Spain
Poio

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    • Day 22

      Combarro to Armenteira

      October 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      We stopped for brunch before the hill. Tortilla Español. This time I shared with Sharon and we still had leftovers for later. Combarro is also known for fishing and horreos.

      Then we started to climb. And climb. We went from sea level to over 450m elevation. Basically uphill for about 9 km. We had some lovely views, but it was challenging.

      We arrived at Armenteira, checked out the Monastery, then checked into the Municipal Albergue. Not fancy today.

      Tomorrow will be almost all downhill.
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    • Day 11

      Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

      July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Overcast when leaving, but nice to be cool. The first part of the walk was especially beautiful through shaded paths alongside tumbling streams over mossy stones, passing ancient, disused sawmills. Streams eventually joined a wider, slower river and then the rain set in. Just mizzle at first and then more persistent. Was nice not to be in the baking sun, but was still very warm.
      Much of the walk was through vineyards, sometimes interspersed with allotments. These still bordered the river.
      Amazing little chapel at Mouzos, built by one of the inhabitants to welcome pilgrims. He was at the chapel..
      Passed through several small villages and some woodland before eventually hitting the coast again. Double checked as passed a first bridge, but it was to the Illa das Arousa. Next one crossed the harbour at Vilanova de Arousa, stopping point for the day.

      Kind Hungarian girl swapped so I could have bottom Bunk. Nice hostel.

      Time for a wander in the afternoon, so ended up visiting a museum dedicated to Ramón de Valle-Inclan, a prolific Spanish writer. This is in his grandmother's house and has a walled garden that was the basis of many of his stories.

      No luck for the boat tomorrow so booked for 7:00 Sunday morning. A day's rest, just wandering, will be good.
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    • Day 16

      Passing through Poio

      July 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Today will probably be our shortest walk of the Camino. I slept in until after 7am! Luxury! 😄 Today we crossed over onto the Spiritual Variant and, for the very first time, we missed the turn!! Luckily, we recognized the error not too far down the trail! The error was due to multiple distractions at the turn off and the marker for the Spiritual Way being much more discreet! I expected much more fanfare! Stopping for lunch here in Poio… not even 2 miles from our destination of Combarro. We ordered burgers and got ham and tuna sandwiches! 🤣🤷🏻‍♀️
      Whatcha gonna do? 😆
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    • Day 12–13

      Day 12 - Armenteira

      April 20 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

      The incline lived up to its reputation today from Combarro to Armenteira. And it was sunny and hot. But we made it in three hours! Tonight we have a nice room and had lovely wine and tapas. Our journey tomorrow will be a 14 mile walk to Vila de Arousa. Might take us most of the day to get there.Read more

    • Day 15

      No end to unexpected events

      June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      So, adventures have ensued since I last updated. Expect the unexpected, it's really the motto of the journey, but things happen that would be impossible to anticipate in normal life.

      Today alone we've climbed a mountain, been in an impromptu patio party, and I've been given the pilgrims blessing personally by a Trappist monk. Really you can't make this stuff up, no one would believe you. Unless they had been on Camino I suppose.

      Yesterday we spent the morning touring the 9th century old town of Pontevedra. First stop the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, the scallop shaped chapel where we attended the service last night. A happy surprise, there we run into Miriam. She is spending a day alone after leaving Redondela walking with Beatrice and Lidia ( we finally discover the Irish girls name). And she relates, where they stopped for lunch yesterday they sat with a Korean man who pulled out his phone to show our picture and ask if anyone had seen us! Given the brotherhood status Krisli has assigned to himself and Brad, we note he is taking his fraternal duties seriously! Honestly it's heartwarming how these connections can happen. We have so much support and concern from home too, it's just incredible.

      Brad's leg is improving, at least enough for him to continue walking. It's probably not ideal and I'm sure at home he would just be resting it. But he's still unwilling to give up, especially this close.

      The rest of the day was a bit tougher walk to nearby Combarro than we expected. It was hot, lots of hills, and we arrived later than expected. To discover our accommodation was almost impossible to find, we had to phone the host, who didn't speak English, for help. Finally he sent a video for directions. The number by the door had zero relationship to the listed address, and I had about zero patience left!

      But, divested of packs, showered and fresh, we decide to go try and locate Furancho a de Pepe. And arrive just at opening time, where we are served fresh cold, not quite sparkling Albarino wine in the traditional ceramic cuncas. And proceed to enjoy a veritable feast, including a dish we ordered accidentally. Something lost in translation 😊. The place is filling up, we are surrounded by happy animated chatter. All enjoying food and wines made right here, in this modest premises, by the family. Pepe hosts and pours generously, his wife bustling in the kitchen. It's a great end to the day.

