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Camino de Santiago 2022

September - October 2022
Walking the way of St. James from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela Read more
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  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
    23
    Day 10

    Day 7 Pt 2 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    “To arrive is to have journeyed” - Diane Wheatley :-)

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a lovely old walled city. The city was named after its founder, Dominic de la Calzada, who built a bridge, hospital, and hotel here for pilgrims on the French Way the most popular path of the Way of St. James. He began construction of the town's Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada (which is dedicated to him) and is buried in a tomb within an ornately mosaiced crypt.

    The old town is beautiful. Lots of small streets and wonderful shops all enclosed within the ancient city walls. The city of course has spread outside these walls as well, but I didn’t venture that far.

    I took a tour of the stunning cathedral. Unbelievable the panels, detailed stonework, silver and gold decor and of course the live rooster and chicken. Yup. A live rooster and chicken are caged within the cathedral and are changed out every two weeks for new ones. This has been a tradition for centuries.

    Into the cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada there is the Gothic chicken coop of polychrome stone, built in the mid-fifteenth century and which houses a living rooster and a hen in commemoration of the miracle of the hanged pilgrim, one of the most widespread Jacobean legends throughout the Middle Ages.

    “Tradition recalls how a German couple on the pilgrimage to Santiago with their son. On reaching Santo Domingo they stayed at an inn. The innkeeper’s daughter fell in love with the young man but the feeling was not reciprocated and in revenge she hid a tin jug among the Germans luggage. On the pilgrims departure from the centre the girl reported the robbery, leading to the capture of the boy, who was accused of theft and sentenced to hanging. His parents continued their pilgrimage and, on their return stopped to see the body of their son, to discover, surprisingly that he was still hanging but alive. Popular memory claims that the young man told them that it had been Santo Domingo who had helped him to stay alive while others claimed that it was the prayers of the parents for a saint to keep him alive by holding him from below. In any case the parents immediately went to the mayor to tell him about the miracle, he was sceptical and assured them that their son was as alive as the roasted rooster and hen he was about to eat. Immediately the feathers of birds returned and they came to life, confirming the prodigy and that gave rise to the famous saying: “Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the chicken sang after being roasted.”

    So there you have it - another part of my weird day hahaha.

    After ages in the cathedral, I stopped by a sweet shop to try a local specialty Trufo La Vino Roja - red wine truffles. OMG. Amazing! I also tried a Rosè one as well and some kind of crispy lemon pastry. Just to be rounded of course!

    Dinner was spent on at a terrace bar again where I tried the calamari and patates brava (fries with hot sauce and in this case, mayo too). All very good but man, the fried food is killing me, so hopefully this is the last of it for a while.

    The plan is to walk tomorrow since I couldn’t find physio and hope for the best. I at least have a bed for tomorrow, so that’s new. I have been winging it as I hoped to do, but the towns are small and therefore spaces are limited. Figured I had better err on the side of caution for a change.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
    2321
    Day 11

    Day 8 - A day of gratitude

    September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    “ A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.” – Tim Cahill

    Day 8 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado - 23 km, 8.5hrs - over 36,000 steps!

    Today was a very good day. A day of gratitude, really.

    I started at 7:07 am in the pre-dawn light from Santo Domingo de la Calzada. As I crossed the bridge out of the city, I came upon another solo Perigrina, Linda from Colorado. We got to chatting and our paces were very well matched. We mutually decided to walk a ways together as sometimes it is nice to have company.

    Our first stop was the lovely little town of Grañōn. Here there was a refreshment stand and tables and chairs in a lovely copse of trees. They had instrumental music playing in the background and when we sat down, Hallelujah started playing. It just felt right to be there in that moment. We grabbed a drink and just sat enjoying the surroundings. We decided to keep on walking together and made our way to the next town, Redecillia del Camino. A short 15 mins stop for water and to look at our maps, and we were off again. I had a bed at Viliria de Rioja waiting for me, that I had booked the night before. When we got there, we both decided we would push on to Belorado together as it was the perfect walking day - cloudy, overcast and cool. Of course after the decision was made, it got warmer and warmer and the sun was trying its darndest to shine.

