Hazel & Ted in India

February - March 2023
A 14-day trip to explore India’s Golden Triangle, spot tigers at Ranthambore and take the famous toy train up to Shimla. Read more
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  • 9.9kmiles
  • 8.3kmiles
  • Day 14

    Homeward bound

    March 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Bags out at 7, swift breakfast and then on the coach by 8 to the airport. Getting out of India was worse than getting in, so it turned out! It started with the Disney-like queue outside the airport to show passports and “boarding card” (a piece of paper given to us by Phil showing flight number. Once in we joined the next queue which was …. Passport control 😳This was longer and reminded me of the Visa Entry queue on arrival 2 weeks’ ago. As with when we arrived, all desks were not manned and officials would just leave their posts and others randomly appear. Having survived this, the next hurdle was much more challenging…. Security!

    The trays provided to put our possessions into to be scanned were much smaller than any other airport I’ve been in. Therefore Ted and I had about 6 between us. A gaggle of foreign women barged in front of us with large bags, huge packs of nappies and tried to perch them on top of the trays like peas on drums. As more random women were coming up from the right I tartly told them there was a queue and jostled my trays through. As it was then necessary to go through the body scanner, and the female body scanner in our lane wasn’t working, I had to leave Ted to do this and go 2 lanes along. The whole thing was completely chaotic and I did let a woman go in front of me as her flight was going in 15 mins she said. Beckoned into the interestingly looking “scanner” ( a makeshift room with a curtain across) I was scanned with a hand held device which bleeped madly over my right hip. “It’s my new hip” I said helpfully but then felt obliged to expose my scar to corroborate! The female seemed pleased with this effort and let me go. I rejoined Ted on the other side of security except his hand luggage was missing…… He got permission to go back to where the queue of people with trays were to find he had somehow (probably due to the pushy women) abandoned his bag and it was sitting on its lonesome being bypassed by the crowd. Ted then shoved it into the security scanner but this almost caused WW III as the man watching the screen declared there was a screwdriver in it. Ted was equally adamant there wasn’t and both he and security man 2 examined it thoroughly. Back into the scanner it went and again security man 1 declared that there was a 🪛 and ….. there was! Deep in the side pocket of the bag was a tiny screwdriver that must have been in that bag for about 15 years. So for all their seeming inefficiencies the Indian security system works because no one picked it up in Heathrow!!

    By the time we arrived at the gate it was time to board. Uneventful flight really and having dashed to get to baggage reclaim, say goodbye to Phil and group members we retrieved one piece of luggage…… All other group members had gone and only a handful waited disconsolately hoping for bags to appear. Looking around, I saw a collection of suitcases over by another baggage belt so I went to have a look and there was our missing bag! 🤷🏻‍♀️What else could happen.

    It then took from 5.30 to 7.15 to tube it into St Pancras, walk along Euston Rd to Euston Station, get a few supplies from M&S and discover that the next train to Preston was at 7.30 pm an hour earlier than our booked one. A friendly railway worker said the ticket was valid for that train and gave us a heads up what Platform it was going from so we could mosey along and find some unreserved seats.

    So that’s it really. Here endeth the Blog. As usual it’s fairly hard work to keep up with but it’s our record of the trip. We have learned an immense amount about the small part of India we have visited and seen the contrast of a couple of big cities and Shimla. The dirt, rubbish, poverty and inequality is truly upsetting but I guess this is why we need to travel to understand the history and challenges that different countries face. The caste system still exists and people are very aware of which caste they belong to. Class also exists yet though people can change their class, they cannot change their caste and people do not marry outside their caste. I am grateful for any followers and their comments. I will do the next one in September this year for Uzbekistan 🇺🇿 so watch this space! Over and Out!
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  • Day 13

    And so back to “Dilli”

    February 28, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌩️ 23 °C

    Our last full day in India has arrived and so it’s a full days coach travel back to Delhi (correct pronunciation Dilli, Raj tells us). First stop, however, was the gemstone outlet so we had a little demo followed by the hard sell for those who were indulging. Very pretty trinkets and jewels to be bought but very pressurised too!

