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  • Fiona Boult

The Camino

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    11

    Day 14 Ages to Burgos

    6 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Amazingly slept well despite a dorm of 8 - turns out that the one man on the dorm didn’t sleep so I guess that’s why there wasn’t too much snoring!!
    Left at 7 just after sunrise. A beautiful morning and a gentle start to the day. The poppies looked as if they had been frosted - they had closed up and were tinged with white on the outside but as the temperature rose they seemed to revive.
    There was a ring of standing stones commemorating the people involved with excavating the oldest human settlement in Europe- should learn more about this at the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos tomorrow.
    A tough section uphill on limestone was leavened by fabulous birdsong and then came to a cross at the top of the hill with views towards Burgos. After that it was all downhill or flat - two stops for coffee at villages on the river Pico and then the scenic route into Burgos.
    This wasn’t brilliantly signposted but we aimed for the river (sadly not deep enough to swim in) and then followed that to the ancient gate into the city which leads to the cathedral.
    The whole place looks unreal (one friend compared it to a sandcastle!) and I can’t stop taking photos.
    Had a drink with Camino friends in the Cathdral square then found our hotel (yes a hotel - 3 of us sharing - bathroom and NO bunk beds!!). Caroline and I found a great vegan restaurant, Gaia, about 5 minutes from the hotel but only open from 1.30-4pm. Food was fab and a huge relief after some adequate but not great meatless meals. Four courses for €14.
    Did some washing as usual and our room currently resembles a chines laundry but it’s drying well in the heat ( room is vv hot and when we tried air con it only produced hot air - complained to the hotel but were told that they don’t activate the air con system at this time of year!).
    Drinks at a tapas bar with friends and now going to sleep - very tired but a good day.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Burgos - not walking!

    6 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Amazingly slept until nearly 9 - I was so tired. Got up slowly for first time and went to join Rachel and Caroline for coffee. But my great flaw, impatience, reared it’s ugly head and after waiting a very long time to be served I decided I might be quicker getting some coffee elsewhere. And amazingly found a great place by the river with coffee and whole grain tostada with olive oil and tomato for €3.50. Delicious.
    Then to the Museum of Human Evolution. Fascinating archaeological finds in nearby Atapuerca (which we had walked through yesterday) of the oldest human settlement in Western Europe.
    Lunch at Gaia again with Caroline and Janice and Rachel - just as good as yesterday - I will miss this place.
    In the afternoon visited the cathedral which was awesome - but not particularly spiritually inspiring (compared to some of the other churches we have visited). However Burgos as a whole is one of my favourite places. Very fun to walk around and beautiful at every turn.
    Sad moment when I realised that I have lost both my sunglasses and my socks. Tried to find them but without success. Everywhere I tried, including last night’s hotel, had not seen them. So had to replace the sunglasses with a very cheap pair and will take very good care of my one remaining pair of socks!
    Dinner with C, Tricia and Rachel at another very good vegan place. I will miss these.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    8th June Burgos to Hornillos - venturing

    8 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    What a wonderful day. Having been led to believe that the Meseta would be bleak, challenging walking, today was a revelation in so many ways. I wouldn’t have missed this for the world.
    Leaving Burgos was flat and close to roads for a while but we were soon out into the countryside again, and a very different landscape to that before Burgos.
    Huge skies and wide sweeping views were breathtaking. And remembering to look behind sometimes gave equal joy.
    Two stops for coffee/ breakfast in Tardajos and Rabé de las Calzadas - coffee great in the second place. Then an emotional stop at a tiny chapel just beyond Rabé where we met Theresa who was greeting and blessing pilgrims. Memorable.
    After this we were on to the beginning of the Meseta - cloudy magnificent skies that seemed never ending. Hard to describe properly - you need to see it.
    Arrived in Hornillos just before a shower of rain. The hostel is peaceful and full of both old friends and new ones. Dinner was paella (with chicken) for 30 (bit they were able to make me a salad to which I added chickpeas and olives from the little store across the road, which was delicious. Followed by yoghurt with honey.
    Right next to a church but I love the sound of the bells - just striking 9 as I write this.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    1

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    9 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Lulled to sleep by a nightingale and woken by a cuckoo - possibly only on the Camino and on the Meseta?
    Slightly wild dreams but was awake just before 6 and left around 6.40.
    Unbelievably beautiful landscapes again and again I’m wishing I could paint. It’s hard to describe how stunning our environs are here. You need to see it for yourself.
    We have been lucky with the weather - not too hot and very little rain today.
    Stopped for coffee at an albergue just before Honteras and then again in the town itself where we met up with Sheryl and Janice.
    Easy walking today with the final stretch into Castrojeriz passing a ruined monastery now run as a very simple albergue by the Canadian Confraternity. I have to stay there next time if I’m lucky enough to be able to do this again. It has no electricity so dinner is by candlelight. No hoy water either - but I can do cold showers!! I’m aiming for it!
    Arrived at our Albergue, Iacobus, which was at the very far end of the town. Hopefully this means a bit less distance tomorrow which at the moment looks like quite a long day.
    Managed to get washing dry despite heavy thundery showers.
    Dinner at the albergue - not very veggie friendly so had to eat fish as a main course but did get a cup of camomile tea at the end which was a bonus.
    Now trying to get an early night as very tired!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    11

    More layered landscapes on the wonderful

    10 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another perfect day of big skies, no rain and warm but not hot temperatures. Castrojeriz to Fromista.
    The Camino provided so many gifts today. More of my treasured layers landscapes, new birds (great reed warbler, stone chat), frogs, 11th century churches and a great vegan albérgue - tho this was at lunch time unfortunately still leaving me with a less than vegetarian evening meal.
    After a steep climb we passed another monastery albergue, this time run by the Italian Confraternity. Tiny and candlelit but not quite so ruined. Again I’d love to stay there if I am lucky enough to be able to walk again.
    Mostly flat earth paths today so easy walking - but totalling about 26 km. Amazingly didn’t feel tired at the end but I’m very tired now.
    Tiny albergue tonight (Vicus) in Fromista but we have our own room.
    Dinner with Sheryl and Janice - great company - food not so much but my fault as I chose wrong.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    1

