Camino de Santiago 2018

April 2018 - May 2024
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  • 34footprints
  • 4countries
  • 2,211days
  • 310photos
  • 0videos
  • 7.8kmiles
  • 6.8kmiles
  • Day 22

    Hontanas to Castrojeriz

    May 11, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Hello from Castrojeriz, Spain....another town on the meseta. I had a good walk here this morning. I had to make a decision between this town and another town a lot further away with a lot fewer beds and lodging which would have been tough getting in after 4pm so I opted for this town. This albergue I am staying at has a 10th century wine cellar underneath it which we got a tour of....pretty amazing. Unfortunately, it was too dark for photos. That’s it for now, off to sleep as it is 10pm here. Thanks as usual for checking in!Read more

  • Day 23

    Castrojeriz to Leon

    May 12, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Hey, from the city of Leon, Spain. So, today, reality took over. I woke up this morning in a small town on the meseta in central Spain. I knew as I have known for days that as much as I walked, I would not have enough days to get to Santiago. My choices were to ask for two more weeks off so I would have the time to complete this trip or to travel forward by bus or train. I decided that I cannot ask my coworkers to cover me for an additional two weeks and to be honest, I have no desire to be out here for an additional two weeks anyway. So, instead of slogging through the rain on the meseta with no realistic goal in sight, I decided to catch a bus to Leon. I have a difficult time with this as I set out to complete the whole 500 miles but will fall short of that goal. But, at the same time, I do realize that I set very difficult goals for myself. I thought I could bang out the 16 miles a day pace without rest days and complete this in 32 days. To the contrary, I have discovered that unless you are a marathoner, young and in shape, that is not a realistic goal. My son could do it in that time frame being 19 and in shape from a lacrosse season, but not I. Soooo...I will start again on the trail from Ponferrada on Monday morning. That is 128 miles from Santiago. I have been averaging 12 miles per day for the past 2 1/2 weeks. I will need to average 15 miles per day to get to Santiago, give myself time to get to Portugal and get my ass on a plane back home on the 25th of this month. But, at least this is an obtainable goal. I will settle for the 328 miles walking...short of my goal...but okay in my mind. I have already accomplished what I set out to do when I started this. Also, there are many ways to do this trek. Many people send there pack forward by courier....I have chosen to grind it out with my pack on my back the whole way...as I will continue to do till the end. Not many photos today as it was more a travel day and a logistical planning day for me. Goodnight from Leon.Read more

  • Day 24

    Leon to Ponferrada

    May 13, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Hello from Ponferrada, Spain. First off, Happy Mother’s Day to my Mom...thank you for all of your support! I took it easy today and got myself to Ponferrada. I stayed in a small hotel last night so, unlike an albergue, check out time was not until noon. That enabled me to sleep in and take my time this morning. I also got my flight booked to come home this morning. I have an 8:30 am flight on Friday the 25th out of Porto, Portugal landing in Boston at 1:20 pm. An 11 hour flight but I lose 6 hours with the time difference. I will take the train or bus to Portland and Connor is picking me up there. I met up with two older gentlemen from London last night in Leon. They had just arrived and begin walking to Santiago today. They are taking the easier method of walking the Camino....they walk until they are tired and call someone from their booking agency to drive them to the next town. We met up at a cafe and when they learned I had been walking for almost three weeks, they wanted to here some of my stories. As it turned out, we had dinner together and had a great political discussion among other topics. The really great part?...they bought the wine!...which was the really good stuff! I arrived at the bus depot in Ponferrada at around 3pm. I had a 2mile or so walk to find the Camino path and a place to stay around 4:30. I ended up in a small albergue. I had dinner tonight with an engineer from Frankfort, Germany and a physician from Barcelona, Spain. Again, great discussion and food. Tomorrow, I am on the trail again...15 miles to the next town. I will enter the province of Galicia in the next couple of days. Galacia is very mountainous and the scenery is stunning I have been told so the photos from here on in to Santiago should be great. Galacia also has a huge Celtic influence so that should be interesting to see. It is also known for its seafood...especially octopus and I will be trying that out for sure. It is also very mountainous, so I will be grinding up and down huge hills once again. That’s it from here...I hope this finds everyone well!Read more

