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Camino Frances
  • Dean Bell
10月 2019

Camino Frances

My Camino de Santiago journey from St-Jean Pied-de-Port along the Camino Frances route (Way of St James) もっと詳しく
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  • 旅行の開始
    2019年10月3日
    Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Ready to go!
    Kept it to around 7.5kg (pack included)Contains everything I need

    Camino - Here I Come!

    2019年10月2日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Well the day has finally come. After years of aspiring to walk the Camino de Santiago Way of St James, I fly out of Perth bound for St-Jean Pied-de-Port France (via Doha, Paris and Bayonne).

    Whilst the Camino is traditionally a pilgrimage, people these days do it for any number of reasons. It can relate to dealing with a significant loss, a new chapter to life, a personal challenge to be achieved, or just to see the Spanish countryside. For this reason I refer to myself and others as 'pilgrims' without any religious overtones.

    Despite the best of planning, I've left without my Debit Card, but fortunately have my Credit Card, which should allow me to access my funds while away.

    Fingers crossed that this little glitch will be a rare occurrence over the next 3 weeks.

    Thanks to my beautiful Michelle for her support tonight to get me to the airport with time to spare, and keeping my nerves calm.    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者

    Perth to Bayonne

    2019年10月4日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After a long 30 hours of flights (Perth-Doha-Paris-Biarritz), I've finally made it to the stage of my journey where I can slow down and adjust to my new surroundings.

    I spent last night at the Hôtel Côte Basque in Bayonne, a nice comfortable little hotel directly across the road from the Gare de Bayonne, where I'll take the train later today to St-Jean Pied-de-Port, where my Camino will start.

    From my table by the window, I have a clear view of the Rue Maubec, and have already seen a number of people carrying backpacks and walking poles in the direction of Gare de Bayonne, who I presume are also making their way to St-Jean. It has me thinking of the variety of personalities I am likely to meet over the next few weeks.

    The hotel breakfast was just what I needed, and I feel rejuvenated and looking forward to a few hours of enjoying the sights of Bayonne. The coffee is quite strong, so taking my chances with a second cup.

    The morning talkback radio is playing in the background, and even though I don't understand a word of it, I find it calming, helping me to appreciate where I am and of the journey ahead of me.    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Bayonne
    BayonneBayonne from the Train en-route to St-JeanSt-Jean Pied-de-Port Train StationSt-Jean Pied-de-Port Pilgrim MonumentPilgrims OfficeMy First StampThe Scenic St-Jean Pied-de-PortThe incredible view of St-JeanShopping in St-Jean

    Arrival into St-Jean

    2019年10月4日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Having discovered that the weather was one of my biggest barriers to exploring Bayonne this morning, I decided to head back to my hotel and ensure that everything was in readiness for the train ride to St-Jean.

    Despite the rain, I found myself overcome with the reality of where I was, and felt a surge of emotion at the thought that at 50 years of age I'd only just made it to Europe. It was an incredible feeling, and motivated me to embrace everything that this trip has to offer.

    The one-hour train ride to St-Jean was an absolute pleasure, taking in the sights of the French countryside. Centuries-old buildings, of the kind I've ever only seen in movies, just added to the magic.

    First thing first, a visit to the Pilgrims Office to get my official Pilgrim Passport, and its first stamp.

    St-Jean is even more beautiful than I could have imagined. Though I've seen countless pictures of it before, walking along the Citadelle revealed no shortage of postcard views, and a preview of the Pyrenees - which will be my physical and mental challenge as I take the 27km walk to Roncesvalles tomorrow.

    Pascal, the manager of tonight's albergue (Gîte Bidean) is quite a lively and eccentric character, and is at ease with welcoming his guests.

    I started to meet some fellow pilgrims this afternoon, and will write more about them if they become part of my daily walks.

    Looking forward to my first pilgrim dinner tonight, and an early night to bed.    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Breakfast at Gîte BIDEAN St-Jean
    Views from St-Jean to OrrisonThe ascent beckonsView towards St-Jean near OrrisonWalking through cloudsRefuge OrrisonThe Pyrenees SummitDescent Was Quite SurrealRoncesvalles AlbergueDinner in Roncesvalles

    St-Jean to Roncesvalles - The Pyrenees

    2019年10月5日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today marked the official start of my Camino walk, with the 25.6km journey from St-Jean Pied-de-Port, taking the Napoleon Route across the Pyrenees.

    I'd been mentally and physically preparing myself for this day for a long time, but nothing had prepared me for exactly what this would throw at me. The ascent up the mountains was every bit as challenging as I'd expected, but I found myself at times wondering whether I'd be able to make it through without causing injury to myself.

    My fellow pilgrims had no idea about the strength that they gave me as we exchanged short introductions, heard each others stories, or acknowledged language barriers. The common goal and language that we shared was the road travelled, and regular wishes of 'Buen Camino' reassured us that we were in the company of friends.

    To say that the scenery was astounding (or any other such adjective) couldn't come close to the reality of today's experience. Though good weather had been forecast for today, we walked the entire morning through a cool mist that left a gentle film of condensation over ourselves, which provided a pleasant contrast to the sweat produced by the body as a protest to the physical demands to push forward.

