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Bigbury on Sea

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    • Day24

      Day 24 Bigbury on Sea

      June 23 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Länge: 21 km
      Gesamt-Strecke: 707/1.014 km
      Dauer: 6 Stunden
      Höhenmeter: ca. 350 m
      Wetter: Sonnig aber bewölkt, windstill
      Als ich aufwache checke ich sofort meinen Fuß und der sieht normal aus 💪🏻 das bedeutet es folgt ein weiterer Wandertag. Nach dem üblichen Prozedere (Frühstück, Zelt abbauen und Zeugs packen), dass ein bisschen länger dauert wie sonst, geht es wieder auf den South West Coast Path. Das Wetter spielt größtenteils auch mit, so muss es sein. Die Aussichten sind grandios und so laufe ich mit Freude auf dem Pfad. Auf dieser Etappe ist ein Fluss im Weg, aber es gibt tatsächlich keine Fähre. Man soll einfach 1 Stunde vor/nach einem Tiefstand der Gezeiten durchwaten 😳 in meinem Fall klappt das gar nicht, weil diese ganz früh morgens oder sehr spät abends sind. Da ich danach noch 2, 3 Stunden bis zum Nachtquartier laufen muss, komme ich mit diesen Zeiten nicht klar. Schwimmen ist auch nicht gerade eine Option, Öffis gibt es keine, also buche ich mir wohl oder übel ein Taxi. Am anderen Ende angekommen geht es dann weiter. Es wird steiler und felsiger, dafür sehe ich schöne Buchten und Felsen. Einmal gehe ich sogar durch eine Schafherde hindurch, die mir artig Platz machen (siehe Video). Dann komme ich irgendwann in Bigbury on Sea an und kann mein Zelt wieder aufschlagen. Der Zeltplatz liegt praktischerweise direkt am SWCP, das ist super selten.Read more

    • Day3

      Durch den Monsun...

      September 8, 2021 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Kaum waren wir heute Morgen am Kaffee kochen, mussten wir auch schon wieder zusammenpacken. Der Regen kommt. 5 Minuten später rannten wir im Vollschiff und es begann wie verrückt zu Blitzen und Donnern. Wir waren mitten in einem Gewitter gelandet, das sich direkt über unseren Köpfen entlud. Obwohl ich Gewitter eigentlich mag und diese mich auch nicht sofort aus der Ruhe bringen, war mir heute nicht mehr sehr wohl. Wir waren nämlich auf der Klippe oben und neben ein paar Büschen die höchsten Punkte. In geduckter Haltung liefen wir zügig voran, in der Hoffnung bald zum Meer und ausser Reichweite der Blitze zu kommen. Unten angekommen konnten wir endlich aufatmen. Überlebt!

      Am Meer unten trafen wir Paul wieder, den wir gestern kennengelernt haben. Dort mussten wir dann noch bis um 10 Uhr im strömenden Regen warten, bis die Fähre uns ans andere Meeresufer bringt. Dachten wir. Die Fähre kam aber nicht. Zum Glück hatten wir die Nummer des Ferryman und riefen ihn an. Der wollte bei dem Wetter zuerst nicht rauskommen, weil es im Gewitter zu gefährlich sei. Wir sollen noch warten oder wieder zurück nach Wembury gehen. 10 Minuten später rief er uns wieder an und brachte uns rüber. Endlich. Zu diesem Zeitpunkt waren wir bereits komplett durchnässt. Aus den Schuhen triefte bei jedem Schritt das Wasser hinaus. In Noss Mayo angekommen durften wir uns in einem Inn aufwärmen gehen, obwohl dieses eigentlich gar noch nicht offen war. Wir blieben für einen Kaffee.

      Von dort aus versuchten wir unsere nächsten Schritte zu planen. Isa und ich verabschiedeten uns langsam von der Idee, heute 24 km zu schaffen. Wir hatten eigentlich geplant heute nochmals zu zelten. Da aber alle unsere Kleider (z.T. sogar Rucksackinhalt in Drybags) nass war, wollten wir uns heute ein Hotel gönnen. Einfacher gesagt als getan.
      - Hotel?
      -> Gibts keins, auch nicht in erreichbarer Umgebung.
      - Vielleicht ein Campingplatz mit Trockner?
      -> Nö, auch nicht.
      - Können wir denn den Bus irgendwohin nehmen?
      -> Nö, gibts nicht.
      - Taxi
      -> Fährt auch nicht, zu weit ab vom Schuss.

      Zu diesem Zeitpunkt wussten wir langsam nicht mehr weiter. Die Chefin des Inns hatte aber wohl Mitleid mit uns und trocknete unsere Kleider im Trockner. Wir blieben zum Mittagessen.

