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Greek Odyssey and more!
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Greek Odyssey and more!

A 63-day adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 9, 2024
    SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    up,up we hiked walked to the church.
    looking down at the forest we hiked through: Acropolis to the leftBob at the bell towerfrom the topOlympic stadiumRoman bathslittle church yard beside the big churchBridge between Rio and Antirrio leading toward Preveza1Captain Bob on Sea la Vie

    Travel days

    April 9, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We arrived in Athens after 2 flights and 1 crazy passenger in front of us who expected to have a row to herself until the flt. attendant asked if she'd bought all 3 seats - no; then she threatened Bob and pummeled his seat because his knees touched her seat back. Bob spoke to the flt. attendant who thankfully moved her! Whew! We wandered Athens with a hike/walk up to a church then over to the Acropolis Museum to look at more ancient rocks and statues. The weather is fabulous with a clear blue sky, 25C and windy. We hired a car and drove from Athens to Preveza on fabulous highways but alot of tolls. Lovely scenery with scrubby mountains, lush forests, farms, orchards, lakes and the blue Mediterranean. The boat has been on land all winter and she is a bit dirty but it's lovely being aboard in the sun and listening to all the whistling, clanging, howling. A few days to get organized. Stay tuned...Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    1Bob in the hole

    So long, farewell...

    April 11, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 45 °C

    After deciding 2024 would be our last year sailing in the Mediterranean, we have accepted an offer and sold Sea la Vie. We had hoped to sail again but now we are sorting and packing our belongings. It's incredible the amount of stuff we have squirreled away on 37 feet!
    Our plan now is to drive around the Peloponnese, ferry hop to the islands, perhaps take a jaunt to Istanbul and maybe rent a boat for a week or so. It will be a different sort of adventure but I'm sure full of beauty, challenges, education, frustrations, enlightenment, joy, and perhaps, with fewer moments of terror, although Bob's driving of a standard car is somewhat rusty and does not eliminate the threat of running aground!!
    Ex bono in melius (from good to better).    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Nicopolis
    "island" in the streamaqueductBridge of Arta

    Archeological sites

    April 11, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We are still living on the boat which is on land in the marina. We are amidst the millions of dollars worth of boats of all sizes, shapes, and styles. There are a number of people working on their boats including the Australian couple we met last year in Sarande! Behind us is a South African couple. Apparently only a fraction of the boats will actually get put in the water!
    I enjoy being on the boat even though we have to climb up and down a ladder to use the facilities. The birds sing to us morning and night. There's even one making a nest in the boom of a neighbour's boat! Herons fly overhead. The sunrises and sunsets are lovely and the weather is beautiful . We'll stay on-board until all is finalized. In the meantime, we're driving around the area visiting historical and archeological sites. The countryside varies from craggy scrubby mountains to lush farmlands, groves of olive trees, lemon trees, wetland marshes, rocky gorges and the blue Mediterranean.
    Even though Bob is no longer a Captain of this ship, he still putters around, climbs down the "hole" and checks the sails. It was to my detriment when he swung the boom over as I climbed up the ladder and CRACK - my head! I won't miss the bumps, lumps and brain bruises (as Nick calls them)!In spite of my lumpy head, we set off to visit Nicopolis, a city founded in 29 BC by Octavian in commemoration of his victory in 31 BC over Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium. We walked amongst the ruins and marveled at the remains. The theatre was next but it could only be viewed behind a fence and scaffolding. Searching for a Roman villa sent us on a wild goose chase and we ended the search after driving kms. out of our way. Next we drove up the mountain along the rocky gorge to the Roman aqueduct. There was a lovely park and stream where we startled a frog into a wild leap into the fast current, never to be seen again! We finished our day with dinner in Preveza on the boardwalk then back to the boat. A lovely sunset ended the day.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler

    Lefkada sights

    April 12, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After our coffee and breakfast in the cockpit listening to the marina waking up: birds chirping and flapping, people chatting, and tools whirring, we set off towards Lefkada. We had sailed there last year. We took the old road through the country and up, up then down along the salt marsh where we saw a flock of flamingos so Bob quickly turned off on a dirt path. We walked across a wooden bridge to the outer beach then drove back onto the main road and across the lift bridge we'd had to wait for last year, twice! Easy peasy this year! We drove the sea side around to the town then parked and got our bikes out and rode through and around the Levkas. There is a massive marina and there are lovely pedestrian streets and alleys, churches, shops and restaurants. After lunch, we set off down the coast along the channel we'd cruised last year. Dipped my toes then drove to the other side of the island driving up into the mountains and down to the fabulous Pefkoulia beach. The roads are full of S bends and even sharp switchbacks with not much turning room, especially with oncoming traffic. There are lots of rock falls with either netting or barriers at the bottom of the cliffs but still somewhat alarming. The drivers are fast but not crazy and they are patient with the slower pokes! Bob has done very well with the standard shift even on the tight mountain corners. I'm not quite as white knuckled as last year in the mountains of Albania when Bob didn't know how to reverse!
    We got back to the marina in time for thé sunset. A lovely day seeing the "inside" of Levkada.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    hike through Melissa Gorge
    view from above to Nydri & Tranquil Baylemon treeswim at Nikiana Beachhermit crab

    Mountains & beaches

    April 14, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On Sat., we decided to go back to Levkada to explore the mountain villages. Our car has a navigation system but trying to input destinations has caused a few choice words 🤬both at the computer and each other! Sailing navigation is easier with the whole sea, not narrow, winding roads and lanes leading to dead ends requiring multiple turns and reversals! 😬 Of course docking Sea la Vie has also had its challenges!
    The scenery as we went up, and up some more, was gorgeous with fertile valleys below and forested mountainsides. Fortunately, there isn't a lot of traffic so we can go at a comfortable speed on these zigzag roads. At least they are paved, unlike our Albanian experience! After poking through traditional villages, we went down to Nydri and revisited Tranquil Bay from the land side with a walk along to the church at the point. It's where we anchored twice during the thunderstorm ⛈ last Oct.!
    On the way back to Levkada town, we stopped at Nikiana Beach and I had my first swim! The water was lovely with a slight refreshing bite as the air temp. is averaging 30C!
    The sailing season hasn't started so we are finding that most shops and restaurants are still closed from last Nov. and there are very few tourists. The restaurants that are open are very welcoming, accommodating, and friendly. When we returned to the same restaurant in Preveza, the server remembered us and brought us tzatziki, olives and a 2nd glass of wine "on the house"!
    Yesterday (Sunday) was a slower day as we were sorting luggage and trying to gather info on the airline cost of our baggage. 🤯 We are also planning what to do with luggage as we traipse around Greece and Turkey.
    We went into Preveza and traveled along the sea stopping at lovely beaches. We talked to some lovely families with young children who were playing in the waves and building trenches and castles. A 4 yr. old from Poland and I showed each other the beautiful rocks we'd found and as we walked away, he ran after us to give me his rock. 🥰
    Back to our beach, had a swim and a doze on the sand then wandered along the promenade for dinner. Busier here in Preveza but still fairly quiet. A talk with the kids ended our lovely day.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Vonitsa waterfront with Church Island in the distanceVonitsa Castle

    Preveza, Vonitsa and beach cows...!

    April 15, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Who knew cows go to the beach too! We'd seen the herd on the country road near the marina but woke up and heard the herd and wouldn't have been surprised to see them under our boat! We got on our bikes to ride around the 3 marinas here to look at the millions (billion?) of $$ in yachts and equipment. Saw a few boats that we'd seen in our travels last Oct. then to the beach outside our fence and there were the cows cooling their hooves! Watch out for the the cow patties on the sand!
    We decided to take a short drive down the south side of the Ambracian Gulf to Vonitsa. We had to take a detour after coming upon the aftermath of a horrific car-motorcyle crash. We went to the beach to clear our heads and to give the authorities time. We later proceeded along the rolling country roads. We wandered among the ruins of Vonitsa Castle and to the waterfront where we saw the Aussies who were docked there! They invited us aboard their catamaran and we spent time yakking. We joked about who was following (stalking?) who! After leaving them, we drove along the waterfront to Church island, crossed the pedestrian bridge and wandered a path around the island amongst the pine forest. A beautiful sunset to end the day and a time to reflect how fortunate we are.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Take us to the Villa please!
    Flock of flamingoes1Dance of Zalongo1