    Shortly after midday I found myself nearing the pinnacle of the Pyrenees, which provided the most amazing vistas of valleys, farms and low-level cloud that I now stood above. The regular sounds of bells worn by cows and horses was calming, and added to the magnificence around me.

    The gentle descent into Roncesvalles was a welcome relief as I struck up a conversation with a fellow Aussie who had decided to give himself 6 months to explore Europe after many years of hard work. It made me think of how we often delay living our own lives, waiting instead for an arbitrary date that society tells us that it is suitable to stop working.

    I now look forward to a fun night meeting more fellow pilgrims over dinner before a restful night at the modernised 12th Century Roncesvalles Monastery which acts as a 183 bed albergue for today's pilgrims.

    Edit: A pilgrims dinner enjoyed with Marcos (Brazil/USA), Pauline (Denmark), and Els (Holland).

    Thought for the day: We each walk our own path and pace. Though this may not bring us to the same place, or at the same time, for a time we meet, providing an opportunity for humanity to shine.

    Steps: 38,900
    Distance: 25.6km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 25.6km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    1Only 790km to go!
    Burguete CafeA pilgrims breakfastBurgueteTime for a restThe welcome waymarkerThe welcome sight of LarrasoañaLarrasoaña Municipal AlbergueSoaking up the surroundings

    Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña

    2019年10月6日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Perhaps there's something about the cool mountain air, and the collective energy of close to 200 pilgrims sharing a 12th Century monastery for the night, but I awoke refreshed at 5am this morning and knew that there would be no more sleep. Then again, perhaps it might have also been the regular sounds of people shifting in their sleep, and of bodily gases being expelled. Either way, I was ready to get moving.

    By 6am I was packed and itching to hit the road. Unfortunately, at this time of year sunrise in this part of the world is after 8am, meaning there would be no daylight to guide my way before 7.30am. As I stood out the front of the Roncesvalles monastery I made out a couple of South Koreans with head lamps, clearly better prepared than me to make an early morning start. A quick introduction was all that was necessary to justify joining them for the first hour of the day, grateful for the light as well as the company.

    Within a half hour we had reached the town of Burguete, where a small cafe provided access to a cappuccino and ham and egg baguette for €3.50. We said our farewell as the morning light welcomed me back to the road. Today's walk was a pleasure in comparison to yesterdays Pyrenees crossing, mostly downhill and again offering amazing scenery.

    Whilst yesterday appeared to be a day for walkers to set their own pace over the mountains, with only occasional time made to talk with each other, it felt today that we were openly seeking company, and the opportunity to form small groups.

    My companions today were: Ronan (Brazil), Jaemin (South Korea), Els (Netherlands), Inga (Germany), and Martin & Jenny (Germany).

    The Camino waymarkers are a constant comfort to assure us that we're staying on the right path, and the absence of rain with a cooler day pushed a few of us further past our planned destination of Zubiri, deciding instead to spend the night at the Larrasoaña municipal albergue. At €8 for the night the price is reasonable for the basic facilities, though I wonder what added value there would have been paying €12 at the San Nicolas albergue a couple of hundred metres away.

    The restaurant provided an excellent hamburger, generous glass of Navarre region red wine, and cappuccino - all for only €9.50. It felt a little unusual having dinner at 4pm, but after another 27km day, I don't see myself staying up late.

    I will reach Pamplona tomorrow before midday, and as this will only involve a 15km walk, this could provide an opportunity to have a good look around, and let the body rest a little.

    Steps: 43,833
    Distance: 27.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 52.7km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Bridge into Villava
    Gotta have at least one photo like this!Spanish BreakfastSt Mary's Cathedral PamplonaRest at St Mary's Cathedral PamplonaStreets of PamplonaMonument to Running of the BullsPamplona CitadelAlbergue de Maribel Roncal Cizur MenorAlbergue de Maribel Roncal Cizur Menor

    Larrasoaña to Cizur Menor

    2019年10月7日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Aided by an uncomfortable bed at the Larrasoaña municipal albergue, multiple snoring room mates, stuffy warm air and squeaking beds, I again woke early and unable to get back to sleep - only this morning I'd managed to be wide awake by 4am. Half an hour later I realised that any efforts to get back to sleep were futile, so it was better to get up and quietly exit the room to do some reading and send messages to home.

    By 7.15am my walking partners from the previous day, Inga and Els, were packed and equipped with head lamps to guide the way before sunrise. We hit the trail, which though interesting wasn't nearly as magical as the scenery from the last two days.

    Breakfast was postponed until we reached the town of Villava, 4km short of Pamplona. The egg, potato, ham and cheese tortilla offering was delicious, and with two cappuccinos only came to €4.70. By 11.00am we entered the Pamplona city gates, rejoined by Martin and Jenny, and together explored some of the sights of this historic city. This included a rest on the steps of the St Mary's Cathedral, a fruit smoothie in the Plaza Consistorial, walk by the Pamplona Bullfighting Plaza, a smile at the interesting bullfighting monument, and walk across the historic citadel.