    We made Villamayor del Rio and had yet another stop for refreshment. We were very hot and needed that break. The little Tienda (shop) here was awesome. They are a family from Panama and the owner is a baker. He made the absolute best ham and cheese croissant! I paired this with a sweet nectarine and bottle of water. Just want I needed for the last 6km to Belorado.

    Linda and I made Belorado at 3:40 pm - 23km, 3 rest stops and 8.5 hrs after we had left Santo Domingo de la Calzada. May have taken a while and we had sore feet / ankles. But boy, were we proud of ourselves!!

    We are staying at the Municipal Albergue El Corro. Up on the second floor of course. There are 10 of us in here 7 men and 3 women. Not one of us under 50 or 55 I would guess. I dubbed it the geriatric ward LOL!

    Linda and I went for a fabulous pilgrims meal - the best I have had so far. For €14, I had a tea before with meal, minestrone soup, lemon chicken and cheesecake. All homemade, all beautifully presented. Oh - and bread and wine - of course.

    I mentioned this was a day of gratitude. I have been thinking all day about so many things I am grateful for - today and on the Camino in general. So, here are some of them:
    • My silk sleep sack. Cost a bit but I love it! Feels like a bit of luxury but keeps me warm and so far, bug free
    • My walking poles that I purchased on arrival - I wouldn’t be able to do all these undulating hills - up or down - without them.
    • My awesome shoes - they are so far keeping my feet and toes happy. Quite the feat (pardon the pun) as my toes are not usually happy toes
    • The Buen Camino and Camino Ninja apps, and my Michelin Guide and condensed Brierleys guide - these all make it easier to plan my days.
    • My times to chat on What’s Ap with family and friends - love touching base!
    • My new Camino friends and family: Sabrina and Paula (who is likely heading off this Camino to do the Portuguese route instead); Nancy, Dave and Louie whom I miss already and how Linda.

    A day of gratitude and success fills my heart. Such a nice way to go to sleep.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
    2142
    Day 12

    Day 9 - Misty Misery

    September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    “Some people walk in the rain; others just get wet.” – Roger Miller

    Day 9 - Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca - 12.1km

    Neither Linda nor I actually wanted to walk today. We felt very righteous giving it a go when seeing all the people heading to the bus stop to take the bus to Burgos. Apparently, there are no rooms today at the next town from here - San Juan de Ortega, so they are heading to Burgos instead.

    Cloudy and overcast day with the promise of rain. We headed out just after 8 am to a cool morning. Normally I love to walk on a cool, crisp day. But, add the overcast sky and intermittent drizzle, and I was wishing I was on the damned bus too.

    Halfway to our destination for the day, we stopped in the small town of Villambistia for a drink and breakfast. We dawdled as we were still feeling tired and disinclined to continue. At the same time, we wanted to just get the days walk over with. As we sat there watching the drizzle, the wind picked up and the rain started pelting down. Hhhhmmm this place was also an Albergue…. It did cross both of our minds to just grab a room and stay put having a quiet reading day. But as it happens so often, the wind died down and the rain let up. So, we geared up and started putting one foot in front of the other again.

    We eventually reached our destination of Villafranca Montes de Oca. Appears to be a lovely little town too, with a quite impressive hotel / pilgrim’s Albergue. We of course checked into the Albergue side. Something finally to be grateful for: both were given lower bunks!!!

    It is cold out today too, to add to the misery. In the Albergue, I have not been able to get warm - I have been here 3hrs and still freezing (even after a hot shower!).

    Tomorrow is a bus day to Burgos where I will stay for 3 nights - if I can find a bed that doesn’t cost me an arm and a leg! Have an email appointment request in to a physiotherapist and will follow up with a phone call or personal visit, on Monday morning! I think I may also use the time in Burgos to look for some warmer clothes and a jacket. I can also take the opportunity to send a small package of things I won’t use now, ahead to Santiago to be held until I get there.

