Spanien
Pontevedra

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    • Dag 21

      Pontevedra 2

      2 oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      We walked a bit more, checked out the path for tomorrow. We get to start with a lovely bridge across the Rio Lerez (Ponte do Burgo). Then we strolled through a flea market. Luckily nothing I need.

      We made sure to have a nice meal before siesta. Thanks to Katharine W, we went to Il Piccola and had a great time.
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    • Dag 18

      Golden Girls: Pontevedra-Barro

      17 maj 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Walked along a train track today a la ‘Stand By Me’, but the crew I joined up with definitely had more a Golden Girls vibe.

      Soon after leaving Pontevedra’s lovely Old Town Shopping District (complete with Burger King in an ancient stone building), I run into Omaha sisters Ellen and Amy, childhood friend Jerry, of Phoenix, and “California Kelly”. Within minutes of starting up a conversation, someone drops an F bomb about all the walking. It’s followed by a crack about wine and ibuprofen.

      ‘No way I’m letting these ladies get away from me,’ I think. ‘These are my people.’

      What follows is a raucous day of story sharing and shit talking. The three friends are of my generation. Kelly is a youngish mom they adopted about 20 minutes before I came along. My foot was already feeling better (thanks in part to last nights Vicodin, because something had to give), but there’s nothing like a gaggle of kvetching midwesterners to make you forget your troubles and pick up the pace.

      We share life stories. We share our favorite freaky “Twilight Zone” episodes. We share lunch. The sisters, who are Catholic, can rattle off the specifics of the Fatima story as quick as they come up with a one-liner. How’s that for a combination?

      Within a couple of hours, they are giving me shit about my navigation skills. “Well, Tammy said we were three miles away five miles ago,” becomes a repeating jab from Jerry. I feel loved.

      Ten miles goes by like buttah, but I have to peel off at Barras while they trudge on to Caldas de Reis. I give hugs all around and collect What’s App numbers so we can stay in touch. Some folks you lose along the way. Some you keep.

      The next morning, the Omaha Three and Cali Kelly crew are checking on me after a harrowing stay in a private home, but that’s another story.

      Chances are slim I’ll see this crew again. They have limited time so are walking more miles per day. But I’ll hear from them when they reach the finish line and will cheer virtually for their accomplishment. Because they are part of my Camino family - the ones I’d want to sit with at the big family gathering, cause they’re the fun crew.

      What a happy, happy day it’s been.
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    • Dag 19

      Day 11 - Redondela to Pontevedra

      22 april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      Today started out hard. Tough hills to climb and as we expected, lots of pilgrims. You can always tell all the newbies to the trail as they look cleaner and smell fresher and they are more chatty. It seemed the 3 of us walked today in unusual silence. Maybe it was because after 11 days of walking together (plus days spent beforehand in Porto) we had run low on conversation topics. But I think we were subconsciously sad because we knew this was our last full day as a walking trio.

      Tomorrow Tom and I veer off on the Espiritual Variant of this route and Miquel will head straight to Santiago. Our route will take us a day or two extra to complete and we may or may not see Miguel before he flys out of Santiago for Barcelona.

      Today’s walk started hard but the whole day was beautiful. By early afternoon the pilgrims were all spread out and we spent the rest of our day on the most amazing trail that seemed to go on forever along a creek, in the shade, in 75 degree weather. Tonight we are in Pontevedra after a 13.8 mile day. This small city looks fun and our last night with Miguel will be celebrated. ❤️
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    • Dag 3

      Day 2: Redondela to Pontevedra

      5 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain.

      Second day walking and we cracked out more than 20km today, passing the beautiful medieval town of ‘Arcade’ (no 80’s driving machines or pinball tables; sorry!) and on to Pontevedra.

      It’s a strange observation that the caminho way seems to bring you utterly horrible ways into towns with the industrial and medium density housing on the edge of the town being underwhelming. However, the centre of town is historic, beautiful and for my post arrival wander around town also … sunny! (We shan’t mention it too loudly, but it would be nice if it stayed!!).

