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  • Day 413

    Journey Inle Lake to Hsipaw

    February 17, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Some might have noticed that we got a bit stuck at Inle Lake. It is a nice place and the hostel was awesome but also it seemed like we were a bit unlucky with our bus booking, whenever we tried to book a ticket it was sold out which forced us to stay and gave us time to work a bit.
    So I had time to do some small design projects and proceed with my online course in Human Centered Design.
    Finally we got a place in a minivan heading to the small town Hsipaw in the Northern part of Myanmar.
    They stored our backpacks on the roof of the van and picked up more people from different hostels and hotels in town.

    Sold out
    Later departure
    Funny gang
    Cooling tires
    Checkpoint
    Short lunch break
    Travel sickness that turns out to be worse
    Change the bus
    Arrival at Hsipaw
    Most awesome hotel so far
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  • Day 406

    Monk novices and the kittens

    February 10, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today I went back to Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung monastery in the North of Inle Lake - I found the place with its 1000 little buddhas magic and I hoped to take some nice pictures during the late hours of the day before subset.
    Indeed the place looked great with the sun shining through the gates onto the buddhas sitting silently, covered with a red cape in their little pit in the red wall.
    At around 5:00 - 6:00 it was time for the young novice monks to practice their meditation and we just sat with them for a while, listening to them.
    The moment I sat down - with the feet facing away from the buddha (an important etiquette to remember) - a kitten hopped onto my lap, curled itself up and fell asleep.
    A few minutes later my friend joined and just moments later the same situation happened to him. So there we sat - sleeping kittens on our lap, listening to the sound of the young monks voices.
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  • Day 406

    What I have learned about Buddhism

    February 10, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Traveling a country where you can find shiny golden pagodas and stupas around every corner made me wonder about their meaning but also about Myanmar's main religion - Buddhism.
    So almost 88% of the over 53Mio. Burmese are Buddhists:
    Buddhism (87.9%)
    Christianity (6.2%)
    Islam (4.3%)
    Hinduism (0.5%)
    Tribal religions (0.8%)
    Other (0.2%)
    Although we have covered all the world religions in detail in school, I had basically nothing to just a few pieces of that knowledge left. So I have spend a morning to learn more about Myanmar's mayor religion, it's followers and places and practices of worship.

    So here are a few things that I have found out:
    The Three Jewels, also called the Three Treasures, the Three Refuges, or the Triple Gem, are the three things that Buddhists give themselves to, and in return look toward for guidance, in the process known as taking refuge.
    Buddhism believes in reincarnation (rebirth). The ultimate goal of a Buddhist is to get enlightenment (Nirvana) and liberate oneself from endless reincarnation and suffering.

    An important element are the Three Jewels, which are:
    * Buddha, which means The Enlightened or Awakened One, who, depending on one's interpretation, can mean the Historical Buddha, Shakyamuni, or the Buddha nature or ideal within all beings;
    * Dharma, which means The Teaching, which is the Teachings of the Buddha.
    * Sangha, which means The Community, The Community of those great people who have attained Enlightenment, so that those people (Sangha) will help you to attain Enlightenment.

    Buddhists say "I take refuge in the Buddha, the Dharma, and the Sangha." This means that these three things keep them safe. They give themselves up to the community and teachings inspired by the Buddha.

    Another one are the Four Noble Truths, a Buddhist teaching. They show Buddhists why they should follow the Middle Way.

    The first noble truth
    The first noble truth is called Dukkha, which means suffering. It says that life is full of suffering. To say it a different way, in life, there is sickness, poverty (being poor), old age, and death. People can not keep what they want. People can not avoid what they do not want. If that is all a person learns, they suffer.

    The second noble truth
    The second noble truth is Samudaya, which says that there is a reason for the suffering in the world. It says that the reason there is suffering is that people want things. It also says that the reason there is suffering is that people change what they think is real. They do this because they are ignorant. People do wrong actions because they want things and because they do not see what is real. Those evil actions lead to suffering.

    The third noble truth
    The third noble truth is Nirodha. It says that people can be free from suffering when they no longer want things.

