Croatia, Slovenia and Italy

Today we went to Stari Grad, the oldest town in Croatia and one of the oldest in Europe, founded by ancient Greek colonists in 384 BC. It was a short bus ride from Hvar Town, to the other side of the island.

The historic town centre of Stari Grad and the cultural landscape of the Stari Grad Plain were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008.

‘The Stari Grad Plain is a remarkably preserved agricultural landscape that has remained virtually unchanged and continuously farmed for 2,400 years. Greek colonists from the island of Paros divided the fertile land into precise rectangular plots bordered by dry-stone walls in the 4th century BC. Farmers today still cultivate the same crops—primarily grapes and olives—using traditional methods passed down through centuries … The area preserves deep archaeological layers spanning Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian history.’

We saw part of the agricultural landscape on our the way through, with grape vines and olive trees, and barely a trace of modern machinery. But our focus was on strolling through the old town, and finding a swimming spot in the harbour. Mission accomplished.

By the time we arrived it was almost 10.30. From the bus stop on the edge of town, we weaved our way through narrow streets of stone buildings and suddenly emerged at the delightful harbour. After snooping in a few shops, we had an excellent coffee stop, then continued down one side of the harbour, looped back and around the other side in search of swimming spots that MAPS.ME had promised. We were not disappointed!

After a delightful and leisurely swim we made our way back to town to continue exploring the charming back streets, and on to the bus stop for the 2.30 bus. It was lucky we checked at the tourist office yesterday … we had thought there was a 4pm bus, but the post summer timetable kicked in today and the next bus after 2.30 would be 6pm.

While we were waiting for the bus to arrive, along with about a dozen others, an elderly gentleman was loitering (elderly as in he looked a little bit older than us). We must have looked likely clients, as he came our way and said he could take us to Hvar for the same price as the bus (5 euro pp) if there were two others interested. Sure! We spotted a couple nearby and explained the opportunity to them … and that was that. The ride back was quick, if a bit hair-raising at times, as he navigated the twists and turns as only a local could. But we had a lovely chat with the couple from Plymouth and in no time we were back in Hvar Town, noting that our bus would have barely left Stari Grad.

On the way back to Seaview Rooms, we stopped at the supermarket and bought prosciutto, cheese, yoghurt and a bottle of rose - to keep in the small fridge in our room in readiness for dinner on the shared terrace.

A final swim at our little pebbled beach nearby, and we were back ‘home’, showered and ready to hit the terrace to enjoy the sun going down. Photos included … I got a bit carried away. What a day!

The French and I have thoroughly enjoyed our time on Hvar Island - both the smaller and quieter Stari Grad, and its more sophisticated neighbour Hvar Town. It seems to me that if you’re visiting Hvar Island, either town is a fine base. Both have much to offer and when you stay in one, it’s easy to visit the other. 😎

Tomorrow morning we will take the ferry to Split and later in the day make our way to Plitvice Lakes marking the end of a fabulous week on the Dalmatian Coast - Dubrovnik, Korcula and Hvar. We’ve loved it all. And excited for what’s next 😎

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About last night …

Yesterday Hvar Town was lively but not as busy as I expected from what I’d read. Last night it was a different story. In the short time since we were on the waterfront in the late afternoon, many large cruise and adventure boats had appeared, literally docked side by side 3 and 4 deep, with through gangplanks. Next in line were a dozen or so private luxury boats, most with international flags. There were people everywhere along the waterfront, around the square and in the narrow cobblestone streets where there seem to be many high end restaurants. Welcome to Hvar Town summer nightlife. 🤩

The contrast from the afternoon to the evening was extraordinary. Where did these people come from? They can’t all have been hidden inside buildings on a sunny Sunday afternoon.. This is what I found on the www.

‘Hvar Town gets very busy at night because it is a premier summer party hotspot and luxury destination in Croatia, often called the "new Ibiza"

* High Concentration of Bars and Clubs: The town packs numerous popular venues into a small historic harbor area.

* The Sunset-to-Midnight Flow: Evening activity surges as crowds move from sunset beach sessions into the narrow stone alleys of the old town for drinks and socializing.

* Yacht Tourism and Elite Crowds: The harbor fills with luxury yachts and international travelers looking for high-end nightlife, boat parties, and clubbing.

* Island Shuttles: Hvar Town acts as the main mainland funnel where people gather before taking water taxis to late-night beach parties on the nearby Pakleni Islands.

Modern Global Popularity:
* Late 1990s: International travel publications like Condé Nast named Hvar one of the world's top islands.

* The Celebrity Effect: High-profile visitors and celebrities—including Beyoncé, Bono, and Tom Cruise—frequented the port in the 2000s, cementing its status as an elite jet-set hotspot.

* The Split Identity: Hvar Town developed a vibrant nightlife and superyacht culture while maintaining historical charm, balancing luxury travelers with backpackers.

Postscript: this morning when we went out, around 8, to find a coffee the waterfront was peaceful and almost deserted. Many of the large cruise and adventure boats had left, though most of the luxury boats were still docked. What a contrast. Literally night and day. And fun to experience both 😎Read more