    Marshes and monuments

    April 17, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a day of not much doing except watching a NATO surveillance plane circling and flying over us all day, we decided on Wed. to take a trip to the Amvrakikos Wetlands past Preveza. Rather than take the longer route towards the Aqueduct, we turned off to a side road which again lead us to the Roman Villa. We did see the ancient olive press and baths but the Villa remains elusive! We followed some cows but it seems they led us astray so Bob maneuvered a narrow turnaround and we continued on our way. The gravel road along the shore seemed to get narrower and closer to the water, and was strewn with fallen rocks from the cliff along side us. I saw a few water fowl but not the pelicans I was hoping to see. We stopped at the Monastery of Pania Rhodia and from there the road was paved and 2 lane. We passed another flock of flamingos and once we were in the small town saw a stork/heron? sitting on a huge nest atop a pole! Very regal with a multitude of small birds flocking in and around the nest. The wetlands were beautiful but disappointing in its lack of birds.
    I've resorted to using Google maps on my phone rather than the 🤬 NAV in the car so we were able to find the route to the Monument of Zalongo this time. It is up the mountains and atop a cliff. It commemmorates the mass suicide of women and children in 1803 in order to be free of Ottoman ruler, Ali Pasha, whose house we saw at Vonitsa Castle. We climbed the 410 steps up the cliff to see the Monument, a small church and the gorgeous view. It's called the Dance of Zalongo because they danced before throwing themselves off the cliff. 😭🤯
    We stopped in Preveza for a walk along the harbourfront and a late lunch/early dinner at a quiet but lovely place with singing birds, hanging baskets, and cats. When the plane again flew overhead, the restaurant owners advised it was practicing and that there is a NATO base nearby. Who knew?!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Pelicans!our very kind boater

    Final days on Sea la Vie 🥰🙂😥

    April 19, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Thursday was spent relaxing on the boat watching our neighbours busily painting, drilling, fixing! Ah, the life of a boat owner! We technically were still owners but the deal was not yet sealed with money in the bank so we relaxed. We had some rain later but then it blew off in time for a walk to the family restaurant where we were rewarded again with another dessert! More rain in the night.

    Morning coffee in the cockpit with a sunny sky and we decided to make a 2nd attempt at seeing pelicans in the Wetlands but at a closer area. We had to leave the car after attempting a gravel lane full of potholes, mud and lakes after the rain so we wandered down on foot crossing into private property. A fellow came out and I showed him where we wanted to go. His English was limited and he initially showed us the path then he offered to take us in his dinghy! We hopped in and he motored towards the pelicans which took flight as we neared. He told us there are huge snakes🐍 on the little islands and the water is only about 2 metres deep. After motoring around a short while, he dropped us at a bridge and we walked back along the path. What kindness and generosity!
    We drove back to Preveza and bumped into the sales broker. Bob advised if the $ was not in the bank, the deal could be off or we'd extend it with penalties. He seemed convinced the money would come and sure enough, when we got back to the boat mid afternoon, the $ was in the bank. It started to pour - a good day to not have a boat! The broker came and we sealed the deal. 🙂😥 He said Bob should be a negotiator!
    It continued to pour for a number of hours with lightning⛈ too. My concern was needing the bathroom but not wanting to go down the ladder in the pouring rain! Eventually the rain stopped but we now had a lake under us and at the foot of the ladder! Bob wondered if we'd be floating soon! He was able to go on the boat beside us and move the ladder to higher ground. What a relief! I was determined not to have to use it in the night!
    It was cool enough that we turned the heater on only to have the electricity conk out due to the rain. So our last night on the boat was cozy under extra blankets and also a reminder of other challenging (hail🌨, rain🌧, wind🌬💨, waves🌊, rocking, swinging, cold🥶 ) nights! Ah, the joys of sailing! I will/won't miss it!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    road hazards!stampede! Shepherd on a motorcycle!bridge between Rio & Patras

    After Sea la Vie...

    April 20, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    When we packed up and left Sea la Vie, it was a glorious blue sky, sunshiny morning with a few scattered tears. We left most of our belongings in storage at the marina until we fly home and drove to Pyrgos. We took country and coastal roads, twisting and turning with gorgeous views of mountains, turquoise water, islands, small villages festooned with gorgeous flowers, and a few road hazards: goats coming off the rocky cliffs to cross the road and a flock of sheep stampeding toward us! Instead of driving over the magnificent bridge between Rio & Patras, we took the ferry! A short ferry trip, got a bit lost and then to Pyrgos. Nothing special there except a good pizza dinner and it's close to Ancient Olympia, the site of the original Olympic Games.Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    javelin, discus area
    bath with mosaic floorchurchisland surrounded by a swimming pool and rooms around itremains of Temple of ZeusGate into sprinters' race area1lone competitor: Olympic gold medalist!