    Dinner was a prepackaged pasta meal and vegetable soup, with some chorizo slices. Couldn’t be bothered to pay 18€ for the pilgrim meal!

    Early to bed tonight!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
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    Day 13

    Day 10 - The choices we make

    September 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    “Be miserable. Or motivate yourself. Whatever has to be done, it's always your choice.” – Wayne Dyer

    Day 10 - Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos by bus (40km)

    I chose to be miserable today, I think.
    I chose to take the bus to Burgos rather than stretch my limits to walk up the mountain.
    I chose to not walk down the other side of that mountain due to the terrain and the chance of hurting myself.
    I chose to wimp out.
    I chose to wait 5 hours for a bus that cost me just under 3€ rather than pay 55€ for a taxi.
    Therefore, I chose a day of introspection and misery to a day of “doing” and living life to the fullest.

    I am really suffering from thoughts of my own expectations and my failure to make the most of this experience. I am making my own choices in how this journey unfolds, but finding it hard to live with and accept those choices as they are not what I had planned. I feel I am wasting precious time - waiting for buses, not starting early enough, being lazy when arriving at my daily destination rather than discovering the area, and generally letting days slip by. I want to do more. I want to BE more. I just don’t know how to get the mojo going to do that. I don’t say this for sympathy, encouragement or pity. I promised an open and honest account of my Camino, and this is it. Simple as that. It’s tough! Physically and emotionally. But that’s the point right? Maybe part of what I am learning here is to let go of those unreasonable expectations of myself. Both on and off Camino.

    Despite these negative feelings, there ARE positives too! I am overweight and underfit BUT, I have walked a total of over 125 kms in the 7 days I have walked. All bar 1 days also carrying an extra 8+ kg on my back. That’s an accomplishment. I do think of this too and am pretty damn proud of myself. I am not doing this Camino the way I anticipated, but I’m still here. I have considered hopping a flight to somewhere warm. Somewhere with a beach and sand, sun loungers and cocktails. But no. I am still here and will keep plodding along for a bit more.

    I finally got to Burgos in the afternoon and went straight to my hostel to dump my backpack. I have reserved a bed for two nights in this bustling city. Will show up on the physio’s doorstep tomorrow and hope for the best. With any luck, I will be on my way out of the city by Tuesday morning. While here though, I will get a taste for the city if I can. Today I had a great video chat with the whole family, which lifted my spirits! I showed them the exterior of and then I visited the stunning Burgos Cathedral. I have never seen a cathedral like this. It is SO extra hahaha. The altarpieces, carved walls, gothic architecture and tapestries are beyond over the top. It was truly incredible.

    Tomorrow I would like to walk up to the Castillo de Burgos and look out over the city - after I go to the physio’s office. Walk in the grand plaza and along the river. Take time to sightsee and be a visitor. Take time to re-jig my plan with more reasonable and attainable expectations. And buy some warmer clothes for heavens sake!! Where did that lovely warm sun go? Autumn has come to Spain almost overnight and I am still on summer time!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
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    Day 14

    Day 11 - Things to do and people to see

    September 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    “There are times in life when, instead of complaining, you do something about your complaints.” - Rita Dove

    Day 11 - Burgos - approx 12km around the city

    Fairly successful day, in other ways than walking:
    • I was able to make a physio appointment for tomorrow at 10am, so happy to stay for that.
    • I got some warmer clothing including a jacket, which will be much needed in the days and weeks to come.
    • Had tapas and wine with a lovely lady named Monica that I have met before
    • Went up to the Castello Burgos - the highest point of the city and a great outlook point
    • Sorted out my next stages and have beds for the next 3 nights (I hate having to book ahead!)
    • Attended Pilgrim Mass at the Burgos Cathedral
    • Caught up with other pilgrims that are in the city, that I have seen throughout my journey so far

    This was a great rest day - if you can call still walking 12km a rest day. It was a cool but sunny day and a great day for exploring the city centre. I love the wide plazas and pedestrianized areas. We really should have more of these in Canada. The buildings are all so old and generally in this area of the city, well kept. Unlike the villages I pass through, there are very few abandoned looking buildings. Again, in this area at least, as I have not ventured very far.