      Michaela has booked us into a hostel tonight, and it’s a dorm with 22 people in it tonight for us! It’s kinda lovely sharing camaraderie with follow walkers, and we’ve met some really cool people.. but the queue for the machines is kinda annoying!

      So far I’m very impressed though, it’s clean, relatively quiet and very modern!

      A longer day tomorrow onwards to Caldas de Reis, which is a spa town, and we have various activities booked to keep spirits high!

      Ciao!
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    • Dag 12

      Almost Great Weather!!!

      19 maj, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      After a good night's sleep for some of us (I think two bears' bed was too hard🙄😂), we feasted on yoghurt and granola, and a little cake from our host, Gustav, before setting off on the 20km to Pontevedra. The weather was really kind for much of the way, and we were happy walking in just our tops (and other clothing!) - no fleeces or waterproofs for ages!
      We stopped at a café in Redondela for coffee and sellos (stamps for our Pilgrim Passports) and Luke was made up to be given FREE cake and croissant 🤗😋.
      We were soon walking through small hamlets and forests of eucalyptus, which were delightful. But this section of the camino was absolutely jam packed with pilgrims. Okay, it's Pentecost, and it's Sunday, but this was ridiculous. It was just like the last 100km of the Frances - filled with very noisy Spaniards (sorry🙄😉) who were out for a walk and not respecting the peace of the camino! One woman in particular just didn't stop taking/shouting, and it made a good section of the walk disappointing.
      We stopped after about 9km in Arcade for a drink and, thankfully, the 'tour' seemed to vanish 👏👏👏. We could hear a brass band playing in the distance and wondered why... and as it got closer we realised that, as it was Pentecost, the statue of the Virgin Mary was being displayed and walked through the town. It was too far away to see properly, but the town seemed to be celebrating noisily. (We'd also heard lots of gun fire and reckon it marked the start and/or end of the procession!)
      We left the café after a chat with some pilgrims from Dunstable and stopped at a panaderia to buy our lunch - sandwiches and extremely large chocolate croissants para llevar - and continued just 1.5km to Pontesampio where we crowded the Medieval bridge. This then led us up through some beautiful villages and past buildings built from stone, whose walls were probably metres thick. The roads through the first hamlet were narrow and the houses were really interesting. In fact, the 'Way' was great. There was quite a lot of uphill walking (Luke and Ray, who are young and very fit, walked on ahead with no problems whilst Julie and I kept each other company at a more sedate pace😂). We passed quite a few pop-up stalls selling everything from food and drink to painted shells and stones, umbrellas, lanyards and every kind of pilgrim paraphernalia you can imagine!
      Lunchtime was a very welcome break. The boys had found a couple of granite rocks to sit on, so we enjoyed our sandwiches there, not knowing that the area behind us had been used by countless pilgrims as a toilet stop 🙄😱😂. Sid also enjoyed a few bites of my chorizo butty!
      Then it was onwards and ever upwards until we reached a cross that marked the highest point of the day's walk - the cross, however, wasn't anywhere to be found! But, thankfully, from that point on it was downhill all the way towards Pontevedra, our stop for the night. We stopped at a beautiful little chapel to sit quietly and appreciate all we'd seen, done and heard, then chose to take the green route into town. It wasn't so much green as brown and muddy! But it was away from the road and, as long as you were careful where you placed your feet, you could appreciate the trees and the river. This eventually led us to Pontevedra where the boys were waiting for us. We found a bar for the obligatory celebration beer and the barmaid also gave us THE BEST plate of chips with loads of salt, tomato sauce, mayonnaise and mustard. They were gorgeous 😋😋😋.
      Our accommodation is a fab little flat. We've washed our dirty clothes (see Ray's genius drying socks hack), been to a Pilgrim's Mass (didn't understand a word but it was very nice!) and eaten at an Italian restaurant. Ice cream or Pastel de Nata followed and now here we all are, tucked up in our beds and ready for the Spiritual Variant tomorrow. It's going to be very interesting... (big hills😱). I'll let you know!
      Oh, and Luke said it wasn't him (see previous post on dish washers😂)
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    • Dag 30

      Day 27/16 Redondela to Pontevedra

      30 maj 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      Overcast skies, a threat of rain and a temperature of 15 C awaited us as we set out on today's walk.