    Ancient Olympia to Kalamata/Mani

    April 21, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Started the morning at our less than adequate hotel with exploding coffee! Not a good start but I mopped up and we cleared out, picked up pastries and coffee and drove the short distance to Ancient Olympia. The town is beautiful with small hotels, cafes and shops- definitely a tourist spot, and tour buses! We drove up and around twisty roads only to come down again to the archeological site. Fantastic remains of the area for javelin, discus, baths, Temple for Zeus, rooms, pool and the gate to the runners area. The first race was only 200m. and gradually it was extended. People sat on the grass hillside except officials, and dignitaries, of course. The museum was wonderful with statues and artifacts. After about 4 hours it was time for lunch! We ate at a café, wandered along the main street then set off for Kalamata along the coast and inland over the mountains. The roads are paved, some better than others, 2 lanes barely, and a lot of twists, turns and switchbacks. Bob has done an amazing job of driving a stick shift on these roads while I white knuckle navigate advising when sharp, twisty turns are coming, in some areas, one after the other! We came into Kalamata and decided we'd go a little bit down the Mani Peninsula and stopped at a lovely place on the sea. The welcoming man on reception showed me a studio-big room with kitchen, (empty) pool and deck, view to the sea and best of all, hot water!
    The weather seemed to be changing with what appeared to be fog or haze...the Sirocco winds were coming!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    weight lifting with cannonballs!too heavy!

    Pylos Fortress

    April 22, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    We had a delicious breakfast on the pool deck overlooking the sea, then set off to go down the other coast to Pylos Castle. It's only about 50 km. but it usually takes us twice as long on the narrow mountain roads! Other drivers are faster but respectful and Bob pulls closer to the edge 🤯😬 to allow cars to pass. Oncoming cars pull over too so there aren't any near misses. Some like to pass close to a curve so it's a bit tense momentarily!
    Pylos town has a lovely harbour and its town square was busy and once again, tour groups of kids were at the fortress. The fortress had good views all around but the highlights were the small museums of artifacts found underwater. Amazing discoveries of settlements.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    1
    infant bones buried in a jar in MethoniGrave giftsMethoni Fortress

    More Pylos and Methoni

    April 22, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Pylos Castle is one of the best preserved fortresses in Greece built by the Turks in 1573. This castle was a reinforcement for the south-west top of the Ottoman Empire, and the Turks thereby obtained safe harbourage against a seaborne foe.
    The Castle of Methoni is a medieval fortification. The castle of Methoni occupies the whole area of the cape and the southwestern coast to the small islet that has also been fortified with an octagonal tower and is protected by the sea on its three sides.
    Methoni was only a ahort distance from Pylos but oh, the Sirocco wind was howling! It was a warm wind but so strong. Glad we weren't sailing; we did see 2 boats though, surfing along, sails down! We'd planned to have a picnic on the beach but ended up eating in the car watching a kite surfer zip back and forth. The sky was becoming grayer/hazier and we decided we'd had enough castles so we headed back to our hotel. When we got back we had dinner on the beach (enclosed) but couldn't see across the bay. The Sahara sand was blowing in!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Sahara sand!
    road hazards!Sirocco wind blowing1Sparta's Sirocco sky

    Diros Caves, Sirocco winds

    April 23, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After yesterday's wild wind at Methoni, we woke up to find our car covered in Sahara dust and sand from the Sirocco wind! The wind 🌬💨continued throughout the day so the trees were whipping about and the sea looked wild.🌊 Glad we weren't on a boat! The drive south to the Diros Caves was 90 kms and it took us 3 hours! The coastal and mountainous roads were narrow and full of twists and turns through small villages. In one village we had to reverse to find a space to allow oncoming traffic to pass us! We arrived at the Caves with 20 minutes to spare before the next tour so it was time for a snack only to discover Bob had left the food bag back at the hotel reception when paying the bill!
    🤯🤬
    The Diros Caves were discovered by a local fisherman in the early 1900s. Cave divers have continued to explore and map it. To date, 14,700 meters of routes have been mapped. Most of the Cave is located below the surface of the water. The Caves are full of stalactites and stalagmites to a depth of 80 meters. Fossilized bones from panthers, hyenas, lions, deer and ferrets, and the largest deposit of hippo bones in Europe, have been found in the cave. Our little boat trip through was less than 2 kms but spectacular! We chatted with a couple after who are traveling in their motorhome. They came from the Netherlands and are wandering about. They advised that the road to Sparta from the Caves was a good 2 lane highway - whew! They recommended staying in Mystras instead of Sparta. We set off after stopping at a market for a snack, ate in the car with the wind whipping about then made the 55km trip in an hour! It felt like we were race car drivers compared to the morning's trip! We arrived in Sparta where there were no hotels available and it was a construction zone so we drove down the road to Mystras, a beautiful village nestled below the Byzantine castle and Monastery of the 15th century, and booked into a guesthouse with a friendly owner/ hostess. Dinner and a stroll around the village with a view to the next day's climb to the top ended our long day!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    to the top!
    former Monastery, now a convent with cats and flowers well cared for21drive to Monemvasia, up and overMonemvasia, another mountain fortress to climb1my dinner companion