    The old Castello was interesting. The rampart walls are still standing and look like quite a feat of engineering. First layer is 2.3m thick!! I loved the overview of the city from up there!

    This evening was a mass and pilgrim blessing at the cathedral. I am not catholic and did not understand a word other than Pilgrim and Buen Camino, but it was a beautiful chapel and service. As a pilgrim, I feel this has to be experienced at least once. I know I will also attend the pilgrim mass in Santiago, if and when I make it there.

    Although no steps were taken on my Camino today, I F eel like I have gotten a lot accomplished and I am ready for tomorrow. After my appointment, the plan is to have a short walking day - 12km or so, just so I get back into the swing of things.

    Here’s hoping tomorrow is a great day!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
    511
    Day 15

    Day 12 - One foot in front of the other

    September 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    "Stay strong as you live your life story and remember your blessings, no matter what circumstances you face." - Dr. Damary M. Bonilla-Rodriguez

    Day 12 - Burgos to Rabé de las Calzadas - 12.8 km

    Finally! I was able to have physio this morning and play stump the Physiotherapist. First you need to understand that I have weird feet. I have huge big toes and osteoarthritis in the joints of them. My toes do not bend back like most people’s toes do, and I have had tow issues when I walk, for most of my life. When I arrived, “Carlos” watched me walk and right away could see that I was pronating and quite badly on my right side. We went over what I was experiencing and he watched me walk again, but barefoot. I explained about my shoes and why I chose them (zero heel drop = no toe issues for me!!) and he seemed impressed that I not only recognized that but that it is working well for me - for toe issues. What isn’t working is how badly I am pronating. After pushing and prodding, pulling and twisting, he thinks I have a compression issue resulting in soft tissue damage and some ligament irritation. He worked the foot for quite a while and then had me walk again. He is shocked that I have learned to walk without using my toes at all. Uummm ok. I didn’t know I did that but yay me?! He gave me a soft silicone thing that has a raised egg shaped portion to it. I wear this on my foot to help with the probation and hopefully help with the compression issue. I am to try this for 3 days and call back to let him know if it has had any positive effect. Day 1 - pain seems to have moved more to where he shows me the ligament is… not sure it is helping but will stay open minded until the end of day 3. I told him if my plan to do 3 short days and he said that was the best way - and to send my pack ahead so I did not put unnecessary stress on my feet /joints. All well and good, but I didn’t do it today (has to be booked the night before), but I have booked for tomorrow.

    Today is another gratitude day:
    • Had the long sought after physio appointment
    • Walked about 13 km to this lovely little village
    • Had a hot shower!! (bliss when there is hot water!)
    • Enjoyed a glass of wine and tapas (chorizo sausage and a hard boiled egg) at a bar and sat chatting with 3 Americans for over an hour
    • Clothes getting an actual laundry wash and dry - being done for me, not by me
    • Homemade food and the chance to connect with fellow pilgrims
    • Not only got a bottom bunk, but having a room of 8 to myself!!

    I love just wandering when I get to places like this. Just discovering the town I am in, relaxing and just “being”. This town is super pretty and very well cared for. Lots of flowers in window baskets, old stone buildings and a great little bar!

    Great pilgrims dinner of homemade saffron soup with noodles, mixed salad, tortilla (Spanish potato pie almost) and yogurt for dessert. At the table we had a couple from Munich, German who walked out their front door on 8 June - and are still walking, a man from Florida who is on his 7th Camino (various routes - this one twice), a man from Indiana who sounds just like my Uncle Len, a lady from Illinois that had biked a portion of the Camino but is now walking, a lady from Ste Clair, Quebec and another from Toronto, currently living in Montreal.

