United Kingdom
North Lorn

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    • Day 2

      Road trip to Braemore Square - Part I

      August 26, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Heute machen wir uns auf den Road Trip durch die Highlands. Wir haben uns natürlich die schöne Route rausgesucht :)

      In der ersten Etappe geht es von Stirling nach fort William.
      Ziel: Ben Nevis Distillery
      😉
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    • Day 21

      Glencoe

      May 17, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      Suzie - I have been wanting to go here for quite some time for its history. I won't go into what happened here between Clan's Campbell and MacDonald. Suffice to say, it was horrible and while I previously knew about it, to hear it again wasn't nice.

      Today it's empty, quiet and peaceful

      Nik - This place is cold and starkly beautiful. It also has a horrible and confronting history.

      One day in 1692, during bitterly cold weather, members of Clan Campbell asked for shelter from Clan Macdonald. (Clan Campbell were under orders by the government at the time.)

      Highland code is that you must provide shelter to those who seek it. Even if that person (or group) is your sworn enemy. And indeed the Campbell's and MacDonald's were just that.

      After sheltering with the MacDonald's for some time, and acting under government orders, (or so the story goes) the Campbells slaughtered the MacDonalds, their hosts, men, women and children. (Obviously a BIG breech of Highland code in and of itself.)

      Now one might ask, why the MacDonald's and Campbells were enemies before this. Well, that would be because many years previously, the MacDonald's rounded up a big group of Campbells, men women and children, locked them in a building and set it on fire, killing everyone inside. (No wonder they were enemies.)

      The Scott's have a long memory, and even today, over 300 years later the two clans are still at odds. You can still find establishments with signs out the front announcing 'NO CAMPBELLS ALLOWED '.
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    • Day 95

      River and Glen View

      August 4, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      This cottage is one of my favourites in Scotland. Sitting next to the River Coupall and overlooking the beautiful glens and munros... A fantastic location.
      Its tininess in the shadow of the majestic munros gives the scale of how massive the mountains are.Read more

    • Day 7

      Fotopoint

      August 24, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Nach einer regnerischen Nacht fahren wir heute morgen bei wechselhaftem Wetter los. Heute ist der erste Tag an dem wir das typisch schottische Wetter zu spüren bekommen ☔️ 🌧️ ☀️ 💨
      Von allem etwas und immer schön im Wechsel 🥴

      Unser Weg führt uns vorbei am Loch Lomont und anderen wunderschönen Landschaften.
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    • Day 29

      Glencoe

      March 25 in Scotland ⋅ ❄️ 37 °F

      Glencoe is famous for beauty and sorrow. Three high mountains, known as the Three Sisters, create a stunning valley along the River Coe. The valley is the site of the Glencoe Massacre, one of the darkest days of Scottish history. In 1692, the MacDonalds of Glencoe were slaughtered in their beds by traitorous Campbells who were following orders given by King William III. To this day there are signs in pubs in the valley warning “No Campbells.” The nearby town of Fort William was named after the king, but locals still refuse to call it by that name. They call the town “the fort” or “the garrison.”Read more

    • Day 5

      Ben Lomond & strahlender Sonnenschein

      July 12, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Wir sind heute bei strahlend blauem Himmel aufgewacht, einfach ein Traum. Da haben wir uns entschieden auf den Ben Lomond zu steigen. Das war eine absolut richtige Entscheidung. Wir hatten einen richtig schönen Tag mit toller Aussicht, das ist die müden Beine wert! Auf dem Weg haben wir (wie jede Begegnung bisher) wieder einen sehr netten älteren Schotten getroffen, der den Berg gerade regelmäßig erklimmt, weil sein “Alpha-Bruder“ bald zum Wandern kommt und er dafür fit sein muss 😄 er war jedenfalls schneller unterwegs als wir und kann seinem Bruder mit Sicherheit die Stirn bieten.
      Dann sind wir weiter gefahren, Richtung Oban und haben auf dem Weg einen wundervollen kleinen Parkplatz mitten in den Highlands gefunden, auf dem man sogar über Nacht stehen kann 👌
      Fabian ist grad im Fluss duschen - das werde ich jetzt auch tun *brrr*
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    • Day 6