    Mystras climb to Monemvasia swim

    April 24, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Mystras Palace is the site of a Byzantine town of 3 levels with the Palace at the top. A former Monastery is in the middle and it is now a working convent! A number of other churches on the way up too. The path up was rocky, with some stone stairs, and was quite busy with tours-students and seniors. The view from the top was spectacular as the Sirocco winds had abated and the sky was mostly clear. Kids were clambering on the ledges 😬 and when Bob was taking off the backpack, I had visions of our passports falling into the gorge below! The whole walk was over 4 kms. with the trip down being a bit more challenging on the well worn, somewhat slippery rocks. We made a pit stop in Sparta to see the statue of Leonides, King of Sparta and to pick up some food and drinks. The drive SE to the coastal town of Monemvasia was on a good road between hills and mountains and we made it there in good time to have some beach time and a refreshing swim for me! The water was definitely colder than on the other coast but lovely. The view from our room was of the island mountain fortress and the sea. Beautiful. We walked along the shore and had dinner where a lovely cat became my dinner companion. The server said it's because I have a good aura... Cats are everywhere in Greece, mostly strays but some are friendly, some are skittish, they are clean and appear to be cared for.
    Lulled to sleep with bells and waves lapping.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    road leading from the mainland town to the fortress
    one way of moving goods!late morning sailboat heading into the harbourCaptain Bob checking his compassnot at the top yet!one more stretch to reach the top1from the top!

    Monemvasia- a 6th century fortress

    April 25, 2024 in Greece ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Not much can beat coffee on the balcony or cockpit of a boat watching the sun rise over the sea and listening to the birds, waves and church bells if you happen to be close. 🥰 On this early, calm morning, I watched a lone sailboat leave the dock and wondered where she was off to...
    We were land bound so we set off to climb to the top of the island mountain through 3 sections of the Byzantine fortress: lower level a warren of shops, pensions, restaurants, churches and the lighthouse where Bob checked his compass with the one painted on the ground to ensure its veracity😉🤣 ; mid-level with remains of houses and more churches, and at the top, more "piles of rocks" (Bob's description)😅
    The trip was challenging with gravel, rocks, stone stairs and a grassy field to cross and the wind💨 Wow! I thought I might get blown off! We stopped on our way down and sat under a gnarly olive tree to eat some fruit then made our way down, sometimes sitting on the rocks to get a sure footing. Our excursion to the top was over 7 kms! Back at our hotel, we sat on the beach but declined a swim as it was still windy, although it did not deter a young man from swimming and drying off in the sun and wind!
    We drove back over the bridge (which once upon a time had 14 arches, 2 drawbridges and towers at either end) to have dinner in the lower town. Too windy to sit out but lovely just the same.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Nafplion
    blocked in!bell ringer Bobsuper yacht exhibitionbeach where we might have gone swimmingnavigating out from the market!Epidaurus amphitheatrestadium

    Best laid plans...

    Apr 26–27, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After a lovely breakfast and walk along the sea, we headed north from Monemvasia to Nafplion past orange and olive groves, a fig orchard (only one we've seen as they just seem to grow wild everywhere!), mountains and valleys. We had a series of switchbacks coming down to the sea across from Nafplion, then around the top of the bay and into town. It was so busy! We found out that with Orthodox Easter and a Yacht show, hotels were booked but we were able to get 1 night. We parked 2 blocks away then wandered along looking at the super yachts and through the old town, had dinner and to bed.
    We decided to move to a hotel in Tolo, a small seaside town down the road so packed up and went to the car to discover we were completely blocked in by a street market! We asked the fellow if we could help move his things to get out, no, there until 3 or 4! Good thing we didn't have a flight! Our plans for Epidaurus and Mycenae were dashed! Nothing we could do but wander Nafplion so we headed up the hill rather than the 851 steps to the fortress, took in the views, wandered down to the beach and along the sea front, and around the point to the yacht show. Mostly power yachts and a few sail boats, one classic yacht where we stopped and chatted. The exhibition was for yacht brokers to enlist the boats for charters, not lowly peons like us!
    We decided to get things from the car- swimsuits, books and head to the beach. When we arrived at the car, we realized 2 cars beside had somehow gotten out so now it was our turn to negotiate! The market people turned out to be helpful moving bins, and hanging clothes and directing Bob through the narrow passage forward, reversing and turning while I walked in front clearing things and people! When we got out, I felt liberated! Bob did an amazing job with the standard shift saying he wouldn't have been able to do it on the first days with the car! All the switchbacks and tight corners paid off! Since it was early afternoon, we checked into the hotel in Tolo and went off to Epidaurus which has the ancient healing centre and an amphitheatre that is still used today! Fantastic acoustics and in ancient times could seat 14000 in and around! Disappointing archeological site though as it's overgrown and has scaffolding to repair but the theatre was worth it.
    The best laid plans sometimes change and work out!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Agamemnon's tomb
    dome of the tombCitadel of MycenaeGrave circleLion GateHercules (in Argos)looking towards Corinth from hotel in Loutraki