    The Fourth Noble Truth
    The fourth noble truth is called Magga. It says that for a person to stop wanting things, they must follow a set of rules. The rules are called the Noble Eightfold Path.

    The Noble Eightfold Path is the path to the end of suffering. It is the fourth part of the Four Noble Truths. It can be summed up in three categories: wisdom (pañña), virtue (sila), and concentration (samadhi).

    Here is a description of the path that is often illustrated with a (steering) wheel:
    1. Right Viewpoint - Realizing the Four Noble Truths
    2. Right Values - Commitment to mental and ethical growth in moderation
    3. Right Speech - One speaks in a non hurtful, not exaggerated, truthful way
    4. Right Actions - Wholesome action, avoiding action that would do harm
    5. Right Livelihood - One's job does not harm in any way oneself or others; directly or indirectly (weapon maker, drug dealer, etc.)
    6. Right Effort - One makes an effort to improve
    7. Right Mindfulness - Mental ability to see things for what they are with clear consciousness
    8. Right Concentration - State where one reaches enlightenment and the ego has disappeared

    So this is where the stupa (Sanskrit: "heap") plays a role - it is a mound-like or hemispherical structure containing relics ( typically the remains of Buddhist monks or nuns) that is used as a place of meditation.
    "The shape of the stupa represents the Buddha, crowned and sitting in meditation posture on a lion throne. His crown is the top of the spire; his head is the square at the spire's base; his body is the vase shape; his legs are the four steps of the lower terrace; and the base is his throne."

    Building a stupa is considered extremely beneficial, leaving very positive karmic imprints in the mind. Future benefits from this action result in fortunate rebirths. Fortunate worldly benefits will be the result, such as being born into a rich family, having a beautiful body, a nice voice, being attractive, bringing joy to others, and having a long and happy life in which one's wishes are quickly fulfilled.On the absolute level, one will also be able quickly to reach enlightenment, the goal of Buddhism.

    In pagodas and outside the stupas one can find all kinds of offerings, that Buddhists place there before their prayer:
    In Buddhism, symbolic offerings are made to the Three Jewels, giving rise to contemplative gratitude and inspiration. Typical material offerings involve simple objects such as a lit candle or oil lamp, burning incense, flowers, food, fruit, water or drinks.

    Within the traditional Buddhist framework of karma and rebirth, offerings lead to the accumulation of merit, which leads to:

    *a better rebirth in the cycle of birth and death
    *progress towards release from suffering.

    These offerings often act as preparation for meditation.
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  • Day 405

    Cycling Tour Inle Lake

    February 9, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Regardless the quite warm weather, my current travel buddy Tak and I decided to rent a bike and cycle for a 35km roundtrip along the Northern side of the lake.
    Once you leave the quite touristic town of Nyaungshwe where we are currently staying the area pretty quickly becomes quite rural. There are moments when you feel like you are send back in time - at least a hundred to hundred fifty years ago from a European perspective. A lot is done by hand and farmers use cows or buffalos to till their fields.
    We cycled through small villages, bamboo forests and then took a small boat to set across the lake.
    I just love the atmosphere in the areas of the lake that are less touristic - the houses are build on stilts and are often surrounded by floating gardens. The owner's boats are parked in front or under the house and people move around in slim, long motorboats, canoes or rowing boats. As so much is done manually and happens on water the whole life of the villagers seems to be hard work but done in a very calm and focused way.
    We had lunch in a family restaurant on stilts that let us observe the beautiful scene around the place - people cooking, washing themselves and clothes in the canal, men crafting bamboo baskets,...
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  • Day 405

    Inle Lake at Sunset and the 1000 buddhas

    February 9, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today I've enjoyed my first Shan or Anaite Massage, to get rid of all the sore muscles that we've got from all the hiking and biking. First I got served some tea, tasting a bit like a spicy chai, then offered the "massage menu" with the different massage styles and treatments they offer.
    I chose the traditional one and was guided to the upper floor, where I got a ginger food bath and then traditional clothes, like a pajama, to wear during the massage. The Anaite Massage, feels a bit similar to Shiatsu and you keep the clothes on during the whole session. The young girl then stepped on my back, pulled up my upper body while standing on my butt, used all her joins - elbows, knees, knuckles - to release any tension in my body. The experience is quite intense but a warm fluffy feeling overcomes the whole body once the treatment is over.

