Robert is a world famous travel writer with having pieces appear in National Geographic Traveler, The New Yorker and Cottage Life Magazine. Robert when he isn't travelling lives with his family in Edmonton, Alberta. En savoir plus Edmonton, Canada
  • Jour 9

    Bampton to Orton

    10 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Day 6 of the coast to coast trail. We have left the Lake District and are now in the Yorkshire Dales. No more steep climbs like in the lake district but more undulating landscape. It was a good day of hiking covering 18.5 km. I was tired by the end of the day getting in around 3:30 pm.

    This morning I met Debbie and Ginny from Colorado at breakfast who are also doing the C2C trail and we're staying at the Mardale in Bampton. I had met them on the first day. Debbie has gained some notoriety with the hikers on the trail as she broke her wrist on Day 3 of the C2C. She had to have it reduced but has decided to carry on. What a trooper.

    I got off to a slightly later start at 8:45. I was off the official trail but I had figured out how to get back to the C2C trail without having to back track. I walked to Bampton Grange and visited their beautiful church before doing some meadow walking back to the main trail. It took me a good 45 minutes to make it back to the C2C trail.

    Without the Acock brothers to guide me things were more challenging and I had to keep checking my phone. I felt like I was playing Pokemon. Within the first 15 minutes I had become off track. To get back on track, I scaled a small wall beside a locked fence with my phone in one hand. With my boots wet from the dew, I slipped getting off the wall falling on my back and left hip. I was shocked but fortunately didn't hurt myself too badly other than having a sore hip afterwards. This is probably a great way to break one's hip. I was lucky as I landed on some nice moist grass.

    Fortunately the rest of the hike was uneventful. The rest of the hike turned into a mini pilgrimage. I visited the ruins of the Shap Abbey. The monastery had existed for 500 years before it was partially disassembled and destroyed by Henry 8 in the 15 century. These old monastery sites are so beautiful and serene. The monks really had a knack for choosing their sites. After hiking through Shap and crossing over the M6, one of UKs busiest highways, I returned to the solitude of the countryside. My guide book had indicated that past a farm/village of Oddendale in a field there was neolithic stone circle. Like we are talking about a mini Stonehenge. How cool is that. I just had to find it. I wandered around the field for about 15 minutes before I found it and soaked all of the cosmic energy of the universe. I continued onwards after lunching. Other than when I walked through Shap I hadn't seen any other hikers all day. It was a little eerie. Around 1:30 in the afternoon I came across 4 hikers having a break all with their boots off and lying on mats. It was like a yoga retreat. Why hadn't they done this at the stone circles. I stopped and chatted a little bit and they gave me a very wonderful Belgium chocolate. Just as I was getting ready to leave Debbie and Ginny rolled up. They were making a good time. I was just heading to find Robin Hood's grave which was off the trail 300 metres and they agreed to come looking for it. I envisioned a Viking mount but instead it was a pile of stones making a cairn. We continued onto Orton and found the George Hotel which is pretty well the only place to stay in town. Before supper I checked out the town and bought myself some lunch for tomorrow and visited the church. I have been saying a prayer for our friend Kevin who passed away last week at all of the religious sites I visit. Yes I said a prayer for him at the stone circle. After a mediocre curry supper at the George Hotel I walked back up to the church and joined the Orton bell ringers in their Friday night bell ringing session. What a way to end the day.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 8

    Patterdale to Bampton

    9 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I met up with David and Sarah last night. They very kindly asked me to accompany them to the very swank Inn on the Lake which was beside Ullswater Inn for supper. It was fun exchanging stories of our adventures.

    Today was a wonderful day weather wise as there was no rain or fog and there were some sunny bits. Today was going to be the last day in the Lake district so of course it entailed hiking out of one valley across a high ridge called Kidsty Pike and back down into the next valley. Kidsty Pike will be the highest elevation that we reach on this trip at 780 metres. All told I was in for 21.5 km of hiking and a total of 1100 metres of elevation gain.

