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January 2018 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by Calbys going wild Read more
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  • TravelerFeb 2018
    11
    Day 41

    Cloudbridge Nature Reserve

    March 10, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We travelled from Bejuco to Quepos on the bus, and went to Alamo to see if we could rent our car a day early.  Not only could we get it early (with no hastle - Love Alamo!) but they upgraded us to a 4x4 that actually will fit Keith when he arrives and our packs.  And off we went.  Marty and Caleb immediately felt better being able to choose our route.  We headed up into the hills, on the smallest road we could find.  Made a few mistakes, then Marty drank a beer outside a small grocery with some older cowboys and asked if we could drive through to San Marcos on the little road.  Of course!  Take a right, another right, through the river, another right and derecho (straight ahead).  It was like driving up 9mile.  Except people were farming and living everywhere.  When the road couldn't get any steeper, it did.  They just put a bit of concrete down for extra traction.  Driving through this area which is heavily farmed, or growing coffee or cacoa on 80 degree slopes, I appreciate the National Parks of Costa Rica even more.   We made it to San Marcos just as the sun was going down, with no indication of where we were going to stay.  We drove around for about an hour, following people's tips, and finally settled in at $40 per night in a local place.  We all slept, except Marty, but that is not so unusual anyways. 

    We headed off good and early with some pan dulce that had dulce de leche in it instead of brown sugar (sweet bread).   Off onto another track, that might be a road.  Stopped to let some cows go by, and jumped out to ask if they were for carne or leche.  The herder took us to meet the owner, and she showed us how they made the cheese in their little two room factory.   I can ask my questions in Spanish well enough, that I get a jumble of unintelligible Spanish in return.  I know they make cheese!!  It reminded me of talking to cheese makers in the alps.  We made it to the highway, and travelled over the La Muerte pass, which is at 3500m, on a little two lane paved road which is the main connector between San Jose and the south.  It took us almost 2 hours to decend 60 km with all the other traffic down to 1100m.  San Isidro is a city that has been around for 100 years, and it fed us, and then we headed up to San Gerardo de Rivas, again without a place to stay, but at least earlier.  All the online bookings were full, but we figured there might be something.

    And sure enough, we drove to the end of the road to Cloudbridge Nature Reserve, and they had a cabin open for two nights.  Tada!  Its beautiful, quiet, and cool (we used blankets for the first time in 3 weeks) and in the cloud forest , and borders onto Chiripo National Park.  That may be an adventure for another time, as the peak is the highest in Costa Rica and the trail is 42 km.  Jorja did impress us with her hiking today as we were out for 6 hours in the secondary and primary cloud forest. We decended through the boulder strewn creek for our decent.  There are waterfalls and massive granite boulders throughout the creeks.  Apparently Costa Rica is only 5 million years old, and was actually glaciated 10,000 years ago.  Who would have guessed!!!  A couple bought this property in 2002, when it was ranching land, and over the years have aquired 700 acres that has been reforested.  It is now used as a research and education center.  A great treat to stay here.  We hope Hazelton folks that you are excited to be on your March break!!!  Talk to you soon.     Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    11
    Day 49

    Mountain exploring

    March 18, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Marty, as you know, loves to explore.  The steeper and more remote, the better.  We loved the cool air and less populated areas of the mountains so much that we stayed up high for a few more days.   We set off to visit the ruins of a catheral from the spanish conquistador days, only to discover that there is another town called Ujarres, but it is on the other side of the mountains nearer San Jose.  However, we did end up high in the valley, on roads that are not meant for rental 4x4s and we loved it!  We gave Anthony a ride, up to his farm, where we met his father (Alexis) who is retired from working at Dole, and is now exploring being a farmer on his wife's families' farm.  It was incredibly dry, no rain for three months, but the rainy season replenishes the water so well, that water was running from the hills in all sorts of creeks.  They had a tomatoe and bean crop ready to harvest to sell in town, that without the water would have shrivelled in a day.  We were, again, driving around without a place to stay, and didn't want to drive all the way back to Buenos Aires which was closed up for Sunday had been stifling hot and was an hour down a dirt road.  Would you believe that Anthony's uncle owned the only accomodation in the valley?  Anthony lept on his bike, without a helmet and powered up the hill ahead of us, the hill I hadn't been so sure we should drive down, and hurled down the hill on the other side.  A river crossing, and we ended up at a 4 room lodge, where we were the only guests and there was a pool!!!  No cooking facilities, but his cousin found a pot for us and we cooked over a fire as the cicadeas (massive 3 inch beetles that flew into our room at night) and toads and stars came out.   It proved to be still warm in the mountains during the day, but cool at night.  

