Is this Opera?
14 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
The Staatsoper or Viennese Opera House was on our hit list from the word go, but it is not easy to get into. I checked the performances over the period we were there and we had the choice of one of Wagner’s ring cycle (all 5 hours worth?!) or ‘Einfuhrungsmatinee zur Premier von DIE VERKAUFTE BRAUT’, on the Sunday Morning between 11&1pm. After a bit of research, I gathered that this was a pre performance of The Bartered Bride by Smetana, so no contest then. We booked a couple of tickets and headed off with no real idea what we were letting ourselves in for, apart from the fact we knew whatever it was would be in German. Well, no surprise there, and we knew we would enjoy the music whatever the language. It was going to be a great experience to attend this world famous Opera House. The building on the outside is partly covered as it is undergoing renovations and gives one no real idea of the incredible interior. It is quite breathtaking, which shouldn’t be a surprise bearing in mind the rest of Vienna. The photos will give you an idea. Interestingly, the auditorium itself was not quite as grand as I had expected, but still pretty special and to our surprise I had booked seats in a box! This was not apparent from the seating plan. The box was clothed in red velvet, had 7 seats and its own anteroom, for hanging coats etc. There were three very charming Austrian ladies on the front row, two empty chairs on the second row and then us on the 3rd, raised on a ledge. Early on it became apparent that this was an introduction to the coming Opera mainly in word, with not that much in the way of music - uh oh! The compère spoke very well with no notes and was clearly very amusing from the audience reaction, although of course the jokes were lost on us. We hope we smiled in all the right places and were introduced to the conductor, director, who told us all about their role in the production and finally, the producer, who once wound up, went on at length with great enthusiasm! The highlight for us was when Peter dropped his water bottle with a great clatter and had to grovel about on the floor to retrieve it. The ladies were very understanding. Music finally arrived in the shape of some of the artists involved in the production. They were excellent as you might expect, accompanied by a maestro on the piano. They sang a little from The Bartered Bride, but then to our confusion gave us a touch of Wagner, Dvorak and Donizetti. All lovely and I’m sure the reasoning was perfectly explained if you understood German. As we said earlier, an experience, and we were glad to have make it inside the Opera House.
After that, there was only one place to go, Cafe Sacher round the corner for yet more coffee and cake. Can you really have too much?
We head home tomorrow, albeit with a flight change and possible delay. (thank you BA, there’s always a down side!) It has been a fascinating week and we have enjoyed renewing our acquaintance with Austria. The places we have visited have been captivating and the train travel has worked well. A trip we can thoroughly recommend.En savoir plus
Majestic Vienna
13 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
This morning we made our way to Josefplatz, right in the middle of Imperial Vienna. We had tickets for a performance at The Spanish Riding School, by the famous Lipizzaner horses. The arena in which they perform is simply fantastic; elliptical in shape, of classical design with 46 Corinthian columns supporting the domed roof & three amazing chandeliers to light their way. These Spanish horses were first brought to Austria by Emperor Maximilian 11 in 1562. In 1580 they were given the name Lipizzaner after a stud farm in Trieste and around the same time the first riding hall was built. The baroque building we see today was completed in 1735, under the reign of Karl V1. On entry to the arena horse and riders ‘bow’ to their founders portrait which is positioned over the royal box. The elegant white stallions that perform are born black and only acquire their dazzling white coats between the ages of 4 and 10. The training of both horse and rider is long and extensive. The ‘ballet’ they perform lasts an hour and is highly disciplined, technical and in three parts. The overall effect is quite magnificent in a setting to match. Photographs are not permitted during the performance, not wishing to startle the horses, but I have included some of the arena.
After all this artistry a call at one of Vienna’s famous coffee houses was definitely called for. Demel was close by and we soaked in the atmosphere, enjoyed a first class coffee and it was time to sample an apple strudel and vanilla sauce, having ticked off the Sackertorte in Salzburg. Well, it’s almost obligatory isn’t it? Before leaving I purchased some of their special candied violets. The cafe would supply candied violet sorbet to Empress Elizabeth or Sisi as she was known.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the old part of Vienna in all its glory. The Cathedral is at its heart and known as Stephansdom or ‘Steffl’ to the locals. It is pure Gothic, although parts of it date back to the 11th century. The Cathedral was badly damaged by bombing during World War 11 and was lovingly rebuilt from the ashes as a symbol of hope for the future. We were lucky enough to listen to the choir and accompanying orchestra rehearsing for a performance this evening.
Vienna was of course the capital of the Habsburg Empire for centuries and at its centre is the Hofburg, Vienna’s former Imperial Palace. It is a vast grand building surrounded by museums, the Parliament building, the Burg Theatre and others in similar classic style. I am sure the idea was to ensure any visitor to Vienna was seriously impressed and intimidated by the power of the Emperor and the Hapsburg dynasty and you would be hard pressed not to be.En savoir plus
Majestic Vienna
13 septembre 2025 ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
This morning we made our way to Josefplatz, right in the middle of Imperial Vienna. We had tickets for a performance at The Spanish Riding School, by the famous Lipizzaner horses. The arena in which they perform is simply fantastic; elliptical in shape, of classical design with 46 Corinthian columns supporting the domed roof & three amazing chandeliers to light their way. These Spanish horses were first brought to Austria by Emperor Maximilian 11 in 1562. In 1580 they were given the name Lipizzaner after a stud farm in Trieste and around the same time the first riding hall was built. The baroque building we see today was completed in 1735, under the reign of Karl V1. On entry to the arena horse and riders ‘bow’ to their founders portrait which is positioned over the royal box. The elegant white stallions that perform are born black and only acquire their dazzling white coats between the ages of 4 and 10. The training of both horse and rider is long and extensive. The ‘ballet’ they perform lasts an hour and is highly disciplined, technical and in three parts. The overall effect is quite magnificent in a setting to match. Photographs are not permitted during the performance, not wishing to startle the horses, but I have included some of the arena.
After all this artistry a call at one of Vienna’s famous coffee houses was definitely called for. Demel was close by and we soaked in the atmosphere, enjoyed a first class coffee and it was time to sample an apple strudel and vanilla sauce, having ticked off the Sackertorte in Salzburg. Well, it’s almost obligatory isn’t it? Before leaving I purchased some of their special candied violets. The cafe would supply candied violet sorbet to Empress Elizabeth or Sisi as she was known.
We spent the rest of the day exploring the old part of Vienna in all its glory. The Cathedral is at its heart and known as Stephansdom or ‘Steffl’ to the locals. It is pure Gothic, although parts of it date back to the 11th century. The Cathedral was badly damaged by bombing during World War 11 and was lovingly rebuilt from the ashes as a symbol of hope for the future. We were lucky enough to listen to the choir and accompanying orchestra rehearsing for a performance this evening.
Vienna was of course the capital of the Habsburg Empire for centuries and at its centre is the Hofburg, Vienna’s former Imperial Palace. It is a vast grand building surrounded by museums, the Parliament building, the Burg Theatre and others in similar classic style. I am sure the idea was to ensure any visitor to Vienna was seriously impressed and intimidated by the power of the Emperor and the Hapsburg dynasty and you would be hard pressed not to be.En savoir plus
Vienna and Art
12 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
We arrived in Vienna by train as planned and settled into The Kaiserhof, our home for the next few nights. Just down the road was a restaurant with its own microbrewery (very much to Peter’s approval) and we chose the Tafelspitz, which is a local speciality we wanted to try and excellent it was. By accident we ordered one portion to share and it was just as well. There was no way we would have managed a portion each!
