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Retired, and embracing travel! Read more Perth, Australia
  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 19

    Conclusion.

    April 9 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Conclusion

    An adventuresome trip, most enjoyable indeed. A very pleasant and sociable sail up the coast to Geraldton in very good offshore conditions, albeit the wind dropped right out for the latter part.
    A rather challenging passage across from Geraldton to Pelsaert Island, with some interesting navigation.

    A little frustrating the first two days moored up with the strong E winds being very persistent.

    Very satisfying catching the Baldchin Groper, very chuffed.

    Then some good time connections with Scott and his mates. Especially the seafood fiesta! A good learning curve for any future forays up there.

    A leisurely passage back to Pt Denison, with a couple of enjoyable days there before driving back. I find PD-Dongara a very easy going place, with excellent facilities and an easy, friendly vibe.

    A huge thanks to Lesley and Tony for having me along. Special times indeed.

    Footnote:
    The Fremantle Sailing Club’s publication Western Australia Cruising Guide is a fabulous guide to sailing the whole of the WA coast. The section on The Abrolhos Islands is very informative. Fabulous info resource, 400+ pages. It is updated every few years and is available as a purchasable PDF from the club.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 18

    Pt Denison - North Cottesloe.

    April 8 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    April 8, Monday.

    Pt Denison - N Cottesloe.

    A leisurely coffee and breakfast, followed by a swim. Steve arrived mid morning and we removed the old main and fitted the replacement. Les prepared some tuna,mayo and salad rolls, which we washed down with a crisp old beer. I hit the road in Tony’s ute just after 1pm and after an easy and uneventful 350 km trip arrived back at CottShack.Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 17

    Pt Denison. Layday #2.

    April 7 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    April 7, Sunday.

    Pt Denison

    Another leisurely start to the day. I had a relatively late get-up at 7:15 after a bit of
    a lie in listening to Billy Connolly’s “Rambling Man”, his semi-biographical.

    After breakfast Les and I went for a walk to the south along the beach. On the south side of town there is vehicular access to the beach. It's quite compact and can easily accommodate two-wheel drive vehicles. There were a lot of cars parked up over a kilometre or so stretch of beach, mainly 4WDs. It was school holidays, so predominantly family groups. Great to see so many kids with their families having a great time. Some small waves and crystal clear and relatively warm water. Sunny and about 30 degrees, as has been most of the time we have been travelling. Pretty magic.

    After a round-trip walk of about 5 Km, it was time for a swim to cool off. In the afternoon a couple from Albury-Wodonga berthed up adjacent to us in a 36ft catamaran. They had bought it and collected it about 2 months prior at Dunsborough. They are planning on going up the WA coast and back taking about 10 months to do so. Had a pretty lengthy chat with them about the boat and their plans.

    Went to the Southerly pub again for dinner. We shared a dozen oysters and for main course Les had a linguine mushroom and chicken pasta and Tony and I had roast lamb. Excellent meals they were too.

    We were waiting for Tony’s mate Steve to drive up on Monday. Importantly he was bring up a spare (replacement) main sail. He will then sail back with them to Freo and I will drive back to N Cott.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 16

    Port Denison. Layday

    April 6 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    April 6, Saturday.

    Pt Denison

    Cruisey Saturday. After breakfast, mid morning, Les and I walked up to Dongarra, approximately 4kms away. Very pleasant walk initially along the beach and past some silhouette “cutout” statues commemorating locals who lost their lives in various war campaigns. The track then went past a bird sanctuaty and then thru a bush trail for approximately 2 Km along aside the southern bank of the Irwin River before emerging just before the main street of Dongarra.

    We did a bit of of a provisions restock at IGA, and then went to the local Saturday market. I bought a door mat made out of flotsam rope that a women found washed up on the beach. All her articles were from rope similarly sourced, some very intricate. Other purchase was a cheese board with coloured resin on one end, again local artisan made.

    On our return we stopped off at Poppies under the big Morton Bay fig tree, and had an iced coffee and savoury muffin. On our return we took a nature trail on the northern side of the river, down to the mouth and along the beach. The estuary was sanded up as the river won't break thru till the winter rains. So a straight thru walk across. Approximately a 2km walk from there along the beach to the marina. Very pleasant indeed.

    I bought some oysters and snapper from the seafood supply shop by the jetty.