    We drove off the next day,  and up up up into the cloud forest, where someone had left a bit of forest and not burned it off for pasture.  After visiting a school, (there are schools everywhere) we found a town that wasn't on our map, where we picked up Anita and her grandaughter Diane.  Diane goes to a school, where the teacher drives 28 km one way from Buenos Aires that takes an hour on an insanely steep and twisty road.  And all for 8 students.  Anita invited us back to her house for lunch, a house that was built before she moved here 34 years ago to be with her husband.  They work for the ranch owner and grow cilantro to sell in town.  They have a Toyota jeep, and motor bikes and a horse,  and live in a very simple house.  She cooked for us on a wood stove and talked about her five children,  two who have started families in the village, and one who has gone off to university.  I asked about the upcoming election and what was important to her:  Peace, a roof over her head and education for the children.   Jorja loved playing with Diana, and they managed despite not being able to speak to each other!   It was a treat to meet them. 

    Our next day found us up the roads of the next valley, again visiting indigenous territory, where they are proud to have not succumed to the Spanish.  Many people riding horses, for work or to pick up the kids from school.  It looked like a poorer area, but still water treatment plants and schools.  We stayed cool swimming in rivers, and drove down cart tracks that could have been the road back to the highway, but sometimes ended at a farm or a washed out bridge.  It was with relief that we finally hit pavement and allowed our teeth to reconnect to our skulls and headed to San Vito.  We enjoyed our respite from Costa Rica tourism, and the chance to meet and learn from people.     Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    Day 53

    Pavones

    March 22, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Pavones
    Pavones is a laid back pueblo way in the south west corner of Costa Rica.  Any further south and you are in Panama.  It was stinking hot, as usual, however the sands have dammed the river and a beautiful freshwater lagoon is the perfect swimming local.  Caleb was so happy to have freshwater swimming that he declared that we were not leaving until we had to fly back to Canada.  Jorja loved being in the water so much, that she learned how to swim!   She can now swim out into deep water, roll over and float on her back and then swim back to shore.  Yahoo!   We couldn't even find a place to buy post cards!
    Sat am Marty and Caleb headed off to pick up Keith (who was visiting from Columbia) in Golfito. 
    They turned the 1 hour drive into a 45 minute rally race including drifting around most corners.  They did the regular, get money, beer and rum (who needs groceries anyways!) and headed back.  We had not run into any police checks thus far, so it was lucky Keith was with them on this trip as the  Police found them.  They cracked a beer and headed out of town and would have made it past our first police check point, if Keith had been wearing his seat belt.  The hand motion to
    come here, looks alot like go away, so Marty continued to crawl away from the checkpoint as the well armed traffic police got more agitated. In hindsight, continuing to drive away with confused looks on their faces might have been successful, but they did the right thing and slowly backed up to start one of the longest and serious conversations about the horrific neglect of driving without a passport ($200US) or wearing seatbelts ($150US).  Listening to Keith dance through an incredibly circular converstaion where he continued to insist, "there must be some way we can help each other out", allowed Marty time to practice a 45 minute smile.  After many offers from the Costa Rican police to remove our license plates, seize our vehicle, and point us in the direction of the nearest bus, the senior officer decided they could take the three officers out to lunch to continue the converstation.  Keith dramatically declared that my young son was waiting in the vehicle and we could not take them out to lunch, but would love to buy them lunch.  Sometime during this latino dance, Caleb noticed one of the officers approaching our vehicle and decided it might be best to jump in the front seat and place the not quite yet consumed recycling a little further under the seats.  The transaction had to take place inside the sliding side door of the police van where Keith asked if 20K colones would buy the officers a decent lunch in Golfito.  At that point it seemed that we had made three new friends in Costa Rica,  with many mucho gustos we were on our way, ticket free, to continue our journey. 

