• Hari 4

    Hanoian Evening

    27 September 2019, Vietnam ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    We spent the afternoon and evening exploring Hanoi and its Old Town. Actually, I spent the afternoon catching Grab taxis on failed errands for moto gear and phone sims all over the city. Nancy, Don, and Mary spent the afternoon getting lost on the way to and the way back from a water puppet show where Nancy was able to extend her 'blur' photography portfolio. We met for our first banh mi sandwich before continuing our walk into the evening.

    After watching Don and Mary finish their gelatos we headed to the famous Hanoi Beer Corner. Beer corner was just getting started, but we did get to witness a beer cheerleading squad.
    Beer Corner video:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/DVegn5anZtqWD4jaA

    Don and Mary retired for the night and Nancy and I continued our walk to Hoàn Kiếm lake. The lake is at the center of north Vietnamese culture as it is the place where the metal to forge a famous sword was given to the king to defend the homeland. The turtle god then asked for the sword back when the king was finished with it. Hoàn Kiếm is also a center for Hanoian nightlife. People stroll its shores much like an evening promenade around the zocalo in Mexico. It seemed that every few steps we ran into people practicing dance steps, jumping rope, playing jenga, or singing pop-up karaoke.

    Here are a couple of video links from our stroll.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/d5f2pxoNh1votApa8
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZyzoVVfFoqcwQrQL9
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  • Hari 4

    Ha Long Long Ha Bays

    27 September 2019, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Ha Long Bay. I first read about this area a limestone karsts almost thirty years ago. Sea Kayak magazine ran a trip repo on the place. It was relatively empty then, it's pretty much packed now. Manh from Vietnam Real Tours booked us a trip to the lesser traveled Long Ha bay.

    This was the first cruise that Nancy and I had ever been on and I have to admit it was pretty plush. We participated in most of the activities. Kayaking, bicycling, swimming, and a cooking class. We skipped sunrise yoga in favor of staying in bed.

    We cycled to a small village on Cat Ba island for a wine tasting. Cat Ba translates to 'Women's Island' and is about 100x larger than nearby 'Man's Island'. The rice wine tasting was special in that it took several forms based on whatever was being pickled in the wine. Most of the concoctions were brewed with plants and herbs to be beneficial to women's health. Vitality, cancer prevention, smooth skin, youthful appearance. The men's concoctions were brewed with scorpion and snake and dedicated to stamina and fertility.

    Don and I took part in a cooking class/competition. Things were fine until he brought in a ringer from the audience to coach him on the finer points. Despite the shenanigans it all turned out to be delicious.
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  • Hari 3

    Hanoi

    26 September 2019, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    SFO to Hanoi

    A short report here.

    Our friends from Amsterdam will be staying in our house while we are away. We spent three pleasant days together before Augie dropped us at the airport. They made us some delicious beet burgers for us on our last evening together. We need to ask for the recipe.

    We met our friends Don and Mary at the International Terminal and immediately headed to the KLM lounge for a bit of food and relaxation. The flight was long, but uneventful. Before we knew it we'd all slept well and arrived in Hanoi. The line to finalize the visa was tedious, but soon we were sitting in our hotel lobby having a tete a tete with the tour operator who helped us arrange our route and driver. Manh ta Tien was very enthusiastic and supportive as we laid out our route from north to south.

    Hanoi
    Long Ha bay
    Ninh Binh
    Phong Nha
    Peacetrees
    Hue
    Hoi An
    Ho Chi Minh Saigon
    and the Mekong

    In Hanoi we had our first meal at Bun Cha Huong Lein. The restaurant made famous when Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain shared a meal there. They have since enclosed the table and place settings in plexiglass. The food was delicious. Note that Nancy and I didn't even take time to look up at the camera.

    Next. Long Ha bay cruise...
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  • Hari 1

    Vie. Viet. Vietna. Vietnam!