    We had sundowners on the back of the boat with a crisp chardonnay and the oysters. Magic sunset to boot.

    Lesley then pan-fried the snapper and served it with a potato salad along with a lettuce, avocado and tomato salad. Seriously delicious!

    Out with the dominos game and a couple of port postprandials to complete the evening.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 15

    Pelsaert Island -Pt Denison.

    April 5 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    April 5, Friday.
    0615 - 1830. Pelsaert Island - Pt Denison. 125km.

    Up at 5:30 and Les got the obligatory morning wake up coffee on.

    Off the mooring at 6 am as planned. A light NE blowing but as we were heading initially generally in a NE and N direction we motored as opposed to sailing. Very tight navigating thru the various reefs. Had a minor encounter with the bottom, scuffing the keel on the reef.

    Once clear of the Pelsaert Island group it was sails up and steering a SE course director to Pt Denison. A light NE prevailed, so a broad reach, but the wind only at about 8-10 kts. Wind dropped right out, so we motored from about 11 till 2 pm. Then a light SW sea breeze eventuated. Back to sailing, albeit somewhat slower than motoring. Sea breeze dropped out at about 4:30, so back to the “Iron Mizzen” (the engine).
    Motored into Pt Denison in a near glass off just on sunset. Very colourful sunset too. A relatively easy passage, albeit a bit over 12 hours. And the sail repair had held up well.

    Moored up at the supply jetty, had a quick shower then off to Southerleys, the nearby pub. Very busy Friday night with a not too bad live blues band. An hour and a quarter wait for dinner, but well worth it. A big feed of snapper? with chips and salad, which all 3 of us chose.

    No problem getting to sleep about 8:30 after a port nightcap.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 14

    Pelsaert Island. Penultimate day.

    April 4 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Apr 4, Thursday

    Pelsaert Island.

    BF: Muesli, yoghurt and fruit
    Lunch: Sausages in wraps with cabbage, carrot and fried noodle salad
    Dinner: Spaghetti Bol and pasta

    My beginner’s luck with the fishing had run out. Not a bite from three sessions over the stern.

    Tony and I did a repair job on a tear in the mainsail. A fall back to days in Sea Scouts, about 55 years prior, recalling some sail stitching techniques, using needle, thread and a sailmakers palm . Plus liberal strips of gaffa tape. Interesting to see how it stands up to the rigours of the passage back to the mainland. Tony’s mate Steve is hopefully bringing another main up from Perth.

    An obligatory LLD - Little Lie Down after lunch then Les and I Zodiaced to the beach to have a swim as the several 3m+ tiger sharks we had seen off the stern of the boat were somewhat off putting for a back of boat swim. Chatted to the Bunbury Boys, said our thank yous and au revours, as they were heading home the next day.

    We got the marine forecast update from Geraldton Sea Rescue and decided to do likewise, planning on heading straight for Port Denison. Based on the forecast, probably a 10 -12 hour trip. So planned on a 6 am departure.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    1
    Day 13

    Pelsaert Island. Seafood fiesta day!

    April 3 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    April 3, Wednesday.
    Pelsaert Island.

    First day of acceptable wind, about 10-12kts SE.
    All enthused about fishing, but only managed a small snapper.
    Changed over the jib sail, as we had shredded the one coming over.
    Then got the Zodiac afloat and sorted. Les and I went ashore, about 200-300m away.
    Scott from Bunbury and his son and two mates ( who we had met at the marina in Geraldton) were stern into the beach in Brett’s 10m mono-cat. Monohul forward, diverging to a cat hull amidships and to the stern. Retractable keel allows them to stern up right onto the beach. Hydraulically droppable mast and trailerable, it’s a very practical setup. Spacious down below. Scott calls it his floating caravan. 10 m long.
    Had a long chat to Scott on all things boating and Abrolhos. He’s been coming here for 40 years.
    Les and I went for a walk along the beach on the western side of the island It’s only about a 100m wide here. Entirely consists of old dead broken and bleached coral. We returned along the inshore side which is limestone albeit only a metre or so above sea level, tops. I squatted down to check out some oysters when a sea lion popped up in front of my face! I actually touched him on the nose. Very inquisitive, he and his mate hung around for a few minutes.
    Back to Triple X , the mono-cat, and the boys had come back from a morning’s hunting. 8 crays, grabbed by hand wading around the reef about 3nm away and a Spotted Cod that Craig had speared. Promptly filleted, he gave us the wings and we had another superb super fresh fish lunch.
    Les and I motored back to the XXX Electra33 in the latter afternoon and joined the boys for a seafood feast. Some crayfish cocktail “nibbles” with a couple of different sauces. Then a sit down dinner. Accompanied by plenty of wash down fluids.
    We dined on baked snapper, crayfish mornay, haggis as a side, (as ship’s cook Neil is a Scotsman), mashed potatoes with beans, potato salad and pasta salad, plus a lettuce and avocado salad.
    Our contribution was the salads! Awesome meal, and the Boys from Bunbury were great company. Scott Talbot, his son Anthony and two mates, Neil and Craig. Motored back in the Zodiac to the good ship Haywire accompanied by a stunning sunset. A rather memorable evening indeed.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    1
    Day 12