    Pavones is world famous with the 2nd longest left break in the world.  We stayed at Cabinas Carol which is a great surfing hostel run by Pablo the Italian.  We met many great people, and had our only realy hostel experience in Costa Rica.  Caleb was a bit too young to participate in the "life" but he was definitely closer in age to the other residents than his parents!  Caleb and Stacey tried surfing again, and even with the bigger waves, had some success.  We were glad we tried then! While we were there (4 days), the wind came up, and the swell came up, and everyone who was anyone in surfing arrived in Pavones.  There were amazing waves and world class surfing where the rides were two minutes long, and surfers travelled out of sight around the corner.  At any one time there were easily 50 surfers out beyond the break waiting to get on the wave.  Rodrigues, a 20 year old Brazilian who is an expert surfer (we watched him do flips on his board while surfing), said it was the best surfing of his life.  We mere mortals swam in the fresh water, explored up the river, chased iguanas (they have incredible burst speed and do not move where one expects them to!) and enjoyed Keiths cooking.  Eventually we had to leave the land of perfect bodies, and head up the coast.     Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    Day 53

    Heading up the coast

    March 22, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We reluctantly left Pavones, knowing we didn't want to have to drive the 8 hours to SJ in one day.  The Osa Penninsula is where Corcovado National Park is located, and is a huge tropical rainforest area that is protected, much of it primary rainforest.  It is difficult to get into, as you need a guide and a permit to hike in the park, not to mention the dreadful thought of carrying a loaded pack in 30+ heat and sodden humidity.  Not for the feint of heart, and not for us.  We did decide to drive into Drake Bay, and the road was beautiful, with river crossings but clouds of polvo (dust).  Marty rescued a spanish couple who had decided their vehicle couldn't make it up a hill.  The man said he was a very good driver, and Marty said he may be, but Marty was better and the gentleman swore softly as Marty roared his way past.  Drake Bay is a strip of varied accomodation driven up against the hills by the ocean.  We searched for accomodation, Keith patiently asking at several places if we might have a room for 5 for under $50.  Marty declared that there was no way he had driven in the road, just to give up and pay to sleep away from the water and finally we found a hostel, that was an old converted farm house (where we paid $36).  Angel and his wife (the farm belonged to her parents) rent out rooms.  Sadly Angel's wife is battling cancer. 

    Marty and Keith made their way to the beach and then town after the rest of us had gone to bed, to see the local bar scene, but were disappointed.  Still, Costa Rica, as much of central america, was awake at 5 am.  Motorcycles roaring past with folks off to work, busses picking up children for school that starts at 7am.  We were able to find the public path south that leads all the way to the park and would be a great hike on its own, without having to arrange to be in the park. Crossing over a bridge, there was a capuchin monkey that bared it's fangs, but it turned out it was protecting its mate and newborn baby that didn't even have hair yet. We passed many fancy lodges, and used their showers at the beach where we swam and played baseball with the almonds that the macaws dropped.

    We drove through the palm oil plantations up the coast which have replaced banana plantations on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. Palm oil refineries in several locations are owned by Shell and Mobile which confused us. I know palm oil goes into cookies and margarine and ice cream ( oh dear, more rainforest destruction that I am inadvertently responsible for), but the big oil companies interest in palm oil comes from using palm oil as an additive in biofuel production. Last year the EU was considering a ban on using palm oil in biofuel because of its contribution to rainforest destruction. And you thought this was all just about sun and fun! We made it up to Uvita, where the arial view of the promontory at low tide is exactly as a whale tail.  It is Balena National Park, and migrating humpbacks pass through here.  We found a route into the park, that avoided the front gate, but had us holding our bags and Jorja over our heads and crossing the river where the signs warned of crocodiles.  I think we may be pushing it with the save a few colones idea!!  The snorkling on the outside of the tail was the best, and only, snorkling we had in Costa Rica.  Keith had just taken his dive course, and we all agreed we were able to see a great diversity of fish.  Just ahead of where the waves were breaking, we were surrounded by schools of large fish, and in the more sheltered areas we saw all sorts of colorful tropical fish.  Caleb thought it was amazing.  The boys walked over to the other beach, in the hot sun, with salt soaked thighs, and suffered for their reward of finding a much nicer accomodation for our second night.  Really, the afternoons at this time of the year need to be spent in the shade, and the pool and the nice Canadians who owned the place were worth Keith and Marty's pain. 
    Driving north, we contemplated heading into the mountains to get to SJ, but felt like we had got more than our monies worth out of the little rental that could, and didn't want to push our luck on the last day.  We stopped in to say a goodbye to Shirley, Luis, Bradley and Ashley in Bejuco, and hope we will see you again some day!  It was burning hot, and Marty had just passed many vehicles tico style, but the highway bridge at Tarcoles, did not disapoint.  There were at least 20 VERY large crocodiles lying in wait.  I did not hold Jorja up to look. 