    24 September 2019, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Jeez. Tickets for March 9th. Trip postponed. Tickets for September 9th. Trip postponed. Tickets for September 15th. Trip postponed. Tickets for September 23rd. Finally!

    After awhile I wasn't sure that I'd ever make it back to Vietnam. This despite already planning my next visit before Augie and I left Hanoi last year. That trip with Augie was so epic that I had to get back as soon as I could.

    Worth the wait! This time I flew with Nancy and our good friends Don and Mary. We've been planning this month - long trip since March. We have enlisted a tour agency to provide us with a driver who will take us to some great places as we move from north to south of this beautiful country. Two weeks in tour, three days in Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, followed by two more weeks riding motorbikes in the northern mountains near the Chinese border.

    I've included some photos from last year to get us in the mood!
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  • Adina's Pupuseria

    12 Juni 2019, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌫 21 °C

    So. It's been awhile. Lots of pleasant memories being made, but today was special. Our friend Adina Quintanilla from La Libertad, Salvador came by to teach us how to properly make pupusas.

    It was a blast!

    Here's the recipe:
    Maseca Flour
    1/2 Bag Maseca
    Water
    Pour into wet bowl and manipulate while adding water to consistency of thick peanut butter.

    Tomato Salsa 2QT
    6 Large Tomatoes
    1 Onion
    1 Garlic
    Salt
    2 Tbs Apple Cider Vinegar
    Boil Tomatoes and 1/2 Onion in half gallon of water for 5 minutes. Puree in blender with Garlic, and salt to taste. Add Vinegar.
    SAVE HOT WATER

    Repollo
    1 head regular Cabbage
    1 Onion
    1 Tbs Oregano
    1 Carrot
    Apple Cider Vinegar
    Salt
    Shred Cabbage. Carrots, and Onion very thin. Add them to large bowl with Oregano and Salt to taste. Add saved hot water and steep for 5 minutes or so. Add Cider Vinegar to taste.

    Pork Filling
    1 lb chili ground Pork
    Tomato Sauce (Above)
    Cook until lightly browned and stir in Tomato Sauce until it holds together a bit.

    Veggie Cheese Filling
    1 Bunch Spinach
    2 larger Zucchini
    2 lb Shredded Monterey Jack
    Shred spinach and grate Zucchini.
    Add a handful of water to cheese to make it glommy.

    Assembly
    Use water on hands to pat a squash ball sized bit of Masa into flat disc a little smaller than a yogurt container lid.
    Add filling of choice.
    Pinch edges of masa up, around, and over filling until closed.
    Flatten into disc about the size of a yogurt container lid.
    Fry each side on griddle at medium high until lightly browned

    Serving
    Top with Tomato Sauce and Rebollo. Scream, Avocado, Tapatillo and a light Lager optional.

    Enjoy!
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  • Hari 17

    On Wisconsin

    27 April 2019, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C

    Well. We made it. We're now back in Wisconsin. Twelve days and 2500 miles round trip with an almost 90 and almost 60 year old. Almost all of the driving was on small backroads. Our dashboard totem served us well as we passed through state after state in Trump's heartland (seems like a bit of an oxymoron using 'Trump' and 'heart' in the same sentence).

    Our first stop on entering Wisconsin was St Glarus. A small town settled by Swiss farmers which still holds some of the remnants of its founders. Life sized models of cows adorn the place, cheese shops abound, and restaurants serve fondue, raclette, and rosti.

    I fly out in a couple of days, but tonight we're expecting a late April blizzard (is that actually a thing?) bringing between 7 and 10 inches of wet snow. But it all fits with the Wisconsin state motto:

    'Should have been here last week, it was a sunny 70 degrees and nothing was biting!'
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  • Hari 15

    Kent Redux and More Gravestones

    25 April 2019, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    This morning we begin our trek back to LaCrosse. We spent the past few days visiting friends and relatives. We were able to spend an afternoon with Ray and Doris Aeschliman. It seems wherever we go we run into people who know Grace or who remember my dad. Just wandering around downtown we'll be stopped to chat by old friends. What a life they'd built here together.

