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    • Iberische Halbinsel
      Day 66

      Nord Portugal

      June 2, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Wir fahren durch die Berglandschaft und sind Übernachtungsgäste bei Apiberico welche einen Imker Betrieb führen und sehr feine Produkte verkaufen. Wir haben unseren Honigvorrat entsprechend aufgefüllt. Unterwegs sehen wir Pinienwälder; die Bäume sind für die Harzgewinnung angeritzt. Es ist ein sehr gefragtes Naturprodukt. In Chaves verbringen wir eine kurzweilige Zeit auf einem Stadtrundgang. Wir wagen es alle über die Polder zu gehen, die durch den Fluss gelegt sind. Auf der Serra da Larouco haben wir eine tolle Aussicht mit Gewitter Stimmung.Read more

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      2
      Day 19

      A longer route to A Rua

      April 29 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      The day from O Barco had to be either 13 km or 40 km. I was not interested in the 40 option. I had learned on the forum that there was a way to visit an old abandoned estate (Pazo) on the other side of the river, which would also add a little bit of distance. I did some more searching and found that there were several trails on that side of the river that would take me up high, to some waterfalls, and then to a couple of little towns on my way back down to the river. I pieced together some Wikiloc tracks and got a good alternative – 24 km and about 600 m elevation gain.

      It was a combination of two local trails, both very well-maintained and marked. I saw several people out walking, all single women from the nearby villages, and also met a man tending his little patch of grape vines. The waterfalls were quite nice, and the walk along the ridge at the top gave such a different view than what we normally see walking down by the river. I came into town over an ancient pedestrian bridge, and saw that there was a Roman millario right next to it! I am very happy to have done this route, and I arrived in A Rua just in time to have a menú del día with Clare.

      Despite the weather forecast, it was a glorious day, but rain is back in the forecast tomorrow. It looks like the morning will be dry, so I will start out good and early!      Read more

    • Camino invierno
      1121
      Day 3

      Puerte de Domingo nach A Rúa (28 km)

      April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Heute ging es für uns nach A Rúa, ein wunderschöner Weg am Fluss entlang, mit vereinzelten kleineren Anstiegen in das umliegende Bergland. Heute zeigte sich die Gastfreundschaft der Menschen in der Nähe des Camino. Wir durften mehrfach Hilfe und Unterstützung aus heiterem Himmel erfahren. So bot uns ein Ehepaar, dass uns auf seinem Weg zum Öffnen ihres Hühnerstalls begegnete, während Friedrich mit schmerzenden Füßen eine Pause eingelegt hatte, an, die Füße bei ihnen daheim unter Wasser abzukühlen. Ein paar Häppchen mit Chorizo und Schinken sowie für jeden zwei Dosen Limonade gab es ebenso ungefragt dazu.
      Diese Einstellung der unbedingten Gastfreundschaft und Offenheit wollen wir auf auf jeden Fall versuchen, mit nach Deutschland zu nehmen. Am Abend kehrten wir in einer kleinen Herberge in A Rúa ein. Auch hier würden wir wieder sehr gut umsorgt. Der Obolus für Herberge, Abendessen und Frühstück war hier für die Reisenden als Spende frei zu wählen. Auch ein spannendes Konzept, dass erfreulicherweise offenbar gut funktioniert.
      Morgen geht es auf die nächste Etappe, mal sehen wie lang diese sein wird.      Read more

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      31
      Day 18

      To O Barco de Valdeorras

      April 28 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Nice walk, nothing spectacular, but pretty. It was our first encounter with the Sil River, which merges with the Minho eventually. It is very full these days because of all the rain.

      The camino goes through some abandoned villages, and one real town. There are lots of small family on vineyards. I talked to a couple out and their parcel and they say that they and most of the small owners in this area just grow enough grapes to make their own wine for the year. There are lots of huge industrial vineyards as well, but the Camino didn’t pass by any of them today. Since it was a day on the short side, I left late and didn’t really get into my normal walking mode. Kind of lollygagging and realizing I was feeling tired.