    I got up early and had breakfast and was on my way by 8:15 am. Fortuitously I met the three Acock brothers also leaving the Inn so I joined up with them. Tim had previously hiked this route on a trip to the Lake District so he knew where we were going. Obviously a good person to follow. It was quite a steep hike out of Patterdale to the Angle tarn before leveling out 2 km before the final push to the top. Dawn the solo Scottish hiker caught up to us on our walk up to the pike. We had last seen her 2 days before on Calf Crag so we were happy to see her again. From the top of the pike, the view was spectacular and I think we all shared a feeling of accomplishment. After a snack and some photos we headed down the steepest part of the C2C trail to Haweswater reservoir. We followed along the shore for a couple of hours undulating up and down on the path which added to the elevation gain for the day. At the end of the reservoir I had to say goodbye to my hiking companions as I was heading off to Bampton 1.5 k off the trail and the Acock brothers and Dawn were heading another 5 km to Shap. They will in the next 2 days hike what I will hike in the next three days. The Acock brothers will end their trip in Kirby Stephan while Dawn will continue on and finish the hike in another 7 days while I will take 9 days. I have really appreciated hiking with the Acock brothers. They were great companions for the first 5 days of the hike. Having someone to hike at the same pace as I hike made the time go by much more quickly and enjoyably. Hopefully I will connect with some other hikers over the next 9 days of the trip.

    I hiked off the trail 1.5 km to Bampton and easily found the Mardale Inn where I will staying tonight. I am in the Annex down from the Inn so I am hoping for a quiet night as after 21.5 k and 1100 metres of elevation gain, I am quite tired.

    I think that I have been very lucky for the last five days with the weather. I have only had rain towards the end of Day 2 when hiking into Rosthwaite but otherwise have had no rain. I think hiking up ridges, crags and pikes in the Lake District if it were raining would have made the last 5 days much more challenging and hardly as much fun.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 7

    Grasmere to Patterdale

    8 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Another day without rain but there was heavy fog. Again being the lake district this was a hike out of the valley of Grasmere to a ridge about 500 metres with options of returning to the next river valley or hiking higher and doing another ridge hike. I was away by 8:30 again. I woke up at 5:30 having gone to bed at 10 pm. Initially I didn't see the brothers but after an hour I could see them in the distance. As I climbed higher out of the valley it became gradually more foggy and the surrounding ridges were engulfed and covered in fog. I passed Katie a hiker camper. She was doing the C2C in 11 days and looked very fit. I passed some rangers doing trail maintenance and they didn't think the fog would clear. By the time I reached Grisdale tarn(small lake), I couldn't see anything beyond a few metres. I met the three brothers sitting by the lake(tarn) debating what to do. They had also reached the conclusion that it would be unsafe to attempt a ridge hike. We all continued down into the Patterdale valley and we realized that the fog on the last part of the ridge above us had cleared. At the rate we were walking we realized that we would be at Patterdale by 1 pm which was too early to end the day. As such we decided to hike a trail from the river valley up to the last part of the ridge. Another 400 metre elevation but it was well worth it to look down onto Ullswater Lake. From the height it was a downhill walk into Patterdale and to the Ullswater Inn where we all got a very poor reception at the reservation desk. The hotel seems very nice other than the officious receptionist. I met Sarah and David from the train ride and they seemed to be enjoying themselves. I am just chilling before I go down for supperEn savoir plus