    Raj’s little talk was about marriage and taxes today. 90% of marriages are still arranged in India, totally by parents although if either the boy or girl does not fancy the only choice offered, he/she can opt out and the parents have to start again. This would be acceptable in the cities but probably no choice at all in the villages-the original choice would be the only choice! 5% of marriages are semi-arranged where boys and girls find their own partners (within their castes) but 5% are inter-caste marriages and these are frowned upon and not recognised by the families and friends concerned. In this case, the couple would have to leave their home town and set up somewhere else. Divorces are becoming increasingly common in the cities, as women have better means of self sufficiency with better jobs but the divorce rate is still low.
    70% of people, mainly farmers, do not qualify to pay tax. Money earned in farming is ploughed back into the land, literally.

    A comfort stop followed by a lunch stop ensued, where many plates of French fries were ordered-people are a bit “curried out”! We ate at picnic tables outside. There were a lot of flies here! Back on the road and all too soon the chaos of the Delhi outskirts with all its huge corporate buildings such as Deloitte, PWC, etc and huge IT centres were on either side of the highway.

    As usual, any Indian people in other vehicles, whether they be schoolchildren, bus travellers, lorry drivers as well as pedestrians, are very interested in a bus full of boring old Brits and are anxious to smile broadly and wave enthusiastically at us. In addition, wherever we have been, all sorts of people ask to take our photos or have selfies with them, even at our age! I must be appearing on several social media pages as we speak! I have been amazed.

    So…. Back to ITC Maurya, Delhi for the third and final time, which is absolutely heaving with tourists as well as delegates from G20 (foreign ministers meeting 1-3 March apparently). We were also told that Fred and Mary (Denmark’s Crown Prince and Princess) are also staying there! We went to a different bar and managed to get free drinks in the guise of Happy Hour 🤷🏻‍♀️. Then there was a complimentary glass of wine with Great Rail so no bar bill tonight. A farewell to those on a different flight tomorrow and then off to bed …..
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  • Day 12

    A day in Jaipur

    February 27, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Known as the “pink city” Jaipur was built by the Maharajah of Jaipur in 1727. He built it in 7 equal-sized blocks of equal height so that equal light comes in and there are 7 city gates.

    Over the course of history, the maharajahs became adept at dealing with their different invaders and would-be rulers, surviving with differing degrees of success, the coming of the Moghuls, the Muslims and the British. Indeed, in 1876 the then Prince of Wales was welcomed to Jaipur and the buildings painted the famous “pink” in his honour (although in reality they are a sort of red/ terracotta). Many forts and palaces were built by them over time and in 1947 the new Indian Government allowed the maharajas to keep their possessions and conduct their business, even giving them a pension of sorts, provided they did not try and enter politics and contest elections.

    Later on, when Indira Ghandi was in power, some did form new political parties and bid for power so Mrs Ghandi decreed that the government would take their palaces and stop their pensions. This is why many properties belonging to former maharajahs were turned into hotels or museums. The more powerful ones survived, including the Maharajah of Jaipur. Today the government allow the maharajahs to use their titles ( even though they are not supposed to, it turns a blind eye) as it’s good for tourism but they have no power now and pay their taxes like everyone else. Jaipur is now a World Heritage City and is famous for textiles, block-printing, gemstones and jewellery.

    Leaving the hotel we travelled through and out of the city up to the iconic Amber Fort, one of 800 forts built over time. Perched high up on the hillside ( named after the goddess Ambe) it cannot be accessed by coaches so we all piled into the waiting jeeps and shot up there at break-neck speed. Prior to this, on leaving the coach, I had paused to take a photo not realising a snake charmer was in the foreground of my photo and who then began to wave his hand at me (wanting ££ for the privilege). Ted saw him and this charmer ( forgive the pun) apparently popped the cobra back in his basket and made as if to come after me! On hearing this from Ted I quickly legged it into the jeep at top speed, nervously looking over my shoulder and couldn’t wait until we were safely up at the Fort! Looking at the pics, yes he is there but no 🐍 visible!!!!!

    Raj told us all the history of the Fort and previous occupants and we were given time to wander about. Some people got up there by elephant ( health of which is rigorously controlled now). We also saw several engaged couples having their pre-wedding shoots plus videos. Raj says this is a nuisance! Apparently some take out loans for them. They looked splendid in their outfits. Some equally splendid views were obtained then all too soon it was back in the jeeps to the bus. Onward to a textile outlet with demonstrations of block printing and carpet making. We had some samosas and sandwiches here, plus drinks which sufficed for lunch, had the carpet demo, browsed the wares and bought a thing or two!