      Three of us had a late lunch and when I got back to the room at about five, I lay down and woke up after midnight. That was probably the longest night uninterrupted stretch of sleep I’ve had since I’ve been here! Maybe it had something to do with the allergy pills I’ve started taking (a regular occurrence when I walk in Spain in the spring), but whatever it is, it’s a strange sensation to wake up at midnight, feeling refreshed, and ready to go!      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      311
      Day 17

      Snow and 800 cyclists

      April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Today I walked from Montes de Valdueza to Las Médulas and then another 8 or 9 km to Puente de Domingo Florez. Wikiloc tells me it was 35 KM and about 900 m elevation gain.

      It had been raining all night, but Pilar had told me that the entire distance was on a “pista forestal” (Forest track). That meant no jagged rocks, no extremely steep elevation, all dirt, and no rivers to ford. As I went from one side of a mountain to another, the weather kept changing. At one high point, it was snowing. About halfway there, I ran into three guys setting up a refreshment stand. They told me I was about to encounter 800 cyclists, all of them completing a 101 km circuit from Ponferrada. There were about 200 walkers, but I was unlikely to see them given that they would be much further behind.

      When I started down from that point, it turned into a pea soup fog, with an occasional few minutes of rain. But when I got to Las Medulas, it wasn’t raining, and the view was as spectacular as ever.

      I was going to spend the night there, in a little rural hotel, where I have been several times. But when I got there, the grounds were covered with campers and tents and caravans. I decided that even if there were rooms available, it was going to be a late night party. I decided to continue on nine more kilometers. That will make tomorrow a very short day so that’s nice.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      231
      Day 20

      To Quiroga in the rain (28 km and 700 m)

      April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      It wasn’t a totally rainy day, but there were several long-ish periods, so my shoes and feet were soaked most of the day. This is a very nice stage even when it’s raining, way up high with four other paths paralleling below — the river, the train tracks, the national highway, and the local highway. And there I was on top of all of it! The Sil River is dark green, blending in with the greenery all around. With the grey sky, the color palette was fairly reduced—except for billions of bright yellow flower bushes (gorse or broom, I’ve been told they’re called).

      The Camino goes through several little villages— all have at least a few inhabitants, a few renovated homes, and the great majority falling apart. I can’t imagine that there is anything that will bring these places back to life, but maybe the Camino will do it!

      One of my two favorite Sil River horseshoe curves is on this stage, and luckily it wasn’t raining when I got to that spot! I sat and had a few handfuls of trail mix and soaked it in — then the rain started and I really soaked it in.

      I am in a nice place in Quiroga— hair dryer and heat! Now my shoes will dry for sure.

      Looks like rain for the next few days.      Read more

    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      23
      Day 21

      22 km and 700 m to Pobra de Brollón

      May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      I woke up this morning and saw that once again weather.com predicted clouds and no rain till late afternoon, while the Spanish, weather website aemet.es showed rain all day. I chose to put my faith in weather.com, even though it had let me down yesterday. Both websites showed the same cold temperature, though – 38 F/3C. Another day to put my smartwool socks on my hands. But I would much rather have those warm lambswool gloves that are sitting at home in my Camino box!

      This was a planned short-ish day, because I wanted to have a good chunk of time in Monforte De Lemos tomorrow. I have stayed there two or three times, but always arrived on the late side after a pretty hard walk. It’s a small city with some interesting things to see.

      I had forgotten how beautiful this stage is. Lots of green, lots of flowers, lots of big vistas from up high. No cultural or historical sites, but plenty of natural beauty. And the rain held off until I was about four minutes from my destination.

      There is now an albergue in town, but I learned that the pensión where I had stayed years ago had reopened (its owners closed it when they retired, but their kids have reopened it). Very nice.

      Clare and I have had a good and very filling lunch in La Taberna Vieja, and we are going to stay here till the thunder and rain stop.      Read more

    • Tour d'Europe
      Day 78

      Lago de Carucedo

      June 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Trop bonne journée passée à proximité des montagnes de Las Medulas⛰️. À cause de la météo, le trajet pour s'y rendre n'était pas des plus agréables. Des nuages☁️, du brouillard😶‍🌫️, de la bruine,... On devait effectuer plusieurs stops sur la route pour profiter de beaux points de vue, mais on a fait uniquement le premier puis nous avons zappé les autres, ça ne valait pas le coup ☔, trop de brouillard. Le temps était tellement déréglé que nous avons dû allumer le chauffage🌡️ dans la voiture... Fin juin, en Espagne, ça fait bizarre quand même!