    The car cleaning and return was easy, we love Alamo!!  We said goodbye to Keith, and we almost made 1600$ giving up our seats, but they put us on at the last minute.  Onto Vancouver to start phase 2 of our adventure!!     Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    Day 74

    Lisboa

    April 12, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    There was some shock returning to Canada after the heat of Costa Rica.  Vancouver was cold and rainy so we consumed alot of calories to make up for lost heat.  Our friends Sheelagh and James let us stay in their beautiful house while they were away, and I made it to my friend Sue's 50th birthday dinner.  It was a good break before heading to stay with Marty's parents near Orillia.  Walks and bike rides on crisp days, all the family, Caleb's birthday, easter bunny, and visits to sugar shacks. It was a treat to be with family for the holiday, and especially Marty's family as we never visit in the spring.  There was a bit of suspense waiting for Jorja's trail-a-bike that we had ordered in Feb, and didn't arrive until the day we left for Portugal as well as meeting the courier on the highway on our way to the airport to get Marty's sandals. 

    Well, I wish I'd payed a bit more attention to the portugese being spoken around me at school in Kitimat.  I knew none of the language on arrival, except for "thank you" and "where is", and quickly I realized that although the words in spanish and french are similar the pronunciation is MUCH different!  I would have to say that it sounds alot like Russian, but maybe that's because I don't speak Russian either.  Marty suggested that I ask someone a question, and although I think i know no portugese, I still was ahead.  Quickly, I am learning and its not that hard!!  It is very nice that many people in Lisbon speak english, and we have learned lots about the country from all the people that Marty starts talking to wherever we go.  Would you be surprised to know that although he cannot speak the language, he can still communicate!!  We have been assured that in rural portugal, few people will speak english! 

    So our first week in Portugal has been continually improving.  Jetlag is hard.  Especially when you are 12 and you don't give yourself the permission to be tired.  We have been incredibly lucky to stay with a family here who are also bike tourers.  Filipa and Joao and their three boys Manuel, Vasco, and Henrique have welcomed us into their home.  We cook dinner, buy some groceries, and Marty does his Mcgyver stuff with lights, and cars, and vaccums in exchange for a place to stay.  They live in a flat in the part of the city that is the Expo 98 Site which is a study in modern architecture.  Filipa says they are not normal, as both of them are Civil Engineers, but Filipa has also taken Psycology for 5 years and wants to work in schools promoting biking.  Joao is working on a business about promoting biking.  Kids go to nursery school early, and moms often go back to work very early. 

    We have biked the 10km down to to central Lisboa and explored the old city, especially Alfama which was the part of the city that survived the 1755 earthquake that devastated Lisboa.  It is fun learning about a new country,  where I know so little.  I was going to write about the country, but no, I still do not know anything, I know the moors were here, which is islamic and from Africa.  There was battles with the Knights of the Temple to convert to christianity, but I'll learn more and give you details!  I can tell you, there is much vinho here that is very cheap.  Joao made potatoes, and chorizo and fresh fava beans for lunch, it was delicious, and some vinho! 