      This morning, up and at it, there's a mountain to ascend! At least this time I was counting on a steep climb of 9 to 10 km. After 5 or so though it levelled off for a while. We hopscotch the way with a family of 4 from Singapore, elderly parents and middle age "kids" like us. Walk for a way with an Aussie who's a bit faster than us and goes on ahead.

      We arrive at Armenteira so much earlier than I expected, by 11:30. For once we're early and there's nothing to see, it seems! So we find the only open cafe in town, where our Aussie is already ensconced, drinking a beer. He's waiting for his walking group to arrive, but first come the Singapore family - Singapore in the house, our Aussie calls out to greet them, and there's a bit of a group cheer. Not too much later his group arrives. Two Italian girls and one Hungarian, Irina, Katrina, and Ester. We've seen them over the last couple days too. So it's a big enough group of walkers enjoying the patio sunshine. Spontaneous, enjoyable.

      As most are moving on, we go to the nearby Mosteiro de Armenteira. This Cistercian monastery has been here since around 1162. It's modest, simple, so peaceful. After a look around, we see the monk who gives us the stamp for our credentials. He speaks English perfectly, he's also the chaplain to the nuns here. They make a lot of products in the monastery for sale, soaps, creams, medals, liqueurs. Brad can't resist buying a small bottle of eucalyptus liqueur. We're going to have to leave most of it behind, but oh well.

      And so, a couple of easy km later, we are in much more luxurious accommodations, and it's still early enough to do laundry!

      To round out a big day, we head back to the village for a late dinner, where we run into Beatrice, share dinner and an orujo, traditional Galician liquor, and are back at the hotel in time for a cappuccino sunset.

      And that eucalyptus liqueur? Smelled like a combination of mouthwash and cough syrup😅. The taste? Divine, who knew!
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    • Day 4

      Hospederia de Monasterio de Armenteira

      October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      I was very lucky to get a room at the monastery. Once I decided to do the variante, this was the first place I tried to reserve. How often do you get a chance to stay overnight at a 12th-century building?! The rooms are modest but very clean and have everything you need. The wifi is pretty good, and there is a cooling fan inside. The parador in pontevedra pales in comparison to what the nuns provide here. 😃 It is also fully booked, so even in the slow season, it's best to reserve.

      They have one sister who speaks English and she is the sweetest! We have been communicating through email, so when I told her my name, she lit up! She was very happy to show me around and encouraged me to attend the pilgrim's blessing (seen in photo) and the morning mass tomorrow before I leave. I will take her offer and not leave so early tomorrow. 😁
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    • Day 16

      Combarro!

      July 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Our Alburgue, Nuestra Señora del Camino is 23 euros a bed and is so nice! Clean, well thought out, comfortable, everything we need! We have had such good places this whole trip! The town of Combarro is a very quaint village with a marina. The old-town portion is reminiscent of Cinque Terra with its many stairs, flowered porches and restaurants right on the water. Portugal and Spain’s food portions are SO big! I can hardly ever finish!! I ordered a Spanish omelette for dinner and it was like deep dish and the size of my plate! Andrea had the sardines! 😳🫢 You may have noticed small rectangular buildings on tall pedestals, often with crosses on top… those structures were for the storage of grain and other food items to be kept dry and away from rodents!Read more

    • Day 5

      The knife in the room

      September 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      I'd arrived back after Mass with my warm bottle of water and a warm tin of coke and was feeling a little jaded. I decided to pack, ready for the off in the morning. It was almost 22:00 by now. I noticed something on the floor by the side of the table.

      A knife.

      I was a little surprised. By now I'd picked it up, taken the sheath off it. Tried the blade for sharpness. In fact I'd spread my finger prints all over it.

      What to do with it? I toyed with going down to reception with it and explaining I'd found it in my room. Was my Spanish up to that? Probably not. The lady on reception had been fairly unwelcoming from the begining. I couldn't see her demeanour lightening if I appeared with a knife. Best not then.

      I could leave it in the room and say nothing? Maybe wipe my prints off it. But then again they knew who I was as they'd taken my passport number. Maybe a call to the police would be routine procedure for cleaning staff when they found a knife in a room.
      Maybe it was the missing murder weapon the police had been searching for? That wouldn't look too good. I like Spain, but not enough to spend 10years in jail.

      Besides, I'd already been acquainted with the police earlier in the day when I'd flagged a patrol car down to get some assistance for an aged hombre who'd collapsed outside the church. I left once the ambulance had arrived and thought no more about it. What if things hadn't turned out too well for him. Here I am surfacing again with a knife.

      I was starting to panic now.

      I could throw it away in the morning.

      That sounded the best option. A quiet bin in the countryside. No questions asked. As long as no one saw me.

