Leon we Rest
October 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °CDay 25. First rest day. 2 nights in the same place. Luxury. The room is ginormous, there’s a lovely view of a park like space. Very nice indeed. Leon is all about the Cathedral for me. Love theRead more
Day 25. First rest day. 2 nights in the same place. Luxury. The room is ginormous, there’s a lovely view of a park like space. Very nice indeed. Leon is all about the Cathedral for me. Love the windy streets in the old town and the views of the Cathedral as you walk. The old town is surrounded also by high walls which is interesting. Ventured out to visit a physio for a much needed massage again this year. Javier was happy to see us again. Maximising the rest day this afternoon before mass at the Cathedral this evening. Tomorrow we push on to a private room in an albergue and a communal dinner in house.Read more
Natürlich muss ich hier halten und mir die Löwenstadt anschauen. Ein bisschen wie die kleine Schwester von Salmanaca.
Eine Kathedrale, ein italienischer Platz, schöne Athmospäre und weniger Touristen.
Heute bin ich in einem wunderbaren Hostel in der Altstadt. Der Herbergsvater hat beim einchecken an meinen Bewegungen gesehen, dass ich Rückenschmerzen habe.
Er hat mir gleich einen Termin beim Masseur im Haus gemacht. Dort war ich gerade, er war auch ein Osteopath. Mein unterer Rücken ist jetzt getapt. Ohne das ich fragte, sagte er morgen kein Auto fahren, only relax! Ich wollte morgen eigentlich zur Küste weiter fahren. Naja, bleibe ich noch ein Tag hier, da morgen nur ein letztes Bett frei ist, ziehe ich in das gemischte sechser Zimmer. Lustig! Der Masseur hat eben gesagt, obwohl ich fast nichts gesagt habe, dass ich spanisches Temperament habe :-).
Der Herbergsvater sagte, dass ich eine Hippieseele und ein ganz junges Herz habe :-). Schöööön!
Und ich hatte wirklich schöne Gespräche mit den Pilgern :-).Read more
A cold day today…max was 18° and single figures in the morning…but cloudless, sunny and sparkling! We got up leisurely, had breakfast and made our way to the cathedral at 9.30 when it opens….an excellent move, as by the time we had finished, groups and many people arriving, and we had a beautiful visit with only a handful of people wandering round. This cathedral is almost perfect - gothic, tall, stained glass windows covering almost every space. Simple and straightforward…we got an audio description from a QR code. Should not be compared with Burgos, such different styles - Burgos is a large complicated area, with added chapels over the centuries, and much more ornate…both wonderful in their own way, but at the moment I am in love with León! And amazingly there was no scaffolding so it looked magnificent.
After that we walked along the camino route to leave León, as far as the monasterio San Marcos…we have always walked past it at the beginning of our walking day, and never stopped to look. It is a wonderful building, the church and small museum remains, and the main building is now a parador…very fancy 5 star hotel. But the church and museum were lovely, and we sat in the square afterwards in the sun…
Walked back round the walls again and went to a bar and had coffees..my first since I first went to hospital and actually found it nice thank goodness! Just hadn’t felt like it before.
At 1.30 we went and sat in front of the cathedral as an Oz doctor walker who had kindly examined me originally in San Juan at the beginning of everything was walking into León today, and he and Amr had kept in touch and we met for lunch! He needed sustenance as he had a further 7 kms to walk, and we met in much better circumstances and chatted and found he was from Warwick, Queensland, where Pip Wolstenholme (my great niece) is and he was sure his wife would know her, as small community and the horsey people all know each other…small world…very nice guy, and then he set off again and we might meet up in Santiago (he will be with his wife by then) as our days seem to coincide after he has walked to Finisterre.
Kindle time and downtime…Amr went for a visit to the Gaudi building…we went last time and I decided to duck that one, and then we also were booked in (free, but number limit) to visit the equivalent of the León county council building (their translation)…a gorgeous old palatial building, a 45 minute tour. Well, it was beautiful, but the tour consisted of standing in the courtyard while a very animated and knowledgeable woman described it and the history but all in Spanish, Amr was fine, but I gave up about half way through…standing, and not understanding is very tiring!! I saw a couple of others slipping out too…so now quiet time before dinner.
Back from dinner..very nice but nothing to report and sleep time!!Read more
Les grandes villes sont entourées de banlieux et nous en avons longé et traversé quelques unes don villamoros qui fut la plus typique, les autres des villes comme les nôtres.
Leon ville des temps modernes en entrant et graduellement prend de l'âge forteresse Romaine et de la athédrale gothique entouré de bâtiments de style neo gothique dont en photo celle conçu par Gaudi Casa Fernandez appelé au début bla Casa Botines 1891-1893.