    We decided to push on another 5km to the town of Cizur Menor, and checked into the Albergue de Maribel Roncal. The grounds and buildings are absolutely charming, with the bedrooms clean and inviting at the end of the day. The typical end-of-day ritual of unpacking, showering and laundry was efficiently executed, before a walk to a local plaza for a well-earned drink.

    A pilgrims menu at a local hotel was sufficient, though unspectacular, then back to the albergue courtyard for a chat before each person peeled themselves off to bed.

    Hopefully a solid night's sleep, though it's already 10pm, so fingers crossed.

    Steps: 36,860
    Distance: 21km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 73.7km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    The road out of Cizur Menor
    Ascending to Alto de PerdónPilgrim statue at Alto de Perdón2Time to test drive the new hatBridge at Puente la Reina1Bridge at Puente la ReinaPuente la Reina1Salmon, Spaghetti, Chocolate cake and red wine for dinnerAlbergue El Cantero, MañeruAlbergue El Cantero, Mañeru

    Cizur Menor to Mañeru

    2019年10月8日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Deciding to wait for the sun to rise before setting out this morning proved to be a good decision. Not only did it provide clear waymarkers (which I wouldn't have seen otherwise), but walking through open fields under a clear blue sky energised me. This helped to overcome the pain that persisted in my left knee.

    The ascent leading up to the Alto de Perdón was a minor challenge, mostly due to the loose gravel and uneven ground conditions, but the views provided looking back on Cizur Menor and surrounding areas were definitely worth it. The statues at the pinnacle depicting medieval pilgrims was something that I had wanted to see for years. The inscription at the statue reads "Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars".

    Descending towards Uterga seemed a bit of a long slog, with my knee repeatedly protesting to the added effort required to provide stability. The Gods of Ibuprofen, Voltaren and a knee brace were smiling on me, and a cappuccino was my reward at the Uterga cafe.

    Arriving in the town of Puente la Reina meant making a decision about whether to stay here for the night, or push on to the town of Mañeru. After an early but hearty dinner, and walk along the beautiful 6-arched Romanesque bridge, it was decided to walk the extra hour onto Mañeru.

    Tonight's albergue is an old 17th Century building, packed full of charm and delightful hosts. A Belgian pilgrim kindly offered to teach me a song about the Camino (not sure which language he was using), so I politely excused myself.

    It has been said the the Camino presents pilgrims with three personal challenging stages; the physical, the mental, and the spiritual. Given that I only have 3 weeks to walk, I'm hoping that the physical stage passes relatively soon, and the mental processing can happen without being distracted by how various parts of my body are feeling.

    Looking forward to visiting the Irache monastery tomorrow. I'd like to say that this is for religious or cultural purposes, but to be honest it has something to do with the fountain that provides red wine.

    Steps: 37,700
    Distance: 23.9km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 97.6km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Pre-dawn Mañeru
    Pilgrim's rest areaNearly there!Too good to resist a sampleEstellaIrache Fuente de VinoThe road to AzquetaEnjoying the afternoon breezeDiarising the dayVillamayor de Monjardín

    Mañeru to Villamayor de Monjardín

    2019年10月9日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A pre-dawn departure from Mañeru came with a light breeze that tempered the relatively warm morning, which resulted from a broad blanket of cloud cover. Sampling grapes from a vineyard left the mouth watering, with the lights of Cirauqui seen in the distance.

    The next couple of hours provided a number of interesting sights, such as a partially restored Roman bridge, a rustic rest area for weary pilgrims in the middle of nowhere, and hills covered in vineyards.

    A welcome breakfast was enjoyed in a little cafe in Lorca. Fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and a bocadillo hit the spot, knowing that there was still close to 20km still to be walked for the day.

    I had thought that doing the Camino would provide the opportunity to practice my Spanish. However, my walking partners have mostly been delightful Germans, taking me back to my German classes in high school. It occurs to me that despite their relatively good grasp of the English language, in order for them to include me in conversation, it takes a concerted effort to translate their thoughts in German to English.

    The Irache monastery 'Fuente de Vino' is onto a good idea, with a fountain that pilgrims can use to avail themselves of a free sample of red wine. Great idea, though not likely to find one in Australia.

    The last stretch of the day through Azqueta, towards Villamayor de Monjardín was a treat for the senses, with mountains in the distance, vineyards a plenty, olive groves, and farm houses dotted throughout. While on the final approach to Villamayor de Monjardín, under a warm sunny sky, I felt a cool breeze wash across me, which I gratefully soaked up after 25km of walking.

    While writing this entry, I can smell the dinner that the hosts of our albergue are preparing. If it tastes anywhere near as good as it smells, I'm in for a treat.

    Steps: 39,550
    Distance: 26.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 123.7km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Communal space at Villamayor de Monjardín
    Regular signs pointing the way1Los Arcos Bakery - highly recommendedLos Arcos cafeLos Arcos PiazzaSampling local grapesRock castle on road to VianaA welcome invitation for a restStreets of VianaViana

    Villamayor de Monjardín to Viana

    2019年10月10日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Motivated by the desire for coffee and breakfast, another pre-dawn departure beckoned. After leaving the Villamayor albergue, the first coffee was a 12km walk, so better to get moving early.