Today has been an Art day, in particular one Gustav Klimt. I’m a fan and couldn’t return to Vienna, his home town, without a pilgrimage to admire his work once more. Peter was a little unsure exactly what he was going to see and I must admit to keeping him slightly in the dark, which was undoubtedly a good move.
We started out at The Belvedere, a baroque palace built by Prince Eugen of Savoy, a celebrated Hapsburg general. He used the the reward monies for his victories during the war of Spanish Succession to undertake one of the most ambitious building projects by an individual to create his summer residence. There is an Upper and Lower Palace joined by what was once a classic Le Notre French style garden, which is sadly in poor shape, clearly due to the box hedging being ravaged by the dreaded moth. It is in the process of being replaced and consequently a complete remodel is underway. The interiors of the palace are beautiful and pure baroque and are now devoted to art and there is much to see beyond Klimt.
However, there is only so much time, so the Secession movement was our focus (well, make that mine). Works by Klimt, Egon Schiele & Richard Gerstl dominate, with the odd Monet thrown in (a contemporary), plus some stunning paintings created by women, who of course were wildly underestimated at the time.
The famous Marble Hall is spectacular and was the setting for the signing of the state treaty to guarantee the re-establishment of a free and democratic Austria in 1955, some ten years after the end of the 2nd World War. It was signed by the four allied and associated powers,
USA, Great Britain, Russia and France, plus the Austrian foreign minister Leopold Figl. The agreement was then announced from the balcony to a massed crowd that had gathered below.
We moved on to Karlskirche, a striking baroque church it is difficult to describe. All I will say is it is a vision in white and gold. I will include photos which will tell the story better than I ever could. To our surprise it is dedicated to Charles Borromeo of the Isola Bella and Madre family, the patron saint of the fight against the plague and was built in 1715-1757 to thank God for delivering Vienna from the epidemic of 1713. We knew a little of Charles Borromeo and his sainthood from our visit early in the year to the Italian Lakes, but not enough to not be surprised at his coming into the picture in Vienna.
Our final port of call for the day was to the Secession Building. The Secession movement was founded by Gustav Klimt and a group of like minded artists in 1897. It was a breakaway from the traditional artistic view of the Viennese elite. This incredible building was designed as as an exhibition venue in 1898 and conceived as an ‘art temple’ of early modernism and a key work of Viennese art nouveau. It must have been startling and controversial when it was first opened, but has stood the test of time and still is a shining beacon of modern architecture today. In 1902 its first major exhibition was dedicated to Ludwig van Beethoven, for which Gustav Klimt created his famous Beethoven frieze.
The fresco paid homage to Beethoven’s 9th symphony and in particular the Ode to Joy anthem. It was originally displayed in the large white exhibition hall, with a window in the wall showing a famous sculpture of Beethoven outside as part of the installation. The frieze was later moved to its permanent position in a basement space. The room is a rectangular white box, empty apart from the fabulous art work that circumnavigates the top of three of the walls. I accept it is possibly an acquired taste. We walked in and Peter gazed around looking somewhat puzzled: “is this it then?” was the comment. Perhaps I had overdone the majesty of the work! It is of course all in the eye of the beholder and whilst to me it is a masterpiece, to others maybe less so. We sat down and talked it through - I don’t think he is convinced. Art lesson completed, but a failure!
It was time to find supper in the shape of a great fish restaurant in the Naschmarkt. A beer always helps .En savoir plus
Vienna and Art
12 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
We arrived in Vienna by train as planned and settled into The Kaiserhof, our home for the next few days. Tafelspitz was our choice of meal last night, a local specialty we had to try and excellent it was. By accident we ordered one portion to share and it was just as well. There was no way we would have managed a portion each!
Today has been an Art day, in particular one Gustav Klimt. I’m a particular fan and couldn’t come back to Vienna, his home town without a pilgrimage to look upon his work once more. Peter was a little unsure what he was going to see and I deliberately kept him slightly in the dark, which was undoubtedly a good move.
We started out at The Belvedere, a baroque palace built by Prince Eugen of Savoy, a celebrated Hapsburg general. He used the reward monies for his victories during the war of Spanish Succession to undertake one of the most ambitious building projects by an individual to create his summer residence. There is an Upper and Lower Palace joined by what was once a classic Le Notre French style garden, which is sadly in poor shape, clearly due to the box hedging being ravaged by the dreaded moth. They are in the process of being replaced and a complete remodel is underway.
The interiors of the palace are beautiful and pure baroque. The buildings are now devoted to art and there is much to see besides Klimt.
However, there is only so much time, so the Secession movement was our focus. Works by Klimt, Egon Schiele & Richard Gerstl dominate, with the odd Monet (a contemporary), plus some stunning paintings created by women, who of course were wildly underestimated at the time.
The famous Marble Hall is spectacular and was used to sign the state treaty to guarantee the re-establishment of a free and democratic Austria in 1955, some 10 years after the end of the 2nd World War. It was signed by the four allied and associated powers, USA, Great Britain, Russia and France, plus the Austrian foreign minister, Leopold Figl. The agreement was then announced from the balcony to a massed crowd that had gathered below.
We moved on to Karlskirche, a striking baroque church it is difficult to describe. I will include photos which will tell the story better than I ever could. It is dedicated to Charles Borromeo of the Isola Bella and Madre family, the patron saint of the fight against the plague and was built in 1715-1757 to thank God from delivering Vienna from the epidemic of 1713.
Our final port of call was to the Secession building. The Secession movement was founded by Gustav Klimt and a group of artists in 1897. It was a breakaway from the traditional artistic views of the Viennese elite. This incredible building was designed as an exhibition venue in 1898, conceived as an ‘art temple’ of early modernism and a key work of Viennese art nouveau. It must have startling when it was first opened and is no less so now, having stood the test of time. In 1902 its first major exhibition featured a major show dedicated to Ludwig van Beethoven, for which Gustav Klimt created his famous Beethoven Frieze. The fresco paid homage to Beethoven’s 9th symphony and the Ode to Joy. It was originally displayed in the large white exhibition hall with a window in the wall showing a famous sculpture of Beethoven outside. The frieze was later moved to its permanent position in the basement space. The room is a rectangular white box apart from the fabulous art work that circumnavigates the top of three of the walls. I accept it is possibly an acquired taste. We walked in and Peter looked around looking somewhat puzzled. “Is this it then?!”; perhaps I had overdone the majesty of the work!! It’s all in the eye of the beholder and whilst to me it is a masterpiece to others maybe less so! We sat down and talked it through - I don’t think he was convinced. Art lesson completed, but a failure!