      Une fois arrivé au Lagon de Carucedo, c'est simple, il y a 3 centres d'intérêt :
      - Le lagon : fait ☑️. avec une séance paddle en fin d'aprem (le temps que le ciel se dégage et que la température s'y prête plus).
      - La meson (l'auberge) El Lagon : fait ☑️. Entrée🥗 + plat🧆 + boissons🍻 + dessert🍰 pour 16€ par personne, et c'était bon, même si on a eu du mal à comprendre ce qu'on commandait. En effet, bien qu'on se débrouille en espagnol, pour comprendre les plats au restaurant il faut connaître le vocabulaire des ingrédients🤌🙊🇪🇸. Et quand il n'y a pas de carte écrite comme c'était le cas ici, on commande un peu au pif quand le serveur vient nous voir! 
      - La Fabrica : fait ☑️. Une taproom spécialisée dans les bières aromatisées au miel🍯🐝. Les boissons étaient très bonnes, les plats aussi (mais pour les plats on n'en pas commandé beaucoup, et on ne s'en souvient pas trop car il était 4 pintes o'clock 🍺🕓😵‍💫). Le lieu et le staff son super sympa, ils ont même une carte de fidélité qui offre un t-shirt👕 et une casquette🧢 une fois terminée. On était sur la bonne voie pour la compléter, mais l'hydromel à 14° était trop ambitieuse et nous a forcée à rentrer !       Read more

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      Day 22

      Nice day to Monforte de Lemos

      May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      It seemed almost like a rest day. The walk was very pretty, and I took a little detour to go to a hill fort that dates to the first or second century, before the Roman arrival. At places like this, I stop and think about things — my life, their life, whether we were similar in any ways. There were many body-shaped rock-lined spaces right below the surface, and I wondered if they were graves.

      We did have one fairly short and not too steep ascent, and we also came across our very first loose dog. He barked, and he did come close, but that was about it. That was the first loose dog we’ve encountered during almost three weeks of walking.

      When we got into town, I went straight to the pharmacy to see if I could get something for my incessant cough. This is very similar to something that has happened to me on two other Caminos— it starts as an allergy and then deteriorates into a bad cough, and I cannot shake it. I showed the pharmacist the name of the medicines that I had been given the last time, and she just pulled them off the shelf and gave them to me. That’s a very different attitude towards prescription medication than what I found in the south of Spain.

      We were in town early, and by noon I had checked into the parador— a splurge I booked months ago. It’s in a 17 C convent right next to the 13 C castle tower. The receptionist was very nice and found me a room that was ready, even though I was hours before check-in. I guess that walking into a parador with a grungy backpack and hiking poles gets you some special treatment, or else it gives staff the incentive to get you out of sight quickly.

      One of the best things about staying in a Parador is that the towels are so huge and thick that you can squeeze all the water out of your hand washed clothes with them.

      Clare and I had a good lunch in a popular local place, while she played around with schedules and accommodations to figure out her next moves. My bet is that I will start out from Monforte alone tomorrow.

      It’s a cold grey dreary day, but at least we didn’t get rain while walking.      Read more

    • TravelerVon Eyendorf nach Afrika
      Day 13

      Porto 1,2,3 los!

      February 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      Ich bin in Portugal, yiepieh!!!
      Portugal ist mein absolutes europäisches Lieblingsland!
      Die Portugießen übertreffen für mich die französiche und spanische Küche.
      Das einzige was sie nicht haben....die Düne,
      dafür aber soviele unterschiedliche Strände und Strandbuchten die das wieder aufwiegen.
      Und für mich als Muschelsammlerin ein Paradies!! Solche Muscheln habe ich nicht annähernd in Frankreich und Spanien gefunden.

      Na, wer möchte mit mir Porto erleben, geniessen, entdecken...?      Read more

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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Ourense, Ourense, Orense, Província d'Ourense, オレンセ（オウレンセ）

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