Une fin de parcours qui pour nous est un accomplissement puisque la Meseta comme beaucoup de Pelerins est un obstacle que beaucoup évite à cause de ses changements de température fréquent et innatendue, l'avoir confronté a été difficile mais réalisable.
Ce soir nous allons reconnaître la fin de ce périple qui etait à l'origine incertain par une soirée de tapas et une sélection de bons vins.
Hotel Paris Spa est une sélection d'hôtel de choix que nous avons réussi à dénicher pour être prêt de tout les attractions.
Avant allons lavé ;)Read more
This is the day that Cathy and I reconnect. After a 7:30 am breakfast, I set out with Francesco, who I had arranged to meet at 8:00 am and his friend, Luis Miguel. Francesco, the agronomist from Chile who I met on and off for the past week, linked up with Luis Miguel, from Palentia, a province in Spain. Francesco, who speaks very good English, translated Spanish to English for me, while Luis Miguel only spoke Spanish. We set off from Mansilla de Las Mulas together headed for Leon. I had expected Leon to be a city of 1.2 million people, but Luis Miguel clarified that it was actually a city of 120 000 people, smaller than Burgos.
I’ve felt that while here in Spain a responsibility to act as an ambassador for Yellowknife. Even in Canada, when I mention that I’m from Yellowknife, many people immediately have visions of cold weather, but many are attracted to its openness and adventure. My sense was that Francesco and Luis Miguel were intrigued with Yellowknife, eager to know more about it, and when we met a couple of fellow Canadians from Kelowna and Prince George, raving about Yellowknife, they were intrigued even further. Francesco had even done some research on Yellowknife. However, all the pride I felt about Yellowknife was abruptly squashed when we met Eduardo. a Spanish engineer who had worked on the Deb Cho bridge in Fort Providence, 14 years ago. His memories of working in the North were not endearing. He was there in the hips of winter: -35 degrees with strong winds, they were working “on the ugliest bridge I’ve ever worked on,” the wind chills were unbearable. Everything I had done to praise and promote Yellowknife in the past 7 days, evaporated in 3 minutes. Then, when I mentioned it was nice during summer months, he rebutted with horrifying stories about mosquitoes, followed by encounters with largest, fiercest horseflies known to man. Whe Eduardo was finished talking about his northern Canada experience both Francesco and Luis Miguel admitted that their desire to visit Yellowknife had waned and would likely be limited to Google.
Today’s 22 km walk brought us into Leon mostly following a path that ran parallel to a busy highway. Cathy arrived at the bus station at 6:45 on and it feels great to be back together. Tonight, Francesco, Luis Miguel, Cathy and I went out for dinner together. Francesco and Luis Miguel continue on. As we came out of the restaurant at 10:15 the city was coming to life, streets filled with people during the middle of the week. Tomorrow, we will spend the day in Leon exploring the many treasures this city has to offer.Read more
We are staying in central Leon, close to the Gothic cathedral on the Camino trail. Construction of Leon Cathedral, begun in the 13th century reflecting one of the greatest works of the Gothic style. From an engineering standpoint, this cathedral was the first to use thinner walls , allowing for a wider span, replacing those walls with more impressive stained glass. This church has nearly 1800 square meters of stained-glass windows dating back to the 13th century. Leon Cathedral, along with the Burgos Cathedral and the one in Santiago de Compostela are the three most significant cathedrals on the Camino.
The Basilica de San Isidoro is a church located on the site of an ancient temple. Its Christian roots can be traced back to the early 10th century when a monastery of St John the Baptist was erected on the grounds. In 1603 the basilica was rededicated to St Isadore of Seville. As Doug has mentioned this is representative of the best in Roman structures. Unfortunately, indoor photos were disallowed but we did see royal crypts and striking medieval wall paintings (frescoes).
We spent much of the afternoon at a cafe people watching, nothing the many pilgrims who set off today. Last night, we ate some traditional Spanish food: tortilla espanola (onions, potatoes, egg cooked in olive oil), tapas, morcilla (blood sausage in spices), paella, and calamari. We ate too much last night, so we stuck to plainer rice and vegetables today; however, we did allow for an ice cream and pastry treat.
Cathy has adapted amazingly well to the 8-hr time difference - or perhaps she’s just happy to see me - between here and Yellowknife. We’re hitting the sack early, hoping to start shortly after 8:00 am breakfast. Cathy’s first day on the Camino- stay tuned tomorrow to find out how she does!Read more
Well, the planning has started. I started to put together a tentative plan of where I will stay and reserve a few beds and it is really hard to believe that I have just over 300kms and only 2 weeks left. If I go according to my schedule (and it could easily change), then I would arrive in Santiago on October 12th. That would be perfect timing for me. I would spend a few days there, go to Finistere for a day and then make my way to Germany in time for Bärbel’s birthday.