    Fromista to San Zoilo - Sunday 11th June

    11 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This will be a short entry as it’s very late, I’m very tired and we have a very long day ahead of us tomorrow.
    Today started with a beautiful walk along a river - slightly longer than the regular route but avoiding the ‘senda’ which seems to be the Camino word for a path running right beside a road. Loads of birdsong and very loud front noises made it fun.
    We walked for this part of the day with Sheryl and Janice and I loved hearing all about life and landscapes in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Stopped for coffee (very necessary) early at a little hotel that might be worth noting for future trips and then ate our breakfast at a table in a park a bit further on (our own yoghurts, nuts , fruits etc.
    at about 11.30 we came to the end of the river path and found another cafe at Villalcazar de Sirdo for coffee and delicious watermelon.
    Then came the trickiest part of the day - a long straight senda into Carrion los condes with looming storm approaching from behind us. Very hot and humid and my feet began to get sore so I was very relieved to get to the start of the town where I found a shady bench outside an hermita to change my shoes.
    The town was celebrating Corpus Christi and the street were decorated with rose petals for the parade which included the children who had taken their first communion in May.
    Ate tortilla at a very crowded bar in the square and then headed for our monastery hotel which is about a kilometre out of town.
    Getting clean felt great but I’m really struggling with a large insect bite on my shoulder which is quite swollen and very itchy. When we headed back into town later to join the nuns singing at the Santa Maria Albergue I found a pharmacy open and the pharmacist looked a bit worried and gave me hydrocortisone crème. Doesn’t seem to be working yet but I live in hope!
    After joining the nuns at 6 we went to mass at 7 and then hared back to the hotel for dinner at 8 (the earliest they do). Very very hungry but had a good actual vegetarian meal and feel better now - which is lucky as there’s nothing for 17km tomorrow when we start walking and we haven’t got much food left. Think I’ll be resorting to the energy bars finally! Still, at least my pack will the a bit lighter.
    Huge thunderstorm raging outside at the moment - second one today. We’ve been so fortunate not to get caught in the rain today. Hoping the same for tomorrow.    Läs mer

  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Carrion los Condes to Terradillos de los

    12 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A long quiet day - so I thought I’d write about some practicalities of the Camino.
    The day first: very long (or at least it felt like it), very hot after about 10am and very few services. Although the monastery hotel was great and very comfortable we had a strange moment when leaving as the cold water was running very warm in our room - not great for filling water bottles - so went downstairs to ask reception to fill them for us. But the water there was also warm - not just not cold but actually warm. Then filled from the pilgrim fuente outside the monastery and that was the same - something very weird going on with the water system.
    We had been warned that it would be 17km before we would be able to get anything - including water but in the end there was a brilliant, and very much appreciated by passing pilgrims, good truck with fab coffee and the best tomato toast.
    Then more coffee at a tiny town about 7km further on.
    It was a hard slog after that along a senda to Ledigos. Green juice at the hostel saved my life and it was great meeting up with Rachel again who is to be my companion on the lonely Via Romana for two days.
    Hostal is a bit grim but tolerable - I’ve been spoilt by my night at the monastery.
    Practicalities then: washing is done every day when we arrive using whatever is available. My stuff is almost entirely merino so I don’t really want to subject it to a community wash as I’m worried everything might shrink. Most people wash by hand in any soap that might be provided (none tonight), shower gel, shampoo or face wash. Seem to work okay most of the time. Then I dry stuff either outside - keeping a steely eye on the weather as we tend to have torrential downpours with thunder and lightning every afternoon from about 4. Alternatively I have an amazing travel clothes line which I can usually attach somewhere in the room and the stuff has always dried by the morning.
    Breakfast isn’t usually available by the time we need to leave (usually around 6.30) so we carry with us nuts and dried fruit and sometimes fresh fruit is we’ve found some, together with a slightly fermenting yoghurt that we’ve managed to find the previous day and not been able to refrigerate in our dorm room. This is, to be honest, a great breakfast and we’ve eaten in some wonderful places. It’s always a retired that the pack is a bit lighter afterwards.
    Will write about dinner tomorrow!!!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Terradillos to Calzadilla de los Hermani

    13 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Half way!!
    Today I walked just over 30 km and on the way, at Sahagun, I received my half way certificate at the chapel of La Pelegrína.
    There has been every sort of weather today, sun, cloud, mist and a little rain, but I’m sitting on a terrace outside the hostal (room with Rachel tonight with sheets and towels!!) watching my washing dry - and squeezing the water out every so often to try to ensure it dries!
    The day was long but pretty flat - but I can now just see some mountains to the north which are, according to the guidebook, the Cordillera Cantábrica, an extension of the Pyrenees.
    We left at about 6.45 and reached Sahagun around 9.30. Coffee and wholemeal croissants were delicious and then a bit of a hiatus to try to find the chapel where they give the half way certificate.
    Today was weird in that after Sahagun I separated from Caroline, my constant companion of the last three weeks and headed for the Via Romana - a beautiful and very little travelled alternative route along an ancient Roman road. Other than in the shop in the tiny village where the two routes separate,, where we met a French pilgrim also stocking up on food, we saw no one until we arrived in Sahagun. Very empty countryside and with a storm threatening we were really pleased to arrive at our Albergue without getting too wet.
    It feels very different being in such a quiet place with very very few other pilgrims.
    After much needed and very successful clothes washing and drying we had a pilgrim meal with our four fellow guests Stephanie, another digital nomad originally from Germany, Dominic from France and Jane and Eric from Michigan US. It was so fascinating to meet more new people and to hear about their lives and their experiences on the Camino. I even got a really vegetarian meal! What a day!!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Calzadilla to Mansilla de las Mulas - th