    Onward to the City Palace-an ex maharajah’s domain, now a palace. Plenty of things to look at here but soooo hot! Then to the Jantar Mantar which was a display of all the old astronomical techniques which informed thinking back in the day. Astronomy was very important in yesteryear as maharajahs decided their war tactics and indeed young couples decided whether or not they were suited by consulting the astronomer!

    From here the plan was to drop us off at a shopping bazaar but, we were all a bit jaded, Phil did take a vote and all but one couple opted to go back to the hotel, missing out the gem factory and more shopping. So this we did and were in time to get a swim in this hotel’s lovely pool
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  • Day 11

    Ranthambore to Jaipur

    February 26, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    There was another tiger spotting venture at 6.30 am today but we decided to sack that off in favour of a lie- in, swim and relaxation by the pool. Bags had to be put outside the door by 11.30 am then a quick photo shoot around the hotel, visit to the shop and in the coach by 12.15.

    The scenery along the way was very much the same as on the way to Ranthambore with the odd ramshackle houses and shops, cows wandering along, cars, trucks and other vehicles vying for places. Raj told us that the houses seen out in the countryside and villages are those of the farm workers and all have running water, electricity and the children have access to schooling. The people who live in the slums around the cities are refugees, he said, from neighbouring Afghanistan, Myanmar, Nepal, Sri Lanka and other countries but especially from Bangladesh, which is a big problem. In Mumbai (population 24 millions) he said half the population (12 million) are slum dwellers, which seemed very shocking. We stopped for the pack lunches by 1.30 pm then more or less straight to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Another ITC hotel which is very palatial but good restaurant and service better than at Agra.

    Rooms were allocated quickly then it was back out for a 20 minute drive to a Hindu temple to see the evening fire ceremony at 6 pm. Raj had told us earlier in the day that the Hindu religion is not particularly demanding, it being more important to be a good husband, father, son, brother etc ( and the equivalent for women) than attend the temple. There are no holy days. We all had to put our shoes in a large bag then enter bare footed. There were large numbers of Indian people and we looked around the outside before gathering in the large hall where the ceremony started promptly at 6. Two richly red and gold decorated figures were on show with a couple of men waving lit 🔥 about accompanied by Indian music. The majority of the audience clapped and were pleased to receive some ? Holy water periodically sprayed over them from the front. Everyone was quite excited to be there and all faiths welcome but no pics to be taken in the hall. Outside again we offered to take a photo of an Indian family then the wife wanted a selfie with me- getting used to this now! Then we went then to collect our shoes, a young Indian man asked me and another female group member for a video of us talking to him…this is new…. and returned to the bus then it was back to the hotel for dinner.
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  • Day 10

    Tiger Spotting!

    February 25, 2023 in India

    OMG - what a day! Didn’t sleep that well though most other people seemed to do so! The Sawai Vilas (probably should be Villas) are a two storey 3-sided (the 4th being the restaurant/bar/reception area) structure forming a square in the middle of which is the beautiful swimming pool and green garden area. A free morning, thankfully, so had a sunbathe and a swim before the talk from the Ranthambore National Park naturalist at 12 noon. He was a bit difficult to understand but interesting, showed us some slides and hyped us up for the afternoon safari which set off from the hotel at 2.30 pm and the object of the exercise was to see the Bengal tiger of which there are 70 in Ranthambore Park. It’s all about the Tigers here!

    The group occupied 2 “canters” (safari vehicles). Phil had said we were well placed at the hotel, as it was well into the Park but.. we seemed to go the other way, through the town, to “Gate 10”. This took 40 minutes and people were a bit disgruntled. Our Ranger guy was very confident and loud, said he would “do my best for you” but at first people on the cater saw various deer/spotted deer, monkeys, birds before he did.! Confidence was not high. The canter was a bone-shaker (literally!) and the Park was like an arid-looking desert, not a bit like the two brilliant safaris we had been on in South Africa - you could feel the discontent. Phil obviously felt a bit panicky and kept apologising for lack of anything really stunning. It was also very hot with the sun beating down.