  • Day 25

    Ponferrada to Villa Franca del Bierzo

    May 14, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Good morning from some small village west of Villa Franca del Bierzo where I woke up this morning. I left Ponferrada yesterday morning around 7am and arrived in Villa Franca del Bierzo at around 3pm. The walk was through a few small towns and I am back into vineyards once again. I stayed in a new albergue last night. I was referred to this place by another albergue who was nearly full. The lady who owns it is struggling to make it even though it is a nice place. It was nearly empty except for 3 other people. She doesn’t have a cafe/bar and her WiFi is terrible so it turns a lot of people away. But, she was a very nice lady in her late 60’s I would guess. She even did my laundry for me...washed/dried and folded. And the fact that there were only 3 other people in the large bunk room, I slept very well which is first for an albergue for me. Other than all that, I am just knocking out the miles to Santiago. I hope everyone is well!Read more

  • Day 26

    Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias

    May 15, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Hello from Laguna de Castille...a small town up in the Galician mountains. I arrived last night into Las Herrerias, a small town of 30. I found a small pensione with a private room for a little more than an albergue so I grabbed it up. The walk was pretty uneventful and not real scenic from Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias. The hike followed a stream and a highway most of the day. Today is a very scenic day through the mountains and I will send out an update tonight if I have decent WiFi. Take care and thank you for checking in!Read more

  • Day 27

    Las Herrerias to O Cebreiro

    May 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Hey, so thank you for checking in. I left Las Herrerias heading west and found myself in a insanely uphill climb through the Galician mountains. Uphill for at least 6 km’s. The plus side was that the scenery was amazing. I landed in the Galician town of O Cebreiro....an amazing town full of history dating back to the Roman Empire. As I came through town, I hadn’t planned on staying here but a group of Australians that I had met along the way convinced me otherwise. So, I find myself in a huge albergue..170 beds..sleeping next to and above many other people. It’s tough but it’s cheap...6 euro, so, $8 US. So after the usual shower and planning for tomorrow, I came to town, had some wine and dinner and will be in bed soon. 10pm...the doors close and lock. The price you pay for cheap lodging. I hope this finds everyone well....goodnight from a small town in the hills of Galacia!Read more

  • Day 28

    O Cerbreiro to Triacastela

    May 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Good evening from Triacastella, Spain. I left O Cerbreiro this morning around 730 am. It was a painful morning albergue wise as many many people were trying to get ready at once. But, $8/night...guess you have to take the good with the bad. The walk today was a lot of uphills and downhills. The downhills are actually worse. The day ended with a 4 mile long decent into Triacastela. And, to top off a trying afternoon, I got in late and the only bed was in a shitty albergue but hey, it’s a roof, a bed and a shower....trust me, that’s about it. The tent came close to coming out of the bag again. I am in a four person room with a Spanish couple in their 60’s...they speak no English so no conversation. I current am in a cafe/bar in town having dinner...The Galician specialty of Octopus, bread and of course, red wine. Plus, I get to use their WiFi as there is none at the albergue. I am starting to have issues with my left knee...it is pretty inflamed and is becoming an issue for the last couple of days especially in the afternoon. It took me a long time today to reach town and because of it which creates more issues like bed availability because you arrive into town late. Oh well, no one promised me that it would be easy. I am around 80 miles out currently. That is it for now, I hope this finds everyone well!Read more

  • Day 29

    Triacastela to Sarria

    May 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Good evening from Sarria, Spain. Sarria is the starting point for hundreds of people per day that wish to walk to Santiago and earn the Compostela certificate. According to the “rules”, a person must walk the last 100 km to earn the certificate which is 62 miles. I have already walked around 270 miles but it doesn’t mean anything, I must walk the last 62 into Santiago to qualify. Now, having said all that, I couldn’t care less if I get the Compostela or not...it is in Latin so I can’t read it anyway. I also only marginally care if I see Santiago but I would like to see what all the fuss is about when it comes to Santiago. I am simply interested in finishing what I started. So, here is the deal. I really need to be in Porto, Portugal by next Thursday as my flight leaves for home on Friday morning. I really should arrive in Portugal on Wednesday to give myself some breathing room. Sooo...that means I need to cover 18 miles a day for the next four days so I can be in Santiago on Tuesday. I have been slowed up with my knee issue so it has put on more pressure. I have dumped all of the weight out of my pack to lighten the load. Bare necessities at this point. Anything that I could do without got dumped. Tent...clothes except for the bare minimum...flashlight...anything that weighed anything...it’s only stuff. But, I still don’t know if I can pull this off. I do risk not having a tent if I cannot find a bed but I can find someplace to throw the sleeping bag down under cover if I have to. I will tell you that the past couple of days, with the leg issues, that it has been tempting to jump on a train to Portugal and lay on the beach for the next few days but I haven’t given up yet. So, out the door at 0600 in the morning and we will see how it goes. That is it from Spain tonight, I hope this finds everyone well.Read more

