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  • Day 27

    APOPO Hero Rats

    March 8 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We started our last day in Siem Reap learning more about the serious landmine situation in Cambodia and the broader world. I was shocked at the vast amount of territory that exists today that is still deemed hazardous from uncleared landmines and other unexploded devices. Today Cambodia has an estimated 4-6M land mines and other unexploded ordinances caused by over three decades of civil war and war with Vietnam.
    APOPO is a non-profit known for its use of African giant pouched rats, nicknamed "hero rats," in detecting landmines and tuberculosis. There are plenty of rats in Cambodia, and they are a stable of the diet here. However, their average lifespan is only 5 years old. These African rats are sourced and trained in Zimbabwe and live up to 9 to 10 years old. They are a better candidate for this job, as it takes 9 to 12 months to train them. They also train dogs, German Shepherds and Belgian Malinois primarily, but the rats are more lightweight and the primary focus of this project.

    The story of APOPO began when Bart Weetjens, co-founder of the organization, developed a special relationship for the rodents he kept as childhood pets in Belgium. Years later, this relationship would yield more than just friendship: it would offer the opportunity to help change a world where landmines pose a threat to life and progress in 60 countries and where tuberculosis affects millions of lives across the world every year. APOPO was officially established as a Belgian NGO in 1997.

    These hero rats are highly trained to detect the scent of explosives. They are lightweight and able to safely traverse minefields without triggering the mines. Under the guidance of APOPO's expert trainers, the rats learn to scratch at the ground once they detect the presence of explosives, indicating to their human handlers where the mines are located. The handlers then work to safely deactivate or remove the mines.

    Hundreds of thousands of square meters of land have been made safe for local communities, allowing them to farm, build infrastructure, and live without fear. This has promoted economic growth and improved living conditions for the affected populations.

    Furthermore, APOPO's hero rats are also utilized in the detection of tuberculosis. TB is a significant global health issue, especially in resource-limited settings. The rats are trained to sniff sputum samples provided by clinics. They can identify the distinctive scent associated with TB, enabling rapid and accurate screening. This process is both cost-effective and faster than traditional laboratory methods, aiding in TB control efforts.

    The success of the APOPO hero rat program in Cambodia has resulted in its expansion to other countries facing similar challenges. Today, APOPO operates in countries such as Angola, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Colombia, and the most recent conflict in Ukraine. By leveraging the rat's olfactory capabilities, APOPO continues to save lives, support local communities, and contribute to a safer and healthier world.
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  • Day 26

    Pub Street!

    March 7 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Our last night in Siem Reap, We grabbed a remork and headed out to Pub Street. The main drag was lit up, and we saw a massive throng of locals that were either dancing or working out in front of blasting music. There was also gym equipment right on the sidewalk and every single piece was being used. Tourism is still down 40% from COVID and after dropping us off, our drivers insisted they would wait for us to no matter how long it would take after we gave him a $2 tip on a $3 ride. Lively entertainment area that was all lit up and festive, we had plenty of options for live music, massage, food, and libations. We stopped at the $3 fish massage where the fish cleaned our feet while we had free beer. Added bonus was the live traditional Cambodian music right next to us.

    We then walked the short strip, selected a place that had a good vibe, and enjoyed cocktails and dinner while getting to know our waiter. He travels quite the distance to come into work and is in his first year of university where he's learning C++ coding. It is a challenge, because the written language here is Sanskrit. The translated educational materials in this country are limited.
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  • Day 26

    Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple

    March 7 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    After shower number two of three for the day, we went out to explore Angkor Thom. This complex was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer Empire, established by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. Angkor Thom, which means "Great City" in Khmer, served as the political, administrative, and spiritual center of the empire.

    The centerpiece of this UNESCO site is the Bayon Temple, renowned for its distinctive stone faces and intricate carvings. It was constructed around the same time as Angkor Thom and is considered one of the most significant and enigmatic architectural achievements of the Khmer civilization.