    14 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    As far as I could see there were only the six pilgrims at our Albergue Via Trajana walking the Via Romana today. And of them I only saw two, Stephanie the digital nomad originally from Germany and Dominic from France. Rachel and I had the road to ourselves - silent apart from birdsong.
    The road was not nearly as difficult as we had been led to believe. When we were walking on a Roman road earlier in the Camino it was made up of very large cobble stones but this was much smoother - I think better preserved as the top layer of smaller pebbles was mainly still there and in parts there was also a sandy layer making it smoother and softer on the feet.
    So it was another pretty long walk and, of course, very straight, but beautiful, deserted and quiet.
    We have had an amazing day of weather - no rain or thunderstorms for almost the first time on the Camino. The rain usually starts just after we arrive at our destination of the day but it is a pity that often we can’t sit out in the evenings. Today was different and it is still warm and sunny now.
    After arriving in Mansilla de las Mulas, Rachel and I found coffee and waited for the others to arrive. Sadly no iced coffee which was what I really needed - the caffeine but cold! But so good to sit down. Rachel was developing blisters and I was really tired.
    Unfortunately when the others arrived they had to get on the bus to Leon straight away as there wasn’t another one until 4 so I didn’t get to see them before they left.
    We found out today that Caroline has had a stomach upset - I felt terrible that I wasn’t with her and I’m amazed that she managed to walk after being sick all night. She was well looked after by Nick and Paul tho.
    So then I was on my own. I found some more cherries (the Spanish cherries are amazing - I’ve been buying them almost every day) and went to check in at my Albergue.
    Then went to find the swimming spot I had been promised. It was amazing. My first wild swim on the Camino and worth the wait. There was even a little beach to sit on.
    I really love Mansilla - it seems to be a friendly laid back town - and I’m pleased I chose to stay here rather than moving on to the city.
    Didn’t go out to eat tonight as thought it might be a bit weird on my own but I guess if I was lucky enough to be able to do this again I wouldn’t be guaranteed a companion so would have to get used to that!!
    Planning an early night - once I’ve found an audiobook for the walk along the road into Leon tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon - time to

    15 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Aimed to leave at 6.30 but snoozed my alarm for the first time and then could not fit everything into my rucksack so had to do a complete repack. I bought some cherries and nuts, seeds, yoghurts etc last night and they were just too big to fit in so had to abandon two yoghurts and an energy bar. Sad but very necessary. Even then had half a packet of rice cakes hanging off my pack in a dry bag.
    Finally left at about 7 expecting a horrible walk into Leon. I had been told that it would be 18 km literally on the hard shoulder of a busy A road and was definitely prepared for the worst.
    However, either people were hugely exaggerating or the route has been altered but there was only about 50m of walking with the traffic and the rest was on tracks - sometimes close to the road but never on it and often in what felt like the middle of the countryside - although so close to Leon.
    Stopped for coffee in Puente Villarente at what seemed to be a very popular local spot - and discovered the Leonaise tradition of giving tapas with the coffee - in this case a raisin croissant all for €1.40! Later spoke to one of the helpful policías who explained that this is the custom in the area of Leon - quite rare in Spain. I really appreciated the croissant with my coffee although I had brought my yoghurt, blueberries and seeds. I had to eat a second breakfast later as they were heavy and I was fed up with carrying them.
    Arrived in Leon having got a great view of the cathedral from the hill i approached on. As with any city, initially the outskirts were a bit dull, although I really find any city in Spain fascinating as I spend my time trying to read all the shop signs. But once I passed through the Puerta Monada it was fabulous. Winding streets, beautiful architecture and buzzing with life. A huge contrast to my much missed Meseta but wonderful too.
    Took my time reaching the cathedral by following the yellow arrows and then bumped into Caroline, Rachel and Mike on their way to the cathedral. I felt too hot and bothered and keen to get rid of my rucksack to join them so headed for the hotel, which is right by the cathedral.
    After cooling down a bit and doing a bit of washing, Caroline and I went to the Casa Botines, which is a Gaudi building and the Gaudi museum in Leon. I love Gaudi and it was a fascinating place including descriptions of his techniques (which including the importance of recycling, and sunlight and air in his buildings - which seemed very ahead of his time), rooms set up to look as they would have done when it was built and many rooms of paintings.
    The evening was a celebration of Nick’s 65th birthday. We joined him at the Patio and then went on to eat at an Italian style restaurant and a beautiful square which served huge pizzas.
    It was a long, busy and very enjoyable day but I’m exhausted now and looking forward to a lie in tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Another day without walking - but still

    16 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A day in Leon. Marvellous city with so much to see. After having a coffee (with free breakfast) we went to the Church of San Isadore and the museum that hold its treasures.
    It’s a 10th century Romanesque church; simple and stunningly beautiful. The museum, which is housed in part of the church, has a library of ancient books including a complete bible dating back to the 10th century. There are original 12th century frescos and a chalice, the base of which dates from the 4th century and the gold and jewels embellishing it were added in the 12th century.
    There really was too much to take in and we were not allowed to take any photos but it will stay in my mind for a long time.
    I would really recommend visiting Leon.
    Close to San Isidore we found a lovely little vegetarian shop and restaurant where I had a juice and a vegan empanada - my first empanada as they are usually made with meat or tuna - and possibly my last as the guy in the shop said! Delicious.
    Then to the Correos to post excess kit to Santiago - it feels very good to get rid of stuff at the moment and am concerned about how I will feel when I get home - think I may be inclined to carrying on disposing as it’s amazing how little you need really, particularly when mainly dressed in merino!
    Now sitting at a cafe with an iced coffee (or coffee and ice as seems to be the thing here) before going to the cathedral. Does it get any better.
    Later: well it did. The cathedral is probably the most beautiful place I’ve ever been to (for me just about equals the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona which brought me to tears). As soon as I went into the cathedral I was in tears - something about the delicacy of the architecture and the phenomenal stained glass. I have quite honestly never seen anything like it. I know Gaudi was very inspired by the cathedral and I can see so clearly that this is true. I was struck by everything really, but one thing in particular was the use of light and colour - warm colours on one side and cool on the other - echoed by Gaudi in The Sagrada Familia.
    Spent a long time there and later went to mass in the beautiful side chapel. Then treated myself to a hazelnut ice cream at Holy Cow - recommended by Happy Cow!
    Low point of the day, which worked out okay on the end. Was trying to find something to eat. This city does not open for food until 8.30pm. We tried about four places recommended on Happy Cow which were supposed to be open and either were closed or not serving food til later. Eventually returned to the hotel which has a bar and managed to persuade them to make a cheese sandwich- actually pretty good in the end but by them I was starving and I think anything would have done.
    Reason for the slight urgency was that when in the cathedral I had seen a poster advertising organ concerts in the cathedral. They only take place about every six weeks but there was one tonight - free and no tickets required. I was really keen to hear the organ as it is quite new and apparently very special.
    The concert started at 8.30 and was wonderful. The organist was from Bruges cathedral and he was playing with a disabled woman who plays the pan pipes. This might sound unusual but it was a beautiful concert. Because of her disability she can’t play a regular flute but has adapted flute music for the pan pipes and it was fantastic very accomplished playing. The organ was outstanding - I’m so grateful that I was able to hear it played.
    Late to bed given the need to get up early tomorrow morning but very much worth it. Sitting here with a face mask on (given to me by Rachel) so hoping I will look fab for my walk out of Leon tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Leon to Villar de Mararife - hot