  • Jour 6

    Rosthwaite to Grasmere

    7 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I think I hit my stride today which is a good thing if you are on a hiking trip. I got up and got going earlier. I had my luggage down for pick up by 8 and had finished breakfast and was away by 8:30. The weather was cloudy and overcast but no rain.Essentially the hike was climbing out of one valley into another. The start of the hike was pretty flat for the first 45 minutes before gaining elevation gradually and then more sharply to very steep. I met a young Canadian woman and her English boyfriend out camping and backpacking for 12 days. They were on part of the C2C but we're not doing the coast to coast. It was fun chatting with her. At one point the trail looked like it was taking us up a small waterfall. The brothers were visible but quite out in front of me which was nice as I could follow them without having to keep checking my phone as it's not always obvious that one is on the trail. The hike took us up 500 metres to Lining Crag. At the top the Forestry service had laid out huge stones to walk on which was easier than walking on the boggy ground. It made for a fast trek across the top of the ridge. I caught up to the brothers a few times but would let them go ahead for several minutes before heading. A Scottish woman Dawn hiking by herself caught up to us but was happy to chat but wanted to walk by herself so would let me go and follow several minutes later.There was an easy route down into the next valley or a more difficult ridge walk which I chose which went up a little higher and kept us at a higher elevation for longer before descending into Grasmere. The author in no uncertain terms recommended this ridge walk and implied you were a wimp if you did not attempt. There were RAF typhoons flying through the valley beneath us which were fun to watch fly by followed by the sound wave. Made it into Grasmere by about 2:45 and said good bye to the brothers before finding the Victorian hotel. Grasmere is the quintessential lake district town with lots of touristy shops and tourists. I went and checked out Wordsworth's Dove cottage where he lived and the cemetery where he was buried. Otherwise I had a quiet evening with supper next door at a Bistro. I am just lying on my bed listening to the sheep and lambs baaing. It is very idyllic.En savoir plus

  • Jour 5

    Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

    6 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    24 miles is a long way to hike especially if one throws in a 450 metre elevation gain towards the end. I had another late start. Mr TPRM thinks I need to get going a little earlier. I got up late 8 and by the time I was packed up and Peter had driven me back to Ennerdale bridge it was almost 10. The hike by Ennerdale Lake was very rocky and very up and down. After the lake it was through the Ennerdale valley on a logging road. That's correct they were logging parts of the valley. Made me feel like home. Didn't meet many other hikers at all as they had all left before me. Very quiet. Got off the trail once as there are many trails and the C2C trail is not well marked. Only lost about 10 minutes. Thank goodness for the Garmin. Invaluable. At the Black sail hostel met two elderly couples having a break. I don't know how they are coping. After the hostel the path had to leave the valley so it went straight up the valley side 400 metres. No switchbacks. It was tiring. Caught up with some other hikers. Went into the next valley which had been mined for slate. By then it was getting on to 4 ish and I still had a few miles to go. It started raining but this is the most wet part of the UK with 5 metres of rain per year. The trail seemed to go on and on. Finally made it to Rosthwaite. Asked an elderly gentleman where the Royal Oak hotel was and he told me that he had lived there for 2 years and had never heard of the Royal Oak. Felt he had to be wrong. Walked 1/2 block turned right and there it was. Incredible. What you don't need to hear at the end of a long day. Met the three brothers at the Royal Oak and joined them for a very swank supper. Met a fellow in the lobby today who was camping and hiking and had managed to turn his ankle today after becoming lost. He was calling it quits after 2 days. Yikes. I will have to be carefulEn savoir plus

  • Jour 4

    St. Bee's to Ennerdale Bridge

    5 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I had a pretty good night at the Fair Ladies Barn. Some people came in late but I had woken up and was just lying in bed. They quieted down quite quickly and I managed to fall back asleep. There was an Elvis impersonator at the Manor Inn that night and the owner told me he was going and would be in no fit shape to make me breakfast in the morning. I headed down to the Manor for supper that night. The dining room was separate from the bar. I had a leisurely supper but when I popped my head into the bar Elvis was between sets and I was too tired to stick around.