      Wir bemerkten dann auch, dass in der Hälfte der geplanten Tagesetappe ein weiterer Fluss kommt, den man nur zwei Mal am Tag bei Ebbe queren kann. Dort würden wir erneut feststecken. Kein Bus. Wir verzweifelten langsam. Wir blieben zum Dessert.

      Irgendwann fanden wir dann endlich ein Taxi, das uns um 16:30 Uhr zum nächsten Campingplatz bringen würde. Hallelujah!!!

      Zusammenfassend war der Tag heute ein ziemliches Abenteuer. Auch wenn wir uns den heutigen Tag anders vorgestellt haben, war er gut. Wir stiessen auf so viel englische Freundlichkeit: Paul, mit dem wir schlussendlich den ganzen Tag verbracht haben; der Fährmann, der extra für uns rausgekommen ist; die Besitzerin des Inns, die uns alles trocknete und uns den ganzen Tag im Restaurant bleiben liess; und die Taxifahrerin, die extra den Weg auf sich nahm, obwohl sie noch andere Termine hatte. ❤️
      Read more

    • Day11

      Hope Cove

      June 10 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Been enjoying today so far, feels incredible to be well rested and clean as I only got going at 11. Had the funniest ferry experience yet trying to cross the Avon river, I had to ring a bell from the other side and wave to the boat house. The tide was looking so low I was fearing another long detour but sure as day, a man on a tiny boat came out to collect me. Weather is back to its best as well, I could just do with more ice cream....Read more

      Traveler

      Love it!! A personal boatman 😁 find ice cream xx

      6/10/22Reply
      Traveler

      How many ferries have you been on now?

      6/10/22Reply
      Traveler

      9 total!

      6/10/22Reply
       
    • Day10

      Bigbury-on-Sea

      June 9 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Bigbury-on-Sea or bust. Today was pure willpower, I could have waited until 8pm to cross the Erme Estuary at low tide, but even then, it was forecast to be a high low tide and the conditions are horrible so it could well have been impassable. Another option was to get an Uber around but I didn't consider this for long for the sake of integrity (and being a cheapskate). When I started this trip I also gave myself the goal of trying to achieve a one million step month, so I thought at least tarmac could be some easy miles. And so I took the whole 10.5 mile detour around by foot instead, taking me along an A-road for miles in part. It felt like a very long and unpleasant journey. But life will have to throw more at me than just persistent rain, A-road walking, unexpected 10.5 mile add-ons, and not knowing where I'm sleeping tonight to name but a few. This type of trip is all mindset and testing your resolve and it really has forced me to think opportunistically; the mist is longer just bad weather, it's perfect conditions to hide my tent without being seen.Read more

      Traveler

      You are mentally strong 💕 Have you found somewhere to pitch tonight - you must be knackered!!

      6/9/22Reply
      Traveler

      yes all good thanks!

      6/10/22Reply
      Traveler

      nice hat tho

      6/9/22Reply
      Traveler

      wanting it back already?

      6/10/22Reply
      2 more comments
       
    • Day10

      Pitch 10

      June 9 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      So in spite of all that opportunistic nonsense I was just spouting I quite literally stumbled across this cheap campsite and I'm not saying no, especially as they said they don't mind what time I leave tomorrow. Also interesting to note that today I passed at some point (but didn't see) Jim Morton, who is on day 424 of walking the entire British coastline in the opposite direction to me and I follow his Facebook page (called 'I may be gone a while')

      Beauty: 5/10
      Comfort: 10/10
      Dodginess: 0/10

      Day 10 stats:
      Distance: 35.5 km
      Move minutes: 545

      From the first 10 days (9 full walking days):
      Distance: 275.4 km (171.1 miles)
      Distance I planned to have made by now on the path: 197.0 km (122.4 miles), which would put me at Portwrinkle, where I was two days ago
      Distance I've actually made on the path: 265.5 km (165.0 miles)
      Distance to Poole: 309.5 km (192.4 miles)
      Read more

      Traveler

      Amazing! Shame you didn’t see him. Glad you’re on a camp site tonight 😘

      6/9/22Reply
      Traveler

      😄

      6/10/22Reply
       
    • Day10

      Mothecombe

      June 9 in England ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      In spite of the howling wind, I was completely knocked out the whole night. First action of the day took me to Wembury, where a marker indicated the first passing of the ⅔ point of the trail. I took the Ferry to Noss Mayo with a friendly couple from Yorkshire and after a pretty boring stretch of walking, I am waiting in a café in Mothecombe and talking to some friendly paddle boarders from Devizes. The Erme river is my current obstacle and it can only be forded an hour either side of low tide, which still isn't for another 5 hours yet. The only alternative is an 8 mile hike on country roads around the estuary so I'm at something of a crossroads where my hand is forced into slow progress for the remainder of the day.Read more