It was time to find supper in the shape of a great fish restaurant in the Naschmarkt. A beer always helps.En savoir plus
Hallstatt
9 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Today has been moving day and we decided for this trip we would use the trains. Now had we been in the UK, no doubt the drivers would be on strike for an annual Legoland visit for the whole family, including a distant cousin whom they never speak to. Here, it is a very different story. The information on arrival at Salzburg’s modern clean station was clear, even to those not speaking German as a first language. Arriving on the proscribed platform to our astonishment the train was already there and there was plenty of time to organise luggage and find the reserved seats and guess what there was no one else sitting in them refusing to move! It went out on time to the minute and arrived in the same vein throughout the journey. We changed to a smaller regional train that took us to Hallstatt station and then walked the short distance to the ferry which used to be the only way of reaching this picturesque tiny village hugging the shores of Lake Hallstatt, a classic drowned glaciated valley.. We passed through here about 15 yrs ago on a walking holiday and vowed to return if we ever had the chance. Peter and a friend had detoured off to visit the local salt mine and were late returning and ended up running through the village in order to catch the ferry, so saw very little. The rest of us sat on the terrace of the Gruner Baum Hotel drinking tea and taking in the views, which were and are glorious. It’s risky returning - as things are not always as you remember them. Roads and tunnels have now been put in and the village is clearly firmly on the tourist route, which is a disadvantage, but we will see if its charm remains. Hallstatt evolved as a result of the salt mining nearby. Man has been digging out salt deposits in the Dachstein Mountains for some 5000 years. The name Hallstatt means ‘salt’ ‘settlement’ and originally began as living accommodation for the miners, the salt being transported out of the village by boat. I suspect the beauty of the surroundings were secondary at the time. Peter says the salt mine visit was fascinating and I’ll take his word for it! This is meant to be a couple of days of chill before hitting Vienna. We’ll see what tomorrow brings?
Well, we have certainly had plenty of chill today, but not quite where I had hoped. It has rained non stop, and we took our planned constitutionals with umbrellas in hand. I had booked a lovely balcony room overlooking the lake, planning to sit on it and drink in the views - the best played plans……….
Also, my concerns have sadly been justified. The setting and village is still lovely, but gone are the charming artisan workshops to be replaced with cafes and the usual tat. Coaches deposit visitors at one end of the village (not possible 15 years ago) for their hour long slot and they wander desultorily through the village, more concerned with taking umpteenth selfies of themselves, pouting at the camera. One couple were still commanding the same spot half an hour later when we returned from our walk! If that’s all they’re interested in it would be better if they stayed at home posing in the back garden!!En savoir plus
Festung Hohensalzburg
7 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
The City of Music
7 septembre 2025, Autriche ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
This is the second instalment of our Golden Anniversary travels. We touched down in Salzburg last night, as the sun was setting behind the surrounding mountains in shades of pink and gold and made our way to the appropriately named Goldgasse Hotel situated in the old part of the city. Our hostess was on the door to meet us and plied us with a welcome glass of something sparkling whilst the formalities were dealt with. Something tells me all will be well, as the supper that followed was of a similar ilk!
Salzburg has long been on our hit list and is a small city that has changed little over the years I suspect. To say music is at its heart would not be far from the truth. It is of course the birthplace and home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the musical genius, and we have visited his birthplace today, along with his marital home, which is a museum, now next to a Spar shop. “How useful!” exclaimed Peter, “should the great man need a snack between compositions”! His musical output was prodigious, (Mozart’s not Peter’s!), having written his first symphony at eight years of age, but he struggled to make a living, as his outgoings always eclipsed his income (a common problem!). His early death at 35 in December 1791 left the world with the beginnings of modern music and his wife Constantia was tragically left to bring up their two surviving children alone. She was 29.
Salzburg is full of beautiful architectural masterpieces and is a joy to walk around. Lunchtime found us walking along the banks of the River Salzach when what should come into view but the terrace cafe of Hotel Sacher of Sachertorte fame. This of course was exactly what Peter had been waiting for and we took a table overlooking the river and the castle looming above the city, whilst we awaited delivery of the long awaited coffee and cake! It was no disappointment and quietly enjoyed to the full in the warm open air whilst watching the world go by.
It is Sunday and the inhabitants are out walking and socialising, beautifully turned out to a man and woman. No scruffy souls here. It was a joy to behold. Most of the fascinating individual shops are closed, it being the Sabbath, and we were reminded of days gone by in England, when Sunday was special and not just like any other day.
The other musical claim to fame of course is Salzburg being the city where ‘The Sound of Music was filmed. You can take ‘the tour’ should you so desire, but we chose to wander through many sites easily recognisable from the film and I kept expecting Julie Andrews and the Von Trapp children to appear around the corner at any moment, singing Do-Ray-Me! This was particularly true in the Mirabellgarten and the Pegasus fountain. In the grounds of the Schloss Mirabelle is a very grand Aviary built by one of the Archbishops to house his collection of singing birds. They were apparently in glorious full song today and so we went to take a look. A bit of a disappointment! The birdsong was on tape and an art installation of modern type was on display to represent our feathered friends. I’ll upload a photo so you can appraise the artistry!
Late in the day we reached The Dom Quartier of Baroque splendour, again little changed over the centuries. The superb Cathedral was Mozart’s church, where he was baptised and later became organist. Imagine the musical firsts performed here and written by the master?
It was whilst I was taking photos of the square that Peter had one of his incidents. Ever since we have been married he has been approached by strangers from time to time, demanding to know ‘where the Persil is kept these days young man’ and similar enquiries. Obviously, he is tall and was black haired, now white, and stands with an upright posture and an air of authority about him, as if he knows what he is doing, (quite untrue of course, he is just waiting for me!). Usually the question is in English and so can be answered with a degree of aplomb, not on this occasion. Out came a spate of questions from a German lady who seemed to think Peter was the answer to her prayers and didn’t take it very well when he didn’t ‘sprechen sie Deutsch’. Oh to be able to take a video at the correct moment rather than to be off taking photographs elsewhere! Let’s see what tomorrow brings!!En savoir plus
VoyageurIt all looks and sounds delightful. Perhaps except for the modern art which seems to me to be a load of old balls! A destination that has always been on my list too and the Sachertorte is calling me . I'm sure it will be one of "my Favourite things !"
The Finale!
26 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
And so we come to our final day, spent relaxing and wandering Pallanza for a final gelato and reflecting on all we have seen. The weather is clear and the views over Lake Maggiore to the Alps glorious. It has been a fabulous few days and Italy’s ‘Golden Lakes’ did certainly not disappoint. A special journey to remember.En savoir plus
Giardini Botanico di Villa Taranto
25 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Our final garden visit was to the youngest garden on our list, established by Scotsman Captain Neil McEacham, who bought Villa Taranto and 50 acres surrounding it in 1930. As you may have gathered this was no ordinary captain. He was born into a wealthy Scots family, owners of a shipping company, rich iron and coal mines and vast estates in Australia. Neil first came to Italy at the age of eight and it was an experience that changed the course of his life. He loved the landscape here in the Italian lakes and so began his long interest in botany and plants. He bought the property having seen an advertisement in The Times and soon began to transform its appearance. Between 1931 -40 two thousand trees were felled, massive earthworks were undertaken and 8 kilometres of pipes were laid to facilitate the water features he had planned. The most delicate work was the botanical repopulation. Seeds and plants were collected and brought from all over the world, using the fleet of company ships that were at his disposal!
His grand scheme was almost complete at the outbreak of the Second World War in 1939. McEacham was then considered an enemy of the state and deported to Switzerland and to his horror had to leave his creation. The solution was to present his beloved Villa Taranto and its garden to the Italian State, on the condition that it should remain private. The estate was entrusted to his great friend and lawyer Antonio Capelletto. Captain McEacham rode out the war years in Australia, where of course his family had business connections.