    Then we rattled into an open area by the dried up-looking river with a clump of bushes in the distance-here, we were told, tigers had been spotted earlier in the day. Trouble was that our canter swept into position parallel to the vehicle on our right, completely blocking the occupants’ view! Then more and more vehicles (canters and land rovers) arrived, all pointing in different directions, all blocking each other’s view and kicking up a cloud of dust in a noisy fashion as they did. Excited chatter abounded, almost an air or hysteria, with the biggest lenses I have ever seen anywhere pointed at the clump of bushes in the distance. Ted and I were just getting a little sceptical thinking they probably did this every afternoon when our ranger let out a shout of excitement causing everyone to leap up and point their binoculars/cameras at the clump. The Indians around us were in a frenzy of excitement, jostling for position and the ranger declared it was a “large male” (really??) and Phil asked us had we seen it.? Really? Seen what? Was it a figment of their imagination? We sat for a further 40 mins with the sun beating down during which various vehicles came and went. At this point I got a bit giggly and we laughed silently, shoulders shaking, til our stomachs ached especially when a straight-faced man in our group, in a panama hat, staring straight ahead, caught my eye, and said it was like going fishing….

    So, about turn and then, horror of horrors, another gathering of canters by the side of the river! We sprinted at top speed to join them. The tiger, the tiger! New hip or no new hip I leaped up onto the seat, caught up in the moment, shouting “Ted-grab my legs!” This Ted did, which was a good job as the driver was desperately jockeying for position and I did in fact catch a glimpse of our boy on the other side of the river. This was nothing to the furore caused when the tiger then leisurely crossed the road in front of the foremost vehicle and made a stately promenade onto the other side not a million miles away from us. Amazingly, I had an uninterrupted view and clicked away on my little mobile phone.

    And so dear readers, the moral of the story is, don’t doubt the experts (never thought we’d see a tiger outside of Blackpool Zoo!) and don’t be cynical! I ended up passing some of my 🐅🐅🐅 pics to those who missed them! 🤣😂
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  • Day 9

    Fatehpur Sikri and on to Ranthambore

    February 24, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    9 am start to the ancient, abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri, another Moghul capital back in the day and attacked many times by the Hindu Maharajahs when the Moghul Empire was weak. Most of the buildings are now demolished but the Indian Archaeological Society work to preserve the beautiful red sandstone structures. The Moghul rulers lived in the Palace, one with a Turkish wife (his Sultana) and around 3000 concubines 😳.

    We left the coach in the main car park, had to run the gauntlet of the quite agressive hawkers and maimed beggars, one of whom, a lad of about 20, had one leg where the lower half, with foot, was facing the wrong way. Whether this had been done deliberately as a child I don’t know. 😔. We then had another hair raising 5 min smaller bus ride (speedometer not working, door open, no seat belts, tyres questionable) to the archeological site, heard the history, walked the walk and returned to the bus.

    Lunch was in a splendid hotel (Laxmi Villas), a popular wedding venue.
    We had now travelled from the State of Uttra Pradesh to Rajastan, a very dry state. Raj gave us a few facts during the day. The cows wandering about everywhere do, in fact, have owners who feed them but often don’t have room to accommodate them all day so they are free to wander and are collected at the end of the day, similarly the goats. There is method in their madness when they sit down in the middle of the road-the hustle and bustle of the traffic keeps flies and other insects away. The cows are not so much “holy” as useful and valuable to a family.

    The road ahead was very good-a toll road and we passed through several toll plazas. We then turned onto the New Delhi-Mombai Expressway, opened only last week by the Prime Minister, Mr Mondi. It has cut down that journey from 24 to 12 hours. Only fast moving vehicles are allowed on it. Users pay for the distance travelled (per km) whereas on others a fixed fee is paid. There was no one on it! Arrival at the hotel was about 6.30 pm then a quick wash and brush up before dinner.
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  • Day 8

    Onward to Agra and the Taj Mahal

    February 23, 2023 in India

    Well first of all there was a BIG Indian wedding party 6 floors below our window which we managed to sleep through ok but I think the staff had been up all night and were clearing up 5 am this morning when our alarm went off! I include this morning’s breakfast selection at the ITC Maurya for interest.

    An early start and off we went to a different Delhi Station for the 8.10 train service to Agra. Usual scenes of chaos and the most poor man with not many limbs desperately asking for money at the foot of the coach steps…. 😟. Our first stop was the Agra Red Fort. This was heaving with people but impressive. Each Moghul Emperor added something to this fort as they came into power. The Moghuls eventually failed when they interfered in politics and wanted the Hindus to become Muslim. The Hindus naturally did not want to leave their religion behind and thus did not support the Moghuls in Indian War of Independence, thus leaving the way clear for British rule.