    The first morning walk took me through mostly open agricultural fields, and a beautiful Spanish dawn sky, almost devoid of clouds. This was one of those times that I was truly thankful for the opportunity to let my thoughts roam free, leaving behind the typical ramblings demanded by everyday life.

    Reaching the village of Los Arcos shortly before 10am, I was initially concerned that there would be little on offer given the virtual absence of people. However, after walking the streets for few minutes I came across a bakery displaying the most amazing biscuits, cakes and pizzas. Now armed with a pizza, I was directed down the street towards a piazza and a quaint little cafe. With the pizza and two café con leche put away, it was time to hit the track again for Sansol and Torres del Río.

    Passing a number of vineyards again demanded that I taste-test the local grapes, and I'm happy to report that they didn't disappoint.

    Today didn't offer too many towns to stop at, so it was a matter of keeping my mind on the 30km target to get to Viana. Finding a patch of cleared ground in the early afternoon meant a self-mandated break to soak up the sun and do some writing. A lone dog made his thoughts known about my presence by howling at me from a distance of around 30 metres. A vain attempt to lure him to me for a pat was unsuccessful. I guess that he couldn't understand my Australian accent.

    Arriving in Viana shortly after 3pm was a relief, and after checking in to my albergue, and washing off the day's dirt, an early dinner with fellow pilgrims at a local restaurant was just what I needed. On another trip to this part of the world, I would love to explore more little towns like this one. It has a charming vibe, and people who make visitors feel very welcome.

    Tomorrow will involve arriving at Logroño, a relatively large regional centre. I'm finding that I prefer to move through these larger centres rather quickly, and would rather stay at albergues in smaller villages. The hospitality of the hosts at these smaller places is always a treat.

    Steps: 45,000
    Distance: 30.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 153.8km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Mural en-route to Logroño
    LogroñoSanta Maria CathedralBreakfast with friends (surprise, they're Germans)Farewell to Martin and JennyCamino waymarkers in LogroñoWaymarker en-route to NavaretteWelcome water fountain in NavaretteCafe in NavaretteVentosa albergue

    Viana to Ventosa

    2019年10月11日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    To put it simply, at the end of today I am tired and have sore feet.

    I finally had a full night's sleep last night, getting a solid 9 hours. Unfortunately, in the morning I learned that I had tossed and turned for much of the night, disturbing the sleep of the pilgrim in the bunk below me.

    The first leg of today's walk was 9.5km from Viana to Logroño. Passing through a major city like this provided the opportunity for a good breakfast with some fellow pilgrims. A walk into Santa Maria Cathedral was quite breathtaking.

    Having left Logroño, I then faced a 12km walk to Navarrete. This walk gave me time to ponder some observations that I'd made in recent days. For example, for some people this is mostly a solitary experience, either due to introversion or simply by choice. Efforts to greet them can be largely unsuccessful, so I have to acknowledge that not everyone on the Camino is the talking type.

    Also, the Camino is getting quite physical, which requires a mental focus in order to succeed. Many of the pilgrims who did the same 30km yesterday are feeling the effects today. For many, this means a shorter day that finishes in Logroño. For those pushing through to Navarette or Ventosa, the pace is noticeably slower (yours truly included). The message I hear is to challenge yourself, but to also listen to your body, and learn your limits.

    The countryside continues to be interesting, especially as I enter the la Rioja region, famous for its high quality wine. I like vineyards, but how many photos of vineyards are worth sharing?

    A reminder that I had to tell myself today is the importance of filling my water bottle when I come across a fountain. I bypassed one today, which I regretted when running out of water almost 3km short of Navarette. This meant a stop at a deli, enjoying freshly squeezed orange juice and taking a bocadillo for dinner.

    Arriving into Ventosa, I enjoyed the bocadillo while getting some laundry done, met a couple of new pilgrims, and decided on an early night.

    Steps: 43,775
    Distance: 28.8km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 182.6    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    La Rioja grapes
    Pilgrims poem near NájeraI'm sure that the words rhyme for a reasonAzofraKeep on walking!It's a wide open road!Agua fuente (not Puente)A welcome rest spotCirueñaTypical lunch

    Ventosa to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    2019年10月12日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    If there was a day that would test my resolve, it was yesterday. I walked in the afternoon sun to the physical protest of my lower right leg above my ankle, adjacent to a broken bone injury that I suffered 17 years ago. Further, I was hoping that the warm dry air would help clear what I felt was a budding chest infection. Whilst I most wanted to go to bed, I believed that I'd get through with fortitude.

    Falling asleep at 9pm, and waking at 6am feeling refreshed gave me a renewed sense of confidence and determination to push on. Thinking that a 25km day would be sufficient, it surprised me that I wanted to walk another 6km from Cirueña to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. This puts me a full day ahead of a loose schedule that I'd put together before leaving Australia. This now gives me some flexibility to slow down if I need it.

    At this stage of the journey I find that each step is carefully considered given the effects that it could have on a sore ankle joint, or a developing blister. This may pertain to avoiding a large stone, or not slipping of a high street kurb.

    Given that I've now been on the trail for a week, I keep seeing a few of the same pilgrims at various points along the way, recognisable sometimes when a few hundred metres ahead, with the telltale signs of the way that they walk, their packs, or even their pace. However, the number of familiar faces is decreasing due to the distance that I'm covering each day, so it is welcome to arrive at an albergue and see someone who has kept a similar pace.

