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    • Six Bridges Rally
      Day 8

      Die 8. Etappe wurde erfolgreich beendet

      September 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      Mit der 8. Etappe nähern wir uns weiter Porto. Vom Zielpunkt der heutigen Etappe nur noch ca. 350km entfernt. Hier gab es dann heute noch ein Paar Aufgaben zu erledigen. Nachdem wir den Geiern entkommen sind ging es zu Aquädukt in Segovia. Leider haben wir uns wohl hier nicht an angebliche Schilder gehalten und wurden von der Lokalen Polizei verfolgt und gestellt. 🙄
      Das Bild vom Denkmal hat uns nach langem verhandeln nur 40 € gekostet.
      Danach ging es nach Salamanca. Auch hier war es wieder tricky einen Parkplatz zu bekommen ohne überhöhte gebühren.
      Jetzt sind wir in unserer Unterkunft und sagen Gute Nacht und bis Morgen in Porto.      Read more

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    • 4L Trophy - SandBox Racing
      Day 5

      Un depart un peu retardé

      February 17, 2023 in Spain

      Réveil difficile après ce premier bivouac près de Salamanca. La nuit a été très froide (0°C) et le repos pas vraiment réparateur.
      Départ 8h00 mais premier arrêt avant même de reprendre l'autoroute pour régler le câble d'embrayage d'Estelle qui nous posait problème pour passer les vitesses correctement. Avec l'aide des copains on remet ça en place et on trace direction Algésiras.Read more

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    • 4L Trophy - SandBox Racing
      Day 4

      Premier bivouac

      February 16, 2023 in Spain

      Ça y est !! Enfin posé pour cette fin de 1ère journée officielle du 4L Trophy 2023. On se pose pour la nuit, un peu éloigné de la route principale. Un repas de roi (enfin presque) pour une nuit sûrement pas tellement reposante. Mais on pourra reprendre la route demain avec tout de même le plein d'énergie.Read more

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    • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
      Day 33

      Day 33 - Villenueva - 14 km

      October 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

      The weather has become an interesting focus.
      In Andalusia and Extremadura the weather was simple. It’s really hot - start early and finish by midday.
      Here the weather has become complex - sun, cloud, wind, rain, cold, warm ….. So for a while I will begin with a weather report.

      Weather today
      Strong cool gusty wind and sun. Morning temp was 10 degrees and now at midday it’s 13 with a top of 17. Rain forecast this evening for a few hours.

      The hero ingredients today were water obstacles and strong gusty wind. Luckily the water hazards were easy to negotiate and I was protected from the westerly wind by a windbreak of trees for most of the day. There were only a few times when I was directly in the wind’s path with gusts strong enough to blow me around a bit.
      Towards the end of the morning the sky was clear and the sun shining with a beautiful light. There was corn, sugar beets (I discovered they are an important crop being affected by climate change) and grapes on either side. The approach to the village that is my stop for tonight was particularly beautiful with a special light and feeling.
      Later I went for a walk and saw the ruins of a 13th Century monastery which I visited. I looked up the history of this village and saw it grew up around religious orders. Does that explain a little of the special feeling I have here?
      Finishing my walks fairly early gives me lots of time for self care and reflection. Part of me has been a little embarrassed at my slow pace and I keep explaining about feet and injuries etc. Today I remembered a couple on the Camino Frances (2007) who were taking 3 months so they could really see everything and do all the side trips. At that time I thought that sounded like a great idea. And now here I am doing a slow Via De la Plata - taking time to enjoy every day.
      I have met a number of pilgrims seemingly hurrying to Santiago - it’s hard not to judge them - to make myself right - instead of judging myself. I will practice honouring myself and my way - no more explanations.
      I love being the only one in an albergue. I can wander around and chant aloud - and make it mine for a few hours.
      I’ve just finished lunch at 3.00 pm. When I ordered a wine I was asked whether I wanted the ordinary (€1) or the good stuff (€2). I don’t think I need to say which I chose. This area prides itself on its wine so I was happy to oblige.
      I had a taste of the grapes along the way - sweet and mellow.
      Today I was reflecting on the villages in which I have stayed. When the final stopping place comes into view there is a special sensation. This is the place that will give me a roof, a bed, food, warmth, safety and comfort until the next day. I understand why they also call the pilgrim accommodation a ‘refugio’. I will meet the locals and they will take care of me . A love and gratitude arises. It’s quite extraordinary - I feel embedded for a few hours and then I move on. There is a feeling of intense gratitude every time, as without these villages, the albergues and the locals, the Camino would not possible.