    We have bought some second hand bikes from David a fantastic bike store owner.  We have our gear, and Joao has convinced Marty that bike touring is good.  So in the next few days we will head off into the interior of Portugal.  We have figured out which train to take to get out of Lisbon and up to Tomar where we will start our journey.  It has been colder than we expected, and colder than normal even for portugal, so we will buy some mittens for Jorja, and we are glad we brought our toques.  We might need warmclothes for sleeping as we have warm weather sleeping bags because it is supposed to be warm in Portugal in April, although the people who live here says april is the time of rain.  Rain and then sun.  We have a tarp!     Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    Day 75

    Off we go!!!!

    April 13, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We have made it out the door. On the train to Tomar and then biking to Joãn’s Grandfathers house in Sao Domingos. We can actually pedal these monsters! A thousand thank yous to Filipa and all the family.Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    1
    Day 82

    Grand Roto de Zezére

    April 20, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Bike touring on a mountain bike trail.
    Marty asked for a time map of when we are meeting my parents, and he looked at me dumfounded when I replied "in three weeks". We have been "on the road" for four days, and it feels like we have been going for weeks as we are getting in the groove  We are actually bike touring.  We left from Lisboa on Friday last week, took the train 150km to Tomar, and then rode our bikes 34km to San Domingos.   The weather was still a bit cold and rainy, so we stayed for three nights in snug beds with a fireplace in Joao's grandparents house.  Marty felt a bit like he was in the Zombie apocalypse, as there is no one around.  Like many villages in rural Portugal (and rural anywhere), young people leave for the cities, and only the old folks are left.  As the last generation dies off, people keep up the family houses and use them as vacation homes.  In San Domingos, we ordered dinner from the cook at the Bernardino Cafe (Joan's Uncles cafe), and she cooked us up a portugese feast.  The bread van came each morn.

    It was a big first day on leaving Sao Domingos and we biked about 50 km.  We didn't intend to, but we biked to a town to get food, and then left town looking for a camp, and were near to the river, just a few hundred feet above it.  We asked for water in a village, and filled a 6L bottle we had found and camped on a logging road in a eucalyptus plantation.  Our small fire was mindful of the blackened woods we had biked through.  The fires last year were widespread and deadly, with flames roaring across valleys and wiping out farms and trapping villagers.  People have shown us pictures of the flames rising above the church spires.  The original mediteranean forests of cork and oak were replanted with pine forests, and within the last 50 years the fast growing eucalyptus forests have been planted and harvested making up 10% of Portugal's export.  So you can imagine that it is a bit of a debate, to keep growing the eucalyptus  (which also suck the water and nutrients faster than other species), or go back to pine and less fire hazard.  We can tell you that there is not information out there about where the fires have been.  Do not tell the tourists where it is black, is an agreed upon principle. 

    Subsequent travel days did not include 50 km.  They did however involve finding a campsite too late in the day, being tired with a BIG hill as our last event, riding up endless hills, leaving the perfect campsite too late in the day, and finding a fabulous trail system, The Grand Roto Zezere, along a river.  The villages along this part of the river have many Xisto (Schist) built houses, modern and ancient that are incredible. Areas that were burned reveal unbelievable old rock walls terracing on hillsides. Yesterday we biked 20km, in addition to a few km of detours, and our last 5km were along an old dirt mining road above the river.   We camped in the dark and quiet (we are usually near a village of some sort and hear the dogs and church bells in the night) had a fire and clambered down to the river for a gaspingly cold swim.

    In all, we are enjoying our travel.  Although we have not bike toured before, we know how to camp, and how to bike, and how to fix bikes, and go on multiday hikes.  We got off the train in Tomar, asked each other which direction we should go, and headed off, hoping for the best.  Marty has accepted that there are few animals, or fish, and has consoled himself with the old villages.  Caleb has stopped telling us he wants to go home, and Jorja is her regular happy self, chatting away in strange languages as she turbo charges Marty's bike. I have to admit, I was exhilarated that my dream of bike touring with my family 30 years after I had bike toured with my family, is actually happening.  Jorja has flowers on her handlebars, and wears a pink dress while biking.  We find wifi for Caleb so he can connect to friends, and Marty drinks cheap white around the occassional fire, and I am thrilled when Caleb calls out "I think the old girl is trying to beat me up this hill" and then promptly overtakes me.        Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    Day 83