    The Bayon Temple represents the mountain that the Khmer people believed to be the center of the universe. It was dedicated to the Buddhist deity Avalokiteshvara and also served as a state temple for King Jayavarman VII. The temple's most striking feature is its numerous large stone faces, believed to depict either the king himself or a combination of his own image with that of Avalokiteshvara.

    The faces of Bayon reflect the Khmer belief in a divine ruler who embodies the qualities of a deity, thus ensuring the prosperity and protection of the empire. The serene expressions and enigmatic smiles of the faces are often interpreted as embodying compassion, wisdom, and a symbol of the king's divine power.

    Our guide spent a good portion of the time interpreting the intricate bas-reliefs that depict historical events, religious ceremonies, daily life scenes, and mythological stories. These carvings provide insight into Khmer society, culture, and religious beliefs during that era.

    We ended the group portion of the day with a sunset toast outside of Angkor Wat. We had a beverage and a selection of Cambodian snacks. There was dried python, crocodile, and water buffalo, in addition to my new favorite, which is a Spanish peanut mix with dried kefir lime leaves and chilies. Also, had a sticky rice, palm sugar, and mung bean mixture that's stuffed into a bamboo shoot that you have to peel. It was a nice cap to the day, as a gathering of monks paraded through one of the entrances and down the walkway.
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  • Day 26

    Floating Village

    March 7 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We boated around a floating community out on the largest freshwater lake in southeast Asia. The Tonle Sap Lake is one of the most productive inland fisheries in the world, connected to the Mekong River through the 100 km long Tonle Sap River. We are visiting during the dry season, so it is estimated at 2000 square miles in surface area today, compared to 5000 during monsoon season. Floating houseboats everywhere, with locals using small wooden boats with long pole propellers to commute back and forth. They even had a floating garden where they grow vegetables to supplement all the fish that they eat.

    We prayed to the Buddha that we were not having lunch out in the village, as we are all pretty unsettled by the amount of pollution in these waters that are being fished for consumption. Our prayers were answered.
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  • Day 26

    Fisherman visit

    March 7 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Had a discussion with a fisherman and his wife and three kids. He lives on a houseboat with a connecting barge to extend his living area. He earns $30 every 2 to 3 days, starting the day at 2am. His home was neat and tidy, and the kids all were running around playing in the adjoining houseboat and seemed happy. The entire time we were there the lady next door was doing laundry while the husband was sleeping in a hammock, presumably after a hard day of fishing. Driving and then walking up to the boat, the conditions are challenging.Read more

  • Day 25

    Ta Prohm Temple

    March 6 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    Best temple ever, will need two entries for this one. This is a temple that the jungle has overtaken the structures and it is something to see.

    Background research: Ta Prohm is another significant temple within the Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap, Cambodia. It was built in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, the same ruler who constructed Angkor Thom and the Bayon Temple. Ta Prohm is renowned for its unique and captivating atmosphere, featuring a harmonious blend of ancient temple ruins intertwined with enormous trees with their roots intertwined through the stone structures.

    The historical and cultural importance of Ta Prohm lies in its ability to showcase the untamed forces of nature, where the power of nature and the centuries-old structures coexist in a captivating and mesmerizing way. The temple has been left largely in its original state, with minimal conservation efforts undertaken to preserve the integrity of the site. The sprawling tree roots, draped over walls and entangled with carved stones, give Ta Prohm a mystical and romantic allure, making it one of the most photographed and popular temples in the Angkor complex.

    The preservation approach of Ta Prohm reveals the ongoing battle between the forces of nature and human craftsmanship. It showcases the passage of time and the inevitability of decay, highlighting the impermanence of human achievements. The temple stands as a reminder of the transient nature of civilizations and how nature ultimately reclaims its dominance.