On his return after the war the garden and villa had inevitably fallen into a state of neglect and he was encouraged to put it to rights and open the garden to the public, which he achieved somewhat miraculously by 1952.
Today the garden is full of unusual plants from all over the world. There are some 20,000 plants representing more than 3000 species set among 7 kilometres of paths. It is a total tour de force. Sadly the Captain did not live long afterwards to see his creation so admired. He is buried in a purpose built mausoleum in the midst of his fabulous garden, which seems a fitting conclusion to an extraordinary life’s work.En savoir plus
Isola Bella
24 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Our afternoon visit was to Isola Bella, the largest and grandest of the Borromeo Islands. The Palazzo and its garden were completed in1680. Isola Bella translates as beautiful island and it seems to float above the blue waters of Lake Maggiore like a ship in full sail, as we could see on our approach in the launch. It simply towered above us. Originally, the island was named Isola Isabella, in honour of the wife of Count Carlo Borromeo 11. Isabella received the island as part of her dowry and in 1630, and it was she who envisaged and set in motion the creation of its baroque gardens to compliment the Palazzo.
Palazzo Borromeo has been added to and adapted over the centuries until it evolved into an incredibly opulent palace, designed for maximum grandeur and prestige. Any visitor, both past and present, could not fail to be impressed, which was of course the intention. The Borromeo family have been at the heart of European aristocracy for centuries and have welcomed many important guests over the centuries. There are of course beautiful staterooms, paintings, furniture, cantilevered staircases and even a whole suite of tufa and shell adorned garden rooms to provide shade and a resting place for the family and their guests in the heat of the day. Everything has been thought of and included.
The garden is strikingly theatrical and dominated structurally by Teatro Massimo. This is a flower filled amphitheater of 10 terraces forming a truncated pyramid and was used as a backdrop for lavish theatrical performances. There are statues and fountains and at the very top stands a unicorn, the heraldic symbol of the Borromeo family, just in case you were in any doubt where you were! At the summit is The Grand Terrace, which is 37 metres above the lake. As you can imagine the views in all directions are spectacular and it is difficult to know where to look. The gardens are planted once again with a variety of exotic plants, happily co-existing in this very special microclimate, where most of them would not normally grow. White peacocks roam across the lawns under a huge camphor tree and at this time of year there are roses everywhere in full bloom. It was fabulous to behold, but in a totally different guise to Isola Madre.
However magical and fantastic are the Borromeo Islands, their palazzos and gardens, these are not museum pieces. Guided by modernity, the low key Borromeo family have gently kept their historical inheritance relevant, with seemingly the humility that is at the centre of their cote of arms.En savoir plus
Isola Madre
24 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
As we thought, today was crammed full of extraordinary sights. We departed by boat this morning to visit the world famous Borromeo Islands that lie just off the town of Stresa on the opposite side of Lake Maggiore. These islands have been owned by the Borromeo family from the C16th until the present day.
Our first port of call was to Isola Madre, the largest of the islands, which is a relaxed and natural paradise of plants that were gathered from all over the world at the height of the ‘plant hunters’ expeditions. This collection has evolved into an impressive botanic garden over the years. From the dock we followed the Viale Africa, a path which leads you ever onwards through subtropical and evergreen planting into the garden proper. As you glance to the right there are views over the water that stop you in your tracks. Our pace was slow, to take in the views and because there were so many plants too exclaim over.
The garden was planned and planted in the C17th and was one of the first in Italy to feature a Camellia collection. They were brought here as early as 1830 and around 150 species now bloom in early March with great exuberance.
They are followed by Azaleas and Proteas in April, Rhododendrons, Roses, Cacti and Water Lilies in May and June and so it goes on. The island is crammed with exotic plants and specimen trees surrounding the Palazzo or the family’s ‘summer cottage’ as they like to call it! The Grand Staircase leads the family and their guests up through the garden to their home, when they are in residence. As with the other incredible villas we have seen, access is by boat and here, of course, there is no alternative!
Exotic birds wander through the undergrowth startling visitors with their erie calls. The approach to the Palazzo is dominated by a magnificent Kashmir Cypress, whose seeds arrived from the East in 1862. It is a glorious specimen and all the more remarkable because it was felled by a tornado in 2006. Amid great consternation the head gardener quickly developed a plan and saved her with a sophisticated engineering technique and here she stands still, in front of the Palazzo Loggia del Kashmir, a testament to one man’s horticultural ingenuity.
The Palazzo itself is not large by villa standards and is shabby chic in feel. I would imagine little has changed over the years with the exception of modern lighting and plumbing of course. The family could obviously afford to modernise if they so wished, but prefer to keep their home as it has always been. In effect, it is a C17th time capsule of curiosities, art and family history. It is absolutely fascinating. There has been a long tradition of puppet theatres and entertainments over the years. All the sets and puppets are on display. They are incredible. The most impressive theatre was designed by Alessandro Sanquirico, the scenographer at La Scala Milan! Such is the pull,of the Borromeo family.
On exiting the Palazzo, you are led to the Pizzale della Capella. This is the chapel where family members are married to this day. It is the most beautiful spot. There is a piazza with a large tropical blue pool filled with water lilies, surrounded by palms. Thankfully, one can buy a drink and sit in the shade taking it all in. Imagine this setting for a very exclusive wedding!
We gradually made our way through the garden back towards the landing stage to rendezvous with our launch. I loved Isola Madre for its wild romantic atmosphere. Nothing is overdone. It feels natural and comfortable and I can see why the Borromeo’s want to leave it just as it is, so would I. Whatever next we wondered?En savoir plus
Moving Day!
23 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
This morning the sun shone down on Lake Como, just as we were leaving! At least we saw its waters sparkling in the sunlight at last.
Our journey was to take us to Lake Maggiore for the second half of our trip.
We arrived in Pallanza at The Grand Hotel Majestic around lunchtime and had the afternoon free to explore the pretty little town and get our bearings.
This is certainly a Majestic hotel, as its name suggests. Our room was large and very well appointed with the great views overlooking the gardens and Lake Maggiore herself.
Lunch was enjoyed out in the sunshine and we wandered around the lakeshore promenade and the town in relaxed mode. In truth it was the first downtime we had had and by the looks of the itinerary are likely to have. The view over the lake to the snow covered Alps is beautiful and yet another reminder how close we are to Switzerland. Many workers live here and travel into Switzerland daily and I can see why. The lower cost of living and way of life are a constant attraction I would think. Half way through the afternoon we struck gold - yes, you’ve guessed it, a first class Gelateria! This will be first of daily visits I have no doubt!En savoir plus
Villa Balbianello
22 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Our afternoon visit took us to the south of Lake Como to the town of Lenno, where we had lunch. Villa Balbianello is an elegant, romantic, C18th mansion and garden set on a wooded promontory overlooking the lake. There are two ways of reaching the property, either by boat, if the lake is calm, or a long walk in. It was judged not calm enough for the boat ride, so we walked up through the woods before emerging into the grounds of the Villa. We certainly made our 10,000 steps today!