      But there are CCTV cameras are everywhere these days. It could be risky. It'd certainly look suspicious. Why had I disposed of it in a remote location? I'd struggle to find a sensible answer to that question.

      Maybe it was the heat of the room but I then thought of another scenario. Perhaps there'd been multiple murders and all the police had was the murder weapon. Frustrated at not being able to close the case they'd hit upon the idea of planting the murder weapon in the room and were going to lift the next person who checked in and frame them. It seemed unlikely. But, however unlikely, if it happened I could be banged to rights. I suppose after a lengthy stretch inside my Spanish would have come on leaps and bounds. But would it Spanish phrases I could use in polite company?

      I went to the window and looked out to see if I was being watched from a darkened car. It was difficult to tell as I was 4 floors up.

      I managed to get a grip and put the knife into the top of my bag deciding to find a solution in the morning.

      After an abysmal night's sleep I'd forgotten about it. Until 6km out of Ponferada a patrol car cruised past on a country road. I gave the two hombres a friendly wave and hoped they weren't thinking of doing any spot checks that day. We saw them twice more after that. They waved back, but nothing else.

      I still have the damned thing and I still can't figure out the best plan for separating myself from it.

      I thought life would be simple once I'd retired. Obviously not
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    • Day 11–12

      Day 11 - Beginning the Spiritual

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      Today was the shortest mileage day so far, thankfully. We have split the distance to Armenteira by stopping in Combarros for the night. And so glad we did! This is a lovely old village on the sea. The walk has been spectacular recently, and today continued the scenic way. Diverging on the Spiritual route turned us westward toward the water with a manageable hill up and over. I was fueled by a magnificent strawberry cream croissant and a cafe con leche this morning. And the day got even better from there. I’m already beginning to count the days until this magical adventure ends, and the thought is overwhelming. Lots to experience in the next 4 days.Read more

    • Day 6

      Pontevedre to Combarro

      September 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

      On face value this should be an easy day. We'd decided to leave the long slog up to Armenteira until the day after. Nothing is ever easy though.

      After a fitful night's sleep in a room as hot as oven, accompanied by the world's saddest dog barking continuously, it was late before the first steps were taken. Backtracking into town, then walking along the river front we did at least cross on the bridge that was on the official Camino route. We'd missed it the last time we were here and got into all sorts of difficulties with the dual carriageway.

      Once over the bridge we again had a hombre shout us back onto the route by pointing us down a side street running parallel to the main drag. After clearing some initial traffic it proved to be a lovely stroll along quiet roads with varied houses appearing every so often. There were a lot of new looking crucerios in some of them. Obviously recently made.

      Eventually the splitting point of the two caminos was reached. Just as 8 years earlier. A couple of slim middle aged German ladies arrived at the same time. There was a fairly useless notice board describing the Espiritual way. But the towns were in descending order? Very confusing. But the variante was marked with yellow arrows and labelled, albeit on the side of a large garbage bin.

      The Germans were perplexed. I asked where they were going. Caldas de Reis. Then take the route to the right, says I. The left way goes to Combarro etc etc. They weren't happy. They looked for a second opinion. A giant of a youth with a whispy beard, a hacking cough and a cigarette hove into view. They asked him. His answer was incoherent and he sat down on the grass. I had another stab at explaining the situation. They still weren't sure. Drawing myself to my full height and in my best English I gave them my word, as an English gentleman, that they needed the route to the right. We left them to it.

      We then had two hours of glorious walking. It varied from side roads to fields to senda. Sometimes up a little, but never too taxing. The signage was glorious. At a junction, if there was ever the possibility of confusion, one sign was always followed up by another within seeing distance of the first.

      We paused by a church. Naturally it was closed. A patrol car drifted past. The first of three times. No idea why there was such a marked presence.

      We pulled in at a hotel and sat outside on a patio for a cafe con lech, coke and orange juice. A fountain sparkled nearby. Sadly the silence was shattered by grass strimmers.

      Our late start meant the arrival at Poio monastery coincided nicely with it closing for the afternoon. Ah well, hopefully there'll be a next time.

      By now it was scorchio. I zigzagged from one patch of shade to another. It wasn't long though before Combarro came into view. The tide was in so the sunken fishing boats were hidden in the water. This was another very quaint and busy place. A cantina provided us with food, though we decided against the pan fried sea slugs? Such was the popularity of Combatro that the place that we'd booked into was 2km further up the road. It was a weary trudge before we arrived at the hotel.

      The deep bath with foot operable taps was bliss. The air con? I had to put a jacket on to keep warm! We had a pilgrim meal which for €18 was a bargain.

      Executive Summary. A lovely days walking spoilt slightly by either 10 degrees too much heat or a 2 hour late start
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