    The next day, I got a late start. The only place for breakfast was Hartley's cafe and beach house which didn't open until 9. I didn't get started on the hike until 10. It was very foggy. No rain but the ground was very wet and the trail was muddy and slippery along the coast. No sign of Ireland or the Isle of Man because of the fog. It was slow going. I picked up speed after the St. Bee's headlands walking through lanes, on paths, through fields, alley ways, through farmers yards. All in the fog. There was a large hill called the dent which supposedly commanded wonderful views of the region but it was difficult to even see the trail. I joined up with 3 brothers Andrew, John and Roger who were on their yearly hike and hiked with them from the mid afternoon until Ennerdale Bridge. It was fun having some company. I had a drink with them at the Fox and Hound. I also ate this huge Roast beef supper. I have decided that the English don't do low cholesterol. There were no accommodations in Ennerdale Bridge when I booked things so I am staying with Peter and Nicky at their B and B in Cleator Moor. Nicky is a retired family doctor. They remind me of our friends the Schulz s. They seem to be running this place for entertainment rather than for economic reasons. Peter was even flying the Canadian flag on his flag pole in my honour. They have a menagerie of animals including roosters which I can't help but think will wake me up in the morning.

    I will sign off now as I am quite tired for my first day of hiking.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 3

    St. Bee's

    4 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today I travelled on the train from Newcastle to St. Bee's. Pleasant train trip. I met Sarah and David from London. They are hiking the first part of the C2C and will be staying at the Ullswater Inn where I will be staying on Day 4. They are carrying all of their stuff but not camping. Hopefully I will meet them out on the trail.

    St. Bee's was quite rainy today. Not a heavy rain but constant. I wandered around for an hour and a half. They had a monastery here which is now a church. Very beautiful. The church was open and inside they had the history of the church and region. Interestingly they had dug up some of the graves a few years ago and discovered the preserved body of a 700 year old nobleman who had died while fighting in Lithuania in the 14 century. He was brought back and buried at the church and forgotten until renovations required digging up his grave. Miraculously his body was intact and they performed an autopsy on him. He had a fractured rib and lacerated lung and hemothorax which led them to believe he had died in combat. They even had pictures on the wall illustrating the autopsy. Pathology is everywhere.

    I walked down to the Irish Sea where the trail begins and got a pebble to carry with me to the North Sea. I also dipped my feet into the Irish Sea which is a pre trip tradition. It was raining pretty hard so I walked back to the Fair ladies Barn where I am staying to chill out before dinner. I was pretty wet by the time I made it back to the hotel.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 2

    Planes, trains and automobiles

    3 mai, Angleterre ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I made it to Newcastle. These Transatlantic trips are always tiring. My neighbour Ray gave me a ride to Century Park for me to catch the 747 bus. That part of the trip went well until I directed Ray to drive southbound in the northbound lane of 122 Street to get to the Century Park Transit centre. I think Ray felt much safer after he had dropped me off. How am I ever going to navigate the span of the United Kingdom when I have my problems navigating in Edmonton.

    The KLM flight to Amsterdam was delayed 30 minutes as it arrived late. Then after we boarded it was delayed for a technical reason for another 75 minutes. I was starting to get worried that I would mix my connection flight in Amsterdam. My 3 hour layover in Amsterdam turned into an hour and 15 minutes lay over. My next gate was very close to my arrival gate which was super convenient. I didn't have to clear customs or security. I sensed that some people on my flight would miss their connection. I was happy that I did not check my luggage It may have been wise to have scheduled 2 nights in Newcastle as a buffer against travel delays but I was here a few years ago when I walked Hadrian's Wall. I have had to book all 15 nights of my accommodations in advance for the hike so if I get delayed it could really throw a wrench in things.

    I am staying at the Staybridge suites in Newcastle. I had mailed them my hiking poles about 3 months ago and they arrived a month ago. The staff were eagerly awaiting my arrival and had upgraded me to a full suite room from the standard room I had booked as a treat for coming so far.