The last owner and architect of all we see today was Count Guido Monzino, a latter day adventurer and explorer, who clearly loved a challenge. Like a magpie, he collected objets d’art from all over the world during his travels, which adorn his unique home.
One approaches the villa down a winding path, lined with pollarded trees. There are the classic tall slim Italian pines and beds of box hummocks (no dreaded moth here!) and colourful Icelandic poppies on the way down. The villa is divided into two sections, separated by the magnificent Loggia Durini, overlooking the lake. Cardinal Durini was the original owner of the villa, which was built and adapted on the site of an ancient Franciscan monastery in the C18th . I have no picture of this spot I’m afraid, as the whole area had been taken over by the selfie maniacs, who seem to think they have the right to overtake any attractive spot and deny anyone else a chance to look. This was not the first time we had come across the phenomenon, but it was by far the worst example of people’s hideous and even aggressive behaviour.
To the left of the Loggia is Guido Monzoni’s chart room and library, from which his expeditions were planned. Across the loggia is the rest of the villa. (We had a private tour organised, so escaped the screaming hoards!). There are beautiful reception rooms, housing English and French furniture of which the Count was very fond and a lovely suite of rooms created for his mother, who apparently visited once, never to return. Nothing was to her taste! You can’t please some people, even with the headboards in the bedroom being solid silver!!
Climbing a set of winding stairs brings you to the exhibition loft. Here are displayed many photos, flags and honours marking Guido Monzoni’s life as an adventurer, including one of the eight sleds he used to reach the North Pole. There are even artefacts from his Mt Everest ascent. This was clearly a man who didn’t stand still for long, but hopefully retreated back to his fabulous home to retrench and recover when necessary. I could happily sit on his grassy terrace looking at that marvellous view of Lake Como for a very long time - as could Daniel Craig aka James Bond when Casino Royale was filmed here. The setting is so stunning several movies have had scenes filmed here. Villa Balbianello seemed a fitting end to our Lake Como exploration and we returned to our hotel for a final superb dinner, before packing up to travel on to the second part of our adventure.En savoir plus
Villa Carlotta
22 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ 🌧 11 °C
Our second day in and around Lake Como began with a visit to Villa Carlotta on the opposite side of the lake to Villa Melzi. This was the home of Giovanni Battista Sommariva and his family. Here was another dazzling, influential politician, who used his enormous wealth to cultivate his passion for the arts in the creation of his home and surrounding garden. As I mentioned yesterday, there was an intense rivalry across the lake, to see who could out do the other!
In this case we could tour the interior of the villa, as it is now in the hands of the Italian state. In 1843 Villa Carlotta was sold to Princess Marianne of Prussia, who in turn gifted it to her daughter Charlotte, on the occasion of her marriage to Duke Georg 11 of Saxe-Meiningen. Sadly, Charlotte died young, but her husband and family remained at the Villa, refining and adapting it and the spectacular gardens. It was during World War 1 that the property was confiscated by the Italian government, as a German family was deemed an enemy of the state. Since 1927 the estate has been entrusted to the Ente (Trust) Villa Carlotta.
The interior of the Villa is quite beautiful. Giovanni Sommeriva was particular addicted to sculpture and there are some fabulous examples on display, in particular several by the master Antonio Canova. The marble entrance hall is
classically adorned with a spectacular marble frieze depicting the triumphal entry of Alexander the Great into Babylon by Bertelsmann Thorvaldsen. It is placed above the door lintels and runs all the way round the space. In the centre of the room is Mars and Venus (The Peace) by Luigi Acquisti, which is equally arresting. It is quite an entrance and so the theme goes on, from room to room, each as incredible as the last. It is difficult to make any form of comparison with Villa Melzi of course, because the the latter is privately owned by the family and not open to the public, but one can imagine it is more of the same.
Eventually we drifted out into the garden. This is large and divided into differently themed areas, up hill and down dale, due to the steeply rising nature of the land. From the lake shore there are C17th flights of steps and five terraces leading up to the Villa, adorned with fish ponds, fountains, flower beds and hedges, as well as tunnels of citrus trees and climbing roses. Again, as with Villa Melzi, guests would have approached by boat and the beautiful Villa in its superb setting would have been appreciated to the full. There is an olive grove, a fabulous green ‘theatre’ set in a valley. This was very important, as sets and backdrops made up of vegetation were used to great effect in outdoor entertainment. A particular favourite of mine was The Valley of the Ferns. Here is a steep sided valley with a stream at its base. On the banks grow ancient plane trees, tulip and chestnut trees, alongside imposing tree ferns, native to New Zealand. It is a green sward of stunning beauty, sparkling as the sun penetrates the canopy and illuminates the tree ferns underneath. I have included a photograph, but in honesty it does not do it justice. There is a rock garden and succulent bed, a Bamboo garden and the Saxe-Meningen garden consisting of a natural rise of massed camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons. We almost take these for granted today, but of course they would have been imported from China at great expense when the garden was planted and were the exotics of their day. All of this is surrounded by ancient woodland, which the cultivated garden gradually blends into.
So, how do we compare the two fabulous villas facing each other across the lake? Of course, we do not and cannot. Both estates are equally incredible works of art and although they would probably glower at the prospect, the owners are to be congratulated on their achievement!En savoir plus
Varenna and Villa Monastero
21 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
After a leisurely lunch in Bellagio, it was time to board the ferry once more for the short trip to the charming town of Varenna. Hanging over the side looking at the views was out of the question, as the heavens opened and shelter was sought in short order. Fortunately, the cloudburst did not last for long.
Our purpose was to visit the Villa Monastero. As its name suggests, the garden is constructed around the ruins of a monastery, built in the C16th. The residence is now an International Science and Convention Centre.
The surrounding garden is particularly long and narrow due to the topography and its winding paths closely follow Lake Como’s shoreline. It is renowned for a fine collection of Mediterranean and tropical plants, in particular an amazing ‘garden’ of rare citrus trees. These are planted close to the water’s edge and by rights should not survive in such northern climes. However, the garden faces south and the land rises sharply behind creating shelter from the cold and a favourable microclimate exists that enables exotic species such as these and many others to thrive. The planting is lush and as you might expect statues and fountains are dotted throughout in varying states of C16th decay. There are many beautiful viewpoints over the garden and the lake and the overall effect is really magical.
Close by is Villa Cipressi poised on a rocky promontory. Here is a Botanic Garden of succulents leading down from the beautiful terrace of what is now a very smart hotel. Its paths are steep and stepped and I had to take the easy option here, as I was not sure my knees would cope!
I settled down and ordered a pot of tea on the terrace having asked Peter to take some notes and photographs for me. This resulted in only one, as he seemed to think there was not much to take ?!!
And so ended our first day on Lake Como. It was time to retreat back to the Grand Hotel Menaggio for dinner, which was very fine. We will be extremely comfortable here I can see. The food, ambience and service are superb, not forgetting those magnificent views over the lake.En savoir plus
Lake Como and Bellagio
21 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
The day had dawned cloudy and grey, as our small group of five, plus a guide made our way to the 9.30am ferry that would take us across Lake Como to Bellagio and our first garden visit. The ferry is the best option for traversing the lake, as distances by road can be tortuous. Lake Como is long, narrow, deep and outstandingly beautiful; dotted with picturesque small towns and villages and lined with magnificent villas and gardens. The Lakes are drowned glaciated valleys formed during the last Ice Age and the mountainous backdrop of the Alps add to the drama of the setting.
