Spain
Río Vena

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    • Day 21

      A great walk from San Juan de Ortega

      April 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      We had planned right from the start of this trip that today, unless it was teeming with rain, we would walk from San Juan de Ortega into Burgos, the walk we would have done last year except we got a taxi to the hospital instead. It is the third time we have walked into Burgos, in 2013 and 2018 we tried to walk an alternate route along the river into the city, thus avoiding the long boring walk through the industrial area. And twice we failed to find the turnoff…so we really wanted to succeed this time and have a last chance of getting it right! And finally we did!!

      Rachel and Richard were also keen, and we got a taxi back and set off walking from there at 9am. When almost at San Juan the taxi was hailed by a man, obviously in distress - he was a walker, but his wife was in trouble, and he needed a taxi to take her to the hospital…they were having trouble communicating, and we realised he was French and his Spanish was bad, so Amr stepped in as translator and the taxi driver confirmed that he would drop us off, and come back in 5 minutes to pick them up….what luck for everyone!

      San Juan was lovely in the morning light, totally quiet, as everyone staying there last night had already left, and the next wave wouldn’t arrive till afternoon. It was cold, but cloudless and perfect walking weather. I had forgotten how beautiful this section was, and we hadn’t seen it in spring with all the green fields and bright green new spring leaves.

      We walked comfortably, at a leisurely pace, taking breaks when we felt like it, and having a wonderful time. And studying the Book closely, and Rachel’s maps on her iPhone, we took the right turns, and entered Burgos by the river route…hallelujah! It was a long walk - about 26kms, but Amr’s watch says 28 - and there was a long stretch around the airport, and when we got to the river part, there was still a couple of hours of walking - but we were by then feeling triumphant and knew the end was in sight. And maybe it is after our warm up walking in France, we feel fabulous!!

      Then after a bit of abluting and downtime, we set off into the town for a small wander before meeting R and R in the cathedral square and went with them to the 7.30 mass in a very fancy chapel in the cathedral…it was a pilgrim mass and we all got a cathedral postcard blessing. As we left the promised storm broke, but we had umbrellas and quickly made our way to a nearby restaurant and had good dinner, then back to hotel where Amr spotted the woman who had been so kind to him last when he was there for a week, and she remembered him and great excitement, and we all had a drink in the bar - 2 ColaCao with baileys, 1 baileys on ice, one red wine, one espresso all for €8…(maybe she was giving Amr a special price…? (The breakfast man remembered him too, quite a celebrity round here!). Anyway, a fab night, and tomorrow we set off on the official camino to Hornillos del Camino, about 21 kms…
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    • Day 20

      Burgos revisited!

      April 29 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

      It’s already 10.15pm, and Amr is asleep, but I must quickly write up the day. It started early in Barcelona, as our train left at 9.05…we had planned to walk to Sants, over an hour, but good before a 6 1/2 hour train ride…but it was drizzling, and sense prevailed and we got a taxi. We had assumed our train wasn’t an AVE, (have realised that AV is alta velocidad, not sure about the E ?España) as it took so long to get to Burgos, but actually it was a bit of both…it hurtled at 250 kms/hr as far as Zaragoza, then became a normal train shuffling along at up to 150 kms/hr at good patches, and stopping at places we’d never heard of, except Pamplona, which was a bit of excitement! It had 20 carriages, huge, and at Sants we were herded into separate pens - the coches 1 -10 and the 11-20 - and it took ages to get on board, but eventually left only 8 minutes behind time! Eventually the train split, and one lot went to A Coruña and we went to Salamanca, via Burgos. Arrived about 3.40, and right away a bus pulled in and we all hopped on for a ride into the centre - for €1.10.

      Then the exciting event of the day…our reunion with Rachel and Richard…SO good to see them. They had arrived in Spain early Saturday morning, hired a car and spent the weekend driving in the north, in mountains and having a lovely time, and arrived at the hotel shortly after us, having dropped off the car. We are at the same sweet and central hotel of last year, and of 2018, and love it…and I think in the same room!