    I made my first language error a couple of days ago when I asked a cafe operator for advice about where to refill my water bottle. Confusing the word 'Puente' (bridge) with 'fuente' (fountain), I effectively asked him to direct me to the 'water bridge'. His quizzical facial response quickly told me that my Spanish wasn't quite as good as I had wanted to believe. When I pointed to my empty bottle he kindly offered to fill it for me. I've come to learn that like most people, if treated with respect the Spanish are very gracious.

    An unexpected but short thunderstorm ordered me to quickly retrieve my laundry from the washing line. With the modern conveniences that we take for granted not available most of the time, I had no option but to accept a light shower.

    Steps: 46,000
    Distance: 31.1km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 213.7    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Leaving Santo Dom. de la Calzada
    Grañon1My French mate, PhillippeKeeping the dust awaySo many places to seeNo Vino, No Camino!Belorado RestaurantMural in BeloradoGetting closerSimple albergue comforts

    Santo Dom. de la Calzada to Villambistia

    2019年10月13日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This morning started out as excellent for walking. The sky was covered with a light layer of clouds, and there was a comfortable ambience that made the journey very pleasant.

    However, not long into the day strong headwinds provided some unwanted resistance to the morning walk, sometimes kicking up dust. I've found that this can affect my breathing, so I did what I could to keep from inhaling it.

    I spent some time this morning listening to ABC Radio, as I felt a need to hear the Aussie accent and get up-to-date on domestic events. Funnily enough, someone being interviewed had a mantra for getting through life's challenges - "Go hard, or go home". I kept this in mind throughout the day, particularly during the last few kilometres.

    Our little trio appears to often include a fourth member, with a fellow pilgrim (Phillippe from France), who has followed the same pace over the past week. While having a talk with him a few days ago in Pamplona, I discovered that his son is currently studying in Perth, so he got quite a kick when he discovered that I'm from the same city.

    It was a good thing that I'd had a decent breakfast before leaving Santo Domingo de la Calzada, as being a Sunday the options for open eating establishments were very limited. Fortunately, there were regular opportunities for filling up my water bottle, as I've found the afternoon Spanish sun unbearable without a decent supply.

    After passing through three villages with no reasonable options for a meal, we found a charming and welcoming restaurant in Belorado. At €12, the meal (including la Rioja red wine) was effectively an early dinner.

    Arriving this evening in Villambistia was a welcome end to the day, with us staying an albergue that is also the local bar. I suspect that the noise may extend into the evening.

    The good news is that my knee is now feeling better, though I'm having to be careful about potential inflammation in my right lower leg that I mentioned yesterday. I also discovered my first blister this afternoon on my heel, so will keep it dry tonight, and apply a blister cover to it in the morning.

    Steps: 42,500
    Distance: 29.7km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 243.4km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Pre-dawn Sky
    First glimpse of the sunBreakfast stop in Villafranca Montes de OcaSan Juan de Ortega - Refuge from the rainFinally, the Sun!A couple of these formations before arriving in AgésDescending into AgésAgésFinal climb between Atapuerca and Cardeñuela RiopicoView from the top, an amazing vista

    Villambistia to Cardeñeula Riopico

    2019年10月14日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It's amazing to see the difference that a single day can make. At the end of yesterday it felt as if I was dead on my feet. Today however, it felt that all of my physical ailments had mostly disappeared, and my stamina boosted beyond what I've felt so far.

    My left knee is good, virtually no pain or swelling in my right ankle, a developing hikers rash on my feet is less severe, and the blister on my heel hasn't worsened.

    After leaving Villambistia this morning, lightning could be seen in the distant pre-dawn sky, with a foreboding threat of rain later in the day. As forecast, the sky opened up at 11.00am, which is when I was grateful for the poncho and rain pants that I'd been carrying for the last 10 days. Fortunately, I was only 500 metres from a small village, with the perfect little bar to wait out the rain for the next couple of hours over a couple of coffees.

    After the rain cleared, the air felt fresh, and the clouds eventually parted enough to let some sunshine through, further lifting the spirits. Upon arriving at our intended destination of Atapuerca, reading of an albergue at the next village of Cardeñuela Riopico sounded appealing enough to walk another 6km. It turned out to be a good decision, with a comfortable bed, amazing showers, and room to move freely around the bunks (unlike last night). It's likely to be a cold night, with an expected mininum of 4 degrees Celsius. Glad I spent a little extra on a warmer sleeping bag.

    I've decided to have a night of relative comfort in Burgos tomorrow night by staying in a hotel, which is only a 14km walk from here, making it my shortest walking day yet. Leaving Burgos on Wednesday the 16th will be 2 full days ahead of my plan. It makes me wonder whether I should keep walking for a couple of days, and then get a bus to Sarria, meaning that I could walk the last 100km to Santiago de Compostela. This would still enable me to get the church-issued compostela for walking the Camino de Santiago. I'll ponder this over the next couple of days.