    Caleb wrote this ...ALL

    April 21, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Caleb: At first I disliked Europe and what we were doing (Bike touring) ,but after 3 days of 35 k each my butt ache and legs stopped hurting so bad. Now in total we have done 140 k (don’t try and add up the numbers cuz they don’t add up;) I have mostly liked camping in the mountains/hills because there are zero .0.0.0. People to bother me,it’s a vast world when we trek through the burnt areas of Portugal. Me and my dad figure that all the residents have a rule not to tell tourists where the fire was , if u have no clue what I am talking about there was a fire that went through almost all of Portugal ! Killing 100 people... well I’ll wrap it up soooo I miss am my friends sooooooo much. Byeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!Read more

  • TravelerFeb 2018
    Day 84

    Bàrroca

    April 22, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After determining that rear axels were not designed to carry 220lb bikers, and panniers, and trailer bikes, and a 40lb child, we made it to Barroca and had a repair done at the mechanics shop.  We had to go back the next day to get the bottom bracket on Stacey's bike tightened, then it started to rain.  We were comfortable camped out on the river, and so decided to stay.  We spent some time also camped out in the Central Cafe beside the little wood stove, drinking milky coffee, and charging our devices.  Jorja had some play time with Maria's grand daughter Matild who comes up for the weekend from Fundao.  Many of the children we meet are not comfortable with another language, but Matild was adventerous and taught Jorja some Portugese, and Jorja shared some English.  Here up to third year the children have 2 hours a week of english instruction, and then 5 hours a week after that.  Matild's family used to live in Barroca, but when the school closed, they moved to Fundao for work and school.  The same story everywhere.  Apparently unemployment varies between 20 and 30% in Portugal and young people leave to go to France or Germany to work, or to the cities on the coast. 

    We were planning to leave the next day, but when the community walk went by on the other side of the river we decided to follow them.  Or at least we tried, but we got thoroughly lost, and bent the axel on Marty's bike, and determined that Caleb's bike had no brake pads left.  We did make it back just in time to get fed the pork cuttlets, and salad and buns at the end of the walk, and it was good that we could stay another night on the river so we could visit the mechanic again the next day, or who knows where we would have been stranded.  Jorja had seen some goats she wanted to pet so we went to see who was herding them.  The woman caring for them was thrilled to talk (in french), and we visited while Jorja tried to feed the goats.  Sylvian shared her dried figs while she worked on her embroidery.  She took us back to the old stone house that had been in her family for 200 years, that was now her barn, and gave us a jar of olives from the trees we were camping under that she had preserved with oranges and herbs.  Marty said he wanted fix the roof of the stone house next door, and she pulled out her cell phone and was ready to call her cousin so Marty could buy the house.  She said we would already have friends, and she would show us how to preserve the olives and make cheese from the goat's milk.

    Marty was set loose in the mechanic shop the next day to fix his axel, but there were no matching brake pads to be found.  I took a taxi with two old ladies 30km into Fundao to a bike shop, there is a bus only twice a week, and got the right brake pads.  They may be projected to last for years, but really, with the hills we have seen since, I should have bought an extra set!  We left town at 4:30 and headed out ready to climb out of the river valley in pursuit of Piodoa, which had been the image Marty had seen of Portugal and needed to see.

    We climbed up the steepest paved roads we have seen yet, and pushed our bikes up some stretches.  There may be many towns on the map, but we have learned, that we need to ask ahead of time if we can buy bread and milk and wine.   This was one such day when the town at the top of the ridge did not have a little store.  An old lady gave us some water and cookies for Jorja, and then we ate fruit and granola bars around our fire.  As the light was fading, a car came up the trail, and were worried that we were blocking the road.  A voice called out, and it was a man who we had talked to earlier about his bees, and Marty had asked if he had a bottle of wine in the car.  He had come up to see us with his daughter and brought a bottle of wine.  Sam, didn't even drink!  He is a fine carpenter, and an amature geologist, who could live anywhere, but loves the rural life of Portugal.  We talked in a mix of translations between english, spanish, french and portugese.  We are loving meeting the people of rural Portugal.    Read more

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