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Camino de Santiago

April - May 2024
A 34-day adventure by Diane Read more
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  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 15

    Pre-cruise Day

    April 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After breakfast in our hotel. We set off to find the hop on hop off bus and after a false start we found them at the cruise terminal- makes sense. We took the 11 am bus which went straight to the old Roman bath ruins up in the hills above Cucitavecchia. We poked around there for an hour and was saddened that the ruins were quite neglected. It was interesting nevertheless. As well as the ruins of the bathing areas where there had once been baths of varying water temperatures, there was a library where the academics of the time would gather to read and discuss matters of importance.
    We went back into town, hoping to take a look at the Cathedral but the doors were closed so we settled for pizza in the ‘ghetto’ area of town followed by a lovely nap on the beach.
    A stroll along the promenade seemed to make us thirsty so we stopped off for cocktails on our way back to the hotel where we lazed the evening away reading and watching football.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 14

    Day 12 as Pilgrims (continued )

    April 17 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    We were met at the airport in Rome by the hotel driver who was lovely and pushed our luggage all the way to the parking garage. The drive to Civitivecchia took about 45 minutes. We checked into Hotel Porto di Roma and chilled/napped for a while. We went exploring the town and saw about four cruise ships lined up and after a while two departed at sunset. We found a sunny spot to stop for cocktails- Negroni for Chris and Aperol Spritz for me. We walked a little farther and found a cathedral and an interesting statue before turning back to an area with several restaurants that the hotel desk clerk had recommended. We settled on Cafe American only because it was one of the few places that had customers at the time. Wow, did we hit the jackpot!! The owner made us a plate of seafood appetizers and said that it was ‘necessary’ to have some white wine with it!! Everything was delish but I let Chris enjoy the pulpo!! We discussed dessert options and the owner, Sergio, suggested ice cream and said that he would make something. OMG it was amazing. Ice cream, vodka, lemon juice, and champagne served in a margarita glass. It could be dessert or a cocktail.
    Then he said that it was ‘necessary’ for a liquor. I’m not sure what it was but it wasn’t to my liking. Moving along to paying the bill, somehow Chris and Sergio exchanged hats. Chris is now the owner of a very becoming straw hat and Sergio has a ball cap from Bainbridge Island!!
    We promised to go back tomorrow night for pasta and the dessert recipe!!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 13

    Day 12 as Pilgrims

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    This morning it was time to say farewell to Santiago. The taxi came at 7am to take us to the airport for our flight to Rome via Madrid. We have VIP lounge access and enjoyed breakfast in the deserted lounge. Such a nice flight to Madrid, we saw snow on the mountains and enjoyed the changing landscape below.
    We had to say goodbye to Catherine and Bruce but I know that we will keep in touch. Catherine lives on Vancouver Island and Bruce is just an hour from one of our favorite places - Emerald Lake, BC.
    My next post will be from the port city of Civitavecchia, Italy ✈️    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 13

    Day 11 as Pilgrims

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Today we slept late and enjoyed wandering around Santiago after breakfast. At noon there was a Pilgrims Mass so we stayed in the Cathedral for that. Afterwards we decided to open a bottle of bubbly for lunch and happened to see Catherine and Bruce walking by our apartment so we invited them to join us. We wandered some more in the afternoon and on our way back we bumped into Bruce so we had sundowners with him and arranged to meet for dinner later with Catherine. Another excellent evening eating seafood, cheese, and tuna salad with some excellent Spanish wine.
    It is not goodbye yet because they will be on our flight to Madrid in the morning!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 12

    Day 9 as Pilgrims

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We made it, we absolutely did. From now on we will always be pilgrims. I will write more tomorrow. For now I am just content to be here in beautiful Santiago de Compostela surrounded by other pilgrims.Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 12

    Day 10 as Pilgrims

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I am sitting in the sun in a cute little square just outside of our apartment reflecting on yesterday and enjoying the flowers and the smells from all the small cafes/bars and the comings and goings of people speaking all different languages.
    Yesterday was the most amazing day. We walked for most of it with two Canadians who we had previously bumped into along the way. Catherine and Bruce, good friends who enjoy the outdoors. The walk was relatively easy, just a few uphill stretches and through the Enchanted Forest. The weather was fairly cool and our conversations kept us going. We received the traditional welcome of a bagpiper into Praza do Obradoiro in front of the Cathedral and my tears were flowing. I was happy, grateful, sad that it was over- every emotion.
    We took lots of photos, sat for a while just to savor our surroundings and to watch other pilgrims complete their journey. It was just a wonderful experience. We went off to a cafe for lunch with some Sangria with Catherine and Bruce to celebrate.
    Next we went to the Pilgrims Office to collect our Compostela as proof of our pilgrimage.
    We checked into our marvelous apartment to relax for a while before meeting Mark, Chris, Catherine, and Bruce for a well deserved dinner at San Martin Pinario Monastery. A very good day.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 11