    After that I got a motorbike that brought me to the North part of the city, where the Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung monastery is located.
    The wooden meditation house is already really interesting - constructed of wood and placed on stilts and with big round windows, letting the sunlight brighten the room and the big golden buddha.
    If I would't have read about it before I would have almost mist the small temple filled with hundreds of small buddhas that were donated by local and international pilgrims.
    The patina on the walls and the fact that the whole place isn't perfectly renovated, makes it an amazing photo spot. Usually the place is packed with tourists, but as Myanmar is seeing a drop in tourist numbers this year, there were just about 10 other there.

    The motorbike took me back to the hostel where we almost immediately headed for the next adventure - a sunset boat trip. A motorbike driver asked us to follow him on our bike through the busy late afternoon traffic to a small side channel. We got on one of the long motorboats and headed towards the lake.
    There the fake but still iconic fishermen seemed already waiting for us. As they found better ways to catch their fish than the traditional baskets, the ones
    that can still be found on their boats on the lake are just for the tourists. After a while it felt a bit awkward having them waiting for us to take more pictures and posing in yoga like poses with their baskets for the camera.
    The boatdriver went a bit further, parked the boat on a small patch of water plants and we could enjoy an amazing sunset over the lake and the surrounding mountains.
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  • Day 402

    Hike from Kalaw to Inle Lake Day 2

    February 6, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    After a breakfast with pancakes, cookies and a local sweet that looks like cornflakes pressed into dices we started our second hiking day.
    On day 1 we hiked about 20km and today the distance would be a bit shorter.
    This part seemed also slightly steeper but after a few hours we reached the checkpoint that marks the boarder to the Inle Lake area. Visitors are asked to pay around 8 Euro to enter it and it allows one to stay for up to 5 days.
    After a short coffee break the trek let us trough open fields, over red earth and then through areas formed by volcanos before we could spot the shimmering surface of the lake in the distance.

    The heat and a slightly swollen ankle made me look forward to the boat ride on the lake even more.
    But chats and jokes with our new friends let the time fly and soon we got to the restaurant where we would stop for lunch before getting picked up by the boat.
    The slim, long motorboat then took us on the small channel to the open lake.
    Along the channel but already in the water farmers were planting all kinds of vegetables and fruits in swimming gardens - tomatoes, beans, strawberries,... to maintain the gardens and for the harvest they are moving around in small canoes.
    It seemed like a beautiful working place but loads of hard work.
    The houses around the lake are build on stilts and made of metal, wood or bamboo matts.
    As part of the trip we stopped by local silversmith, weaving and Shan paper workshops also located in houses on stilts.
    The weaving is done by the quite famous long neck
    Although the techniques and the products looked interesting and beautiful it seemed to be mainly a tourist attraction with horrendous prices.
    From the workshops we took off towards the open lake, passing by golden pagodas that are almost build on the water. The lake itself (one of the most famous spots in Myanmar) is full of boats moving locals, goods an tourist across the lake and in between this bustle and hustle fishermen are maneuvering their boats. The traditional boats are moved with an oar that the fisherman operates with his leg. He balancing himself with one foot standing on the edge of the boat. With this method his hands stay free to handle the net and bring in his catch.
    After an exciting day we checked into our hostel - the Song of Travel Hostel - an amazing place in Nyaung Shwe, one of the main towns at the lake and closed the day with bbq, some Myanmar beer and lots of laughter with the funny Belgium guys.
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  • Day 401