    Shan Jahan built the Taj Mahal for his wife Mumtaz Mahal starting in 1632 AD after she died giving birth to their 14th child (no wonder!) as a memorial. It took 22 years to build. He originally wanted to build a bridge to the Red Fort but his son soon decided against that, keeping him imprisoned for 8 years at the Agra Fort under house arrest, and preventing his grand ambitions. Apparently he spent too much money! The Taj Mahal was one of the original Seven Wonders of the World.

    So it was to the ITC Mughal Hotel, Agra we went and after checking into our rooms and having some lunch we set off at 3pm to this most famous monument.

    The process of entry was all wildly chaotic with much queuing,checking of tickets etc but it really is a wow moment when you step through the arch and see the monument for real. “Official “ photos were taken then Ted and I walked up and queued to go into the mausoleum itself. Overshoes were required for this. On the walk up to the mausoleum 2 Sikh young men in bright orange turbans were taking pictures of each other. They then indicated (we thought) that they wanted a photo together but what they really wanted were photos of themselves and us! After that the rest of the family (about 20, including children) all wanted photos of us-felt like a Hollywood star! 🤣😂 We really should have taken a picture of the whole family but we didn’t 😩.

    After much negotiation to find Disney-like open trams to go back to the coach it was decided by Taj that we would visit the marble artisan workshop at the marble factory outlet instead of tomorrow. This went down like a lead balloon with Ted who stayed in the coach! 🤣. After the usual spiel and the majority couldn’t wait to exit after a long day, we finally returned to the Hotel (another ITC one) at 7 pm. Straight to the bar with a convivial group then into dinner where more photos of buffet have been added to the blog….
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  • Day 7

    A Day in Delhi

    February 22, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Delhi is now the capital of India. In 1911 the ruling Brits created New Delhi then 40 sq km alongside the original Delhi. Now it all merges into one at 1600 sq kms.

    India has 29 States each with its own parliament but because Delhi is the capital, it is a City State and the control over health, education and transportation is set by the Central Government. There are 23 official languages in India, which are all very different but in Delhi 4 languages (Hindi, Punjabi, Urdu and English) are spoken. English can often be a common language between two Indians. Every Indian starts to learn English in primary school and there are opportunities to learn other languages such as German, French or Mandarin.

    People in Delhi can expect to earn 10x the income of other areas but the cost of living is also much, much more. Public transportation ( buses, taxis, tuk tuks) run on natural gas. Private vehicles can run on petrol and diesel but are tested 3 monthly as to their capacity to pollute and are fined heavily accordingly. Sources of income include tourism, medical tourism, the IT industry. Today India is celebrating 75 years of independence. The Moslems came in the 7th Century, the Moghul dynasties took over 12th to mid 19th C before the Brits took over until 1947.

    Delhi is a city of contrasts. We set off at 8 am to Old Delhi to visit the Jama Masjid Mosque where both men and women had to wear the provided “ cover-ups”. No shoes allowed either. Leaving there we all boarded rickshaws and had a hair raising ride through Chandi Chowk/Silver Street, the old narrow streets, to see the shops gradually opening up to sell their wares. Quite a contrast to New Delhi with bundles of electric wires everywhere, monkeys swinging on the wires and between buildings, rickshaw drivers, moped riders and tuk tuks vying for position, all at breakneck speed ( or so it seemed!) Several beggars and hawkers surrounded the tourists, anxious to get money and sell wares respectively and deals were done.

    Onwards to Humayun’s tomb, a World Heritage Site, erected by his widow. He was a Moghul ruler. Onwards once more to the National Memorial Park to see Ghandi’s cremation site. Other leaders such as Nehru and Indira Ghandi (actually Nehru’s daughter) have also been cremated here. Their ashes then all go into the Ganges.
    Back to the bus and onwards to the carpet outlet where we were given drinks and snacks, which sufficed for lunch whilst we gazed at the truly beautiful silk carpets. Thankfully, though some of the group showed some interest only, one couple bought a small carpet and several some pashmina shawls, which they also sold.

