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  • Day 41

    Marseilles Homeward Bound

    October 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    So here we are on the train from Marseilles to Charles de Gaulle airport - direct train route without changing in a little over four hours! It’s like reliving our trip in reverse passing by Lyon, Beaujolais and Burgundy as the countryside rushes by.
    We enjoyed a lazy two last days in Marseilles. One day was a food walking trip through the old town trying sardines, fried chick pea patties, slow cooked beef cheeks and bouillabaisse base fish dip amongst other things. At other times we just wandered around taking in the atmosphere around the old port but realistically it wasn’t our favourite city - a bit grimy and dirty compared to other towns.
    A fabulous trip but as always looking forward to home and family and friends.
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  • Day 38

    Marseilles

    October 14, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We are now in Marseilles for the final four days of our trip. We have a lovely renovated apartment in the old part of town close to the old port in what would be described in trendy terms as “gritty” surroundings - realistically it is a bit dirty, dark and dangerous feeling! Despite that it is well situated and quite interesting.
    Today we just started walking and saw where we ended up.
    So we walked towards the Notre Dame Basilica on the high hilltop which gave us wonderful views over the city - via flower markets, backstreet African markets into the privileged parts of town with Louis Vuitton and Hugo shops. From the basilica we could see the island prison of Chateau d’If (inspiration for the The Count of Monte Christo) and the beautiful cliffs along the Mediterranean.
    We than made our way through the maze of streets down towards the ocean to the beach for a refreshing swim in the clear waters of the Mediterranean. Then a small one woman operation pizza restaurant in the backstreets again - quite a character she was - but great real pizza!
    We finished by walking back along the coast road to home - very tired but a great day just watching the locals.
    Just watched Argentina beat Wales - yeah! Next is Ireland vs NZ.
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  • Day 36

    Monets Gardens - Giverny

    October 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We left Arras to start our two day drive to our final destination Marseilles. Currently overnighting at Beaune but en route we stopped at Giverny to visit the famous gardens and Japanese ponds created by Claude Monet. We were pleasantly surprised at the amount of flowers blooming in the garden - which has a lovely wild unrestricted feel to it - for this time of year. Not many water lilies but the beautiful reflections and the Japanese bridges were just like his paintings.Read more

  • Day 34

    Arras - Western Front Battlefields

    October 10, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We spent two days with Phil Hora - an Australian expat who lives in Arras - touring the western Front battlefield sites. Phil specialises in Australian tours and I thoroughly recommend him (Sacred Ground tours). I sent him information on my great uncle George who died here and he had located the actual paddocks that he was fighting in when he was killed. It was quite moving to stand in that paddock all this time later and reflect on those events. Later we visited his grave in one of the 2925 Commonwealth War Graves in this region! The following day he tracked down - with info from Helen - areas Jane’s grandfather worked as a field hospital surgeon.
    The loss of life is staggering when you consider that in the four years of stalemate there were major battles, resulting in hundreds of thousands of causalities on both sides, that resulted in maybe 2 to 4 kms of territory gained - sometime a couple of 100 metres! At the battle of Pozieres 6800 Australian men died in 7 weeks! By the end of the war it is estimated 15 to 22 million soldiers from all sides died.
    The respect from the French and Belgium people is amazing and to this day they honour the Australian troops who fought here ( as well as the other nations) by donating their land and their time for cemeteries, memorials and museums.
    The British High Command made disastrous after disastrous decisions in the first three years and I’m surprised we won! The tide turned when the Aussi, Kiwi and Canadian battalions were united under their own generals who had innovative battle plans the bore results and decreased deaths. In our case General John Monash - a civil engineer - who was the only person knighted on the battlefield during the war after his stunning victories in 1918. The new Monash centre at Villers-Brettenoux is a superb information museum opened in 2017 - the quality of all the museums is very high. All up a very sobering but enlightening experience.
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  • Day 32

    Le Donjon Michelin star Birhday Dinner

    October 8, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Foodies only need to read this!
    We had Jane’s birthday dinner a couple of days early as there was a Michelin star restaurant in Etretat in a beautiful hotel in the hill above the town so we had a view over the ocean and cliffs. The chef is a young local who only uses Normandy produce and only vegetables and seafood.
    An eight course degustation menu ended up twelve courses;

    1) French onion cheese ball dipped in beetroot
    Whelks with aioli
    Oyster with apple and cucumber juice emulsion.