      So we had a drink and wandered round the town, ending in dinner…just lovely, and will have a great day tomorrow…we plan to get a taxi to San Juan de Ortega and walk the walk into Burgos that we didn’t do last year. It was pleasantly warm when we arrived, about 17° and warmer in the sun, but cools off very quickly once the sun goes down, low single figures.
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    • Day 18

      Cena at Don Jamon

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

      Another tapas night ... (and I ain't got nobody?).. lol

      Another night of couple of small tappas
      it got cloudy in the evening so hopefully it will rain through the night and cool things down for tomorrow morning walk
      meanwhile I'm enjoying this little dinner right next to the monastery and there are sounds of monks singing hymns coming out through the wall
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    • Day 12

      11. DAY | 14 km

      May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Ein Tag in Burgos...

      Irgendwie hätte man heute meinen können, ich würde schon immer hier leben. Gemütlich lief ich zur Post und habe schon einmal ein Paket von 3,29 Kilo nach Santiago verschickt, um mich zu entlasten also eigentlich benötigt man zum überleben tatsächlich nichts und dann spazierte ich durch die Stadt und gefühlt traf ich eine Menge Pilger die sich meinen Namen gemerkt hatten und mich begrüßten. Die Massage war ein Traum zumindest wurde alles lang gezogen was man nur lang ziehen konnte und nun bin ich ready für morgen.

      Ich sagte euch bereits gestern, dass ich hier einen Spezialauftrag hatte und zwar lernte ich den Montag vor meiner Abreise bekannte meiner Tante in einem Restaurant kennen, Sie waren emotional sehr angeschlagen und so kamen wir ins Gespräch, aus dem sich raus filterte, dass Sie einen schweren Verlust hatten. Nachdem wir lange sprachen sagten Sie zu mir: Erinnere dich an unseren Engel wenn du in Burgos bist, da dies die Herkunft war. Also suchte ich mir heute ein schönes Plätzchen aus und verewigte durch einen Schmetterling diesen Moment und einige Minuten später flog eine Taube Richtung Himmel.

      Wisst ihr was mir alles einfacher macht? Zu wissen dass wir alle unter dem gleichen Himmel sind.

      Gute Nacht
      Elli

      Un giorno a Burgos...

      In qualche modo si potrebbe pensare che io abbia sempre vissuto qui. Oggi sono andata tranquillamente all'ufficio postale e ho spedito un pacco di 3,29 chili a Santiago per alligerirmi, quindi in realtà non hai bisogno di nulla per sopravvivere, e poi camminavo per la città e ho incontrato molti pellegrini che si sono ricordati il mio nome e mi hanno salutata. Il massaggio è stato un sogno ora sono pronto per domani.

      Vi ho già detto ieri che ho avuto un compite speciale qui a Burgos e cioè il lunedì prima di partire ho incontrato in un ristorante alcune persone che conosceva mia zia, erano molto tristi ed emotivamente e così ci siamo messi a parlare, da cui è uscito fuori che avevano avuto una grave perdita. Dopo aver parlato a lungo mi hanno detto: "Ricordati del nostro angelo quando sarai a Burgos, perché questa era l'origine". Così oggi ho scelto un posto bellissimo e ho immortalato il momento con una farfalla, e pochi minuti dopo una colomba ha attraversato il cielo.

      Sapete cosa mi rende tutto più facile? Sapere che siamo tutti sotto lo stesso cielo.

      Buona notte Elli
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    • Day 42

      Out in the world again!

      May 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Hurray! I was discharged this morning by the lovely doctor Michelle who has seen me through all this, and a lovely non English speaking surgeon. To my delight they said I could eat anything - that is nothing is forbidden, but just be moderate and not too spicy…etc…so I no longer a patient, and we had a lunch at Amr’s favourite tapas bar and I tasted delicious food at last.. and a little wine. And lots of water…I certainly will be moderate as do NOT want anything to go wrong again.

      It is a beautiful day in Burgos and we walked gently quite a lot (that was part of the instruction too - walk a lot, but not Camino!). It was siesta time most of our walking time, so the city was quiet and so good for me to see it all feeling well. Walked along the beautiful tree-lined path beside the river and sat with kindles for quite a while. Saw pilgrims walking through….life is continuing.

      Amr has booked a bus for us from Burgos (the bus station is conveniently just up the street from our hotel) to León tomorrow at 10.30, and that ride will be our viewing of the meseta. We stay in León 2 nights, another beautiful city, and then get another bus to Hospital de Órbigo (name of town, NOT a hospital!) and from there our old itinerary kicks in. Amr will walk, and I will get bus or whatever transport is available. Looked up the bus from there to the next place and it was a 16 min ride!! I’m actually starting to look forward to this life of swanning from village to village, and I’ll see all the familiar places. Anyway, more of that as it happens.

