Hazel & Ted in India

February - March 2023
A 14-day trip to explore India’s Golden Triangle, spot tigers at Ranthambore and take the famous toy train up to Shimla. Read more
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  • Day 11

    Ranthambore to Jaipur

    February 26, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    There was another tiger spotting venture at 6.30 am today but we decided to sack that off in favour of a lie- in, swim and relaxation by the pool. Bags had to be put outside the door by 11.30 am then a quick photo shoot around the hotel, visit to the shop and in the coach by 12.15.

    The scenery along the way was very much the same as on the way to Ranthambore with the odd ramshackle houses and shops, cows wandering along, cars, trucks and other vehicles vying for places. Raj told us that the houses seen out in the countryside and villages are those of the farm workers and all have running water, electricity and the children have access to schooling. The people who live in the slums around the cities are refugees, he said, from neighbouring Afghanistan, Myanmar, Nepal, Sri Lanka and other countries but especially from Bangladesh, which is a big problem. In Mumbai (population 24 millions) he said half the population (12 million) are slum dwellers, which seemed very shocking. We stopped for the pack lunches by 1.30 pm then more or less straight to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Another ITC hotel which is very palatial but good restaurant and service better than at Agra.

    Rooms were allocated quickly then it was back out for a 20 minute drive to a Hindu temple to see the evening fire ceremony at 6 pm. Raj had told us earlier in the day that the Hindu religion is not particularly demanding, it being more important to be a good husband, father, son, brother etc ( and the equivalent for women) than attend the temple. There are no holy days. We all had to put our shoes in a large bag then enter bare footed. There were large numbers of Indian people and we looked around the outside before gathering in the large hall where the ceremony started promptly at 6. Two richly red and gold decorated figures were on show with a couple of men waving lit 🔥 about accompanied by Indian music. The majority of the audience clapped and were pleased to receive some ? Holy water periodically sprayed over them from the front. Everyone was quite excited to be there and all faiths welcome but no pics to be taken in the hall. Outside again we offered to take a photo of an Indian family then the wife wanted a selfie with me- getting used to this now! Then we went then to collect our shoes, a young Indian man asked me and another female group member for a video of us talking to him…this is new…. and returned to the bus then it was back to the hotel for dinner.
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  • Day 12

    A day in Jaipur

    February 27, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Known as the “pink city” Jaipur was built by the Maharajah of Jaipur in 1727. He built it in 7 equal-sized blocks of equal height so that equal light comes in and there are 7 city gates.

    Over the course of history, the maharajahs became adept at dealing with their different invaders and would-be rulers, surviving with differing degrees of success, the coming of the Moghuls, the Muslims and the British. Indeed, in 1876 the then Prince of Wales was welcomed to Jaipur and the buildings painted the famous “pink” in his honour (although in reality they are a sort of red/ terracotta). Many forts and palaces were built by them over time and in 1947 the new Indian Government allowed the maharajas to keep their possessions and conduct their business, even giving them a pension of sorts, provided they did not try and enter politics and contest elections.

    Later on, when Indira Ghandi was in power, some did form new political parties and bid for power so Mrs Ghandi decreed that the government would take their palaces and stop their pensions. This is why many properties belonging to former maharajahs were turned into hotels or museums. The more powerful ones survived, including the Maharajah of Jaipur. Today the government allow the maharajahs to use their titles ( even though they are not supposed to, it turns a blind eye) as it’s good for tourism but they have no power now and pay their taxes like everyone else. Jaipur is now a World Heritage City and is famous for textiles, block-printing, gemstones and jewellery.

    Leaving the hotel we travelled through and out of the city up to the iconic Amber Fort, one of 800 forts built over time. Perched high up on the hillside ( named after the goddess Ambe) it cannot be accessed by coaches so we all piled into the waiting jeeps and shot up there at break-neck speed. Prior to this, on leaving the coach, I had paused to take a photo not realising a snake charmer was in the foreground of my photo and who then began to wave his hand at me (wanting ££ for the privilege). Ted saw him and this charmer ( forgive the pun) apparently popped the cobra back in his basket and made as if to come after me! On hearing this from Ted I quickly legged it into the jeep at top speed, nervously looking over my shoulder and couldn’t wait until we were safely up at the Fort! Looking at the pics, yes he is there but no 🐍 visible!!!!!

    Raj told us all the history of the Fort and previous occupants and we were given time to wander about. Some people got up there by elephant ( health of which is rigorously controlled now). We also saw several engaged couples having their pre-wedding shoots plus videos. Raj says this is a nuisance! Apparently some take out loans for them. They looked splendid in their outfits. Some equally splendid views were obtained then all too soon it was back in the jeeps to the bus. Onward to a textile outlet with demonstrations of block printing and carpet making. We had some samosas and sandwiches here, plus drinks which sufficed for lunch, had the carpet demo, browsed the wares and bought a thing or two!

    Onward to the City Palace-an ex maharajah’s domain, now a palace. Plenty of things to look at here but soooo hot! Then to the Jantar Mantar which was a display of all the old astronomical techniques which informed thinking back in the day. Astronomy was very important in yesteryear as maharajahs decided their war tactics and indeed young couples decided whether or not they were suited by consulting the astronomer!

    From here the plan was to drop us off at a shopping bazaar but, we were all a bit jaded, Phil did take a vote and all but one couple opted to go back to the hotel, missing out the gem factory and more shopping. So this we did and were in time to get a swim in this hotel’s lovely pool
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  • Day 13

    And so back to “Dilli”

    February 28, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌩️ 23 °C

    Our last full day in India has arrived and so it’s a full days coach travel back to Delhi (correct pronunciation Dilli, Raj tells us). First stop, however, was the gemstone outlet so we had a little demo followed by the hard sell for those who were indulging. Very pretty trinkets and jewels to be bought but very pressurised too!