    Mycenae, Argos, Loutraki

    April 28, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The tombs of Agememnon and his murderous wife, Clytemnestra were fabulous! Each a huge cavernous space with a side room and built in a dome/honeycomb shape. We climbed to the Citadel of Mycenae passing through the Lion Gate, the oldest monumental relief in Europe, built in 1240BC. It's miraculous that pottery has been found intact or that pieces have been reconstructed! Painstaking work but rewarding in its accomplishment!
    We drove back to Argos for lunch, decided not to stay and drove to Corinth but went along the coast a few kms. to Loutraki and checked in to a hotel with a lovely sea view of Corinth and the opposite shore. It was very windy so gave up having a swim and instead watched windsurfers zipping along in the bay until after the gorgeous sunset.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    doggie navigators!Temple of HeralighthouseNorth end of Corinth canal at Loutrakibridge over Corinth canal from Loutraki1Corinth canal1honeymoon suite 🤣🤪

    Loutraki to Izmir 🚗🤪🤯🤬🛩

    April 29, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Bob the (failing) barista declined to get coffee to have on the balcony so we went for breakfast then walked the neighbourhood and along the beachfront before checking out. Our flight to Izmir wasn't until 4:30 and the time to the airport was just over an hour, supposedly, so we had plenty of time...
    We drove along the coast to the lighthouse and the ruins of the Temple of Hera. Gorgeous view and we could see the entrance to the Corinth Canal in the distance. On our way back, we picked up an elderly man hitchhiking from his village inland. He didn't speak or understand English but said something when he wanted out in Loutraki. I wondered how he'd get home again...
    It was around noon and we made a quick stop at the Corinth Canal, at first peering over the side but wouldn't/couldn't get closer 😬 to see the bottom and decided to see it from the bridge; we walked across. What a marvel! The colour of the water is spectacular!
    We set off for Athens Airport with time to spare. Not! We got lost trying to get to the off-site car rental. Bob kept driving while I, like the GPS in the car, kept "recalibrating"! 🤯 We went through the tolls going both ways 🤪 and finally called the car rental to get them to direct us. Bob used his skills with the standard shift to reverse, u-turn, speed up, stop, 🤬, while I read out road signs to the fellow on the phone! We made it to the car rental just before 3 and got on the shuttle to the airport, hoping for no glitches at passport control and security. Haven't not eaten since breakfast, we scarfed down some snacks and Bob used his skills to open the beer bottle with nail ✂️! We boarded the plane and breathed a sigh of relief, until we took off and the plane dipped and bumped until we reached altitude. A few more glitches buying train tickets into Izmir and finding our hotel but when we arrived, we were "upgraded" to the honeymoon suite 🤣. At first glance, lovely and eclectic/gaudy in decor, but as the saying goes, all that glitters is not gold. We'd arrived in Turkey!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Navigator Bob checking the compass.
    1sweet shop