      Traveler

      Gives your feet a chance to dry out

      6/9/22Reply
      Traveler

      I said 5 hours not 5 days

      6/10/22Reply
       
    • Day12

      Walking - Day 6

      May 15, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Today's Route - Wembury to Bigbury-on-Sea
      Distance - approximately 20km (close enough)
      Beers Earned - Some
      Weather - sunny and windy

      Today we joined the South West Coast Path, England's longest waymarked trail. It stretches for 630 miles (1,000+ km) from Minehead in Somerset, along the coasts of Devon and Cornwall, to Poole Harbour in Dorset. We're tackling a measly 52 miles in our next 4 walking days.

      There were 2 rivers to cross on today's route, the first was only a short distance into the walk and the ferry operates seasonally. Lucky for us, it's ferry season but there's no timetable. It operates for a couple of hours in the morning and again in the afternoon so you just arrive at the nominated point and get the attention of the chap in his little boat (aka the ferry). This was easy enough ... there was a board which we dropped to reveal a big white circle. He came to get us when he saw it. All we had to do was close the board again so it was ready for the next person to use.

      The second river was a little trickier ... it's a tidal estuary. If you arrive one hour either side of low tide you can wade across, apparently it's only knee deep but whos knees did they use as the measure ???? Some of us have knees which are closer to the ground than other people !!!

      We didn't have to worry about anyone's knees when we arrived at high tide. Our options were to walk to the nearest bridge (14km, on roads) or arrange a cab to meet us there and drive us around to the other side. No prizes for guessing which option we took but this is why our stats show a distance of approximately 20km. We paused the GPS when we got in the cab and re-started it again when we arrived, with dry knees, on the other side. We should have stopped it completely as our GPS has a dead straight "as the crow flies" line from point A to point B by cab so we've roughly calculated the crow distance and are not claiming it as 'walk distance'. Pity, it would have added a couple of beers to the overall tally.

      Enough about the rivers, we're here for the walk ... and oh my, what a walk. Mile after mile of magnificence. Most of the walk was quiet and isolated but there were a couple of sections with carparks close enough to allow day walkers and their dogs to enjoy the area. Generally we met the dogs on the trail many minutes before the owners came into sight.

      We passed a couple of ruins of signal stations built in the late 1790s to watch for approaching enemy fleets from France. Signal officers would alert neighbouring stations by hoisting semaphore flags up a pole. Assuming the weather was good enough to see the flags, a message would eventually arrive in London faster than by horseback messenger. The flags also warned merchant ships at sea where the French privateers were lurking.

      There were a couple to toe-testing strenuous climbs but wow, the panoramic views were a reward for the effort.

      Another reward was a huge bathtub in our B&B ... leg muscles + soaking in warm water = hiking heaven on earth.
      Ahhhh !!!!!!
      Read more

      Traveler

      Poor Marty - 😉

      5/17/19Reply
      Traveler

      Did Mr Fitbody venture down the path regardless?

      5/17/19Reply

      Miss the tide and it's called Blurgh Island? Ty

      5/19/19Reply
       
    • Day821

      Bolberry

      August 22, 2020 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      On Sunday we walked across the headland into Salcombe which was quite busy but not over crowded. We then followed the SWCP back around the Bolt Head headland, the coastline was very spectacular. We completed over 12 miles in all and stopped off at "The Station" on Bolberry Down to enjoy an evening with the Quicks. A great bbq was provided and the wine and beer flowed. A most enjoyable day.
      On Monday we returned to The Station in the afternoon where we provided the bbq. A little less wine and beer was consumed, possibly due to the celebrations the day before.
      On Tuesday Kirsty joined us for a walk and we repeated the Hope Cove walk. Storm Francis was blowing hard and it was quite difficult at times to keep straight on the high ground as the gusts were ferocious.
      We thoroughly enjoyed our few days shared with Matt's family and look forward many more joint experiences in the years ahead.
      Read more

    • Day820

      Bolberry

      August 21, 2020 in England ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      We spent five nights at the Karrageen site at Bolberry, west of Salcombe.The last couple of miles to the site were via very tight Devon C roads and we were anxious not to meet any large vehicles coming in the other direction - quite nerve racking. We came here to meet up with Kirsty and Matt together with Matts immediate family who had rented a property on Bolberry Down.
      We completed a couple of walks whilst we were there - on Saturday we wandered into Malborough to pick up the Saturday paper then crossed fields to Hope Cove where we enjoyed our picnic. There was great activity on the beach and in the bay. We then returned to the site via the South West coastal path, the views from the Down were impressive.
      Read more

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