    Onward tomorrow, to a small eco Albergue in the middle of nowhere. Should be interesting.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
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    Day 16

    Day 13 - The Meseta

    September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    "I slow down when hiking. The rhythm of nature is more leisurely. The sun comes up, it moves across the sky, and you begin to synchronize to that rhythm." - John Mackey.

    Day 13 - Rabé de las Calzadas to Castellanos de Castro - 16.8 km

    I left today just as the sun was ready to peak over the horizon - 8:03 am. The sky was tinged with yellows, oranges and pinks and it was just beautiful - as most mornings here have been. I had been able to get a hot cup of tea before leaving which was a good thing as it was very cool and windy out.

    I soon caught up to an American couple (there are SO many Americans on the trail!!) and walked with them for an enjoyable 8km. It really does help to pass the time, when you have others to chat to. After a brief stop for some snacks and the “bano”, we were on the way again. Other trail friends of theirs were now walking with us, and I was struggling to keep up. After 10 mins or so, I bid them a Buen Camino and said I was going to have to step back as I could not keep their pace and breathe at the same time! I walked the remaining 7 km in solitary, taking in the beauty of the area.

    The Meseta is the area of north central Spain known for its wide open landscapes and big skies - kinda’ like Saskatchewan. A lot of people skip or avoid walking the Meseta as it is over 200km long (from just outside of Burgos, to Astorga). There are many long stretches with little shade and / or water. It is blistering hot in summer and freezing cold in winter. It’s also windy as all heck. Unfortunately to this point, someone forgot to tell the area it is supposed to be flat. Have I mentioned I hate hills? I do….but am getting stronger and more conditioned to them. Just In time for the Meseta hahaha.

    Twice today, the wind died down and I thought I’d gone deaf! The wind literally battered my ears for over 4 hours today. Must remember to wear a buff tomorrow! When I started this morning I had a t-shirt and fleece, gloves and a hat. All but the t-shirt came off within 30 mins. My arms then froze due to the wind. I got quite chilled at one point and almost put the fleece back on. But the sun was bright and the day was getting warmer so I didn’t bother.

    Due to my time constraints and the distances I am managing (so much less than planned!) I will be skipping a chunk, as mentioned previously. The issue with this is I miss an important Camino icon - Cruz de Ferro or, the iron cross. This is where people typically leave the burdens (of life) they have been carrying. You symbolically leave a stone (usually brought from home) to signify the release. Although I left my talisman at home, I did pick up a heart shaped stone on one of my first days walking. Today, I came across a St James cross along the way. I took a photo and kept on walking. Something made me turn back - uphill, so you know it was compelling! At the base were piles of rocks and stones. Most had been left by pilgrims. Some with names, some with messages, some photos etc. It was a mini Cruz de Ferro. I knew this was my chance. I dug that rock out of my bag and used my Burt’s Bees tinted lip moisturizer to outline the heart and colour the stone a shade of red. I placed the stone down gently while saying aloud what it meant to me and what burden I was leaving in this beautiful place of rolling hills and wheat fields. I wept and wept. Two pilgrims walked by offering Buen Caminos and it was all I could do to choke out a reply, while trying to hide my tears. I can’t say I walked away totally unburdened. But, my heart was a little lighter and my head a little clearer.

    I walked in to my Albergue just before Castellanos de Castro. What a welcome oasis!!! I arrived to relaxation music playing and sat down for a glass of wine. A perfect welcome after the emotionally draining morning! I finally got myself checked in and sat planning my route for the next few days, and enjoying the chill vibe. This is a new (1yr old) Albergue and the owner does all her own cooking and baking. The pilgrim meal was a seafood macaroni (don’t knock it til you have tried it!), salmon fillet and salad with orange mousse for dessert. Incredible!! As we finished our meal, we were also treated to an amazing sunset!!

    So very grateful for this day and this fabulous Albergue.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
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    Day 17

    Day 14 - Short day on the Meseta

    September 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt." - John Muir.

    Day 14 - Castellanos de Castro to Castrojerez - 11km

    After being awoken before 6 am by some rude pilgrims, I ended up leaving in the dark at 7:30 am. First time I have had to use my headlamp to help ensure I don’t injure myself.

