s temperatures. The Way provided.

      We are staying the night in an ancient shepherd’s house in an alburgue. There is a community meal tonight and we ordered sandwiches for our lunch tomorrow. I made all of these plans months ago at Christmas so it has been hard for me to remember what I planned which has been fun because it’s like a surprise for me!

      The community meal felt like a scene from an old epic poem. We all sat and ate as a community at the hearth of a large stone fireplace and everyone introduced themselves and explained why they were there. The conversation was really cool-listening to stories of people from all over. I sat by a young 20’s German kid who quit his job as an engineer for Mercedes’ Benz to live on a commune and teach yoga. The dinner was chicken soup and veggies with a basque cake. I was starving and it was delicious. Even Daniel ate his veggies!

      Oh also huge shout out to Jon for Fathers Day. I am grateful that he is willing to follow me on this crazy adventure! (And we really do make a good travel team- ask us to clean out the garage together and that’s a different story.)

      It didn’t rain today. Will the weatherman be wrong again tomorrow?!      Læs mere

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    • Camino de Santiago
      111113
      Dag 7

      Orrison to Roncesvalles

      20. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      There were no storms or rain today in the Pyrenees as the weatherman predicted but we did walk through the clouds.

      Breakfast was a small pilgrims breakfast of bread and jam. I think the boys had hoped for more. But we grabbed our sandwiches for lunch and took off up the mountain following the yellow arrows. Most of us were prepared with waterproof backpack covers but Jon sent his pack ahead with a courier because he was worried about his backpack getting soaked. He went with nostalgia when he chose his backpack because it’s the pack he had carried through Europe many times. He didn’t have a cover for his as a result like the rest of us. He enjoyed a pack-free hike today as a result.

      We climbed and climbed into the clouds- only seeing sunshine at the very top before heading back down on the other side. My hair and raincoat were soaked but everything else stayed dry. Along the way we could hear the baaa’s of sheep and mooo’s of cows and especially the eerie sounds of the low ringing from the bells they wore around their necks. We could only see them when they were very close because the fog was so thick but we knew they were around us.

      They trail was tough but as we climbed higher and higher there were safety stops for shelter in storms or for calling for help. I think many people have died en route (we saw a few memorials) and this is a modern solution. Wells for water are plentiful too. There was even a food truck in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere. It was on our map and a true landmark on the trail. We bought a mid morning granola bar from him and used his WC (a rock behind the truck) and got another stamp and felt refreshed for a few more hours of hiking.

      We made it to the old monastery in Roncesvalles by 1:30 and reunited with many of our Orisson friends. The alburgue is very old (end of 12th century) practical and clean. Extremely efficient. No shoes inside at all! We sleep in cubbies of 4 bunks in huge rooms. Each room holds 100 people. I used my Z-quill to sleep last night and it worked great so I think I’m going that route again tonight to drown out the snorers.

      We had a snack on the patio of fried food and beer while we waited for the room to open at 2pm and now await the evening meal by showering and taking an afternoon siesta. (We are in Spain by the way now.)

      Dinner was a 3 course meal (The hungry pilgrims were very pleased except for the poor vegetarian at our table). Again we sat with some fun Americans we roomed with last night in Orisson (one is a middle school math teacher) and a fun German woman we met in Orisson. I’ll be sad to lose them when we pass them up in Pamplona.

      Speaking of… I have heard rumors of fires driving pilgrims off the road near Pamplona. That could be the next obstacle.      Læs mere

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    • Camino de Santiago
      1
      Dag 8

      Rocesvalles to Zubiri

      21. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      Today was test of our endurance. The mountains of the Pyrenees in our last two days were hard but we were starting with fresh legs. Today I started sore and it was a long 22 km hike through the foothills on what the boys dubbed the spine of the Pyrenees. Some kind of seismic uplift created a sideways shale spine of rocks which was our trail. I didn’t get a good picture of it but it was brutal on the feet. I just yearned for flat ground. Twenty two km isn’t easy but it’s even harder balancing on spikey rocks. But we did it and the waters of Zubiri was a great reward in the shadow of a 12th c. bridge. Our hostel is clean and new and has laundry with free soap so we couldn’t pass that chance up. The little yard has a clothesline for us to use.

      We kept leap-frogging with people we knew on the trail the whole way here. The first part of the hike was beautiful going through woods (one of the areas has a sign that said that it was called “witches woods” because 9 witches were burned at the stake there! Spooky!!!), little farm towns and playing with the cats who greeted us knowing that pilgrims often bring food and head rubs. Daniel was in Heaven. We bought lunch at a Mercado and I carried a grande baguette a few hours (it kept rubbing into low pine tree branches on the trail but don’t tell my people- what they don’t know won’t hurt them). We ate it at an outdoor restaurant with a few other familiar faces from the trail.