Across the lake from our hotel is Bellagio, set spectacularly on a promontory. It has been described as the prettiest village in Europe and is full of quaint streets and alleyways, churches, cafes and boutiques, radiating a definite aura of sophistication. It was busy when we paused for coffee and I imagine is heaving at the height of the summer! Emerging from the village we walked along the lake’s shore before approaching the gates to Villa Melzi d’Eril.
The villa was built by Francesco Melzi d’Eril as his ‘summer palace’ between 1808-13. the Melzi’s were influential; wealthy patrons & politicians who entertained lavishly. Franz Liszt was a frequent visitor. The neoclassical villa was designed by the most illustrious architect of the time Giocondo Albertolli
and is set in romantic, enchanting, park style gardens on the shores of the lake.
Statues and fountains abound and the views in all directions are superb.
There was considerable rivalry between Melzi and his neighbour on the opposite side of the lake, Giovanni Battista Sommeriva of Villa Carlotta fame. They competed for political position in the Napoleonic Italian Republic, who could build the most impressive villa and gardens on Lake Como, import the most unusual and exotic plants and generally tried to outdo one another in every way possible. Keeping up with the Jones is not a modern concept!
Interestingly, one enters the garden via a tufa grotto emerging into a Japanese style garden. The sun was shining and illuminating the beautiful coloured leaves of multiple acers that are set around a small Japanese pond. The planting reflects Japan. There are koi carp floating majestically in the still reflective waters and a small bridge spans the pond like a something out of a willow pattern plate. Glancing to the right you can see Lake Como through the trees and you think it cannot get any better than this, but it is just the beginning.
A meandering path leads you along the lake’s shoreline to a Moorish pavilion looking over Lake Como. The perfect spot for afternoon tea - I know, spoken like a true English woman! An avenue of pollarded Plane trees lead you on towards the Villa’s terrace and lake landing stage. Important visitors arrived this way, enabling them to admire the beautiful Neoclassical Summer Palace in its fabulous setting. On the terrace is a large water lily pond and fountain before you would ascend the steps to the villa itself. This is still in private ownership and not open to the public. The gardens rise up from the shore, planted with specimen trees including two of my favourites, the liriodendron (tulip tree) and Cornus controversa variegata (the wedding cake tree). There are massed rhododendrons and azaleas, which would have been brought from China at great expense, all interspersed with winding paths that rise and fall within the landscape giving the walker spectacular views from every angle. There is an Orangery, now a museum dedicated to the story of the villa and Melzi family history and at the very end of the garden an Oratory, or Family Chapel, which is full of moving sculptures and tombs. Here, it is worth resting a while, in the peace and tranquility of a tiny but perfect House of God reflecting on your visit and its magnificence. Villa Melzi was certainly a wonderful place to start our exploration of the gardens of The Italian Lakes.En savoir plus
50 years on!
20 mai 2025, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
It seems quite unbelievable that Peter and I have been married 50 years this May. A lot of water has flowed under the bridge in that time;
four different homes, two beloved children and five equally beloved grandchildren. We decided to celebrate by visiting the gardens of a region of Italy as yet unknown to us, The Italian Lakes, in the company of some old friends who also love their little patch of paradise and appreciate a beautiful garden. Lake Como is just over an hour from Milan airport and we all arrived at the Grand Hotel Menaggio on its shores mid afternoon. The welcome was warm, the sun was shining and the views from our balcony more than lived up to expectations, as you will see.
We sat and enjoyed the celebratory cake provided together with a glass of wine and life was good!
The next few days will involve visits to some of the stunning gardens and their villas in the vicinity.En savoir plus
Finale
15 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
And so we come to the end of our three week journey through Canada and tomorrow we repack our cases and head for home via Calgary. On our way back to Buffalo Mountain Lodge we stopped, yet again, at the hoodoo lookout just down the road and this time the smoke had lifted sufficiently for us to get a glimpse of the view. Again, breathtaking - wherever you look. It is so disappointing that our last few days have been blighted by wildfire smoke, but Mother Nature we cannot control!
We have seen cities, towns, railways and countryside to die for. Canada is a very diverse nation and I have been struck by just how young this country is. Younger by far than the USA and that’s saying something. The country is vast and the population small, mostly settled along the US border. If you look on any map you will come across the word ‘wilderness’ time and time again and mostly Canada is exactly that, beautiful uncharted wilderness. You can travel for miles without seeing a living soul. It is an interesting mix of British and American influences, gradually forging all of this into a strong, purposeful, growing young country. We have enjoyed our journey immensely and we wish Canada all the luck in the world.
Today, I saw a quotation from a First Nation writer called Dominic Crowshoe, that struck a chord, as it seemed to reflect Canada and the Canadians perfectly. We could all do with remembering it in truth, and so farewell until the next time.
“Resilience is a spirit that affects anyone willing to endure hardships the world has presented us. And to overcome the challenges we face.”En savoir plus
VoyageurSafe travel home. Sorry the last few days were misty. Your travels have been much enjoyed by us & as we drove towards Calgary for our night flight, we visited the Kananaskis Valley, there’s a great golf course there with a welcome restaurant , where Dennis B told us he once played there! As it rained heavily all day we never saw the surrounding mountains!,!
History versus Nature!
15 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Visibility was no better this morning, so sadly, we had to come up with an alternative plan to the Gondola. The decision was to spend the morning investigating the history of Banff and the afternoon communing with nature!
We battled our way through the Banff traffic over the Bow River to the Cave and Basin National Historic Site. This is where the National Parks of Canada began. The sulphurous cave had been known to the indigenous populations for hundreds of years and had become a meeting place, the waters being important for spiritual healing. In 1883 three Canadian Pacific railway workers discovered the cave. This coincided with the completion of the railroad to Banff and the tourist potential for wealthy Victorian travellers was realised. By 1885 the Canadian government had been petitioned and declared the hot springs a reserve. In 1887 a greater area of 260 square miles became known as The Rocky Mountains National Park, inspired by the the Yellowstone example. This was followed by additional parks at Yoho & Glacier in 1886 and Lake Louise and Jasper in 1892 and so the fascination and trek to Western Canada began. It was not until 1911 that people could access the area by road from Calgary. Before then the only option was by the Canadian Pacific Railroad. The company promoted Banff as an area of outstanding natural beauty and a spa, where guests could take the waters. They financed the building of the Banff Springs Hotel, Chateau Lake Louise and Jasper Park Lodge to accommodate their clients and many more hoteliers followed suit. The Park was extended to 2600 square miles in 1930 and the success of Banff and the Rocky Mountains was guaranteed.
The cave itself is tiny and accessed down a low dark tunnel. A natural hole in the roof admits a startling and unexpected shaft of light that falls onto the warm pool of turquoise water. First Nation warriors would lower themselves on hand made ropes to collect the water in skin vessels. Outside is another warm pool, one of many that once existed. A swimming pool was on the site at one time. In the small outside pool resides the worlds only population of a very tiny snail, that can tolerate the hot, sulphurous conditions. They are about the size of a small finger nail and spend their time eating the algae that reside in the pool. A perfect symbiotic relationship between snail and pool! We could see some moving about on the surface floating algae. Isn’t it strange how the discovery of a small cave at exactly the right time has resulted in the creation of these beautiful parks that we can enjoy today.