    Steps: 40,500
    Distance: 29.7km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 273.1    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Damn, it was cold!
    Arriving in BurgosStill on the right track?BurgosBurgosTwo weary travellers

    Cardeñuela Riopico to Burgos

    2019年10月15日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Burgos is a city that I've been looking forward to seeing. However, the walk into Burgos is extremely dull and boring. There is an hour and a half of walking through a commercial and industrial zone, which is quite depressing when compared to the open spaces that I've enjoyed over the previous 10 days. Further, when we left the albergue this morning, shortly after 8am, the temperature was barely above freezing.

    One opportunity of arriving on Burgos was to visit a doctor. I've felt that if I don't, there's a chance that my cough could become bronchitis. After checking into the hotel, I found my way to a local hospital, and was seen in less than 30 minutes. I have to say that the quality of medical care was excellent, and was happy to pay the €60, leaving with a prescription for antibiotics and paracetamol - which was filled only a short distance down the road.

    Meeting up with Els and Inga, we found a restaurant for our final dinner together. Inga is off to Bilbao tomorrow for some sun (hopefully), while Els and myself will get a midday train to Sarria, from where we'll walk the final 115km to Santiago de Compostela.

    It has made sense to have a Camino family. I don't think that any of us intended to form a walking group, but it has given us strength in numbers. This relates to motivation, decision-making, looking out for each other, and for sharing learning. It will feel different over the next week due to the different setting, as well as the language barrier when talking with Els. Thank goodness for Google Translate!

    Steps: 20,500
    Distance: 14.0km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 287.1km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Chores even before the sun is up!
    Farewell Inga!Should I tap my heels three times?Train ride to SarriaView from the train leaving BurgosView from the train near PonferradaHome Sweet Home

    Burgos to Sarria

    2019年10月16日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    So today we say goodbye to Inga. She has been part of this 'Camino family' since Roncesvalles, and today made her way to Bilbao for a more leisurely idea of a holiday. Safe travels, and thank you for your friendship over the past 2 weeks.

    Before boarding a train from Burgos to Sarria today, I had been watching the weather forecast for the Galicia region, which doesn't look great from a walking perspective unless you have the right gear. With everything else waterproof I came to the decision that my shoes weren't going to fit the bill. €110 later and I'm all ready to go. The antibiotics and a decongestant from a Sarria pharmacist have made a difference to my chest, so by Thursday morning I hope to be roaring to head towards Santiago de Compostela.

    With no real walking today, the afternoon was spent on the train with Els. We passed time in conversation as well as you can when you have no common language except for a very small amount of broken German. About 50km from Ponferrada it felt good to be passing through forests again. This had been missed over the past few days of walking through open land.

    A chance find on Booking.com landed an albergue for only €12, which included a nice private bunk (with draw curtain), lockable cabinet for my backpack, and powerpoint within my cubicle. It's amazing how such little pleasures can mean so much!

    A restaurant right across the road provided a great three-course meal of the day, including a bottle of red wine for just €16 (about A$26).

    The film 'The Way' inspired me to walk the Camino, and I'm happy to have come to Spain and do it. However, I've experienced a lot that the film didn't mention. This includes; the realities of sleeping in albergues, the unreliability of shops throughout the day (including opening times), the exhaustion that can go with climbing hill after hill, the physical afflictions that you might fall victim to (I've had a few), and the fact that pilgrims are rarely seen wearing stylised fashion (as was done in the film) - opting instead for lightweight clothing that packs well and dries quickly (fortunately I was prepared for this last one).

    The prospect of rain tomorrow has me wondering how my Camino experience will change, but I suppose there's only one way to find out.

    Steps: Not counted
    Distance: 0km (all by rail)
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 287.1km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Ready for the day!
    Will the rain stay away?Looking good so far!1View during breakfastCouldn't walk past this tree without a photoOnly 100km from Santiago 😃Novel use for an old pair of bootsThey won't sleep at night without a good walk!Arriving in PortomarínDinner in Gonzar

    Sarria to Gonzar

    2019年10月17日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    With very little walking done over the past two days (none at all yesterday) it was good to be out in the open air again, and given the fresh surroundings it feels like a fresh start to my Camino.

    Despite a terrible night of sleep, by the time I was packed and leaving the albergue, I couldn't wait to get moving. Fortunately for me, Els is some kind of exercise addict (dubbed 'The Machine'), and together we set a cracking pace in an attempt to put space between ourselves and the multitude of other pilgrims.

    As a compostela can be issued on the basis of walking only the last 100km of the Camino (and a minimum of 2 stamps per day), Sarria is where we see a large number of new walkers and cyclists. This can make for a whole new group of people to speak with, so will be interesting to see.

    After walking nearly 12km in a little over 2 hours this morning, it was time to stop for breakfast. I could almost sense my body digesting each bite of my breakfast tortilla as it hit my stomach, and it energised me to push on.

    I've found that one of the most important factors on the Camino is to carefully manage your diet. It's no surprise that the long daily walks burn a lot of calories, and without the right fuel for the body, you will have no energy. Each meal decision is crucial, and skipping a meal leaves you feeling tired and lethargic.

    Though the weather forecast indicated intermittent rain for the day, we were presented with relatively good walking conditions, with only minimal drizzle for the first half hour of the day. Even with the rain, I enjoyed the cooler weather. Having the right gear for the wet conditions made all the difference.