  • Day 30

    Sarria to Portomarín

    May 19, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Hello from Portomarín, Spain. I will start this entry by quoting Forrest Gump when he decided to stop running. “ I’m pretty tired, I think I will go home now....and just like that, my running days was over”. My version: “ I’m pretty tired, I think I will go home now...and just like that, my walking days are over”. So, I left Sarria at around 6:30 am and walked until 4pm. I covered 15 miles...short of the 18 miles that I needed to make reaching Santiago possible. But, throughout the day, I kept thinking about which direction I wanted to head in...keep on as is, or head to Portugal. I have experienced the Camino, the miles, the people, the good and the bad. I have seen the country..from the east to the west. I have found what I needed to find...in the end, I do not need to reach Santiago...it is about the journey and not about any reward at the end. There is a whole other European country just south of me that I have never seen....a great time to see it I think. As I sit here writing this tonight from the veranda of a pensione/albergue in Portomarín. I have a private room for $33 and am sitting on the veranda, sipping local wine at $1.50 a glass, eating local olives which are most likely free and enjoying a great view of the river. And, all the while thinking....I think I will mosey on down to Porto, Portugal tomorrow and check out the city and the beaches before I go home. Who’s the wild man now?! I am feeling like a king as I sit here. I found this place on the edge of town...I should be in the city taking photos but, I have no desire to move from this spot so I think I will order dinner and watch the sun go down right from here. That’s the thing about the Camino, one minute you are slogging through the mud or baking in the hot sun while on the trail but an hour later....you are living life. Yes, my knee hurts and my feet are sore and my clothes have a funky smell by now but hey, sitting out here...wow, I don’t really care. So, I have to plan my travel to Porto...with any luck, Iwill arrive by tomorrow evening. I will keep the blog going as Portugal, I am told is a beautiful place. Goodnight from Portomarín and as always, thank you for checking in!Read more

  • Day 31

    Portomarín to Santiago de Compostela

    May 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Hello from Santiago. Even though I gave up my quest to walk to Santiago, I ended up here anyway as I needed to get here to get to Portugal so it turns out. I walked into the city...not quite the way I intended but walked in just the same. I think the Camino parallels life in many ways...You start out with a plan, work hard at it but in the end, things happen to change those plans and things end up differently. And, one can only hope that the end result still finds you standing and in good shape. As in my case here...it didn’t go as planned but I still managed to walk into the main square and see the Cathedral all in one piece. I completed 275 miles of the Camino. I have unbelievable respect for anyone who walks the whole 500 miles as it is a daunting task and it is very difficult. I left Portomarín this morning via taxi to Lugo because it is Sunday and no buses were running out of Portomarín. I had a 4 hour layover in the city of Lugo which turned out to be a welcomed stopover. The old city of Lugo is completely surrounded by a 3rd century Roman wall that is upwards to 50 feet high. It is the only city in the world that is still completely surrounded by a wall so I read. It has a walking path at the top and is more than a mile around the old city. So, I say goodbye to the Camino with all its good and bad. The good?...the people, the views, the history, the change in the country as you go from east to west, the food, the wine etc. The other positives is that you realize that you might be in a shitty albergue with less than favorable roommates or slogging through the rain wet and miserable but in a few hours or the next day, you maybe having a great time sitting at a cafe and loving life. The bad?...less than desirable bunk mates. I hate to stereotype but I will say that my worst nights in albergues were spent with the French...It was my experience which has been echoed by many others here that they can be the most selfish, self centered people that you can share quarters with and trust me...their needs come first. I know you can’t say that about all of the French but it has been my experience here. The other bad thing?...toilet paper along the path. It seems that a lot of women simply go, wipe and drop the toilet paper and leave it for the rest of us to pass and enjoy. I am not so sure what is so hard about kicking the toilet paper under a rock or some leaves but that doesn’t happen for some reason. But again, on the Camino as in life, you have both respectful people and non-respectful people. I leave via train for Portugal at 6:15 AM. I will arrive in Porto at 10:15 AM. I am shooting for a smaller town 10 miles or so south of Porto. The beach that I am looking at is called...Praia da Aguda. It looks like a pretty cool place. I am not sure what is there as far as accommodations but I guess I will find out tomorrow. Maybe sleep on the beach? Who knows? I have been told that Portugal is cheaper than Spain and the foods better. That sounds great as I found the food and the prices fantastic in Spain. So, that’s it for now, 0500 will come early but only a 10 minute walk to the train station. Goodnight from Santiago!Read more