January 2023

“When you get to the bottom of the Siq, you’ll see a bunch of guys who look like Jack Sparrow,” Kamal told us. “These are Bedouins. And since it’s Saturday, you’ll see kids there, too. School’s out.”

It’s true. With their kohl rimmed eyes, head scarves, and long jackets, some Bedouins look an awful lot like Jack Sparrow from Pirates of the Caribbean. I wonder if they inspired Johnny Depp’s garb?

Up until 1985, many Bedouins lived in the ancient Nabatean caves here in Petra. But that year, after the long lost city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Jordanian government moved the Bedouins to a nearby village.

“The Bedouins resented this at first, of course, wouldn’t you?” Kamal explained. “But enough years have gone by that now it’s all good in the hood. The Bedouins are the only ones allowed to sell stuff down here, so they’ve actually got a sweet deal.”

Camel rides are one thing Bedouins offer in Petra, and ever since I rode on one here, I’ve been fascinated by these amazing creatures. Camels are tailor made for this arid climate, and truly live up to the nickname, “ship of the desert.”

Kamal shared a few camel facts with us:

* They can go 6 weeks without water
* Their ears are “twisty” inside, to keep out sand during sand storms.
* They are extremely sure footed in rocky terrain, and as I have experienced while riding on one, they can traverse extremely steep inclines with ease.
* Their pretty long eyelashes also protect them from sand.

I’m sure there are more cool facts about camels, but that’s all I can remember for now.

The Bedouins also offer horse rides to the entrance of the Siq, but we didn’t want to miss any of Kamal’s information, so we walked, instead.

Before leaving us to wander on our own Kamal gave us one more piece of advice, “If you buy something in Jordan, whether it’s from a Bedouin or anyone else, remember that all prices are negotiable. It’s polite to strike a bargain. Have fun with it.”

On our way out of town, I noticed a place called the Nomad Hotel. It’s facade is a mock up of The Treasury, and it features a nifty mural on the side showing a Bedouin offering flying coffee cups and winged camels.

Later, I saw a lone Bedouin shepherd with his flock of sheep, all of which nearly blended into the Jordanian landscape completely.Read more