    Off by train to St. Bee's tomorrow via Carlisle. I brought Mr Toilet Paper Roll Man with me on the condition that he does not talk about work or the gross room. Mr TPRM lives in our bathroom at work. He was complaining that he doesn't want to get dirty so I put him in a ziplock bag. Now he is complaining the photos in the plastic bag of him don't look good.
    En savoir plus

  • My adventure

    30 avril, Canada ⋅ 🌧 1 °C

    I just wanted to touch base with everyone before my trip to give them some information on what to expect on this years travel blog. I will be walking the Coast to Coast trail in Northern England. The trail was devised in 1973 by Alfred Wainright by cobbling together some existing trails and improvising on the between parts. The trail is 310 km long and passes through three of England's National Parks: The Lake district, the Yorkshire Dales and the North York Moors. The trail starts in a small town called St. Bees on the Irish Sea on the west coast of England and ends in Robin Bay on the North sea on the east side of England. I have booked accommodation in 14 different hotels/ bed and breakfasts/inns and taverns along the way. I will carry a day pack and I will have my luggage moved from one accommodation to the next with a luggage service. I have uploaded a map as a photo. If you click on the map it will expand it and you can see the whole route.

    I will be leaving on the trip on Thursday May 2. I have a direct overnight flight to Amsterdam on KLM and then on Friday I will connect on to Newcastle on Tyne where I will stay for a night before taking a 3 hour train trip to St. Bees on the Irish Sea. Hopefully I won't be too jet lagged and travel exhausted by the time I arrive.

    I have named the blog after a poem by the English poet William Wordsworth (1770-1850) entitled " I wondered lonely as a cloud". Wordsworth lived in the Lake District and hopefully I will be able to visit his house which is now a museum. This was one of my father's favourite poems which he could recite by memory. The poem is as follows:

    I wandered lonely as a cloud
    That floats on high o'er vales and hills,
    When all at once I saw a crowd,
    A host, of golden daffodils;
    Beside the lake, beneath the trees,
    Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

    Continuous as the stars that shine
    And twinkle on the milky way,
    They stretched in never-ending line
    Along the margin of a bay:
    Ten thousand saw I at a glance,
    Tossing their heads in sprightly dance.

    The waves beside them danced; but they
    Out-did the sparkling waves in glee:
    A poet could not but be gay,
    In such a jocund company:
    I gazed—and gazed—but little thought
    What wealth the show to me had brought:

    For oft, when on my couch I lie
    In vacant or in pensive mood,
    They flash upon that inward eye
    Which is the bliss of solitude;
    And then my heart with pleasure fills,
    And dances with the daffodils.

    If you enjoy the blog please leave a comment as I find if people are leaving comments it gives me more inspiration to write about my travels. I plan on posting a blog either daily or every other day so please keep checking into th blog. Finding penguins does not send out a link every time I post a blog. As the English like to say "Cheerio until my next blog"
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  • Jour 21

    The treasury and the pathology museum

    25 août 2023, Autriche ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today was our last full day for travel adventures. I had bought a combined ticket for the Kunthistorisches Museum and the treasury. It was only 12 Euros extra and the girls had never been to a treasury museum. A treasury museum houses the jewels, crowns and regalia of the monarchy. I have viewed some treasuries of other countries before and could have done without but I thought it would be good for the girls. Well it turned out that the girls didn't want to go. They wanted to sleep in and relax. They have developed travel fatigue. I guess there are only so many churches and museums one can take a 16 year old to. Cheryl and I decided to go regardless. As billed there were lots of crowns, jewels and regalia. They jewels are all so incredibly large that they look fake. Wanting to squeeze as much out of the last day Cheryl and I headed off to the University of Vienna to the pathology museum. There was also a display dedicated to the Viennese pathologist Rokitansky. That is correct I said pathology. Up until the 1960s, there was a tradition in many pathology departments to maintain pathology museums. These museums contained either formalin fixed surgical or autopsy specimens displayed in glass containers or wax creations of disease processes. There were many great examples of advanced tumors, infectious diseases and congenital abnormalities all grouped according to disease processes. I had no idea what smallpox looked like. Cheryl really enjoyed it as well. Interestingly U of A doesn't have a pathology museum but they do have the Larry Jewell pathology room that contains a few examples of pathology specimens. By about 2 pm we were all pathologized out and it was about 36 degrees Celsius so we headed to a McDonald's cafe for some Viennese coffee. McDonald's seems to have become our favorite Viennese coffeeshop plus it is air conditioned.En savoir plus

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