      Buen Camino

      More about Villanueva de Campeán
      ‘The small red gravel track makes its way from El Cubo to the lands of Monteconcejo and Brochero, running between the vineyards and lined with small holm oaks. The small municipality of Villanueva de Campeán nestles on the side of La Esculca Hill.
      Before entering the town, pilgrims will go past the ruins of a Franciscan Convent which although originally built in the 13th century, was altered considerably in the 16th century. The town sprang up around the convent.
      This town is also the site of the 13th century Church of Santa María del Soto.’      Read more

    • TravelerAcross Europe
      11
      Day 15

      Miranda do Douro

      April 22, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      Sad to see Helen off on the train to Porto and her own adventures packing her bike away. My train back to pocinho was cancelled then delayed so didn't get on the road til 1pm. Decidedly cooler today so made reasonable time slogging out of the valley and onto the plateau that defines this corner of Portugal. Also had 15 k on a nice cinder cycle way - until I realised that the road, largely alongside had virtually no traffic . Indeed today, over the first 100k, I'd be surprised if I was passed by as many as 100 cars. This corner is pretty remote - known as the " wild east" of Portugal. I eventually arrived in the border town of Miranda d D at 7 - or was that 8- my phone keeps switching between Portugal time and Spanish time. Here they speak a different language, do stick dances and wear silly hats.Read more

    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      11
      Day 6

      Visigothic marvel and El Cid church

      October 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      Today we took a quick trip out of Zamora to visit San Pedro de la Nave. It’s a Visigothic church, moved piece by piece to escape being submerged by construction of a dam. I had been here once before —when the hospitalero in the Zamora albergue offered to drive me out (and I walked back) but this time it was car all the way. Just as beautiful as I remembered it. It’s always awe-inspiring to be in a building from the 7C.

      From there we went back to Zamora to two Romanesque churches right outside the cathedral walls. My favorite church in Zamora—Santiago de los Caballeros, where El Cid is reported to have spent the night in prayer before being knighted. It’s extremely simple and beautiful with capitals choc full of figures and pictoral lectures about sinning, which makes for some explicit capitals.

      Yesterday in the Zamora museum I had seen a capital recovered fromn the ruined Monasterio de Moreruela. I remembered the (luckily in tact) apse of the church as the most stunning I had ever seen. I walked there on my third (?) Vdlp from Granja de Moreruela, where today we stopped for a coffee right outside the albergue. On to the monastery in car. Joe enjoyed it a lot and I think he understands my addiction to walking Caminos a little better.

      On the way back to Zamora it occurred to me to stop in a town where Dana and I had stayed on my second Vdlp. We had had a great meal in Rosamari, where the owner had regaled us with stories about how hard it had been for two women to start a business in Franco years. Banks wouldn’t lend without the husband’s signature, etc. Today the restaurant is run by the third generation, and she assured me that her mom and grandma had taught her to be strong and independent. I was shocked that I was able to find a picture of one of the owners outside in 2010 and was happy to send it on to the current owner. The food is still excellent, btw! Joe had a cocido (too heavy for my taste, though I had a few bites), and I just had an ensalada mixta. I am very sad to report, though, that despite my very clear 2010 memory of the first salad since Cáceres without iceberg lettuce, even the Rosamari has succumbed!      Read more

    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      21
      Day 5

      Cafe Viriato

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

      Alan, this place deserves a shout-out. Great tapas and, as you said, excellent house wine. I told the waitress that we had been sent here by a friend who walked the Vdlp, and and she told me — “cuando vuelva, esta invitado. Y dígale que ha mandado a buena gente.” We love this place. My favorites were the morcilla with manzana and the bacalao with a mejillón plopped on top.Read more

    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      1
      Day 5

      In Zamora

      October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Joe slept in so we had a late breakfast, but we had a good three hour window to walk and tour before everything closed down for lunch. I have to say Joe’s schedule is not particularly well-suited to the Spanish rhythm, but today I was able to cajole him into a nap during the 2-5 siesta period.

      In the morning, we went first to the 10C aceñas/molinos, which were in use for 8 centuries.. These are particularly unusual,, we were told, because there are four in a row, which enabled quick changes in function and heightened efficiency. From there, we walked along the river to the Diocesan museum (inside a romanesque church), and then to a particularly beautiful Santa Maria de Huerta, and then the Zamora Museum, which is small but has some beautiful pieces going back to Celtiberian days and earlier. And CR of course we had to walk over the river on the Puente de Piedra so Joe could see the view!

      While Joe napped, I did a reconnaisance all over town to pick out which churches should be top on our list, since we are obviously not going to visit the insides of all 20-something of them. At each church I tried to focus on one particular exterior feature to help me distinguish these beauties one from the other. Lots of capitals I could recognize (Adam and Eve, Slaughter of the Innocents, Daniel) but many I couldn’t. And then at 5, I pushed Joe out of bed and we went on a short circle walk to see three standouts.