    Made the first couple of km as the sun was starting to rise, and stopped in the lovely town of Hontanas. You almost don’t realize it’s there until you are upon it, as it is hidden in a valley. I had a long stop here having tea and chatting with other pilgrims I have met previously (the ones from Munich). I then spent some time in the lovely and real Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Inmaculada Concepcion. This church was worth the short stop. Completely “real” and not full of gilt and ostentation. The warden let me in as it was still before 9am. She had these 8” long skeleton keys to open the doors. Super cool!

    I finally started back on way. As today was a short day, there was no rush. Tomorrow will be a different story - 20km planned. The way was uphill a bit to start and then fairly flat while walking in the fields. I eventually met up with a road that took me first to the ruins of the Convento de San Antón. The ruins themselves were beautiful. But, we encountered a bit of Camino magic here. A man from New Mexico (I think he name was Romano) was singing in the ruins. It was such a privilege to be there for that moment and made the stop all the more special.

    Onward along the road to Castrojerez with a smile on my face. Again, along the road for approx 3 km more. I got to town just after 11:15 and beat my pack here by at least 15 mins. I felt silly sending it such a short distance, but it is what it is! For what it’s worth, I think my ankle is appreciating not having the extra weight! By arriving early, I also missed the rain that came to the plains of Spain this afternoon. Yippee!

    Staying the night at Alb. Orien - an Albergue run by a Spanish man and his Korean partner. My short day was specifically so I could stay here as I know they serve Korean food for dinner. Needless to say, there are also a lot of Korean pilgrims here today. Dinner did not disappoint. Bibimap - a rice dish with mixed veg and ground beef. It was fabulous!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
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    Day 18

    Day 15 - Challenges of all kinds

    September 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    “It’s your road and yours alone. Others may walk it with you, but no one can walk it for you.” – Rumi

    Day 15 - Castrojeriz to Boadillia del Camino - 21 km

    Woken up this morning by a couple of women departing at 4:15 and 4:45 am. They basically woke up the room, so others started trickling out after them. The last 4 of us finally turned the lights on just after 6am. Aaaarrgggg…. Shoot me! If you can’t beat em’, join em’ I guess.

    I was ready to roll and started walking at 6:45 am in the pitch black. All was good as there are lights in town. Shame I was at the wrong end of town for departure. By the time I left the town, I was following two other pilgrims. We were all as stupid as each other and ended up on the wrong track. Ended up walking 3/4 km out of our way (and then back). By the time we found the right way, the sky was lightening. Good thing because my headlamp is crap!! Can hardly see the ground, and it won’t turn off when it is cold out. Which is every morning. I had to take the batteries out yesterday but didn’t have time today. So now it is dead and I will give it an unceremonious burial next time I see a bin!! So much for leaving in the dark….

    Less than 2km out of town (3.5km for me!!), was a bloody imposing mountain / large hill to climb. Have I mentioned I hate hills 😂. I literally cried at the thought of hauling myself over this thing, but up I went. I stopped. Quite a few times. And cried. And gasped for air. And cried. And I bloody made it! I had two people stop to ask if I was ok. One, a man of approx 75 years old even asked if he could carry my day pack for me. I declined but that was really sweet. When I arrived at the top, another man (Frank from The Netherlands) was just behind me. He recognized me from one of my crying days. He had seen me and been chatting with me at a “bar by the side of the road” when I couldn’t stop crying. Well that narrows it down - NOT hahaha!! He congratulated me on making it up the damned hill and took a photo of me. Something he said really touched me. He said he was so happy to see I was still on the Camino and that he had been talking to people about me (what he said and to whom, I have no idea). He then said I have been an inspiration to him. Me? Me! Wow….made my morning. Next came Sabrina, from my first day! So great to see her again! Once I gained my breath back (note: I AM recovering much more quickly!), I was able to continue. After 300ft, it was all downhill!! These things are going to break me!