    Izmir, Turkey

    Apr 30–May 2, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After experiencing the weird 🤪 and not so wonderful 🙄honeymoon suite, we switched hotels and wandered about Izmir. The market bazaar was teeming with people and vendors selling everything from toenail clippers to fish, fruit, fabric, oars, guns 🤯, and wedding dresses! So many wedding/formal shops! The fish and meat mongers had it all laid out, in the heat, with no ice or refrigeration, occasionally watering the fish with a watering can! I wonder how they can sell it all and what do they do with it at the end of the day? Sell it the next? 🤢
    We went to the ancient agora founded by Alexander the Great, more rocks, columns, arches and an interesting cemetery.
    The next morning we went to pick up train tickets for Istanbul to Plovdiv, Bulgaria which couldn't be done online. It took 1.5 hrs. of patience, frustration, translations, price changes, even drawings of stick people and circles to represent sleeping compartments for 2 pairs, 4 people 🤯. We think we have the right tickets...well find out next week!
    It was May Day, their Labour Day holiday, so there was music, marches, dancing and crowds! The police presence was somewhat alarming as there were traffic, riot, Izmir police plus helicopter and boats! It all seemed quite civil and celebratory so I don't know why there were so many police. Back at the hotel we sat in the lobby where we were treated to tea and strawberries. We have found both Greek and Turks are generous with food offerings 🥰. The drivers are fast, and motorcyclists drive anywhere so you have to be on guard, even on sidewalks! A fellow at the hotel had been knocked over and was off to the hospital! I am surprised at the lack of English, particularly with people in the tourist industry - hotel reception, tourist info, train ticket personnel! Thank goodness for Google translate app!
    Izmir is like any big city, busy, dirty, with a few highlights,- museums and parks. Lots of mosques and loud calls to prayer 5 times a day starting before 5 a.m.!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    our lovely oasis
    Goat herder11stork nests atop the columns

    Selcuk

    May 2–5, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left Izmir and traveled by train arriving in Selcuk after 1.5 hours. Storks nest on every available Greek/Roman column! We had a short walk to the hotel situated below the castle but on a street that had families, cats, tractors, and a small shop; somewhat run down and I thought we couldn't be in the right place but came upon the small hotel, a beautiful oasis! Gorgeous flowers, welcoming hosts, a beautiful blooming courtyard and sparkling pool, and a lovely room. A far cry from our "honeymoon" hotel! We settled in then set off walking to visit ancient Ephesus stopping to talk to an English couple who had worked for the army in Colchester and had visited a cousin in our home town Hamilton a number of times! Small world 🌍!
    We took Googles short cut 🤪🤣, through a farmer's orchard, meeting a man and his goats🐐, with the mama goat trying to herd Bob! After a few nonsensical bureaucratic issues, we entered Ephesus. I didn't realize how large it is and after walking almost 6 kms. to get there, now we had to tackle the ancient ruins! The remains of the library were impressive; Bob was disappointed not to be able to borrow a book!
    We wandered the ruins, the rocks, the columns, and arches and decided we're almost "rocked out" after all the archeological sites we've been to this trip, and how fortunate we are to do so. We walked back to the hotel, this time along the road which was shorter, and relaxed with snacks and a beer and I swam at the pool. A lovely dinner and browsed some shops chatting with the very talkative shop keepers. A tiring but lovely day.    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    pomegranate treeSaint John's Basilica where he and Mary lived for the remainder of their livestomb of Saint Johnlooking towards Ephesus from the castle. Walked from the left of the mound around the back to hotel.Ayasoluk Castle ruins above our hotel in SelcukAyasoluk Castle ruins above our hotel

    More Selcuk

    May 3, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We had a lovely day, with a little less walking, visiting the remains of Saint John's Basilica, the castle ruins and the Ephesus Museum. We ate dinner under a grapefruit tree then bargained with the uncle of the server who had an inventory of tiles, carpets, trinkets, and jewelry in 3 different shops! It took all our energy to escape with our money still in hand!Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    into Antalya
    view from our airb&bKathie testing the watercouple of lounge lizardsHadrian's Gate, old AntalyaRoman harbourold AntalyaKathie coming up from the harbour

    A Turkish miracle!

    May 6, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After a couple of days visiting Selcuk, Kusedasi, and Izmir (again), we flew to Antalya. The mountains were a spectacular sight! We were to meet our friends Kathie & Larry and the airb&b host at a hotel a block from the apt. Bob & I arrived at the airport and took the tram to old town but it was not where the hotel was! We ended up taking a taxi because the bus drivers seemed not to know their routes or how to read Google maps when I showed them where we needed to go! 🤯🤬 Meanwhile, I received a cryptic message saying Kathie & Larry had to rebook their flight from Istanbul and would arrive later. Fortunately, I had the # for the airb&b host, who didn't speak English except to say, "Text",so I did advising that K&L were late but we'd like to be let in. It was an interesting set up: we registered at the hotel, and a hotel person walked us to the airb&b down the street! After dropping our bags, we walked down to the beach and picked up drinks and snacks in anticipation of K&L's arrival. K&L arrived at the airb&b exhausted and thankful. What had happened was Larry's phone was left in a taxi at Istanbul airport so they went to the police and after a couple of hours, the police returned the phone! It's beyond belief how the police found it considering the phone was on silent and K&L had no info on the taxi! With only a phone # and Larry's passport info, the policeman tracked the phone down! Miraculous!
    By this time, they'd missed the first flight so booked another and arrived needing the snacks and a drink!
    The next day we walked the beach, took the bus into old Antalya (as it turned out the bus Bob and I could have taken upon arrival! 🤪) wandered the streets and had a wonderful meal. A good start to the shared holiday!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    Bob, Kathie, Larry at hotel pool
    Pamukkale travertinesfather goosedinner in Pamukkalehot air balloons in the very early a.m.Pamukkale travertineHieropolis amphitheatre (Pamukkale)thermal pool - swimming over ruins