      Dinner was the ONLY restaurant in Zubiri but thankfully we got there before the crowd and got a table. We told the next wave of people (again- friends from the trail) to drink lots of beer because it was going to be a long wait. We ate off the pilgrim’s menu but thankfully we had some choices. I had paella and flan. The wine was a mere 2 euros a glass. Since we are early, Jon and the boys are playing cribbage in our little backyard with astroturf. (Btw, we keep running into a Korean mom and son who cook their food wherever they land! Tonight they are also in our albergue. They are carrying carrots and rice in their packs. Impressive!)      Læs mere

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    • Camino de Santiago
      1111
      Dag 9

      Zubiri to Pamplona

      22. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      We have a wrench in the plan. It changes everything. I’ll get to that in a minute.

      Yesterday started well again. I think we were in a very nice groove of hiking by 9am and we felt like we were making good time. Jon has had some feet issues that has slowed him down a bit but he’s a trooper and isn’t complaining. He bought new boots for the trip and didn’t quite break them in enough. Also he has a heat rash all over his feet which also has turned into blisters. On the other hand Aiden brought a pair of hole-y sneakers (which I was horrified to see him wearing when it was too late at the airport because I asked him if he needed new shoes). His feet are fine and so are the rest of ours. Go figure. We got a stamp a few hours into our hike by a volunteer at a church who was also giving advice. Our goal was to stay ahead of the ladies group who had no image of athleticism but somehow was always on our tail catching up to us when we had just seen them doing yoga in a town square. How do they do it?!

      We always seem to drag after lunch and the last two hours are rough. But we made it to Pamplona by 2pm and checked into our air conditioned hotel!! Yay!!! Ollie and I went to the train station to get jet out reservations for Sarria. Here’s the snafu. No reservations available. Not for a week! We can’t get on a train!!!! The renfe site wouldn’t let me book the tickets ahead of time using my Eurail pass so it had to be in person. I worried about this part of the trip but assumed they could add more cars on a train if it fills up. Nope. I think it’s a combination of fires south blocking the trail, pope announcement that he’s going to Santiago, and maybe some construction on a route. It’s the trifecta of problems for us. In fact there are no trains to northwest spain at all. So… what do we do? Here’s our plan so far. We booked another night in Pamplona to rest and decide. Today we talk to the pilgrim’s office and make a solid plan. To be continued….      Læs mere

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    • naturweltenbummlerDer Sonne entgegen
      Dag 66

      Pamplona/Iruña

      23. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      Außertourlicher Stopp in Pamplona auf dem Weg in die Pyrenäen … wir haben’s ja nicht eilig. Die Stadt hat uns doch recht positiv überrascht und der Stellplatz in der Nähe der Altstadt ist auch ok. € 10,- für 24 Stunden, inkl . Strom, finden wir mehr als in Ordnung.
      Als wir am frühen Nachmittag hier angekommen sind waren noch gut 1/3 der Plätze frei. Als wir am Abend vom Stadtspaziergang retour kamen war er voll.
      Abendessen hat heute wieder der „Chef“ gezaubert: Spargel-Champignons-Risotto. 😋
      Morgen geht’s aber endgültig in die Pyrenäen.      Læs mere

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    • Camino de Santiago
      Dag 10

      Stuck in Pamplona

      23. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      I left off this journal yesterday not knowing if we were going to get out of Pamplona and if we would even finish our journey. We went to bed after a few prayers a very lovely bottle of local wine (the waitress for some reason gave me the whole bottle?!) and slept in a great hotel with air conditioning and was served a genuine all you can eat breakfast (the boys made good on that deal) and suddenly the answer was in front of us. We needed to ask the pilgrims office for help. It just so happened to be right around the corner from our hotel. The pilgrims office helper called around and typed into his computer like a mad man and threw out the wild idea of taking an over night bus to Sarria. We had to decide how badly we wanted to finish this. Our other option was to head to the Mediterranean and sit in Barcelona for a week. Everyone agreed to continue on. I guess we are on a mission (dare I say “from God”?!). We leave tonight at 10:30pm and get to Sarria at 10:33am tomorrow. Then we start hiking again. Now, I know my limits. And there is no way I can do a 24km hike after a red eye bus ride. So we booked a taxi service to get us right at the 100km mark outside Santiago so our compestellas are still legit. We hike 10km (much easier) and stay in an apartment in Pontmarin and we are back on track with timing. I had already canceled all of my hotel and albergue bookings so we wouldn’t lose money when I thought we wouldn’t make it. So now we hike like real pilgrims with no plans and hope for the best. Buen Camino! (God is protecting us and helping is through the journey! I kind of think these frustrations are all a part of his plan to teach us. The boys definitely learned how to handle set backs. No one panicked. No one argued. We just worked it out and the answer was presented to us.)