    In terms of its connection to present-day movie sets, Ta Prohm gained global recognition after it was featured in the 2001 Hollywood blockbuster film "Tomb Raider," starring Angelina Jolie as the adventurous archaeologist Lara Croft. The temple's evocative and mystical atmosphere perfectly suited the film's storyline, and its appearance in such a popular movie further elevated its international reputation.

    Ever since its appearance in "Tomb Raider," Ta Prohm has become a sought-after destination for filmmakers and travelers alike. Its enchanting ambiance and unique aesthetics continue to attract film crews who seek to capture the temple's otherworldly beauty. The temple has since been featured in numerous documentaries, travel shows, and even more movies, cementing its place as a cinematic icon.

    Overall, Ta Prohm's cultural significance lies in its ability to showcase the relationship between mankind and nature, while also attracting visitors with its ethereal beauty and providing a glimpse into the grandeur of the ancient Khmer Empire.
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  • Day 25

    Home hosted lunch

    March 6 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C

    After touring Angkor Wat, we stayed within the temple grounds and had a home hosted lunch with Sophie. She is quite the entrepreneur, as she shared her story of selling items at temples as a young girl, graduating up to buying her first retail stall for $100. She sold it for $300 a few years later and they now go for $1,000. She confirmed that the stalls that are all packed together on Pub Street are owned by a few people who then lease out space to individual sellers. It is the dry season here, and her corn crop is not doing very well. She grows corn and rice just for her family, and brings income in from hosting lunches like today and selling other wares to tourists. She also breeds the white Brahma that we have seen that look super skinny, but again it's the dry season. There's not much for them to eat right now so she brings in hay, just like we do in the states during the winter in the Midwest.

    Her maiden aunts made lunch and it was yummy. Turmeric chicken with green beans, sauteed vegetables with rice, chicken veg soup, beef stir fry, and fish with veg. Then she gave us a demonstration of a local dessert and we got to practice. She shaped a banana leaf like a cute little cup after putting a little ball of palm sugar inside of stretched out sticky rice rolled into a bigger ball which was then boiled. Grated fresh coconut on top, very nice treat for dessert.
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  • Day 25

    Angkor Wat

    March 6 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Here we go, today is a big day with high heat and humidity and two temple visits. Angkor Wat is the star of the Cambodian part of the trip, a renowned temple complex that was built during the Khmer Empire's peak in the 12th century. Constructed by King Suryavarman II as a state temple and capital city, the complex was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, reflecting the religious beliefs of the ruling Khmer Empire at the time. However, it eventually transformed into a Buddhist temple in the 14th century, which remains its primary function today.

    160 hectares, featuring intricate carvings, detailed bas-reliefs, and massive temple towers. These structures reflect the Khmer's devotion to symmetry, symbolism, and spirituality. Angkor Wat became partially abandoned following the decline of the Khmer Empire, falling into disrepair and eventually becoming enveloped by dense jungle. It wasn't until the 19th century that the temple complex was "rediscovered" by Western explorers, drawing global attention to its unique historical and cultural value.

    Today, Angkor Wat is a UNESCO World Heritage site, serving as a powerful reminder of the ancient Khmer Empire's grandeur, its religious heritage, and its lasting impact on Cambodian culture. Some of us climbed to the third floor, and the views were pretty magnificent. Really appreciated the intricate carving and laborious work that required elephants to haul materials.
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  • Day 24

    Apsara Dance

    March 5 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    A lot of people were fading in the heat, so our crew took a short detour to the spa for a break in the action. Then we went out for dinner and a show, taking a tuk tuk and a lot of trust out of the main central area to a beautiful restaurant. Apsaras' dance dates back to the 7th century, part of the Khmer culture with roots in both Hindu and Buddhist mythologies. UNESCO recognized this dance in 2003 as a masterpiece of oral and intangible heritage of humanity.

    Each dance represented a different tale and we enjoyed following along as they did a great job demonstrating each story without words.
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