    Hike from Kalaw to Inle Lake Day 1

    February 5, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Kalaw, a small town surrounded by hills situated Northeast of the capital Naypyitaw, is the starting point of a range of hikes to and around Inle Lake.
    The amount of tour guides and small agencies that offer their services is remarkable.
    I dropped by a small agency some days earlier and their offer for a two day hike seemed perfect -pick up and transfer to the starting point, transfer of our luggage to the boat station, full board, overnight stay at a family's place and a boat trip on Inle Lake and a group size of max. 6 people. We - a German girl and a Japanese/British guy I met in the beginning of my trip and I - then got picked up by the owner of the agency and our guide for the next days called "Star".
    He turned out to be a real star during our trip.
    A brother/sister team from Belgium who are also on a World trip and volunteering in different places joined us.
    Already the transfer to the starting point of our hike was quite exciting already. We got onto the typical local taxi - a small truck with very simple benches at its load space, tarpaulin to protect from dust, wind and sun and grab handles to avoid that we would fall over on the bumpy roads. We drove by hilltop pagodas, through small villages and over fragile bridges.
    After a 30 min. drive our hike started. It is dry season at the moment, which makes hiking on one hand a bit easier as the ground is solid, but also harder because of the hot temperature and dry air.
    The first few hours of the trail went through dry rice paddies, fields where farmers were harvesting huge ginger roots mostly by hand or with very simple tools.
    Babies were breastfed by their mums in the shade, before getting back to work and toddlers playing under an umbrella out on the field.
    What strikes me most is how (physically) hard working the women are in this country and how the kids are just brought along everywhere - they are on motorbike, in and on top of the fruit seller's stand, in between tons of chilies and playing in the field next to their working family members.
    Our first break brought us to a small village (a spot that seemed to be used by all tours) where we got offered tea and sugar cane candies and could watch an elderly lady weave traditional scarfs and bags.
    The weaving is done on a back-strap loom and the lady needs around 2-3 days to finish one scarf.
    (I loved her fluffy pink earrings that where made of wool oddments)
    The next few hours of the trek went along chili fields. Women where sitting in them surround by bushes full of shiny red chili peppers. The closer we got the stronger the spicy smell got in the air.
    Once the chilies are picked and collected in bamboo baskets, the get brought to the farm house, spread on sheets to dry in the sun, then sorted and sold.
    During the whole trek stark jumped like a little goat in front of the group, singing and joking and then for the lunch break he magically put a home cooked dish on our plates.
    In the afternoon we came across local kids who got very excited about seeing themselves on pictures in my camera, farmers and bamboo basket makers before getting to the small village where we would stay for the night.
    The family gave us a warm welcome and showed us the beds for the night and the bucket shower.
    The husband took as on a very short hike to the top of a close by mountain to watch the sun set.
    It felt like a journey back in time looking down onto the open field - buffalo carriage bringing the harvest to the village, women with baskets on their head and babies tied to their back on their way home, chatting and laughing and all tinted into the reddish light of the sun.
    Once back at the homestay we got served an impressive local dinner that the family had prepared in the meantime with Star's support and starlike cooking skills.
    The small town get dark quickly, as most house either have no electricity or rely on a small solar panel. The low amount of artificial lighting lets the stars (the real one not the guide) shine even brighter.
    After a day in the sun, hiking the hills and load of encounters with locals we hit our pillow at around 8pm. But not before the family provided us with more blankets to keep us warm during the cold night in the small house under a million stars.
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  • Day 397

    A day off from city life in Dalah

    February 1, 2018 in Myanmar ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    City life is beautiful but with the heat it can also be a bit tiring, so when we found a folder in the hostel that was promoting bike trips to the surrounding and more rural areas we decided to give it a go and book a half day trip to a small town called Dalah, just across the river from Yangon.
    Funny enough the guy replies on my booking mail in German. He is an Austrian who has set up a small bike and trek business in Yangon.
    So in the morning after picking up our mountain bikes and helmets and meet our guide who first navigates us through the city traffic, we get onto a ferry who takes us across the river.
    The ferry is mainly used by locals who work in Yangon but live in the town.
    Getting off the ferry we enter another world.
    Although the harbor is full of motorbike taxis and tuktuks the small town feels like 100 years back in time. Small bamboo houses line up next to the road and kids are playing on the streets.
    With the bikes we can take small alleys. Kids are running towards us, saying "Hi" and trying to give us high fives that. Not an easy task when you are cycling while balancing the bike on the small concrete path.
    We stop by a local market to try some rice based snacks and later at a local tea house.
    Tea, introduced by the British, still plays an important role in Myanmar and there are small teahouses on every street.
    After a few hours of cycling we first take a small boat and then the ferry again to get back to town.
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