      I had my first squeezed OJ at the little bar at the hotel…so good. Soon we will set off for dinner.

      Just back from dinner: Amr had the menu del dia, but I just had soup a La Castellana which was more than enough…he had the soup too, and some salmon…now back at 10 pm and the tapas bars are still full and buzzing…surely they don’t go home now for dinner??
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    • Day 28

      Burgos

      May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

      Ik weet niet wat er aan de hand is maar mijn verhaal is verdwenen.... opnieuw dus.....
      Na gisterenavond zeer laat toch nog een kamer gevonden te hebben in hotel Belorade had ik als diner 2 zakjes naturel Chips en 4 citroenbier(tjes) genuttigd.
      Vanochtend na het uitchecken terug naar het dorp om inkopen te doen voor het ontbijt en dagproviand. Het werd stokbrood met zalm en koffie voor ontbijt en stokbrood, zuivel en beleg voor de dag. In Belorado vroeg ik een man naar het bureau van toerisme voor de stempel. Ik zag een voor mij herkenbare rugzak... en vroeg hem daarna. Hij bleek Brits en erkende de herkomst van de rugzak. Het bleek dat hij een paar jaar voor de liefde naar Spanje was geëmigreerd. Hij had zijn zoontje net naar de peuterspeelplaats gebracht. We spraken even over hoe het kan lopen en ik wenste hem nog veel geluk. Ik heb mijn verhaal maar niet verteld..
      En daarna op de pedalen.. al snel waande ik me in no-mens-land. Zover ik kon kijken natuur of landbouwgrond. Ik ben gestopt met me af te vragen of de route ook de kortste is (want dat is niet) maar dan is het uren stil, heel stil met een landschap van heuvel na heuvel en ja hoor ook zeker een dal. De zon liet zich niet zien vandaag, de wind liet zich wel horen en voelen, het was koud mag ik zeggen en de hele dag dreigde een regenbui, daar is het overigens bij gebleven. En daar fiets ik dan, de wind waaide om mijn oren, nee niet even maar eigenlijk de hele dag, dus goed gekleed blijven! En dan is daar dat kleine dorpje met een huiskamer, een café en open dus in de remmen om even bij te komen. 3 kopjes koffie in totaal en ik zag dat deze huiskamer ook een aardig alcohol-assortiment had en gedurende de afgelopen dagen had ik gezien dat er al op vroege uren 'werd geschonken'. Ik denk dat het sociale isolement daarvan de oorzaak is. Wat ook is opgevallen is dat er behoorlijk gegokt wordt. Met formulieren zit men voor de tv voor waarschijnlijk een uitslag. Ik neem aan dat men niet op de fietser gokt (🙈🙈) En dan fiets ik weer verder. Rond lunchtijd zet ik mijn fiets aan de kant bij een kinderspeelplaats met banken. Ik ben de enige. Op een gegeven moment word ik aangesproken door kennelijk 2 pelgrims te voet die vragen naar de busregeling. Ik verwijs hun naar een café wat ik net voorbij was gereden. Na de lunch voelde ik dat ik een extra pauze moest inlassen en vervoegde mij bij het café. De 2 pelgrims zaten binnen en ik vroeg hen naar hun tocht, ook op weg naar Burgos ze vonden het koud buiten en hadden een taxi besteld. Zo zie je maar dat eenieder zijn eigen beleving bij deze tocht heeft... 3,5 uur later arriveerde ik na menig heuvel op en af in Burgos, zij waren waarschijnlijk al lang in Burgos... de zon scheen en op een bankje boekte ik via booking.com een hotel, net buiten het centrum. Mijn lunch werd ook in het park genuttigd en daarna via de kathedraal, met stempel naar het hotel toe. Met een voldaan gevoel over de dag die ik met veel momenten van teveel naar ik had overwonnen. Ik bedoel hiermee dat er gedurende de dag weer veel momenten waren geweest met teveel onderwerpen die ik terug moest weten te brengen tot niet meer dan ik om een helling te overwinnen... en het lukte, de focus op de 4- kante meter voor je neus, het voorwiel. Een bijzondere ervaring die werkt!!!!!!
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    • Day 17