      So what did we do with our time today? We walked around town and saw the running of the bulls road and the stadium. We saw the wall and the park. We sat in a cafe for hours while it rained and had hot chocolate and churros. It was a day of resting our legs. Jon bought some new shoes and socks and is already free of his heat rash. Oh. Also, I insisted on Donner Kebab for dinner. I lived in that stuff when Jon worked in Germany and I roamed the streets of Heidelberg every day. It was a fond trip down memory lane for me. Tomorrow we catch up to our schedule and are back on track.      Læs mere

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    • Camino de Santiago
      Dag 8

      End of roncessvalles to zubiri

      21. juni 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      I keep forgetting to start recording at the beginning of our hike. Oh well. This one is from tuesday, when we (most of us) were feeling pretty good. For a time, Ollie carried my pack and daniel carried two - his and Ollie’s — to try to help me overcome some feet and blister problems (and just keep up in general). Bless them.Læs mere

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    • RejsendeCamino de Santiago
      Dag 7

      Day 5 - Rest day in Pamplona

      13. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

      Day 5 - Rest day in Pamplona
      Today I had a rest day. Or so I thought. But I ended up walking 10 to 12 km throughout the day. I visited a beautiful church! A famous Catholic in Pamplona called “Catedral de Santa María la Real de Pamplona”. So beautiful, as Catholic churches are! I also shopped for a bag to send some of my overpacking to Santiago to wait for me. It was a nice break.Læs mere

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    • RejsendeCamino de Santiago 2022
      12
      Dag 6

      Day 3 - A day of reckoning

      18. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      ."Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience” - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

      Day 3 - Villatuerta to Villamayor de Monjardin
      -13.1 km

      7:15 am start and today was a hard day. Physically and emotionally. I definitely had a leak in my waterworks! So many times today I just cried. I am disappointed in the distances I’m walking as they are not as long as I had hoped. Disappointed in myself for gaining my weight back, not training for this and all manner of other things. And honestly, despite the beauty, the amazing people I have met and the fact I am privileged enough to be here at all, I just kept thinking “I am NOT having fun. I am NOT enjoying this”. One thought built on the other and went on repeat as I slowly worked my way up and down hills and through towns.

      I rested a lot. Had breakfast in Estella at a lovely place called Namas-Te (a tea house!). As the server put my pintoxs in front of me, in walked Bill and Rip. We ate pretty quickly (wasn’t getting caught out again). They were headed on the alternate route to Luquin and I to Villamayor de Monjardin. The ladies in Namas-Te could see I was upset. More tears with them.

      The blues hit me bad again on my way out of Estella. I cried and walked and cried some more. I stopped at the Irache wine fountain at the Monestario Irache. (the vineyards add 100L of wine to the fountain everyday, for pilgrims to enjoy). Carried on walking and cried some more. I was actually hating what I am doing, at that point. Rested a bit more and of course took ages to get moving again, due to the foot pain.

      Made it past Irache and on to Azqueta. Lots of downhill this section which means only one thing…the uphills are coming. Rested here, cried a bit more. Got going again for the last 2km - majority of it uphill. Not steep this time - just continuous. I cried when seeing the church spire of Villamayor de Monjardin - well made the motions - I had no tears left!

      Got to the Albergue at about 1:15pm. I have not made any reservations and they don’t open until 3pm on Sundays. So myself and other pilgrims sat and waited. I was desperately hoping for a bed (they only have 21!) as I knew the next town was “Completo” (fully booked already). I got lucky! Bed in a shared room of 5. Luck is subjective though…hit the shower to find I may have picked up some hitch hikers after all. Red spots all over my chest, torso and arms. Right where my long black shirt had been sitting. And the black shirt was stuffed into my backpack beside the lightweight backpack that Marie gave me back the day before :-(. Hand washed my clothes, dried in the sun and sealed in my drysack to avoid any cross contamination with my other clothes… I hope. My next stop needs to have a proper laundry and dryer so I can heat dry everything and hopefully prevent and more issues. Other than that little downer, it was a great dinner with all the other pilgrims and volunteers from the Albergue, and a quiet evening.

      No more tears. Well, today anyway! I am able bodied and need to be grateful for that. Grateful for my ability to carry a pack and slog it out. Grateful that I am here. Part of my Camino is to learn to be kinder to myself and have a bit more grace - for myself and those around me. Big lessons learned today, but I am sure it won’t be the last one!

      We will see what tomorrow brings. More kms I think, but I hear it is flatter. Woohoo!      Læs mere

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    Navarra, Autonome Region Navarra, Navarre, Navaro, Naparroa, ナバーラ, 나바라 지방, Наварра

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