    In comparison to the stages walked before Burgos, I noticed today that there are many more waymarkers in this area to guide pilgrims in the right direction towards Santiago de Compostela. Also, rather than just an obscure yellow arrow on a rock, the ground or side of a building, the Galicians like the markers to clearly indicate how far there is left to walk to Santiago. Though I can see the purpose of this, I feel that it defeats the purpose when passing three waymarkers that indicate exactly the same number of kilometers to go - and has me feeling that I'm not making much progress.

    Today's picture gallery deliberately includes photos of the walking trail and weather conditions. It was a real treat in contrast to a few days ago.

    Steps: 42,000
    Distance: 30.0km
    Total Distance walked from St-Jean: 317.1km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Early morning light
    Beautiful scenery, but watch where the foot goesRain yet again!Palas de ReiCloser still!A pause in the rainPlenty of bars between Sarria and SantiagoA Coruña BridgeSaturdays Weather Forecast

    Gonzar to Melida

    2019年10月18日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Hit the trail with Els at 7.15am today in the dark and light rain, and all uphill for the first 4km. Not the best of conditions, but it meant that the day could only get easier from there.

    The headlamp purchased in Santo Domingo de la Calzada was definitely a good investment, as despite having the benefit of GPS mapping on my phone, my confidence of being on the right track is based mostly on the Camino waymarkers. This gets me through the first hour and a half of the day until sunlight guides the way.

    I've said it before, but will comment again about the friendliness of the Spanish people. No matter where I walk, a smile and greeting of 'Hola!' will quickly return a smile and wish of 'Buen Camino', much like the way that Australians can pass a stranger on the street and feel free to say G'day. They graciously acknowledge Camino pilgrims, and have always made themselves available to provide guidance along the way.

    It is a new experience having to start the day knowing that I'll be walking through rain, and I'm grateful that I'll only have to do it for a couple of days at most before reaching Santiago. The weather tomorrow is looking particularly unkind, so will mean either a 14km walk to Arzúa in the case that conditions prevent walking further, or 25km to Salceda (best case). In the event that I make it to Salceda tomorrow, this will only leave 28km to Santiago de Compostela. It would be difficult to get this close and not want to get there by Sunday October 20th.

    It will feel bittersweet reaching Santiago, as even though I will feel the accomplishment of having walked 400km through Spain over 16 days, it means that this adventure will be over. Time will tell how this affects my life back in Australia.

    Steps: 45,000
    Distance: 30.3km
    Distance walked from St-Jean: 347.4km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    View at first light
    1Passing through RibadisoVery wet, but still scenicApproaching ArzúaAlbergue common areaMy motivation for reaching Santiago by 2pm

    Melide to Salceda

    2019年10月19日, スペイン ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Okay, did I want to walk 25km over 6 hours in constant rain? I suppose that it's a rhetorical question, but I know that it meant more to me to get to Salceda, which puts me in striking distance to Santiago with only one day of walking.

    So I will set out early tomorrow with the view of making it to Santiago by 2pm. The walking conditions are looking reasonable up to then, with possible thunderstorms in the mid to late afternoon.

    Leaving the albergue in Melide at 7am today, this meant two hours walking in darkness, uphill for the first 4km, and in constant rain. To say that these were undesirable conditions is an understatement. However, I had to remind myself that it could have been worse. Passing a rubbish bin, I noticed that someone had painted on it 'Buen f#*king Camino' - at this time I could empathise with the poor soul who felt compelled to leave his/her thoughts behind for the benefit of others.

    Making it to Arzúa by 10am meant that we'd walked 14km in the first 3 hours of the day, and provided the opportunity to stop for breakfast. It felt good to take off my poncho and rain jacket, but only to find that my other clothes had also soaked up some of the rain, though it wasn't too bad.

    Arzúa had been a possible overnight stop in the event that the weather outlook precluded walking another 11km to Salceda. Figuring that I was already wet, and that it was too early to stop for the day, it was decided to continue through to Salceda. It surprised me how easily the time passed, even in continuing rain, as despite this the scenery was still pretty amazing.

    Arriving at Salceda shortly after 1pm seemed like paradise, with a hot shower, and a quiet afternoon to relax. Even though I'm staying at a relatively new albergue, with good communal facilities, it surprises me that people mostly stay in their bunks. I've enjoyed sitting in the common area of albergues, as this allows me to meet other pilgrims and hear their stories. It may simply be a case of people having a lot on their minds as they near Santiago.

    Steps: 38,400
    Distance: 25.1km
    Distance walked from St-Jean: 372.5km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Leaving Salceda
    Last Camino breakfastMorning walking lightStill misty late in the morningMonte del GozoFirst sign of Santiago!1Santiago de Compostela CathedralCathedral PlazaFinal stamps on my Pilgrim Passport1My Compostela!

    Salceda to Santiago de Compostela

    2019年10月20日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Waking up at 4am this morning I knew that there was no way I'd get back to sleep. The prospect of getting to Santiago today was too prominent in my mind to permit any sleep.