    Antalya & Pamukkale

    May 9, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We had a scary and overcharged uber to Antalya bus station. There was no seat belt for me 😬in the middle so I linked arms and braced my foot. I thought if we were in an accident that perhaps I'd only have dislocated shoulders! 🤯 The driver wanted to communicate but kept using his phone to switch languages while driving a very circuitous route. We made it without incident and later got a refund from uber!
    The bus to Pamukkale was tranquil by comparison with coffee, tea and snacks served. Better than some airlines! The geography was beautiful with forests, hills, patchworks of farms, and a drop down the mountain to Denizli where we caught the local bus to Pamukkale. We ended the day with a swim and dinner in a garden. Lovely.
    Pamukkale features magnificent white travertines with thermal water creating shapes similar to frozen waterfalls and small terrace pools.The ancient ruins of Hieropolis were built above the travertines and on top of the hot springs, and became a thermal healing center in ancient times. We climbed up, wandered around the ruins and museum, then plunged into the healing hot springs, swimming over top of some ruins. Kathie claims the thermal waters healed her finger splinter!
    We ended the day with another delicious dinner with 18 different condiments laid out and where Kathie & Larry's request to taste a wine became a big production of 8 different ones!    Read more

  • SailingSealaVieGreek Odyssey and more!Traveler
    1outside the Blue Mosque
    one of many mosquestombsentrance to the Blue Mosqueour dinner terracedinner terrace with our hotel behind mesunset

    Turkish miracle #2, ugh🤯😬, 😀!

    May 10–11, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We had decided we'd take the bus to Istanbul which meant an 8 hour trip starting with the local bus from Pamukkale to Denizli then the bus to Istanbul. Bob had bantered and joked with the ticket man when we'd arrived in Denizli a few days prior and he remembered us, fortunately... We arrived in Denizli with an hour to spare (better to be early than late) only to discover Larry's wallet was missing! Kathie ran back to the local bus and had everyone helping as she crawled around the floor; the ticket man called the hotel to see if it was there; Bob checked with the bus driver again; Kathie & Larry went to the police. I was in charge of all the bags! The ticket man, who offered me tea and a seat, then called the local bus driver and with his network of drivers, they found it and returned it intact to us! We had 6 minutes to spare before the Istanbul bus left. Whew! Crisis averted again! The kindness of strangers has been amazing!
    The trip to Istanbul ended up being 10 hours and again, a very circuitous route. I thought we'd end up in Bulgaria! It was 10 p.m. so we took a taxi to the airb&b. When he dropped us on this dark back street with graffiti and broken buildings, I was sure he'd dumped us and left. Unfortunately, we were in the right place. Kathie contacted the host and his nephews eventually came down to let us in. We went up 3 flights of stairs to a big apartment with laundry hanging in every room. It was a disastrous place but it was late so we had something to eat down the street and went to bed. Bob had already decided we weren't staying and the dog crap💩 in the stairwell the next morning confirmed it! Bob looked online for hotels and I suggested we contact the host which Kathie did. He agreed to refund us the remaining 3 nights if we didn't give him a bad review🤯 and we were to tell airb&b that we had an emergency and had to leave. We were going to leave anyway, with or without a refund. It will take a couple of weeks for the refund...🙏🤞. Bob found us a lovely hotel in the same district but in a much better neighbourhood. We checked in, were given a Turkish coffee then we wandered around. It was Kathie's birthday so we were up for celebrating her birthday🎂 and the escape from the airb&b! We ate at a lovely restaurant with a top floor terrace and view of the sea. It turned out K&L had eaten there a few years ago!
    A crazy 24 hours but it all ended happily!    Read more

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