    Pelsaert Island. Big fish day!

    April 2 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    2 April, Tuesday.
    Pelsaert Island.

    BF: Toast
    Lunch: Groper and salad
    Dinner: Groper and salad!

     Wind eased a bit. Caught a very decent sized Baldchin Groper off the back of the boat. Probably about 5 - 6 kg. Very chuffed. Got him aboard just in time. Another 3-5 seconds and a 2m tiger shark would have had him.
    Filleted him and got 4 excellent fillets. Threw the skeleton overboard, before it had sunk 3 large tiger sharks were at the stern of the boat. Big one probably 3+m. Judicious swimming off the boat from hereon in !
    Two meals from the Groper. Magic eating, lunch and dinner. Washed down with a good vino of course. One of the nicest fishes I have tasted.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 11

    Pelsaert Island.

    April 1 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    1 April, Monday.
    Pelsaert Island.

    BF: Muesli, yoghurt with preserved fruit
    Lunch: Salad and beef sandwiches
    Dinner: Chicken Curry (RTE)

    Nothing day. 20-25kts SE still blowing despite the forecast not indicating so. Water too choppy for the Zodiac.
    Fishing was unsuccessful, only two under size Coral Trout. They went back.

    Mainly chilled for the day. Reading the weekend newspapers, and listening to podcasts and a good audio book, in my case.    Read more

  • TravelerTHE ABROLHOS - A HAYWIRE TRIP
    Day 10

    Geraldton - Guano Jetty, Pelsaert Island

    March 31 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    31 March, Sunday.
    0015 - 0845. Geraldton - Guano Jetty, Pelsaert. 95km

    BF: Hot X buns
    Lunch: Same, tinned ham
    Dinner: Steak (Dirty Good Food) and veggies.

    The big adventure day!

    We decided on a midnight start as it is a 50nm passage and we were advised to aim to get there by early afternoon or better, as there is then a better chance of getting a mooring. Very substantial moorings are provided by the Dept of Transport, capable of securing 25m boats. But they are few and far between, with six in the S section of the Pelsaert group. Anchoring is less desirable as the water is deepish with a varying bottom. We were advised that the SE area of the Pelsaert group is preferable for the reasons of good fishing, plentiful crays and relatively close proximity to Geraldton.

    The forecast was for 15-20 kt SE winds, which was very favourable for the sailover.

    We cleared the Geraldton shoreline and the wind continued to pick up. 20 kts became 25 to 30 kts, with shifting gusts in excess of 35 kts. The seas continued to rise, the further offshore we went. A hairy night’s passage indeed. Intimidating gusting and shifting winds and seas. In the big gusts the yacht somewhat uncontrollably headed up into the wind. The wind shredded the jib. I spent 6 hours on the helm. Kept me from feeling seasick!

    We arrived at the passage entry point at about 6:15 just on dawn. We needed the daylight to help navigate the somewhat complex and at times narrow passage towards Guano Jetty mooring area. Motored in slowly. The seas had abatted as we were now in the protection of the islands, but the wind was still howling. Luckily there were 2 or 3 moorings available and we were all secured by just before 9am. All very relieved to be there!
    A breakfast of hot cross buns and coffee, followed by a sandwich lunch. Then it was time for an afternoon recovery sleep.

    Lesley cooked a great dinner of steak and veggies. Sure went down well. Beer, vino and port assisted!

    Needless to say, turned in for an early night.    Read more

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