    We were also able to explore Kent a bit more. Lots if changes there. The town/gown connection is stronger in both spirit and physical planning. A new campus/ city gateway is inviting from all sides. We particularly enjoyed the Wick Poetry Center and garden connected to Kent State University. At the center of the garden us a large bronze sculpture and small amphitheater for doing readings. The sculpture is connected to a watering system and in the summer there are 9 plants hosting a garden in its crooks and crannies. The newly built KSU Center for Architecture and Environmental Design building is quite an impressive structure too.

    On our return drive from Pittsburgh to Kent we stopped by another cemetery in Alliance, Ohio. The Brinker memorials are arranged in a semicircle around a central monument. My great great grandfather August Brinker is interred there. He died at the age of 54 during the great influenza outbreak of 1919. The Brinkers were reportedly seed merchants who shared the business with another family, the VanWarmers. The families also intermarried and shared the central stone, VanWarmer on one side and Brinker on the other. Nit sure about the child sized stone for William Brinker who was born and died in February 1900. He may have been an older brother to my grandfather William G Brinker, or perhaps a cousin.

    Last evening we dined with friends and family at a Lebanese restaurant in Hudson Ohio. Uncle Al and his partner Ginger, Cousin Dave and his wife Jill, and friends Dick Leppo and Kay Hensel. Lots of laughs and good company.

    And now we move west...
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  • Hari 13

    Easter to Pittsburgh and Back Again

    23 April 2019, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Grace and I have had quite a few pleasant days in a row on this trip. She travels remarkably well for a human being who is about reached her ninth decade. She maintains her sense of humor, doesn't tire too easily, and walks better than the average American of any age. There are moments each day when she lets loose with her favorite swear word, but these are most often short lived events.

    Over the past few days we've had some wonderful unexpected experiences. We attended the best Easter service I've ever witnessed at the Kent United Church of Christ, run across some terrifying religious images, eaten Malaysian small plates in downtown Kent, sampled a craft ale that ranks among the best I've ever tasted, and run across a photograph of Nancy and my favorite Belgian canal in a hotel in Pittsburgh.

    In between I've run across a few old friends and taken Grace's sister Lois out to eat twice. I've also learned through my Aunt Lois that Grace was quite a trouble maker. Maybe even enough to rival me in my youth.Older sisters Lois and Bea had their hands full keeping Grace in line. She broke windows, turned a garden hose on her sister's boyfriend, wore makeup, stayed out past curfew, and even chewed bubble gum against her parent's wishes.

    Can't wait to see what the next few days bring before we set out on our return.
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  • Hari 10

    Our Hometowns

    20 April 2019, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Grace and I were born in the same hospital in Alliance, Ohio some 30 years apart. She grew up in Alliance. My grandparents Fred and Irene Stuckey are buried there. They were Church of the Brethren, an early Reformation Anabaptist sect like the Mennonites, Amish, or Hutterites. Some of the Brethren were also Moravians; a pre Reformation Bohemian sect. Needless to say willful obstinance runs in our veins. Fred was born in 1900 and died in 2000 two months after his 100th birthday. We visited one of Grace's oldest friends, Betty Sonday Thorpe, during our swing through Alliance.

    Our next stop was Canton, home of the Pro Football Hall of Fame and Perie Brown, the mother of my oldest friend John Panagos. We headed out to dinner at an amazing restaurant complex called Gervasi Vineyard Bistro. Great ambiance and food. They brought Grace a special treat for her birthday year.

    While we're on the subject of football, I took breakfast at our hotel this morning. The photo below of the two women watching television was taken at breakfast. They were watching and commenting on the run up to the NFL draft. Not a game, not the draft itselft, but a show on the run up. At Breakfast! They really know how to grow sportsfans here in Northeast Ohio.