    Wary of disturbing other people sleeping, I waited until 5am before getting up and removing my gear to the common area, and having a light breakfast. Els was moving shortly after 6am, and by 6.30am we were both ready to hit the track for Santiago.

    The first couple of hours of the day were spent walking in darkness, and apart for a couple of short rain bursts, was relatively uneventful. A couple of days ago I commented on the frequent placement of waymarkers between Sarria and Santiago, and this morning I was grateful for them. When walking through the dark, it is my greatest concern that I take a wrong turn and have to retrace my steps.

    I came to realise this morning that the early bird, not only catches the worm, but also catches the spider webs. Unfortunately, this typically isn't until I'm virtually just about to walk through it. As a person who has a fear of spiders, this must have looked strange to Els as I frantically attempted to dodge them (mostly unsuccessfully).

    Passing O Pedrouzo shortly after 8am, we were joined by about 30 other pilgrims also making their way to Santiago. Thankfully the early morning light started to remove the veil of darkness, and arriving at O Amenal decided to stop for a rest and coffee.

    As the morning progressed, the trail was filled with more people, and I could feel a growing sense of excitement among the pilgrims I spoke with. For myself, I was ready to make the day my last on the Camino, and felt as if I picked up a gear in order to make this a reality. At the same time, with every step I could also feel the blister on my left heel, which had been gradually growing in recent days. The Compeed has done well, but I'm looking forward to resting my feet when I get to Santiago.

    By midday I had reached the outskirts of Santiago, and now would be the relatively uneventful walk through the city to the cathedral and Pilgrim's Office for my compostela. I noticed that unlike people in other towns I'd passed through, people here didn't seem interested in acknowledging Camino pilgrims.

    Upon reaching the centre of Santiago, the sheer number of pilgrims was quite amazing to see, and October is considered to be off-peak. My feet were sore, and I couldn't wait to collect my compostela, then get to my hotel and take my shoes off.

    I think that I will reflect more on this journey in coming days than I will today, as for now I just feel like I need to rest and recover for a day or two.

    I've achieved what I hoped to with this journey, and wouldn't change much of it. I've met some really interesting people, and despite one day of continuous rain, the walking conditions have been very good. My body is a bit sore, but has stood up to the challenge.

    I will post one more entry in coming days to reflect on the end of my Camino, but for now need to rest.

    Steps: 42,000
    Distance: 28.1km
    Distance walked from St-Jean: 400.6km    もっと詳しく

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  • Dean BellCamino Frances旅行者
    Back in the arms of a beautiful woman
    Thoughtful birthday present (2020)

    Home to Perth

    2019年10月27日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Having had a few days to relax after reaching Santiago de Compostela (taking in León and Madrid), as well as about 20 hours of flying time, I've finally arrived back home.

    After finishing my Camino, I took the opportunity to do very little for a couple of days, and just let my body rest. It felt good to be able to sleep in a bed again, walk around town without a backpack, and to not feel compelled to pack everything each morning before hitting the road.

    Having arrived home, I have discovered that I've lost over 3kg in the time that I was away. I'm pretty happy with some of the weight loss from my waistline, but have also lost some muscle weight, which I'll focus on putting back on in coming weeks (back to the gym).

    Though I am usually pretty healthy, it surprised me how much the Camino took a toll on my body. In all, the 16 days of walking entailed:
    - 400.6km walked
    - Over 602,000 steps taken
    - One large blister on left foot (protected by Compeed)
    - Prolonged aches and pains in left knee (eventually took care of itself)
    - Swelling and aching in lower right leg (near location of previous broken bones)
    - Chest infection (Bronchitis avoided)

    Landing back in Perth late on Saturday night (October 26th) felt so good! I loved breathing in the cool night air, and most of all revelled in seeing Michelle waiting for me as I walked through the airport arrival gates.

    I look forward to seeing more of Europe, though can confidently say that I won't be planning to stay in hostel-type accommodation again anytime soon. My Camino was everything that I hoped it to be, and so much more. Photos alone don't do it justice - rather, it will be the memories of so many events, places and people encountered along the way. When I look back at my Camino experience, it will be the people I met who made it what it was, to whom I will be always thankful.

    For anyone planning or wishing to walk any of the Camino de Santiago routes, I say GO FOR IT, and Buen Camino!

    One Year Update:
    It is now 5 October 2020, and a year to the day since I began my Camino Frances.

    Not many days go by that don't include memories of my Camino experience. I'm happy to say that I'm still in contact with some of the people I met along the way, and not so happy to admit that I've found the weight that I lost over the distance that I walked.

    This remains to be an experience that I treasure, and don't ever see this changing. In fact, though the world is currently dealing with the COVID-19 pandemic, my 2019 Camino has only emboldened me to return for more.

    If all goes to plan, within the next 2-3 years Michelle and I will look at the Camino Portugués, possibly starting from Porto. Part of me would like to walk again from St Jean to Pamplona, so this may be a good way to begin our next journey.

    For my birthday this year, Michelle surprised me with a framed set of my Pilgrim's Passport, Compostela and scallop shell. This proudly hangs on the wall at home, reminding me daily of this incredible experience, and despite the challenges that I faced along the way, it was all worth it.    もっと詳しく

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    旅行の終了
    2019年10月27日
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