      It was another relatively short walk, (I now consider walks under 20 kms to be short) but it had two very long, and often steep, ascents and descents. For the most part we were in forested areas, which were unspectacular, although there were a few extraordinary vistas from atop the hills.

      The other day we were serenaded by a bagpipe duo and today, on a couple of occasions, we were treated to a chorus of bullfrogs singing very loudly.

      Our first coffee stop was about 7.5 kms up the road and the second was as at around 15 kms which left only 4 kms over flat ground to bring us to our hotel.

      With a little less than an hour to go, the rain finally started to fall, but only enough for us to pop open our umbrellas. A few days ago torrential rains were forecast for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, but that has been constantly changing. With a little luck and the Caminho on our side, we may dodge the bullet tomorrow. Time will tell.

      The highlight of the day was dinner at Bodegon Arca, a little Mom and Pop shop run by a larger than life Spaniard and his wife. So enjoyable was his banter we had to take a photo with him.

      Our calculations tell us we now have only 66 kms to cover over the next three days to reach Santiago. It's almost inconceivable to think that this journey is rapidly coming to an end.

      What can we do for an encore?
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    • Dag 15

      Pontevedra!

      3 juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

      After 12 miles of walking we arrived in Pontevedra at Nacama Hostel. A nice number of miles, especially considering the hills. Our feet are definitely complaining these days by the time we arrive! So what do we do? Walk around town for another 4 miles! 🫣🤣 We ate lunch so late that dinner is going to be snacks we got from the grocery store!Läs mer

    • Dag 15

      Day 10 on the Camino

      8 oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Started our Thanksgiving Sunday with a fabulous included breakfast at a bakery around the corner from our guest house. The town and bakery was packed with Camino walkers and cyclists as it seems it was the only place open that early in the am. We spent the day walking up and down some steep hills and then through forested and farm areas. Finally saw many vineyards today. And some horses. Sorry no cats today Elizabeth. In the forest we saw several murals painted on old buildings, an underpass and a shed. We also came across a cool area where someone had placed some metal pilgrim statues in front of a covered area with a half dozen straw beds for pilgrims to use. Found a small chapel in a tiny town where we were able to get another stamp. Finally in to Pontevedra and a walk around the historic centre - see the beautiful church - and we finished the night with a fabulous dinner at Kamelia Taberna. If you are ever in Pontevedra I recommend their ensalada with goat cheese. Amazing. Sadly I neglected to take a photo.Läs mer

    • Dag 17

      Day 5 Cycling Coastal Camino

      22 maj, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Today we are cycling 34+ km from Vigo to Ponteverde. We had breakfast in the hotel and were able to catch up again with our UK friends, Mary and Keith. They are a lovely couple and we chat about our rides as they are on the same route. Following breakfast, Joanne and I each bought some Galician jewelery ( sterling silver necklace with the celtic tiles in the center).

      DESCRIPTION
      Cycle along Vigo's city streets as you head northeast, leaving the urban area behind. Follow the line of the Ria de Vigo estuary for views of floating mussel farms, the Cies islands and the city and port of Vigo as you ride between villages and through a forest
      A descent then takes you to the town of Redondela, where your Portuguese Coastal Camino merges with the Portuguese Central Camino. There are plenty of coffee shops and restaurants here, as well as interesting
      medieval buildings. You'll cycle over a hill to pass through the riverside town of Arcade, where you can pause for juicy fat
      oysters. Continuing on, you'll soon reach the atmospheric square of Pontevedra after enjoying a downhill section. Here you can
      admire the medieval architecture as you sip a cold beer or wine with some tapas. This bustling city has a wonderful atmosphere and great Galician cuisine.