    17 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I was so sad to leave Leon. My favourite city so far. I find that when I am out in the middle of the countryside I can’t imagine walking into the city, or even a big town, but once I’m in the.city, and particularly if I’ve chosen to have a rest day, then I get anxious about leaving for a place where there are only limited options and few people.
    So after walking out of Leon, which was surprisingly quick, I was back in open country and tiny villages with populations of less than 100. I had expected hills after what I thought was the end of the Meseta, but in fact although there were a few gentle slopes, fundamentally I was still in the Meseta - flat plains of wheat and corn and big skies. But much hotter weather than we experienced in the Meseta.
    We stopped for coffee and toast at Le Virgin del Camino - which was not as romantic as it sounded - and then visited a very different church. The architecture was modern, brutalist, but, I thought, very beautiful. Instead of big windows there were almost no windows at all. Surprisingly this wasn’t awful but very moving - not sure I can really describe it. The alter was the only place of colour in the building and was lit, partly by a light well a bit like a chimney, from where light shone down just on this part of the interior.
    Moving on, in increasing heat, we walked to Oncina de La Valdoncina. Where we stopped again for a cold drink in a lovely Albergue with a cool, almost Moorish style interior courtyard.
    On again for the last stretch to Villar de Mazarife - a bit further than we had expected. Very hot walking but we just had to get there. Used Rachel’s Nordic walking technique to spur me along but was very relieved to arrive at our Albergue- San Antonio de Padua. We have a room with shared bathroom and are promised a vegetarian meal - very exciting! All very clean and quite quiet with a great washing line (these things really matter!!). I’m now sitting in the shady garden with a nice breeze blowing. More later.
    Wonderful vegetarian meal tonight with great company. Apart from Alan and Janet, veteran pilgrims (this is their 16th time) from Canada, everyone was new to us. Really enjoyed meeting Raul, a Spanish artist, and his son, Ben and Georgie from Australia and a family from Canada and the US - two brothers and the son and daughter of one of them, who started walking the Camino just before covid struck and had to get out quickly when the Spanish government declared a state of emergency. They have just started again in Leon.
    So good to meet some new pilgrims as most of our friends have either stopped or gone on ahead. Some of them will be at our yoga hostel !’(!) tomorrow evening. More of that tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

    18 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A day of doors and cherries!
    A pretty short day and a fairly unremarkable walk along very straight roads. No stops until about 9km when we had coffee and met up with lots of old friends.
    There is a saying that ‘the Camino will provide’ and we heard about an example of this today from Ramona. Ramona is from Germany and is walking on her own. It’s her second Camino and she is clearly planning many more. She started walking at St Jean in a pair of Asics which soon proved hopeless and she was struggling with bad blisters. She met along the way with two American women, one of whom said she was carrying a pair of shoes she had never worn but really didn’t feel she needed. She offered them to Ramona who found that they fitted her perfectly and were completely comfortable, despite the blisters. They even marched her t shirt. What’s more, the woman wouldn’t take any money for them - and they are a brand new pair of ON’s (the shoes I wear and which I know are really expensive). The Camino certainly provided! (See picture of Ramona with her new shoes).
    We also met up with Anna and Cally who are staying at Albergue Verde with us tonight.
    It really was a short walk - only about 14k.- and we were at our Albergue by about 12.
    This is an amazing place. As I’m writing the most wonderful smells are coming out of the kitchen. We were greeted with a cup of herbal tea and sheets for the bed! It is a dormitory but sheets are a great luxury.
    We had bought a carton of gazpacho for our lunch and had this in the garden, where we met more of our fellow pilgrims. One, Jason, had picked cherries along the way (he had asked the owner’s permission!) and shared these with us and others - before realising that the tree in the garden of the Albergue was also heavy with cherries. We all picked some more - perfectly ripe and straight from the tree; what could be better.
    Then had a tedious but necessary planning session to ensure that we have some places to stay before we get to Samos, from where we are booked up.
    Later we have yoga at 5, sound therapy (!) at 6 and a vegan dinner at 7.30. For me, perfect.
    And about the doors - I just saw so many lovely ones today I had to photograph them.
    Am now in bed in my big dorm having had the most wonderful evening.
    It started with yoga in the yoga studio - what I should really be doing everyday after walking but never seem to get round to. Much more fun anyway with other people.
    And then… a special moment, very very special actually. In the same studio one of the friends of the Albergue gifted us a Tibetan singing bowl session. We all lay down in the circular space, head facing inwards, with instructions just to relax and not listen to the sounds but just let them wash over you.
    I can’t describe this experience - I can only say that I felt incredibly calm afterwards and when I told him how I felt and that I had been ill previously he gave me an extra one to one session. At dinner everyone seemed very quiet - the air of calm had reached us all I think.
    Best dinner on the Camino so far - totally vegan - beetroot hummus, lentil curry with loads of vegetables, salad, saffron rice, wholemeal bread and to finish a vegan cherry cake with cherries from the garden. It’s a donativo for dinner and it’s hard to over estimate how much this whole experience meant to me. I feel very calm and cared for and desperate for this to be only my ‘first’ Camino. I really hope I can stay well enough to do it again.
    So many good experiences. And sorry about the doors but they were very interesting!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