    While here Grace and I are staying at the Kent State University Inn and Conference Center. It's a joint venture with the University. Quite a nice place and right in the middle of a revitalized towncenter. We spent today visiting friends and neighbors from our old neighborhood. Neighbor Jan Palermo hosted a nice gathering. Afterwards we were able to visit the home where I grew up and where Grace and Bill lived for 50 plus years before their move to Wisconsin. Note the daffodils.

    Yesterday I shared coffee and memories with Lisa Kurtz-Myers, my first real girlfriend. It was great catching up, although a little unsettling as she reminded me how little self awareness I had back in the day. Somewhat demanding, possessive, self-centered and sexist too. Jeez. I kept thinking that if our daughter Sophie had brought someone like that home I might have suggested she look for a new boyfriend. Actually I was a pretty good boyfriend, given the historical context, and Lisa reminded me of those qualities too. Nancy suggested that we invite Lisa and her husband to visit next time they're in California and I hope they take us up on it.

    Tomorrow is Easter. We catch up with friends from the Kent United Church of Christ, then head to Pittsburgh Pennsylvania to visit with Grace's middle sister Lois and her family.
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  • Hari 7

    Mansfield and Olivesburg

    17 April 2019, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Grace and I left Lima and found backroads all of the way to Mansfield, Ohio. We're staying at a State Park Lodge above a reservoir formed with the damming of the Mohican river. Dad and I used to run the Mohican in his homemade fiberglass canoe. Usually he'd invite seven or eight of my scouting friends along. It felt like coming home.

    Along the way we saw more and more flowers blooming. Daffodils, Violets, and Spring Beauties. Dogwood and Cherry trees were also showing. It was lovely. At one point we passed a group of Amish kids on recess playing stickball. At one intersection we ran across a sign reminding us of the temporal nature of things. See the black and white photo below. It's five til midnight and time to get things in order.

    In the evening we were treated to a dinner by cousins Jim, Judy, and Dennis. Lots of reminiscing. It was great catching up with the extended family and their burgeoning offspring. Dennis even has a 'Granddog' that he's been watching while their daughter Erica is off in St.Thomas for Spring Break.

    Today was bittersweet. It marks the second anniversary of my father Bill Brinker's passing. We started off by visiting Grace's oldest sisiter, Bea Henry. The two told stories about their parents and the school principal, Mr. Cobb. It seems their biggest fear was that the principal might call their mom. Bea also forwarded an opinion that the current resident of the White House is crazy. Dangerous territory in this part of Ohio. Grace responded by saying, "You can't say that Bea! You're a Republican!" To which Bea responded, "Well it's true. I wouldn't have brought my kids up to behave like that."

    Mom and I then drove on to nearby Olivesburg and had lunch at the Olivesburg General Store. This store was once owned and managed by our Henry relatives back in the day. It now features homemade cauliflower dough pizza and craft beer. They also have ice cream and good coffee which cover most of my major food groups. Might be time to consider a move. I could ride my bicycle down there in the morning and not have to leave until dark. They also sell a Daisy bb gun with a pink stock that I found adorable.

    After lunch we headed a mile or two up the road to the farm that our family once owned. It is now owned by the Henry clan. I remember innumerable weekends out at the farm with my dad putting in a five acre lake, planting trees and daffodils. My friend John Panagos even spent a couple of months with me painting the barn and outbuildings. What a wonderful feeling it was to be met with clusters of daffodils spreading all around the lake. It was so special to see Grace walking among them, as I'm sure dad had planted them for her. Here's a link to the field of flowers: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NSpr8U71amiXaSuL6

    I may have to check on buying that land back. ;) It was always Pop's dream to put a cottage among the trees looking over the lake.

    Tomorrow we're off to Alliance, Ohio where mom and I were born and where she spent her youth. With aunt Bea's admonishion we carry with us a new hope that our Republican friends and family will see just how far things have gotten away from how we were raised and from where we need to be.
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