We moved on to the Banff Springs Hotel for a drink, to get a feel of what the Victorian visitor took for granted. It is a massive grey stone gothic castle perched high above the town and the River Bow, looking out to the mountains. I was struck by the incongruity of the building now and it must have seemed even more a fish out of water in the late 1800s. I then remembered a similar feeling in Shimla, northern India, before concluding yet again, that baronial Scottish architecture was the style of the time, during Queen Victoria’s reign and copied all over the world. Inside, the feeling of Victorian splendour is replicated with opulence and we sat in the Rundle Bar sipping our drinks, feeling as if we had been transported back one hundred years. A wedding was being staged out on the terrace and a grand piano being played in the bar to entertain us. A reminder of gentler more formal times, when the ‘shorts’ brigade would not have been tolerated in the building!
Our afternoon took on a different hue. We moved on to Vermillion Lakes on the outskirts of the town, walked the Fenland Forest trail (couldn’t not, could we, with a name like that!) and to explore Vermillion Lakes Drive. This is one of the few wetland areas to be found in the Rockies, home to different plant species and lots of birds. The views across the water to the mountains beyond are breathtaking, as you will see!En savoir plus
Banff
14 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
This morning showed a little improvement from yesterday, regarding the hazy smoke filling the sky, but not enough to see the majestic mountains that surround the town. They appear as ghostly apparitions hovering above us. It’s such a shame, but we knew we had to find an activity that was not purely scenic. Consequently we headed for the Bow Valley Parkway, Highway 1A, which runs alongside Highway I (Trans Canada) for most of the way between Lake Louise and Banff. It is a picturesque drive even being unable to see
the surrounding mountains clearly. There are lookouts to observe the views, some more successful than others, and we plodded on doing our best to imagine what we couldn’t see. The plan was to stop at Johnston Canyon and to walk part of the trail to the first waterfall. A carefully constructed path runs through the canyon beside the gurgling Johnstone Creek. The sides of the gorge rise ever higher and it narrows to just a few feet in width. Trees clothe the walls, mosses abound and tiny wildflowers make their presence felt. Chipmunks and squirrels dart about and the sky is just visible above our heads. It is a classic gorge, but sadly we were never alone to contemplate its beauty. Finding a parking space in one of the two large car parks was a battle and the canyon scene was rather like the photo of the Capilano Suspension Bridge, except the path didn’t sway violently! We eventually reached and admired the first waterfall before turning back. Walking on to the second waterfall was more than Peter could consider. To quote him “I’m waterfalled out”!!
We drove on to look at some of the Mountain views, but could see little. I will include a photograph so you can get my drift. Heading back to Banff we were stopped at a railway crossing and waited a full five minutes for a very long goods train to pass. An engine at the front and in the middle.
We had a look around the town this afternoon. It’s setting is it’s crowning glory; being surrounded by the mountains of the Banff National Park, that normally would be visible from all standpoints. The centre we found overblown and touristy, but the residential districts are charming and it appears to have everything one might need, providing one’s tastes are not too sophisticated. It is clearly horrendously busy at all times, but with a little ingenuity we managed to find a car space up towards the arts centre.
Interestingly, not really feeling we had achieved that much, we had actually walked five miles today, so earned our supper.
Fingers crossed we will be able to ride the gondola tomorrow. The haze needs to retreat to make it worthwhile.
Quote of the day:
Water is the most expressive element in nature
It responds to every mood
From tranquility to turbulence
Walter PhillipsEn savoir plus
A Blank Day
13 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Well, I’m not quite sure what to say this evening, as all plans went out of the window this morning. We woke up to what we would call blanket fog everywhere. It was so thick first thing, we couldn’t even see the water of Lake Louise. I learned later that this is the result of the wildfires. The wind had changed direction to our detriment. As I mentioned it has been hazy the last couple of days, reducing visibility, but this morning there was none. Consequently, we had to put aside our plans to explore Yoho NP as there would be literally nothing to see. It was moving day anyway, so we made our way to Banff, our final port of call, earlier than planned. We arrived early afternoon and it was heaving, a somewhat unpleasant shock after the last few days! We had a car hire problem to sort out and so took the opportunity to do that. It took the rest of the afternoon!!
We are staying at Buffalo Mountain Lodge on the outskirts of the town and will have to wait and see if conditions improve overnight. I’ll keep in touch, but sadly nothing of great interest to report.
I’ll post some photos that didn’t make the cut the first time round, for your interest.
Firstly, of David Thompson the explorer/ geographer who produced the first map of the area. A great friend of Simon Fraser of a similar ilk. Both have rivers named after them, named for one by the other - if you get my drift!
Secondly, some delicious food pics to make you drool. Yep, tasted as good as they looked.
Thirdly of a rather sad lodgepole pine. Many of the forests are looking very sad as the lodgepole pines are slowly dying, due to the infestation of a little beetle that is boring through the bark and allowing disease and freezing temperatures to kill great swathes of the forest. Sadly, there is nothing to be done and natural selection will have to take its course. In case people have forgotten it is the way of the world, not just in trees!En savoir plus
Lake Louise
12 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
We were really tired after yesterday’s high jinks and decided to have a quieter’lake’ day and to enjoy Chateau Lake Louise, which is a stunning make believe French Chateau situated right on the lake. Having said all that, we ended up walking 6 miles one way and another, so plenty of steps. The weather has been overcast and again a bit hazy, so the views are not as clear as one would like, but regardless the beauty of the scenery touches the heart.
This morning we walked the footpath around Lake Louise, which extends half way around its circumference. We were not alone, as there were plenty of visitors doing the same, of all nationalities. There were beautiful wild flowers and lots of little chipmunks, some of whom were so tame as to almost be posing for photographs as you’ll see! It is a different story this evening as I write to you by the window. All is still and calm and the crowds have gone. It is a privilege to see it in its more natural state.
The afternoon saw us visit Moraine Lake using the hotel shuttle. It is only possible to visit on a tour of one type or another, the narrow winding road being closed to private cars. It is also only open during the summer months, as during the winter the lake freezes over and temperatures can reach -40 degrees, making the road impassable.
We had an hour and half to take it all in and followed our drivers advice by heading for the ‘Rock Pile’ first. This is a steep stepped climb to the top of ….well….a rock pile funnily enough! It takes about 20 mins each way. The sun had come out and the temperature risen, hence it was quite arduous, but worth every step. The view over the lake was absolutely breathtaking. Mountains encircle the water and the colour is a vibrant turquoise blue. We walked part of the footpath also, but undoubtedly the view to be had was from the rock pile. A gorgeous afternoon. On our way back the driver asked which of the two lakes we preferred. No one could answer. Both are spectacular.
This evening we ate at the Fairview restaurant and had a window table, so could drink in that sublime view whilst attempting to do justice to the equally sublime food. This is yet another very special place to hold in the memory bank.En savoir plus
Driving the Icefields Parkway
11 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
The Icefields Parkway was constructed in the 1960s and took one year to complete, which is some feat when you consider the length of it. Today we were driving one section from Jasper to Lake Louise, which is a distance of just under 250 kms. Those of you who have had the pleasure of this journey do not need me to tell you how spectacular it is in every direction. You seriously do not know where to look. There are many pull offs along the way to stop and admire the majestic scenery, so it is a stop and start trip! Interestingly, you meet the same people at each stop, as you are all doing the same thing. It becomes quite funny. The best way to give you an idea is to post the photos. The weather was cloudy today and not so clear, so please bear in mind that these only give half an indication of the drama and beauty of the scene. In reality the views are mind blowing.