    19 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After dragging myself away from Albergue Verde felt like nothing would be the same -
    And it wasn’t really.
    Howver, a lovely walk with increasingly different scenery to our days on the Meseta. More undulating and greener, with more trees and less sky. Weather was mixed, cloudy but warm and then rain as we came into Astorga.
    First coffee was at Santibañez de Valdeiglesias - advised by Cally (from Albergue Verde) that the coffee wasn’t good, unfortunately listened to another guy who said it was fine. It really wasn’t - pretty i drinkable and very expensive.
    High point of the day, apart from the Palacio Gaudi in Astorga, was the donativo rest area run by David between Santibañez and St Justo. Wonderful fruit, and all sorts of other food as well as places to rest. I satisfied my craving for watermelon and also had a banana - just what I needed at that moment. A very generous place driven by love of the Camino.
    Then continued into st Justo, where I went into a farmacia to see if they could give me something to help with my wrist - think I was bitten by something in the garden last night and it has swollen up - a bit like my shoulder did previously. The stuff they gave me in Carrion de las Condes didn’t seem to be working - this farmacia advised something else. So I’m hoping, but it’s still fairly itchy and swollen at the moment.
    Into Astorga, in the rain, over a crazy bridge!
    Astorga seems a bit run down, very quiet and a bit dull.
    Our Albergue is clean but expensive for what it is and have just paid €17 for a plate. Of rice and beans - which seemed expensive. Basically back to 1970’s UK when vegetarians got the main course less the meat rather than an actual meal. It was fine but a bit boring, even when sliced up with loads of Tabasco. And I felt slightly cheated when we had to pay the same as the people eating loads of meat! But you win some, you lose some, and last night was a privilege, as was the donativo rest stop today, so I’m very happy.
    The highlight of Astorga for me is the Gaudi Palacio. Quite astonishing and I could have happily spent hours in there. Another weirdly emotional place for me - he seems to be an architect that has the power to move in an almost religious way - the chapel within the palace filled me with awe - I would come back to Astorga just to be there again.
    Something in the palace made me think of Healah from RAK, who I haven’t heard from for ages, so I WhatsApped her and she wrote back immediately - that too was a gift and very unexpected.
    Also good was meeting the other (all new) fellow pilgrims at dinner and having a drink with Bart (we met at Albergue Verde) in one of the squares.
    Need to go to sleep now as have to be up early to get to Rabanal to ensure we get places at the Confraternity hostel.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Astorga to Rabanal - into the country ag

    20 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Not a great night’s sleep but manageable. Set off at 6.45 as very keen to ensure a place at the UK donativo hostel in Rabanal.
    On the way out of Astorga I decided it might be worth looking for an alternative option for another time as Astorga didn’t seem like the best place to stay for lots of reasons. However I would definitely want to visit the Gaudi palace again but think I noticed large lockers, which would mean you could leave your bag while you visited and then carry on walking.
    Anyway, at exactly the perfect moment, I came to a lovely little village, Murias de Rechivaldo, which, at about 4.5 km outside Astorga, would be the perfect place to stop. And the. I found the perfect Albergue which looked lovely and has a communal vegetarian meal. Definitely staying there next time.
    The landscape has gradually changed today to become more wooded - although at times I thought that it looked quite like the new forest with gorse and heather. Some lovely villages but now I’m in Rabanal and quite frankly I haven’t seen anything yet to match this.
    The Confraternity hostel is lovely with a huge orchard garden and hospitaleros who are happy to talk about their experiences on the Camino and life as a volunteer. Picked cherries in the garden and hung my washing out and then have wandered off to find some food. Loads of vegetarian/ vegan food round here which is so strange after Astorga where there was nothing.
    We are told that there is high tea at the Albergue and a service with Gregorian chant in the church at 7. Will report back later but it sounds as if I’m going to be busy!!
    Tea in the garden (involving large teapot and lemon drizzle cake) was fab and the sung vespers also a wonderful experience. Then dinner with friends - and now in my bed having scrabbled around in the dark trying to sort my self out. 20 bed dorm with most people already sleeping at 9.30 - I was the dirty stop out this time. At least I’m by the window which is a relief tho there is already loud snoring next to me. Oh dear!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    12

    Rabanal to Riego de Ambos

    21 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    For the first time we had coffee before leaving our accommodation- I was sad to leave Albergue Guacelmo with its lovely English hospitaleros. The reluctance to get on the way was exacerbated by being even more disorganised than usual owing to having to go to bed in the dark and try to sort stuff out in the morning while others were still sleeping.
    Finally left about 7.45 expecting a very steep climb up to Cruz de Fer. In the end it was pretty gentle -coffee on the way at Foncebaden but was glad we stayed at Rabanal as clouds would have meant no magnificent sunrise and Foncebaden did not have the same sort of atmosphere as Rabanal.
    Cruz de Fer was not quite what I expected but we were lucky that it was not too busy and I left my stone, brought from home, which is the traditional thing to do.
    From there I was expecting a steep downhill walk but in reality it was gently undulating for quite a while and the steep part (which was pretty steep with loose rocks and slate) started quite a bit later.
    It was a long tricky descent into El Acebo, where we ate very good cheese baguettes, then down further in Riego de Ambos. Had a moment of stress about whether we should continue into Riego or stop in El Acebo where there was a big modern hotel with both rooms and dorms (only the dorms would have been affordable) but so pleased we came to our Pension in Riego as it’s a lovely family run place. Very simple but we have an amazing view, a balcony where we’re drying our washing and where they made us a delicious meal - including Padrón peppers. There is a cherry tree in the garden that we were encouraged to pick from. Beautiful blush coloured cherries and so many of them!!
    I’m writing this listening to birdsong and looking out at the mountains. Very happy.

