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  • Day 7

    Fonfria to Sarria

    October 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Woke up feeling sick, waited in the rain for a bus, flagged it, rode it, was able to leave my bag at the hostel/hotel/pension/? , found meds and some warm socks. Hopefully tomorrow I'm well enough to walk. It should be warmer at least! The bus saved me 2 days of walking so I'm ahead of schedule and will finish in 5 or 6 days, once I start walking again anyway. I felt well enough to go eat dinner and ate with Yang, Daria and Maria. I had soup and salad.Read more

  • Day 5–6

    Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce

    October 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    I left my aubergue later than I wanted again, but it was drizzly and I was over the rain, so i went to a cafe and ran into Jillz there. We had our morning coffees together and the split ways, and I walked from Cacabelos alone for a while, and then Jillz joined me shortly after a truck full of crying dogs drove by, and then she walked her own camino until Seneca and I found her at a cafe. I dont remember where I joined Seneca, maybe where two paths met? But we walked most of the day together. It was a beautiful walk, no rain, really except for some morning drizzle. We spent the day walking through the mountains and, after 15.75ish miles, finally arrived in our tiny cute town of Vega de Valcarse. It was so cold and the aubergue had heated floors and I am all about those heated floors now! The level of comfort they give is incredible, and I genuinely have been cold for weeks. Speaking of cold, i did soak my feet in small spring that ran down behind the aubergue from the mountaintop. It was painfully cold and wonderful at the same time. I drank hot chocolate while I sat there. We, and Gillian, our roommate, ended up going out for dinner together at a place that had the fire heaters on the terrace and blankets to use. It was wonderful.
    I decided I want to have an animal rescue. Those poor dogs broke my heart, and i felt so helpless and hopeless, and i know they did also. Jillz thinks I should write a book about my healing journey and the camino. Who knows? Maybe I will.
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  • Day 4–5

    Molinaseca to Cacabelos

    October 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It was supposed to rain, A LOT. Everyone was talking about how horrible the rain would be, how much they were dreading the walk... afterall, we had all just had the longest, hardest walk through the rain, wind, and cold. I mean, I did taxi the last 9kms the day before for a reason!
    But, surprise of surprises, the weather report changed. Molinaseca was now supposed to have rain early in the morning, and then it would calm down. Ponferrada was supposed to have heavy rain after 1pm, and Cacabelos was only supposed to have light rain. If I timed my day right, I could avoid most of the rain!
    It just so happened that somehow, the vibrate on my watch alarm had been turned off, and I overslept, so instead of leaving the aubergue by 6:45, I left at nearly 8:30. I was a bit frustrated by this but thought "it's okay, I have a long day, I needed the sleep, and now I've missed the heavy morning rain and darkness", and I began my walk. I actually really enjoyed myself, I walked alone I think, I may have listened to a bit of music, and then I got to Ponferrada and really wanted to see the Templar Castle so I could take photos for dad. I did that and visited the Templar store where there was a handcrafted wooden mug with the castle burned into it, but I couldn't bring that back with me, it would be too bulky.
    I continued on, and before I knew it, the route felt wrong. It's very easy in cities to get turned around or on the wrong path, so I checked my map and realized I was on the bike path. I turned around, and here comes a pilgrim in a red poncho. I stopped her and told her we were on the wrong path, and she asked if she could join me to get back on the correct way. Her name was Jillz (or Jules?) from Australia, and as we walked, I found out that she's a physical therapist and a yoga instructor and I said "as a PT, you might be interested to hear my story. Have you ever heard of FND?"
    She had, she also has had patients with it who just give up on ever getting better, and when i told her that I have it, she couldn't believe her ears, especially when i told her that a year ago, I was struggling to walk. I found out that she became a PT because she had become sick and had gone through a healing journey, learning how to reuse her legs and her body again also. What a connection! And all because my alarm didn't go off, and we both took a wrong turn! We spent the day walking together and just really enjoying the company of each other and realizing that we are both absolute unstoppable badasses.
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  • Day 3

    Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca

    October 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    What a day! Woke up to rain, which we were all expecting, but wow how it changed the day for me! I walked with Sara from Adelaide today and we actually really enjoyed the challenge of walking in the rain, dodging the 'river' that had formed on our path. It was a challenge and kept our brains busy, which seemed to help pass time. We made our way to Cruz de Ferro and left our stones, then continued until we found a shelter and Sara wanted to stop and add a layer. While here, Seneca came along and joined us for the hike. Leaving the shelter made the world feel even colder. We were eventually joined by a few other women and we formed a line, trekking through all the rain and wind until our path came to the road. Then we debated which way to go. "It'll be easier to hail a taxi from the road" I joked. We decided the road would be easier to walk since there wasn't a river running through it. We formed a line with the brightest ponchos taking up the lead and the rear, and we began power walking to stay warm. The wind was so hard and my face was so cold that my nose started running and the wind was whipping the snot from my face 🤣 And then, camino magic happened! A taxi drove by, I stuck my thumb out to hitch a ride and HE STOPPED 🤣 he already had a passenger but said he would send his friend to get us and 5 minutes later, here comes Emma to save the day in her van. We probably skipped 9 kilometers total but it honestly felt like so much further. Zero regrets. Best day!Read more

  • Day 2

    Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

    October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    This was a hard day! I got a late start due to some 8 am rainshowers, briefly saw Gaudi's Palace Episcopal, and hit the road. It was only 12 miles but for the first time, I had FND symptoms- fatigue, tiny steps... uhg. I took a break and had a bite to eat, and then my body returned to normal just in time for the muscle from my ankle to start aching horribly. I think today was my slowest day yet, and I got to my albergue shortly after 2. I felt like a slow tortoise today. The scenery has changed and mountains are in view again and that makes me very happy!Read more

  • Day 1

    San Martín del Camino to Astorga

    October 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    This morning, I took breakfast at the albergue and got to meet several new women so it was lovely to find some people to chat with. The weather today started off nice, the perfect temperature, a slight breeze. By 2 pm, though, the wind was so strong that it was blowing me around, even blowing my trekking poles around. It is supposed to be thunderstorms, and the clouds look very stormy. Today was 14.24 miles, but I accidentally took an alternative route and added a mile to the trip. It ended up being okay, the detour, because I went through a bunch of small villages and came across the greatest donation food stand in the history of the world. I grabbed a pear, a banana, some vegetable juice, and a boiled egg here. The egg gave me the walking farts but I was thankful that it didn't turn into anything more because I don't want to have to poo in a field.Read more

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