    Kilometres of flat fields with no habitation around brought me to a small town with a supermercado that also served tea/coffee and food for passing pilgrims. I had my first bocadilla here (meat and cheese sandwich on French stick bread). Darned bread was so crusty it abraded the roof of my mouth! Needless to say, I just ate the meat and cheese!

    There was still an 8km slog to get me to Bocadillia del Camino. This too is a challenge - the long open stretches with just yourself for company. Still, I finally made it to the Albergue just after 1pm. Megan had called while I was enroute and I spent a lovely 20+ mins with company to chat to on my walk. I was hoping to speak to Laura too but it was a bit too early for her. We touched base a bit later, after I was settled in my Albergue. This albergue has all individual beds (no bunks) and I got first pick.

    I saw Frank again and he has to taxi to the next town as he has some bad swelling in his leg and needs a couple of rest days. I asked him why he said I was an inspiration and he told me because he was really impressed with my humanity and humility. How I had opened up to a complete stranger and allowed my vulnerability to show. He felt I was an example of how the Camino affects people and how my determination to continue had impressed him. I was a little
    awed.

    Rest of the day was spent in the bar just chatting with pilgrim friends I had
    met before. Met new people too and had a fabulous pilgrim dinner. This to me is the best part of the Camino. Meeting so many new people and forging connections - some that will definitely last long after the Camino is done.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago 2022
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    Day 19

    Day 16 - A long but “easy” day

    October 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    “Tough times don’t last, but tough people do.” – Robert Schuller

    Day 16 - Boadilla del Camino to Villalcázar de Sigra - 20.3km

    Looking back on today, this was a great one!
    I didn’t have the best sleep, but it was ok. I actually got up for the first time on this journey, knowing I was walking and not worried about it. It’s hard to describe, but every single day, I have dreaded the walk. I just haven’t wanted to do it as it’s been more of a chore than a pleasure. I’m not yet at the pleasure point, but I wasn’t dreading it - and it was an 18.8km walk. As it turns out, we took a variant so we could walk by a river as opposed to the road, and it added over a km to the walk. Made for a much nicer walk though.

    When I went down to the bar for a tea, I was with a friend of a few days, James from Nee Jersey. We had our drinks and decided to walk together. He’s not an overly fast walker either and generally does shorter distances - which is why we have seen each other the last 3 days. Off we go at 8am. Me to Villalcázar de Sigra and James to Carrion de Los Condes -25km. He wasn’t looking forward to that, let me tell you!!

    There were no hills today. The way was basically flat and the first 5.7 km was mostly along a canal, so quite pretty. We decided to push on a couple of km as it was still early and we figured we would get a drink at the next stop, which we did. At this point, we took the variant and added over 1.5km to our journey. This was only ok because rather than walk beside a busy road, we got to go on a path between farm fields and then along a river. Much nicer. Stopped again at noon for another drink and a snack before pushing on ti the last 5km.

    In no time at all, we were at my destination. It really is so nice to walk and chat with someone. And raven better, we kept a good pace and did over 20km in about 4.5 hrs walking time. Pretty damned happy with that!

    We grabbed a drink here and parted ways. Jenny and Carolyn (from AUS) were here too and ended up staying at the same Albergue as I’m at since the couldn’t find the Municipal Albergue. I love these women! Sisters from Australia who are both retired nurses and in their late 60s. They are a blast! We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening together - just like last night. Only difference is there was no pilgrims dinner tonight. In fact, dinner was a bottle of wine shared by Carolyn and I, a potato chip mix and bag of mixed nuts (that will haunt me tomorrow!). We did manage a late lunch of wine and tapas first, but it wasn’t much. The only bar here was closing at 5, the only restaurant (Michelin Star no less) was fully booked out and our only option was the small grocery store. So, we made the best of it LOL. I’ve had worse meals….and worse company.

    Actually loved this day and I hope I have many more like them.

    Tomorrow is a short 6km day and I will be 2 nights in a private room with a bathtub. I can’t wait!! Hopefully meeting up with Nancy, Dave and Louie tomorrow will be so good to see them again!    Read more

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