    If you watch the video I’ve attached make sure you have the sound turned up!!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Riego to Ponferrada

    22 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A short day today - only 11km - so had a bit of a lie in and set off around 8.30. A very quiet alpine type walk, with some very steep rocky sections, to Molinaseca. Before leaving the Albergue we picked some more cherries from their tree - sadly there were some already beginning to rot on the tree - clearly only pilgrims are eating them.
    Molinaseca is a wonderful little village accessed over a medieval bridge. The architecture of the previous villages of the Bierzo continued with wooden balconies, often covered in geraniums, overhanging the street. As well, there were some very grand houses in this village with coats of arms displayed on their corners.
    Stopped for coffee and toast and met up with Anna and Ramona.
    Then on to Ponferrada, mainly along roads, but nevertheless pretty quiet.
    Our hostal (vegetarian/vegan) is on the outskirts of town. It’s run by a lovely quite elderly couple who were very keen to help us with anything we needed. It’s a dorm but only is at the moment. Hoping we may get it to ourselves but think it’s unlikely.
    After dropping our bagels and sorting ourselves out a bit we are now in Astorga with a glass of the local Bierzo wine.
    Bought more gazpacho and yoghurt at the supermarket so have eaten cheaply and well.
    Later: visited the Templar castle (see very scenic pictures!) and met up with Anna again - also sharing our room at the hostal. Dinner at the hostel was wonderful - for me, vegan, with lentil soup, tofu with vegetables and salad and then an orange - perfect.
    It’s hot now - I actually love the temperature although it means we will have to leave earlier so that we are not walking in the very hottest part of the day. In a way it’s been a bit strange up until now because it’s been quite cool most of the time, with the odd exception, so at last I can see what walking in the heat is like. Another challenge but I’m up for it!
    New people at dinner. As well as Anna there is Paul from Belgium who has walked from Le Puy and a Spanish man who is at the end of a cycle route on the Camino de plata and who will be home in Galicia in two days time. Also a woman from Mexico walking with four South American friends and a gentleman from Japan (he didn’t seem to want to speak and so I didn’t get to practice my Japanese).
    I am very happy and just want this experience to continue.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    1

    Ponferrada to Pieros

    23 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Oh dear - although we’ve got veggie food tonight it feels like a bit of a mistake as a choice of a place to stay as Pieros is tiny and there seem to be only four of us staying. I’m feeling very guilty as I booked it having heard about it from another vegan pilgrim (now helping out at Albergue Verde) and thought it sounded good. Also just a relief to be able to eat something in the evening. Anyway sure it will be fine and we’ve rearranged another similar one that we were due to go to tomorrow.
    The walk today was mainly great - set off at about 6.45 in the cool of the day, and walked out of Ponferrada towards the mountains. Ponferrada is surrounded by mountains and is , I think, a lovely town.
    Walking out we gradually reached the countryside. It’s wine country and so we were walking though vineyards with grapes way more advanced than when we were in the Rioja area. I had been led to expect that it would be a boring walk mainly by roads, but this wasn’t really the case. There was some road walking but also plenty on paths and very quiet roads with fantastic birdsong.
    We were spoilt for places to stop for coffee and when we reached Cacabelos, the fairly sizeable town before the place where we were staying, we had iced coffee (in Spain coffee with an ice cube) and some padrón peppers which were delicious.
    The road to Pieros was a bit hot and lacking in shade but we were welcomed at the Albergue with iced water and after a shower felt much better.
    After working out that it was going to be very complicated getting to a nearby monastery that looked very interesting which although only about an hours walk away felt a bit far in the heat, we have now taken the bus back to town and I am now sitting by the river having had a delicious swim. Definitely the perfect antidote to the heat!!
    A glass of the local rosé wine later the bus miraculously appeared at roughly the right time, if not at the actual bus stop, and we were back at the Albergue in 5 minutes.
    Dinner was interesting. There are just 4 of us here tonight - c and I and two Germans - one of whom speaks no English at all - and neither of us speak any German. He was with us last night too in Astorga at Albergue Alea and both nights he didn’t seem too enamoured of the food. I’m pretty sure he’s staying at Casa Susie tomorrow in Trabadelo, also a veggie place, and I’m sort of wondering why as he’s definitely not vegetarian (this was clear!) and he doesn’t seem to like vegetarian food. But I guess each to their own! He’s very sweet and we all got along well in a non verbal way. Maybe I need to learn German next.
    I’m having a very early night :) as it’s super hot and will be hotter tomorrow so we’re leaving earlier.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    11

    Pieros to Pradela (instead of Trabadelo!

    24 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So today after sleeping really well we left at 6.30. It was already warm but a good walking temperature and the first 6km to Villafranca was quiet and beautiful. The path wound through the vineyards of various bodegas of the Bierzo region until it reached Villafranca. Villafranca is a handsome town and I would love to explore it properly on my next Camino! There’s a castle, a working convent and some lovely churches as well as winding streets and a river in a deep gorge. We just stopped for coffee and for Caroline to charge her phone a bit.
    It was then time to make a decision about our route to Trabadelo. The usual route follows the main road and stays fairly low in The Valley. There are two other routes. One, the Dragona is reputed to be tricky and badly signed and anyway rejoins the main route too late to allow a stay in Trabadelo. The other route is called the Pradela, and rises steeply up out of Villafranca to reach the small village of Pradela before dropping down into Trabadelo.
    I was determined to take this route as I really didn’t want to walk along the road. We had been told that the road route was pretty unattractive as it also follows the A 6 motorway. However Caroline wasn’t sure about taking the steeper route in the heat (it is extremely hot today, even up high). So we had agreed to walk separately if necessary. In the end Caroline decided to walk the Pradela with me as it was still pretty early and relatively cool, and although steeper and a little longer, looked much more interesting.
    It was extremely steep to start with but gradually levelled out and became more undulating than straight up.
    The scenery was stunning and (I think) we were both really pleased that we’d made the choice. Much of the steeper part was in shade so only the last section was particularly hot, and even then we were winding through chestnut groves so in intermittent shade.
    We finally arrived in Pradela around 11. We had been told about the Albergue there by Catherine, one of the hospitaleros at Guacelmo Alberge in Rabanal. She had tried their chestnut cake and said it was amazing. It really was - so we decided to stay for lunch, and that was great too. Chestnuts are the thing round here and the family who run the hostal also use produce from their own garden for the meals. We had goats cheese salad, roasted peppers, yoghurt with chestnuts, a glass of their own red wine and were then given a thimbleful of their home made chestnut liqueur.
    As the Albergue is only 40 mins from Trabadelo (and downhill) we decided to stay rather than going to the municipal - which still means we haven’t been to a municipal yet. But this is so worth it. We are the only people here so have the dormitory to ourselves - as well as everything else. And there are kittens! I’m very happy! And a donkey!
    So have frittered the afternoon away in a very enjoyable way - some sleep, some Duolingo, some chat. Another person has turned up - Matt from Galway in Ireland. He has walked over 40km today and that is his regular distance so it will be one night only as he’s aiming to be in Santiago by next Wednesday he arrived thinking he’s in Trabadelo and a bit gutted to have walked the extra 2 k and to have gone on the super hilly route - by mistake! I’m amazed he found it as no one else seems to have take this route today and we nearly missed it initially.
    Anyway it’s nice to have some company, as long as he doesn’t snore, and it may help us to get moving early tomorrow as he leaves by 5.30am.
    Am uploading a video of our neighbouring donkey who had a mad moment just after supper. Very funny - again sound is good!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Pradela to O Cebreiro - the big mountain