Our lunch time stop was at The Columbia Icefields Centre. Here you are able to get up close and personal with the Athabasca Glacier and it was obviously a chance I could not pass by. Peter was, I think, ambivalent until we arrived and he saw the scale of the ice. I had booked a lunchtime slot, which was quiet and we set off in the Columbia Bus on the five minute drive from the Adventure Centre to the stop where you board the Ice Explorer. This is a huge 6 wheeled ice tractor capable of climbing and descending 30degree slopes and driving on to the ice. We drove slowly down the steep lateral moraine (debris left at the sides by the glacier) and on to the end of the glacier and had the chance to then spend 20 mins on the ice. That was enough, the temperature was a good twenty degrees cooler than up at the Centre, but what an experience.
This glacier originates from the Columbia Ice Sheet, which is the size of the cities of Washington DC and Vancouver together. Six glaciers overflow down mountainsides in the area and are in truth slow moving rivers of ice. They are fascinating. From a distance the glacier looks smooth, but it is far from it close to. Where it tumbles over a ridge the ice is rucked and thrown up in large spikes with deep crevasses splitting the glacier. As it hits smooth ground the ice river fans out, but is still ‘hummocky’ with rivulets of water running off it. When you can see the pure ice it is a clear blue, although the surface is often dirty as it slowly erodes. The ice was formed during the last Ice Age, 18,000 years ago, when the Wisconsin Ice Sheet covered virtually the whole of northern Canada and what we see today are the remnants. The Adventure Centre is some way away overlooking the glaciers built high on the terminal moraine (debris pushed in front of the ice). It shows you how the ice has retreated since 1840 and of course is still doing so. Interestingly, this is the second time that I have heard promulgated that the natural cycles of earths tilting on its axis have a lot to do with the cooling and warming of the atmosphere; tropical periods and Ice Ages, every 100,000 years. Geology can of course substantiate this. Our habits have undoubtedly not helped, but the Canadians feel that human activity is far from the simplistic answer.
We followed this amazing experience, with a visit to the Sky Walk. This is recently built and undoubtedly a technological wonder. A semi circular glass walkway projects out over the Sunwapta Valley and you can look down at your feet through the glass floor to the valley floor some 200feet below. This glass is strong enough to hold the weight of several Ice Explorer tractors and yet looks fragile and elegant. I am not that good with heights, but never felt in the slightest bit nervous. It is a very clever piece of engineering.
So, quite a morning. We left the centre at four o’clock to drive the rest of the way to Lake Louise, arriving at 6.30. This is our luxury stay at The Chateau on the Lake. Gorgeous!
We can look out of the bedroom window to the clear turquoise Lake Louise, named after Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter, Princess Louise. We will enjoy!En savoir plus
Jasper National Park
10 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
We collected a car today and organised park permits etc. Quite rightly, a charge is made for accessing any of the National Parks in Canada. It helps maintain them and keep them in pristine condition.
Jasper is a small attractive tourist town in the Athabasca valley, surrounded by high mountain peaks wherever you look. People like us visit in the summer and skiers in the winter. I’m reminded of Flagstaff in Arizona, where goods trains are a huge part of life.
The station here has a dominant role to play too, not only with The Rocky Mountaineer.
Massive amounts of goods are moved by rail in Canada. We have seen half mile goods trains on several occasions and there are very few large juggernauts on the highways, in fact they are banned from some roads altogether. Interestingly, you are only allowed to live in Jasper if you work here. Second homes do not exist, as the authorities do not want to destroy the town with an influx of wealthy home owners who do nothing for the area. I can appreciate that, because that would surely happen as it has in the UK.
We have made several small trips today under our own steam.
Pyramid Lake is a short drive to the north of the town climbing steadily. The lake is a beautiful blue, as they all seem to be and we started off for a short walk, to a small island just off shore, joined by a bridge. We hadn’t taken too many steps when we espied two huge female elk browsing the undergrowth just off the path. We watched them for a while, as they eyed us, before deciding to take a photo from another viewpoint! They can be very dangerous just now, as it is calving season. I did take some photos though which I’ll post.
We decided to visit two spots at this end of The Icefields Parkway, which we will also hit tomorrow. We drove up a switchback road with incredible views to the base of Mt Edith Cavell. (named after the British nurse executed by the Germans during WW1, for helping allied soldiers to escape through the lines - she was born in Swardeston Norfolk, where her father was the Vicar) I had hoped to see the wildflower meadow, but hadn’t appreciated it was a two hour hike each way and time wasn’t on our side. There were however several beauties growing at the base and again the views were stupendous, so it was certainly not a wasted journey. We moved on to the Athabasca Falls, still using the beautiful back road that had been recommended to us. Here is the Athabasca River in full spate, over a spectacular falls. Again it is difficult to describe the power and beauty of the water, even in a very small version of Niagara. Of course the setting of background mountains adds to the drama. There was even a rainbow! You’ll see what I mean by the photos.
A change of scene tomorrow, so we’ll see what unfolds!En savoir plus
The Flora & Fauna of the Maligne Valley
9 juillet 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
As an addendum, I would like to introduce you to some of the flowers and animals we saw today. I felt the previous section was already too long, so have added this piece.
The flora around Maligne Lake was subtle and beautiful as you will see. It is the time for wild flowers so I will be keeping my eye out for more, particularly in the Alpine Meadows.
The photos will tell the story.
Of course there is wildlife galore in the Rockies, some sweet and harmless, others less so.
Our guide gave us a long lecture on what to do if meeting a bear round the corner - heaven forbid! The précis of it all was if it’s a Grizzly play dead and it ‘should lose interest’. I was rather perturbed by the ‘should’! If it’s a black bear you’ll have to fight for your life if you can’t retreat, because it will kill and eat you. Hit it on the nose seemed to be the preferred strategy. I’d have died of fright first, so possibly not necessary.
On our way back we came across an osprey and it’s nest, two mountain sheep traversing an unbelievably steep rock face, an elk resting in the undergrowth (no photo sorry), and finally a black bear foraging by the side of the road. How lucky were we?
Our guide on the Mary Schaffer told a fantastic story of Mike, the wildlife warden, in these parts, whose job it is to keep,an eye on the animal population, in particular the bears. He watches them by powerful telescope high up in the meadows and was worried to see a Grizzly laying on its front, day after day. In the end, he decided he would have to investigate and made his way up there. To his astonishment the bear was happily laying on the carcass of a dead elk, feasting and sleeping continuously, obviously protecting his food supply by laying on it!! He knows most of the bears individually and when this individual woke from hibernation the following spring, he arranged to weigh him. After hibernation, when a bear will lose one third of its body weight, he still weighed 700lbs! I asked Nick how on earth you weigh a Grizzly? ‘ Ah’ he said, ‘it’s complicated and basically involves a block and tackle and a helicopter’ The mind boggles!
Enjoy the photos.
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