So it was wonderful last night. I arrived in Leon and the albergue around 5:15pm. I showered, changed and was ready to go out the door. I met Christina and Kangmi at the Cathedral. We toured inside the cathedral and then went for sangrias. Dinner in Spain doesn’t start until 8-8:30pm, so it was a long wait for food. It was worth it. We ordered a few dishes to share including a salad, cured meat platter and croquettes (my new favourite food!). These croquettes were filled with blue cheese.
We finished dinner around 10:30 and we all headed in different directions for our beds. It was definitely worth missing the 18km and spending the 2 Euros for the bus to see them. Christina is off again this morning. Will still be a day ahead, but if I don’t catch up, I am sure I will see her in Santiago. I am making plans to try and see her in Denmark before I head home.
Today I didn’t get out of bed until 10:00am, and even then, I sat around in my sleep clothes until 11 and finally said it was time to go outside. I did a little shopping but didn’t really find what I was looking for but it wasn’t anything urgent.
I spoke with Maximilian today to have him help me with my cell phone. I have voicemail but wasn’t sure how to get into it as the instructions were in German. He helped me sort it out.
Now I am just heading out again (stores open again at 5:30) to try and find some yoga pants or leggings so I have in case of cold evenings.
TTYL
Throwback to 2009 Julie’s Journal
Ok, the last words I heard before sleep was Joerg looking into my eyes, smiling and saying “beautiful” Can there be anything better??Read more
In between our volunteer time in Santiago, and starting our own Camino, we had the tremendous joy of spending a day in Leon with our Camino Friends, Larry and Carolyn Hatch, and also got to meet their sister-in-law, Juliana, who lives in Newport, Oregon! We had a delightful visit with them. Unfortunately, I have come down once again with a case of bronchitis, and I had to spend the first evening in Leon waiting to see a doctor in urgent care. I was so happy to get seen there and to get medicine so that I can stop coughing! They examined me and took x-rays (lungs are good!) and gave me a breathing treatment and prescribed the exact medicines I needed and all for $240! Sometimes I’m tempted to just stay in Spain!Read more
Traveler Yes, Bart would love that park, it was a huge park and had several different play areas and so many children! And nine in the evening is not at all late for Spanish children, they’re often up after 10 PM enjoying the nightlife with their parents. It’s a whole different lifestyle here.
So, we made it to Leon today! It feels like just in time, limping to our air BnB, where we will spend today AND tomorrow before heading back into the fray on Thursday. I think I took exactly one photo as I walked today, of a distance marker showing our great progress. Only 329.5 kilometers left, it proclaims, and that was before we walked another maybe 25 Km today. We started with 800 ahead of us, so!
The walk into Leon, like maybe any city, was not especially scenic, so not much to share, visually.
We were happy to meet up with a fellow from Germany we hadn’t seen for days; this is such a fun part of this experience, connections that braid in and out as we all make different choices about how far to walk on any given day, while all still adhering to the same route. We greet one another as old friends!
The air BnB I found has exceeded our expectations, as in addition to the giant tub with jets it ALSO has a small sauna. This apartment may save my life…
Anyway, I know it’s absurd to be saying this but wow, this is an undertaking, and that’s not just the chest cold talking. I wish I had a clearer sense of what it all means at this point, but having jumped into this deep, fast-moving river, all I can really do is keep letting it carry me along. Starting again on Thursday.Read more
Day 1 was a success. Did good with the metro and train. Got into Leon and ate lunch. We were both exhausted. So got an alburgue for the night. Tomorrow, we take a bus for 30 min to Hospital del Obrigo where we will start our walk.
Shared a meal with 2 ladies. The place we are staying is so nice.Read more
Traveler Restaurants and bars close very late in Spain. We are staying overtop of a bar/restaurant. It is 12:45 am and they are still going strong. Bars here are more like restaurants at home. These people are eating and just hanging out. They are laughing and having a good time. I, however, am tired.
Traveler Sounds like a good plan! Where are you staying in Leon? Is that a Chicago Poster I see!?! Yay!Did you go into the cathedral? The palace? There is good grocery on the Main Street before you go down the hill to the palace, and the pharmacy looks like an old apothecary.
You might also know this place by the following names:
Plaza San Marcelo
Traveler Very quaint place
Traveler Love that; but like Burgos
Traveler ❤️