    25 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Our dorm companion of last night, Matt, decided to get up at 4am and left at 4.30. Consequently we were awake for most of time from then until 5.30 when the alarm went off. The plan was to leave at 6 because of the heat and the climb up to O Cebreiro -
    Probably the toughest we’ve done since St Jean.
    Our companion took all the loo paper with him when he left which was a bit annoying, but a bit bleary eyed -and with a bit of a headache (in my case), we did manage to leave at 6.
    It was just getting light and the hills were silhouetted against the dawn. The first 3k were downhill to Trabadelo. Then the next 10k or so we’re pretty flat, along a road next to the river but with the A6 motorway close by for most of the time.
    Coffee and paracetamol made me feel a bit more human, and by the time it was properly light I was feeling a bit better and ready to climb.
    Fortunately most of the early part of the quite steep climb was shaded by oak trees and there were plenty of places to stop for drinks - I think I drank about a litre and a half of sparkling water in less than an hour at one point. An ice cream at a cafe near the top was a huge help with the last part and then we were in Galicia!! I’m so happy as I loved Galicia in October last year and it certainly feels like quite an achievement to be here this time!
    The mountain landscapes were fabulous - I hope the photos will give some idea of the beauty of this place - but I think you really have to see the whole for yourself to get a real feel for it.
    After a lunch of various types of goats local goats cheese with honey - and more goats cheese with tomato and basalmic vinegar (a bit of mis ordering by me) but delicious - we retreated to our room as the 4am wake up call followed by the 22km uphill walk had left me at least, feeling a bit dazed.
    This evening went to a beautiful mass at the church of Santa Maria Real do Camino. A very pilgrim focused service with a wonderful priest speaking in many languages. It culminated in a pilgrim blessing. I found it very moving and was in tears by the end of the service.
    The evening finished with watching the sun set over Galicia - beautiful and memorable. O Cebreiro is a very special place and I will be very sad to leave tomorrow morning. I will definitely be coming back!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    O Cebreiro to Fonfria - still in the mou

    26 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I woke up to a misty mountain scene in complete contrast to yesterday’s bright clear skies. From the bedroom window it sounded as if it was raining, but I think it was the trees dripping. We were in the cloud rather than under it.
    As we had a very short walk today we had never planned to leave super early and we’re aiming for around 9 - so no alarm clock necessary, which was a joy!
    We decided to have breakfast at the hotel across the street where we ate with Romona last night. Just coffee and toast but with their delicious local bread which made it special.
    We did leave just after 9 and at first were strolling along a gently undulating path through the cloud.
    It was noticeable that there were lots of new people following the trail having started in O Cebreiro. - some actually running along the trail. But that didn’t last long as it soon became quite steep again in sections because we were headed up to the third highest peak of the whole walk.
    The peak is called Alto de Poio and there was a very welcomed cafe at the top where we sat for quite a while as we then only had about three and a half kilometres to go. It was fascinating watching the clouds moving, revealing the mountains at one moment and then covering them again a few minutes later. At one point we were looking down on the the cloud which undulated like the sea surrounded by a ring of mountains.
    Eventually we decided to continue on to Fonfria. Our Albergue is in a tiny village but seems to have everything we could possibly want. Great washing and drying facilites (my personal obsession). Great food - we had a delicious simple lunch including more of the delicious local cheese with honey. Fruit to buy and fab outside space. Not only loads of washing lines but tables and chairs, loungers, and a trampoline!! Of course I’ve had a quick go on the trampoline and will have another one in a minute but I did find it very exhausting - think I’m fitter but not that fit!
    Dinner in the thatched Palozzo was wonderful too - a day of superlatives. Again. We started with Galician soup, but for the first time in my experience it was vegetarian- normally it has meat in it - so I was very excited to be able to eat it. Then a sort of vegetable risotto and then torta De Santiago - home made and the best one I’ve ever tasted. Very good meal, with local Bierzo red wine and then a Galician liqueur which was a bit like baileys - but I think nicer.
    Lots of new people to meet and old friends too. A very good and really quite relaxing day.    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    1

    Fonfria to Samos - diving into a sea of

    27 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We left the lovely Albergue at Fonfria at about 7 after buying some of their delicious Santiago cake and fruit and yoghurt.
    It was a beautiful morning,
    Clear blue skies and fabulous views of the mountains. The way was gently down at first. Turning a corner we saw a pool of cloud sitting in the valley- like a soft white sea. I have never seen anything like it, and I have done quite a lot of walking in the mountains. At every turn of the path it looked different; it was as if we were walking along a coast road and could see islands in the sea. I’m very bad at describing this and I’m not sure the photos do it justice, but it was the most incredible sight.
    After a while, as we began the descent to Triacastella, it felt like we were diving into the cloud. The view began to disappear and everything was misty and quite cold. My fingers went numb and by the time we reached Triacastella I was very ready for coffee and my jumper. Fortunately the sun came back pretty quickly and I was soon back to normal.
    We then took the alternative route to Samos which follows the river all the way to the monastery town. The ‘normal’ route goes straight to Sarria - where many people start their Camino because it’s just over 100km from there to Santiago (and you have to walk at least 100km to get your Compostela).
    By now it was getting warm and I stopped for a drink at the only bar on this 10km stretch.
    We got into Samos by about 1 but couldn’t check into our room until 2, so sat and ate our lunch (yogurt and nuts) by the river. It looked very swimmable but I wasn’t feeling 100% so thought it was better not to go in this time.
    The Albergue is good but does not have food, and apparently Tuesday is a rest day in Samos so nearly everywhere else was closed too. The only option for dinner was a bocadillo at the tiny bar - so that had to do. Very sad because there is a restaurant opposite which gets very good reviews - not for us tho. At 5.30 we went on the tour of the monastery. We were taken round by a Benedictine monk who, I think, would have been an interesting guide if I’d been able to speak a bit more Spanish. The limited amount I do have was very useful and I was able to understand some of what he was explaining and even answered some of his questions (he was very interactive). There are only eleven monks living there now - most of the place is just empty. The others in our group were mainly Italian and could understand a fair amount of Spanish but there was also a Spanish pilgrim who had stared walking in Rome. The monk was fascinated by this and asked lots of questions, including why he had walked from Rome and why he had walked so many caminos. The guy said he asked himself the same questions and said that when he finished one he always said that was the last - but so far it never has been! He wasn’t very old so I feel this one won’t be his last either but I don’t know what you do after walking from Rome (he started on 24th March).
    We then had our sandwich and a drink before going to the mass at 7. It was a strangely perfunctory mass for me and although in a beautiful church, not as special for me as the one in O Cebreiro. Not sure anything will match that.
    Hoping to feel much better tomorrow and to find some very good food in Sarria. One of our friends was there today and seems to have found a great veggie place!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär

    Samos to Barbadelo - the beginning of th

    28 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Oh dear - feeling a bit gloomy today as we’ve entered what is really the last stage of our epic journey.
    Sarria - which we passed through today - is the last place you can start walking if you are to qualify for your Compostela. It’s just over 100km from Santiago and is reputedly much busier than the rest of the Camino.
    Starting from Samos, again in the cloud, we saw hardly anyone. We were not expecting anywhere to stop for the first 15km and this would have been true apart from the kindness of a man at a tiny Albergue in the forest. He had a table with (remarkably good) coffee, tea etc and some biscuits and fruit - all donativo. I so appreciated my coffee and was also very happy to meet up with Callie and Anna who had been in Samos at the Albergue run by the monastery. Sean (erstwhile veggie inclined friend who I have met a couple of times) had actually stayed at the monastery in a room and had three meals. That’s what I would like to do next time!
    It was a fairly gentle and cool walk through the forest, often beside a river, to join up with the main path to Sarria from Triacastella.
    Sarria appeared in a bowl in the hills and we were soon walking in what felt like a city, but what is in fact a middle sized town - but with lots of infrastructure for pilgrims. Lots of hostels, banks supermarkets etc.
    I had heard from Bella about a great vegan/veggie cafe and shop so we headed there and had breakfast (in my case) and lunch (in Caroline’s). Although hers looked so good (a Buddha bowl) I had a small lunch too.
    It really was a fab place; my toast and tahini and honey was delicious and I then had a bowl of lentils which was exactly what I needed. C had a Buddha bowl which was perfection - I just didn’t feel I could eat that as was still feeling a bit under the weather.
    Leaving Sarria was hard after what ended up being a long stop and after eating quite a lot.
    I’m definitely better if I eat after I arrive rather than on the way.
    By the time we were heading out of Sarria it was pretty warm and although we were again on paths through trees, it was largely up hill so felt quite hard.
    Our Albergue in Barbadelo is very luxurious compared to the normal ones and has a pool! I had a wonderful and very refreshing swim. The place isn’t busy - I guess most people start in Sarria so wouldn’t stop after 4 km! Hopefully that will give me a head start tomorrow so the way won’t be too crowded. The plan is also to go beyond the ‘regular’ stage tomorrow, and as it is also the middle of the week, maybe it won’t be so crowded.
    Caroline has got a painful ankle so is going to get some physio in Portomarin tomorrow, so she will take a taxi there in the morning rather than walking. She’s really hoping they will sort it out for her so she can continue. I hope so too!    Läs mer

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  • Fiona BoultThe CaminoResenär
    1

    Barbadelo to Gonzar - a day of two parts

    29 juni 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today was very unusual because Caroline has damaged her ankle and had managed to get an appointment with a physio in Portomarin (the next large town) at 10 and was going there by taxi. So I set off on my own - although it’s already clear that from Sarria onwards you won’t be on your own for long, if at all, as there are many more people walking now. Also I was fortunate to have Anna leaving around the same time and walking to Gonzar too, so we linked up for quite large parts of this walk.
    Today we passed the 100km to Santiago mark - currently at about 80km - which felt an achievement having started at 800 and also quite melancholy as I don’t want this to end. I still love the walking and the whole experience, even tho I’m feeling very tired tonight, and I find myself beginning to plan how I’m going to get back here! Just hoping I can at some point in the not too distant future.
    It was a lovely morning and the first and longest part of the walk, to Portomarin, was beautiful. Typical Galician countryside with small farms and tiny villages.
    About 2 hours in we came to a doorway leading to a courtyard and garden where a very kind couple had laid out a fantastic breakfast spread - all donativo. As well as coffee and tea, there were home made cakes, tortilla, pancakes, cheese and meat, eggs, croquettes, fruit, walnuts - really everything you can imagine. All done with such kindness. It was an amazing stop and I really appreciated it. Anna and I sat there for quite a while before finally continuing on to Portomarin.
    There was a steep downhill section to the bridge over to the town and then steep steps up into the town on the other side.
    The main point of interest was a beautiful and simple Romanesque church. I tried to get another credencial but the information office, where I thought I might have been able to find one, was deserted. We had a drink and then continued on the final section, mainly uphill, into the tiny hamlet of Gonzar.
    This part of the walk wasn’t as attractive, lots of walking by roads and the day had clouded over so everything looked a bit grim. The temperature was good tho for what was, in the end, a pretty long walk.
    The place we are staying tonight seems fine. No cards so I was relieved that I’d managed to get more cash out in Portomarin. It’s been quite hard to use cards for the last few days and most of the places we walk through don’t have banks so it’s important to have plenty of cash!
    Reunited with C, who seemed to have had s successful appointment with the physio, we went to eat a late lunch at the nearby Albergue - salad and padrón peppers / and then came back so do the washing (!) and rest a bit. Have now had supper here and have eaten far too much - but the food was fine and managed vegetarian which is always a relief.
    Not such a long day tomorrow unless I do the 4.5k detour to a special church. I’m thinking about that!    Läs mer

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