      We decided to try using our gps to get out of this big city because Macs navigation hasn't been the best for these bigger centers.... Well, this turned out to be an adventure. Our gps took us to the bus station and here we had to go down stairs, through 5 barriers and a fence, all of which were moveable as luck would have it. We had bike paths for awhile and were overlooking the Rio de Vigo estuary with the vast amount of floating mussel farms. We were going under the overpasses, and then an incredibly long, difficult climb up to the actual Camino trail in a rain shower. It was a slog to say the least. Once at the trail we saw a lot more pilgrims for awhile again as we rode through a beautiful forest path. From here, we rode a steep descent into the Redondela location where the Coastal and Central Camino trails meld. We found a coffee shop and sat for about an hour and 2 coffees later because a rain shower hit. We had a nice conversation with a father and son from the Dominican Republic. The father had been doing sections of the Camino for many years and had completed approx. 800 miles. The son has been doing sections for 3 years. We carried on after the rain shower and came over a beautiful old bridge on the Rio Verdugo ( seeing lots of what we were calling crypt-like structures from Vigo to today and Anthony asked about them and they are used to store grains from the field, etc)then began another long ascent up and over to the town of Arcade. This was an incredibly hard ride. Many parts we had to walk because the grades were so steep. Our gears couldn't go low enough!! We had a perfectly timed videocall with Jacob to take a rest mid-way this climb🥰👌We had more very steep descents today with technical sections. It kept us on our toes for sure. We used our gps as we got closer to Pontevedra and found our Hotel.
      We had a long line of Pilgrims checking in and as Joanne and I waited, Anthony and Andrew bought some beers at the supermercado and sat outside in the sunshine enjoying them. We got showered and ready to go find some of the Galician artisans. Our first stop was very special with 6 local women working on looms to make scarves, socks, blankets, dresses, etc. Joanne bought socks and I bought a small bag. The teacher made both products we purchased. They were all very talented. We were asking them about other shops to buy other types of products like pottery or jewelery, etc. The one lady kindly walked us at least 15 minutes to another shop and on the way she took us through the Medieval section of Ponteverde where at least 4 Michelin star restaurants are located. We walked past a medieval cathedral to a town center with the Sanctuary de Ponteverde is located and many pilgrims visit because it is shaped like a shell. She brought us to a beautiful shop. We took a picture with her and then looked around. We had a really fun tapas dinner together again, but this one we tried local Galician cuisine ( octopus, Padron green roasted peppers, grilled sardines, & mixed salad with olives and tuna). After dinner we enjoyed some delicious Gelato. I tried a chocolate neuro that was so incredible. It is made with Belgian chocolate and black cocoa powder, no milk or cream. We walked back to look in the Sanctuary and it was so beautiful. There were the clam shell symbols everywhere throughout the church. We walked back to the hotel to get ready for our next day.
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    • Dag 7

      Day 7 - Saxamonde to Pontevedra

      3 juli 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

      What a glorious day!

      After a wonderful evening and restful sleep we left with goals in our mind and dreams of being closer in our heart. We got away about 7:40 and were rocking a pretty good pace when we stopped for lunch at 11:00 am.

      On the way we saw many of our Camino friends and met many more. It’s great how they will pass us and we will greet each other and later on, we will pass them and greet each other.

      Today was one of the most beautiful days on the Camino as we went through many picture perfect locations and ate at a couple of scenic places. We will do so again tonight in the beautiful town center of Pontevedra, Spain.

      A very special part of the Camino Portugues is a picturesque babbling brook you can choose to walk along as opposed to the traditional route. It’s called the C. Complementario. It’s 1.3 km further, but why not. So we did. Absolutely well worth the extra kilometer. It was cool under the trees and walking next to the river for about an hour as we wound our way to Pontevedra. We even passed a special tree all roped off. See the pics. I don’t know why it was special, but we had to stop and look.

      We finally wound our way through Pontevedra into the old town past the beautiful Cathedral and other sights. We even got a pilgrim stamp in the Cathedral.

      After going into the Cathedral and saying a small prayer of thanks for such a wonderful day and that my feet held up, and praying they hold up until the Camino is complete, we continued on to our hostel for the night overlooking the old town.

      We look forward to tomorrow with great trust in God that we will complete that goal and each one thereafter until we reach Santiago. Your thoughts and prayers are very much appreciated and our prayers are being answered.

      Until tomorrow,

      BUEN CAMINO!

      15.8 miles/ 41,000 steps
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    Pontevedra, Pontevedro, PTE, ポンテベドラ, 36001, Понтеведра

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