    Day 8 as Pilgrims

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We started walking this morning from Ordes, 2.5 kilometers from the Camino. We thought about taking a taxi back to pick up the Camino but we ate so much last night that we needed to walk extra today!! Breakfast in the hotel was nice so we took extra for a picnic lunch.
    I had one of those moments today where all was well in my world. I started to reflect on our journey and I felt such gratitude for this opportunity and for the fact that we had the time, the means, and the physical stamina to do this. Best of all, I am doing this with the love of my life ♥️
    Mother Nature has been all around us all week and I have so enjoyed all the sights, the smells, and the beauty of everything; the ocean, the different flowers, the eucalyptus trees and the farmyard smells.
    The weather was hot and sunny today, particularly the last stretch but the Houston heat had us well prepared we found our hotel and showered and crashed for a while.
    We have just returned to our hotel from a lovely dinner of Cesar Salad and Risotto. Wherever we have been to eat, we have been presented with a surprise, either a small appetizer with a beer, a small piece of cake with coffee, last night we had a delicious liqueur after dinner, all complementary and offered with pleasure. It is so refreshing to be served this way.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 10

    Day 7 as Pilgrims

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our first stay in an Albergue was wonderful, although we did pick a posh one where we had our own private room and bathroom. We ate breakfast along the way at Cafe Uzal, coffee and croissants. Kay showed up with the North Carolinians whilst we were there (still don’t know their names)!! There was a sculpture garden across from the cafe with a dinosaur and other interesting things.
    We stopped again at Cafe Novo for Fanta. There is no accommodation in Poulo so we walked a further 2.5 kilometers to the town of Ordes to Hotel Alda Camino Ingles. We ate the equivalent of a cream tea for lunch and then we chatted with two Canadians whilst we waited to check in.
    Our room is basic but lovely and spotlessly clean with a beautiful view and lovely light. We went off to find dinner after a nap and a shower. We chose A Campana and we were not disappointed. The first course was a stir fry of mushrooms, shrimp, and octopus, followed by sliced ribeye which we cooked ourselves at the table with salad and fries. Dessert was cheesecake. As a surprise (there is always a surprise) we got to choose a liquor each.
    We took a stroll around town and are ready to crash now 😴    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 9

    Day 6 as Pilgrims

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The convent life suited us well. We slept well and ate well. We were dropped off in Presedo, where we ended yesterday and began walking to Hospital de Bruma. I need to research why the town is called that.
    I have to admit feeling nervous this morning knowing that today we would face our biggest climb yet. The weather was gorgeous and for the first couple of hours the path was delightful. Along country lanes and through forested areas with the birds singing and all the beautiful country smells. We came across Kay from New Zealand who we have seen a few times and she was waiting for a couple from North Carolina to catch up. After a quick Orange Fanta (my new favorite) the climbing began but honestly, even though it was steep and long, it wasn’t as brutal as I had dreaded. We made it to Casa Avelina which is owned by Mary Carmen, who is famous for her amazing hospitality, in time for lunch. She brings small stools for your feet and plies you with appetizers and cookies and is just wonderful. It was only about 2.5 kilometers further then to our albergue.
    We ate dinner just down the road and ran into Mark and Chris, our friends from two nights ago and also Dennis from the Netherlands and Maryanne from Germany. Then a Chinese influencer joined us for awhile. Everyone is so friendly. I don’t think I took enough photos today.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 8

    Day 5 as Pilgrims

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We really enjoyed our apartment, so clean and modern. We were a little sluggish this morning after having several drinks and dinner with Chris and Mark last night. A delightful couple of guys who both live in England now but Chris was born in Africa and Mark was born in California.
    We walked through the town of Betanzos and bought empanadas to eat later. We met a delightful lady who was walking her dog. Naturally she spoke to us in Spanish and, of course, we could not understand her so then she spoke to us in German which wasn’t a whole lot better!! But it was fun.
    Today was much warmer than past days and we were climbing for most of the day so it was hard going. Our destination, Presedo, does not have any accommodation except for a municipal albergue so we had made reservations at Rectoral de Cines, a 1,000 year old former convent. It is stunning.
    We ate a lovely dinner of cod (me) and veal (Chris) then we took a walk around outside and enjoyed an amazing sunset before bed.    Read more

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