    Raj’s little talk was about marriage and taxes today. 90% of marriages are still arranged in India, totally by parents although if either the boy or girl does not fancy the only choice offered, he/she can opt out and the parents have to start again. This would be acceptable in the cities but probably no choice at all in the villages-the original choice would be the only choice! 5% of marriages are semi-arranged where boys and girls find their own partners (within their castes) but 5% are inter-caste marriages and these are frowned upon and not recognised by the families and friends concerned. In this case, the couple would have to leave their home town and set up somewhere else. Divorces are becoming increasingly common in the cities, as women have better means of self sufficiency with better jobs but the divorce rate is still low.
    70% of people, mainly farmers, do not qualify to pay tax. Money earned in farming is ploughed back into the land, literally.

    A comfort stop followed by a lunch stop ensued, where many plates of French fries were ordered-people are a bit “curried out”! We ate at picnic tables outside. There were a lot of flies here! Back on the road and all too soon the chaos of the Delhi outskirts with all its huge corporate buildings such as Deloitte, PWC, etc and huge IT centres were on either side of the highway.

    As usual, any Indian people in other vehicles, whether they be schoolchildren, bus travellers, lorry drivers as well as pedestrians, are very interested in a bus full of boring old Brits and are anxious to smile broadly and wave enthusiastically at us. In addition, wherever we have been, all sorts of people ask to take our photos or have selfies with them, even at our age! I must be appearing on several social media pages as we speak! I have been amazed.

    So…. Back to ITC Maurya, Delhi for the third and final time, which is absolutely heaving with tourists as well as delegates from G20 (foreign ministers meeting 1-3 March apparently). We were also told that Fred and Mary (Denmark’s Crown Prince and Princess) are also staying there! We went to a different bar and managed to get free drinks in the guise of Happy Hour 🤷🏻‍♀️. Then there was a complimentary glass of wine with Great Rail so no bar bill tonight. A farewell to those on a different flight tomorrow and then off to bed …..
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  • Day 14

    Homeward bound

    March 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Bags out at 7, swift breakfast and then on the coach by 8 to the airport. Getting out of India was worse than getting in, so it turned out! It started with the Disney-like queue outside the airport to show passports and “boarding card” (a piece of paper given to us by Phil showing flight number. Once in we joined the next queue which was …. Passport control 😳This was longer and reminded me of the Visa Entry queue on arrival 2 weeks’ ago. As with when we arrived, all desks were not manned and officials would just leave their posts and others randomly appear. Having survived this, the next hurdle was much more challenging…. Security!

    The trays provided to put our possessions into to be scanned were much smaller than any other airport I’ve been in. Therefore Ted and I had about 6 between us. A gaggle of foreign women barged in front of us with large bags, huge packs of nappies and tried to perch them on top of the trays like peas on drums. As more random women were coming up from the right I tartly told them there was a queue and jostled my trays through. As it was then necessary to go through the body scanner, and the female body scanner in our lane wasn’t working, I had to leave Ted to do this and go 2 lanes along. The whole thing was completely chaotic and I did let a woman go in front of me as her flight was going in 15 mins she said. Beckoned into the interestingly looking “scanner” ( a makeshift room with a curtain across) I was scanned with a hand held device which bleeped madly over my right hip. “It’s my new hip” I said helpfully but then felt obliged to expose my scar to corroborate! The female seemed pleased with this effort and let me go. I rejoined Ted on the other side of security except his hand luggage was missing…… He got permission to go back to where the queue of people with trays were to find he had somehow (probably due to the pushy women) abandoned his bag and it was sitting on its lonesome being bypassed by the crowd. Ted then shoved it into the security scanner but this almost caused WW III as the man watching the screen declared there was a screwdriver in it. Ted was equally adamant there wasn’t and both he and security man 2 examined it thoroughly. Back into the scanner it went and again security man 1 declared that there was a 🪛 and ….. there was! Deep in the side pocket of the bag was a tiny screwdriver that must have been in that bag for about 15 years. So for all their seeming inefficiencies the Indian security system works because no one picked it up in Heathrow!!

    By the time we arrived at the gate it was time to board. Uneventful flight really and having dashed to get to baggage reclaim, say goodbye to Phil and group members we retrieved one piece of luggage…… All other group members had gone and only a handful waited disconsolately hoping for bags to appear. Looking around, I saw a collection of suitcases over by another baggage belt so I went to have a look and there was our missing bag! 🤷🏻‍♀️What else could happen.

    It then took from 5.30 to 7.15 to tube it into St Pancras, walk along Euston Rd to Euston Station, get a few supplies from M&S and discover that the next train to Preston was at 7.30 pm an hour earlier than our booked one. A friendly railway worker said the ticket was valid for that train and gave us a heads up what Platform it was going from so we could mosey along and find some unreserved seats.

    So that’s it really. Here endeth the Blog. As usual it’s fairly hard work to keep up with but it’s our record of the trip. We have learned an immense amount about the small part of India we have visited and seen the contrast of a couple of big cities and Shimla. The dirt, rubbish, poverty and inequality is truly upsetting but I guess this is why we need to travel to understand the history and challenges that different countries face. The caste system still exists and people are very aware of which caste they belong to. Class also exists yet though people can change their class, they cannot change their caste and people do not marry outside their caste. I am grateful for any followers and their comments. I will do the next one in September this year for Uzbekistan 🇺🇿 so watch this space! Over and Out!
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