    In contrast to Old Delhi there are some seriously large and very green open parks/ spaces in New Delhi. We saw India Gate ( WW1 and WW2 memorial), various important government and other notable buildings, as well as the present Prime Minister, Mr Modi’s, very impressive gaff and finally completed the tour with a visit to the lovely and peaceful Ghandi “ museum” where he was living and where he was assassinated on 30th January 1948.

    All very enjoyable and interesting but back now to the hotel where main suitcases have to be outside the door by 7pm as we set off again on the train tomorrow at 7 am to Agra. We will be back in this hotel though once more the night before we leave for home.
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  • Day 6

    Return to Delhi

    February 21, 2023 in India ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Early morning start of 6.30 am from Shimla was changed to 7.30 much to everyone’s delight 😀
    9 taxis in convoy then transported us from Shimla to Chandigarh along the twists and turns of the road we had seen at intervals from the Toy Train. This operation took about 3 and a half hours and we saw a different perspective than from the train. Road improvement is taking place all along the route with big plant machinery on the one hand and a man shovelling gravel into panniers on a donkey’s back on the other.!

    The taxis bowled along with other motorists attempting near impossible overtaking and many unguarded gaps at the verge where any of us could be plunging down the mountainside to the valleys below! Coffee and toilet stop halfway along and then before we knew it we were joining the chaotic traffic on the outskirts of Chandigarh. If we stopped at traffic lights for any length of time the beggars quickly appeared to peer into the car windows. These poor creatures (one with no hands and even worse, one with no arms at all) were pitiful to behold.

    By contrast, we lucky people were provided with packed lunches again and herded into the upper class waiting room on the station but at least we were able to give whatever we weren’t going to eat from the lunches to the toilet attendant and she was highly delight with it all, so that was a plus.
    So we boarded the Shatabdi Express once more, destination Delhi, and scheduled to arrive at 15.25 and it did! Onto the bus and back to the ITC Maurya Hotel. Temperature higher now (26 degrees at 17.30 hrs) with predicted 31 tomorrow.

    Delhi has 22 million inhabitants and is one of the greenest cities in the world and we are looking forward to the city tour tomorrow. Having seen all the rubbish from the train and the squalid conditions that people live in by the side of the railway I asked Raj about the Covid pandemic in India. He told me that EVERYONE was offered the vaccinations and that the majority of the population had at least two vaccines. I find that almost impossible to believe as many of the slum dwellers are refugees-how on earth do local officials have any idea of who lives there? 🤷🏻‍♀️
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  • Day 5

    Lord Kitchener’s Wildflower Hall

    February 20, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A good night’s sleep at last due to my best friend Nytol- thank goodness.

    Off into the taxis again up to the Kulfi region of Shimla. Shimla is in the northerly most province of India just 350 km from Tibet and not that far from the Pakistan border, hence the numerous military personnel, hospitals and establishments we have seen around here. Despite the overcrowded appearance of infrastructure on Shimla’s hillside only 20% of the province’s population live there whilst 80% live in the rural villages-15-20% on the mountainside terraces and the rest on the plains. The industries are agriculture and horticulture, the main crops being apples and other vegetables. An American missionary brought the sweet apple rootstocks here back in the day though they still have to import apples from other countries to satisfy their requirements. The healthcare and education infrastructures are good and all houses have electricity. Surplus hydroelectric power is sold to other regions of India.

    Our first stopping point was at 8,200 feet above sea level in the Kulfi region and in the middle range of the Himalayas (which means Home of Snow). Indeed, although the winter weather has been unseasonably warm this year (warmest February since 1901), there were still traces of snow on the roadside and the snow capped Himalayas could be seen in the distance.

    The usual photo opportunity was taken here along with a chance to use toilet facilities in the “glancing” tents where we were. The tents had 6 foot beds in them, faced a glorious view and western style “en-suite” facilities at the back (though the flushing system was not working 🫣 in the particular one I used!). No one was holidaying at that particular time but evidence of rubbish from other wild campers could be seen which was a bit shocking.

    Onwards then to a lunch at Wildflower Hall, where Lord Kitchener used to holiday between 1902 -1909. He apparently loved it there. It is now an Oberoi hotel, the same chain as the one we are staying in. Mr. Oberoi started work as a bell boy, rose to become the owner of this prestigious chain and died in 2002 at the age of 103. Pictures were duly taken on and from the terrace then all back into the cars for the return to Shimla where Ted and I had a swim! Main luggage has to be outside our door by 7pm for the 6.30 am start tomorrow.
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