      We will have tapas again tonight. Whenever Alan or Sabine recommend a place, you can be sure it’s going to be a keeper !      Read more

    • Laurie Reynolds19th year to Lisbon!
      41
      Day 4

      Drove to Zamora

      October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      I love Zamora! I have walked into this city a bunch of times— it’s on both the VDLP/Sanabres and the Levante. When I looked at the map and saw how close it is to Braganca, I was sold. It’s fun showing Joe all my favorite spots and it is one of my two favorite small Spanish cities, with the other being Soria.

      By 2 we were checked in, and the nice guy at the desk parked the car in the impossibly small spot in the impossibly narrow garage. I tried backing into the spot myself but after many attempts with him looking on I asked him if he was in a hurry because this could take a while. He told me he would be at the parador till his 65th birthday so there was no rush but he would be happy to park it for me. 😀

      Joe was ready for a nap so I got to take myself to many favorite spots. First of all, get down to the 13C pedestrian bridge and cross it. Then turn around and remember how iawesome walking in feels.

      I spent several hours just walking around and got a bunch of tourist info to plan our next two days. So much to do! When Joe got up, we went to the castle, went to La Magdalena, and then spent some time walking with a beautiful view of the Duero snd the pedestrian bridge. We are now sitting in a cafe in the Plaza Mayor and trying to decide if we even want a few tapas before bed. Our stomachs still remember last night’s foodie extravaganza and are not calling for us to eat.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Via de la Plata
      2
      Day 35

      Day 35 - Montemarte - 20.2 km

      October 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Weather report - cool with a couple of bits of light rain
      Clothes - short sleeved merino, light wind fleece, rain jacket and trekking pants.

      Well - what a difference a day makes. And I think the difference might be a combo of food and more people.
      So let’s back up a little. Last night’s pilgrim dinner was a delight in terms of companionship but maybe not so beneficial in terms of food. We didn’t eat until about 8 or even a bit later- pasta and salad. Now I have to say the pasta was fabulous, but ….
      I didn’t have a very happy day today. In fact this day has been the most distressing so far. And nothing bad really happened.
      I had a 7.15 am start and I got to my destination around 11.45 am. The road was basically flat and the weather was good with only occasional light rain. I was really impressed with my time. I stopped a few times as my foot did give me some pain. There were a couple of guys ahead of me and the young French man, Jerome, from a week ago, behind me.
      Seemingly all good.
      Then … I couldn’t find the albergue - and took another 30 mins, asking for directions, not really understanding them, and walking around in circles. I felt tears threaten. I thought Jerome would already be there, wondering what had happened to me.
      Eventually I tracked down the albergue and as I arrived I saw Jerome coming from the other direction. We had both got lost.
      Then within the next 30 mins another 4 or 5 others arrived, all male, all choosing this stopping point. I felt a bit shocked and quite unnerved. I hadn’t expected so many people. People showered, put on washing, one man went shopping and started cooking lunch, some lay down for a rest. And I didn’t know what to do with myself
      After a while I realised I needed food so I returned to my usual routine: find a bar, eat and have a glass of wine. As I walked to town over the bridge I just wanted to cry - and I did - a bit.
      I have really enjoyed my solo Camino experience. Now that there are more people around I notice I get side tracked by others. I forget my own needs and lose concentration on my own agenda.
      Last night I left one of my good pairs of socks behind. Aagghh. So now in the last few days it’s the tiny towel, scarf and socks all left behind.
      Maybe I am getting tired? Walking a Camino actually takes a lot of focus and concentration - working out where to stop next, checking on the weather, where to get food, how much food to carry, organising your stuff.
      I think now my practice needs to be - stay focused on me, on what I need and what I am doing, not on those around me.
      I am wondering if things will get busier, with more people. I hope not. I might become the anti social pilgrim.
      Anyway I have just finished lunch. I don’t really want to go back to the albergue so I will finish this blog, and then go back and stick my nose in my online book.
      And see what tomorrow brings.

      Buen Camino

      Evening update
      I didn’t have my giant Menu del Dia lunch today - they didn’t offer it at the cafe -so I only had one course. Then later in the afternoon I got really cold and angry and sad.
      I went to the shop but it was closed for siesta. Grrrrr. So I went later. For dinner I made pasta with tomato and tuna and had two delicious Spanish pears and some yogurt. I ate around 7 pm and now I am warm and feel pretty fine - relaxed and ready to wind down.
      It would seem that what I eat and when I eat is critical to my success. I can’t afford to let myself run on empty- particularly in a cold albergue with no heating.
      The other guys are just eating now at 8,00 pm - definitely too late for me.
      The other thing I noticed is that one of the guys seemed really loud, often on the phone and speaking in a loud voice to others. I think that was one of the things that got to me earlier.
      However all’s well that ends well.
      This was a psychologically difficult day.
      I think tomorrow will be better.

      PS.
      The weather forecast says it’s getting warmer.
      11 - 22 tomorrow with no wind warnings. 👏👏🥰🥰😀😀      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Provincia de Zamora, Zamora, サモーラ

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