      Menu del Dia for me

      June 3, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

      Thankfully my blisters are not infected but they do hurt as they're still a little uncomfortable
      the medical people cleaned them up and disinfected them and told me to take some rest
      Decided to hit 1st menu del Dia on the way to my hostel

      Well actually we going to do some little tapas and tortilla bravas at the local Hangout
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    • Day 33

      A day in Burgos

      April 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Not the day we imagined…we love Burgos and I hadn’t planned to spend the morning in hospital…we persuaded them to discharge me, but I have to say I still feel queasy, which is upsetting as I can’t face the beautiful food on offer. I also couldn’t face another lonely night in the hospital…once in the ward, it is a very solo experience…they are very nice,, and try to do a little English, but my Spanish has gone to pot under the circumstances and it is very frustrating not to be able to converse properly.

      So we did venture out a little. Amr had explored a bit yesterday too and he back on track with the city. It really is a city, with cars even going through the centre, but as charming as ever. I got to check out the cathedral and Plaza Mayor…Amr had to have dinner alone as I couldn’t be around food!

      Not sure where we stand for tomorrow…plan is for me to taxi to Hornillos del Camino, but it is a tiny place and we’ll see in the morning.
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    • Day 18

      And what a glorious morning

      June 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      God, it feels so good to be able to just sleep in your own room and get up at (what now is considered) very late time
      I obviously just drag myself out 😊
      so far feeling pretty good
      having a Mediterranean breakfast and will try to do a little bit of sightseeingRead more

    • Day 19 - Atapuerca to Burgos - 21km

      September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      I am resting in my 1 star luxury in Burgos after a long hot shower and exploring Burgos Cathedral.

      I started off in the morning at 8am. I had planned to leave at that time as I wasn’t in a rush and I had a place booked already. Unfortunately, in the morning I saw the forecast and there was rain scheduled for noon. If I had seen that last night, I may have planned to leave earlier to try and avoid it.

      Oh well, off we go, the first part was a climb out of town on a very rocky path. When crossing the top, I saw the labyrinth that we passed the first time. I have pictures but never remembered where it was.

      Once down from the hill, it was a pretty easy going path. The next step was to find the riverside way into Burgos instead of the industry area. When it came time make our turn, there were a few of us looking at maps. We made the turn, and reality is that not very many people walked this way today.

      When I got into Castañares I had to make a choice to walk by the river or walk where the businesses were. I decided to walk where the businesses were as it was now raining and I would have more opportunity to duck out of the rain if needed. I was partially correct. I forgot that it is Sunday and most businesses are closed, except for restaurants and bars.

      It started to come down hard as I was passing a bar, so I went in. There were signs everywhere saying there is a 10 Euro minimum. I wasn’t hungry but I was wet and cold, so it was worth it. I ordered meatballs and rice salad. I did not enjoy either of them but the rain had slowed now so time to move on. I checked Google and I had an hour walk left.

      It only rained a little more, and then stopped. I had found my hotel, checked in and flopped down on my bed. It was such an amazing feeling. I had no where I had to be, no one to meet, no one expected in the room, I could just empty my bag and leave everything anywhere I like and wander around naked.

      The shower was huge and had a chair in it. I got undressed and had at least a 15 minute shower, then it was time to flop on the bed again. Checked Wifi and it was so fast, I am in heaven!

      I did want to see the cathedral while here so I decided I better head out. As I was at the cathedral, I ran into Marie so we toured it together. We could download the app and listen /read the descriptions throughout the cathedral. It didn’t disappoint, but boy am I tired now!

      Tomorrow will be a short day again. I want to do a little shopping here in Burgos and the shops don’t open until 10, so it will be a late start with a 12km walk.

      Throwback to 2009 from Julie’s journal

      The morning was kind of nice in Burgos. We stayed in bed well after 7pm watching everyone else pack up and go. We finally arose and was out the door by 7:45am. But before I go into the day, I have to tell you how nice it was last night sleeping beside him. At one point, he unzipped his sleeping bag and snuggled into me (spooning), it was so wonderful. After about 30 mins, he started to fall between the beds so I had to let him go but it was a wonderful memory.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Río Vena, Rio Vena

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