      Somewhere in Glen Nevis

      July 4, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Loch Rannoch war auch am nächsten Morgen noch wunderschön anzuschauen, die Sonne lachte mir ins Gesicht, als ich die Haustür öffnete und verschlafen nach draußen schaute. Mit Blick auf einen klaren, von Wäldern und kleinen Bergen eingerahmten See, konnte nichts mehr schief gehen. Ein Tag zum Helden zeugen! Wir kletterten aus unseren Behausungen, gingen uns im See waschen und bereiteten das Frühstück vor. Heute gab es Baked Beans und Toast.
      Wir hatten schon unser nächstes Ziel vor Augen, es war ja auch schon wieder mittags. Heute steht Fort William auf der Tagesordnung, laut Navi ca 2h Fahrtzeit. Wir planen lieber etwas mehr ein, denn eines ist so sicher wie das Amen in der Kirche: wir werden bestimmt einmal anhalten und Fotos machen. Oder auch zweimal...oder drei...
      Ich weiß gar nicht, hatte ich eigentlich schonmal von der Landschaft hier geschrieben? Ich glaub nicht, dabei ist sie doch so fantastisch!!! Je weiter westlich wir fahren, desto höhere und steilere Berge tun sich um uns herum auf. Wir sind natürlich nicht in den Alpen unterwegs oder klettern gerade durch die Rocky Mountains aber es ist schon sehr beeindruckend, wo die Schotten glauben, dass sie dort 'Straßen' bauen können. Ich fahre hier schon wirklich vorsichtig und trotzdem bremst Lea unterbewusst mit und sucht vergeblich den nicht vorhandenen Panikhaken auf der Rechtslenker-Beifahrerseite. Zum Glück fahren wir mit dem autoeigenen Navi, so dass Lea nicht beim auf-die-Karte-gucken blass und schlecht wird, denn das passiert selbst dem Fahrer auf diesen Berg-und-Tal-Straßen. Nach einigen Zwischenstopps kommen wir dann in Fort William an und stellen schnell fest: unfassbar viele Menschen hier. Kurzerhand füttern wir das Navi mit einer neuen Adresse: Glen Nevis. Ein Tal mitten in den Highlands und hier wollen wir heute Nacht bleiben. Wir fahren also wieder kleine einspurige Straßen entlang, jederzeit mit Gegenverkehr rechnend und finden schon eine tolle Stelle direkt am Fluss Nevis...allerdings steht dort, wie auf dem kompletten Weg bis dahin, ein Schild, auf dem steht, dass man dort nicht über Nacht zum Campen parken darf. Ergo campen verboten. Ergo wir fahren weiter. Nochmal etwa 10 min später fahren wir in eine klitzekleine Straße, die zu einer Sackgasse führt, hier wittern wir unsere Chance. 10 oder 15 min später spuckt uns die Natur einen prall gefüllten, naturbelassenen Parkplatz vor die Räder. Einmal kritisch die Massen beäugt, stellen wir fest: alles Tagesbesucher. Die verschwinden in spätestens 2 Stunden wieder. Also fix einparken und einmal die Lage auskundschaften. Ein Stück weit den bewaldeten und mit hohen Gräsern und Farn bewachsenen Hang hinunter...et voilá...eine halbwegs ebene Fläche, kniehoch mit Grasbüscheln bewachsen und nochmal 10m weiter konnte man ein paar Felsen hinunter steigen und stand direkt am Fluss Water of Nevis. Fantastisch. Schnell die Rucksäcke zusammen gepackt, Baloo unter die Achsel geklemmt und in Rekordzeit die Zelte aufgeschlagen. Die Luft hier wirkt nahezu tropisch, es weht im Wald zwischen den Bergen kaum Wind und wieder mal stieg das Termometer bis auf 30 Grad an. Wir schwitzten schon beim Rumstehen, ein Festmahl für alles, was hier so herumkriecht. Schnell ging es runter zum Fluss, oben im Gras ließen uns die Bremsen keine Zeit zum Aufatmen. Die Luft hier war etwas klarer, ein kleiner Windhauch umschmeichelte uns. Wir gingen uns im Fluss den Schweiß abspülen und staunten über das, was wir hier geboten bekamen. Hohe Felswände rechts und links vom Fluss, überall verschieden große Felsbrocken, auf denen man fast bis auf die andere Seite hopsen konnte. Über uns die Berge. Ein großartiger Anblick. Wir tranken Kaffee, aßen Abendbrot und genossen das wilde Rauschen des Wassers. Erholung pur!
      Heute geht es auch etwas früher ins Bett, wir erhoffen uns einen traumhaften Sonnenaufgang über den Bergen direkt vor uns (vom Fluss aus gesehen, hier oben bei den Zelten sieht man nur Wald und Farn). Unsere Zwischenzelte sind wiedermal zu einem eigenen Biotop mutiert, überall haben Spinnen ihre Netze aufgehängt und ein Schwarm Fliegen reibt sich auch schon die Hände und wartet nur darauf, dass wir unsere Pforten öffnen. Wir kämpfen uns also ins Innenzelt und fallen glücklich auf unsere Isomatten. Es ist jetzt 21:30 und immernoch taghell. Wir warten gespannt auf morgen.
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    • Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse

      July 2, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Today was a hike through the Highlands away from the major roads. It was again spectacularly beautiful. It was on an old military road laid with stone which I found a bit uncomfortable to walk on. My hiking boots are not the heaviest. The hike from Bridge of Orchy to Inveron commanded a beautiful view of a loch on which there was a huge house. I waited at the top of this hike as someone walked up from the direction of Inveron so she could take my photo. I followed a hiker who was carrying a Tesco plastic bag rather then a backpack which seemed a little odd. He disappeared around Inveron. Maybe he was a local just off to work. Just after Inveron I met a fellow walking in his flip flops carrying his boots. He was from Edinburgh and was walking the way in 5 days which meant about 20 miles per day. His feet had become so sore and swollen because of his new boots that couldn't get his boots on so he was trying to do it in flip flops. His goal was to make it to Kinlochleven which was the stage I will do tomorrow. He was making good time but when he stopped for a break I left him. I briefly talked with some Israelites and some Dutch people. It is now day 6 so everyone is getting a little tired and less chatty including myself. The midges were also getting worse which prevented me from taking any long breaks. Coming into Kinghouse there was a sign advertising a Mountain Cafe at the Glencoe Ski Mountain. It was getting colder and starting to rain so I thought stopping for a cup of tea was in order. It was 200 metres off the trail. I was also curious what a Scottish ski resort looks like. Compared to our Rocky Mountain resorts it was quite small with one chair lift that I could see. I checked on line and they supposedly have 8 lifts and the greatest elevation differential in Scotland at 740 metres. The face beneath the chair lift seemed quite steep. I wonder what the snow is like. After my tea and a little look around I persisted on to the Kinghouse. I was quite surprised as the historic hotel I thought I was staying in was gone and had been replaced with a totally new one. Start time was 8:30 and end time was 1:30. I just chilled out in the lobby as they wouldn't let me into the room until 3. As I went to retrieve my luggage, I met Mr. FlipFlop man sitting on a picnic table outside. He had his socks off and his feet were visibly very swollen. He was chatting with a fellow who was offering to give him a ride but I heard him telling the fellow that he was going to persist. What dedication. I have now completed 72 miles of the hike and have only two days left.Read more

    • Kinghouse to Kinlochleven

      July 3, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      The scenery is all starting to merge together. One day of walking is starting to look no different then the next. In fact looking at the photos I could just be staying in the same place and merely taking photos of the same mountains but from different directions surrounded by different amounts of cloud. The green treeless mountains surrounded by clouds and fog. I still think it is very pretty. I decided today that I don't think I could live in Scotland. It is too wet and cloudy and dreary. Sometimes I visit places and I think to myself how wonderful it would be to live in such a place but although I have enjoyed the ruggedness and beauty, I don't want to live here. My ancestors were wise moving to Canada. The hike today went through a mountain pass. It probably commanded the biggest elevation gain followed by a drop into the village of Kinlochleven. The toughest part of the walk was supposed to be the Devil's staircase. It certainly sounded very ominous but it was merely switch backs through a mountain pass. Although strenuous it was not as hard as many of the hikes we have done in the Rockies. It was then a long descent into Kinlochleven. I think descents are harder on the feet than ascents. I met a group of 19 Virginians spread out along the trail. I walked for a while with a young woman from London who was camping solo and trying to get a few miles out of Fort William by tonight so she would only require a mile or two hike to the train station. She will have done the hike in pretty well 5 days. She said she had blisters and was limping. She told me that she just wanted to finish. I imagine she was going to do 24 miles today. She was moving at a good clip so I just had to let her go. The campers and the five day hikers don't seem to be enjoying themselves as much as the 7 and 8 day BNB ers. I had expected to come across the flip-flop man collapsed in the heather and left for dead along the path but was fortunate not to have found him. Hopefully he made it the day before. Kinlochleven was a village dependent on an Aluminium smelter for its economic well-being. Water from an adjacent reservoir was diverted through pipes coming down from the pass generated electricity for the smelter. The smelter which had employed 700 people had closed in 1996 and we all know the economic story of one industry towns who's major employer shuts down. With WHW tourism things seemed to have bounced back a little. BnBs never replace heavy industry jobs. I don't want to live here. They did turn one of the smelters into a climbing gym and what was really neat was that one of the walls was a refrigerated ice climbing wall. It looked rather neat. I watched the women's soccer game last night with a Dutch couple and an American couple. I met them wandering around town and we planned to meet tonight to watch the Dutch play Sweden. I found a house decorated with lots of Garden gnomes. I love gnomes.Read more

    • Day 9

      Day 9 Kingshouse to Kinlochleven

      May 21 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Another wonderful day! We left Kingshouse early after a great breakfast and began walking through Starfall landscape! The sky was a crystal clear blue and the mountains looked stunning!
      We climbed up the Devils Staircase to the highest point on the WHW. It was wonderful and not too bad a climb at all. Mountain streams and views that were beyond words! Carried on across the mountains and then a steady climb down into Kinlochleven. Stunning views of the loch and later of the aluminium works and water pipe system that fed the works now closed down.
      Found our Hotet and were pleasantly surprised to see that we had separate rooms this time! Checked in but then found that one of the twin beds in my room hadn’t had the sheets changed!! Same in Gwyne’s! Head housekeeper was extremely apologetic! What goes on!!!
      Hotels is actually very nice. Small and old but ok.
      Walked from the hotel to an incredible waterfall.
      Oh yes! The gnomes! Lots in the gardens here apparently to deter the deer ! Probably not worth planting flowers etc as they would eat them!
      Dinner this evening and then off early for our last walk’! 😢😢About 9 miles today including the waterfall. 15 miles tomorrow to Fort William!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    North Lorn

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