    2) ”Scrambled eggs” on haddock tartare

    3) Bread with sumac and seaweed butter

    4) Celeriac, Parmesan, Foie gras and mushrooms

    5) Langoustine, Caviar and Seaweed

    6) Scallop with mayonnaise and seaweed

    7) Quince with apple and seaweed ice cream with Benedictine liqueur

    8) Lobster with vegetables and lobster bisque

    9) Salad and cheeses

    10) Marshmallow and lemon juice

    11) Birthday dish - grapefruit sorbet with olive tapenade plus biscuit

    12] Fig jam noisettes
    Chocolate Gold leaf mousse
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  • Day 32

    Jardins d’Etretat

    October 8, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    An unexpected jewel was this garden/sculpture park on the northern hillside of Etretat. In 1903 Madame Thebaualt, a belle epoque actress of some repute, started a garden here below her house. Monet, amongst others, painted the cliffs and beach from this viewpoint. In 2015 the garden was reconceptualised and restructured as an experiment in new techniques of sculptural plant trimming. Then they placed modern sculptures amongst the plantings - the result is a stunning juxtaposition of art and nature.
    It’s such a pleasure to have no expectations when one visits somewhere and then to be overwhelmed by what you experience.
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  • Day 32

    The Cliffs of Etretat - Alabaster Coast

    October 8, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    We have had two wonderful days in the village of Etretat on the Normandy coast. We weren’t sure what to expect here but it has exceed our hopes - so much so I will break up our blog into three sections: The Alabaster Coast, The Jardin D’Etretat, and Le Dojon Gastronomic Experience.

    The Alabaster Coast, or Côte d'Albâtre in French, is a striking 80 mile stretch of the Normandy coastline made of magnificent white chalk cliffs and pebble beaches. Geologically similar to the cliffs at Dover, the Alabaster Coast forms the sea edge of a chalk plateau known as the Pays de Caux.

    The area has provided writers and artists, especially the impressionists, with great inspiration. Monet, Sisley and many other impressionist artists painted canvases here.

    We did walks south and north admiring the cliffs and solitary pinnacles under blue skies and calm seas. Perfect area for kayaks and SUPs. Fantastic 18 hole golf course along the cliffs as well.
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  • Day 30

    Arromanches to Etretat

    October 6, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After a relaxing four days in Bayeux we left today for Etretat further west on the Normandy coastline. We visited Arromanches - the village on Gold beach, one of the British Invasion sites and the site of a military marvel code named Mulberry. The problem for the Allies was that all the deep water harbours like Cherbourg or Le Havre were incredibly fortified so instead of attacking them on DDay they built - over two years - two portable harbours that they towed across in pieces and assembled at Gold and Omaha beaches. This consisted of an outer breakwater of scuttled ships then a line of large reinforced concrete caissons inside that were sunk in place once they arrived. Then they placed small sections of spans on top and across to each one to make roadways to the beach from the off loading ships. Impossible to explain the magnitude of this enterprise - look at the first archival picture of the completed harbour.
    We passed through some more wartime sites of the Airborne British Squadrons before heading to Etretat which is village set in a lovely bay on the ocean amongst the white cliffs of the Alabaster Coast - but more of that tomorrow.
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  • Day 29

    Le Mont-Saint-Michel

    October 5, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After the Eiffel Tower, Le Mont-Saint-Michel has to be one of France’s most recognised, and visited, sites. It stands a kilometre off shore in the tidal estuary of the Couesnon river. A causeway wasn’t built until the 1800’s.
    It is built on a small rocky island - apparently after the archangel Michel appeared to the Bishop of the neighbouring city in a dream in 708 (His skull remains in the nearby cathedral with a hole in it where the angel touched it! True!). What began as a sanctuary for pilgrims became a Benedictine abbey in the 10th C - by the 14th C it grew to occupy the entire island (and double it’s height). It became an impregnable stronghold in the Hundred Years war but after the French Revolution it was sacked and turned into a prison which remained until 1863 when Napoleon III restored it to a national monument and restoration has continued to this day.
    As you approach the tidal flats it suddenly appears like a mirage from a fantasy RPG computer game - it takes your breath away even though you’ve seen pictures of it before.
    The tide was going out when we arrived so the muddy quicksand was visible all around. The Abbey is enormous built on three levels with multiple halls,chapels and crypts but no decorations as they were removed by the revolutionaries. A very informative audio guide provided a fascinating walk through for several hours.
    We lucked upon a mass in progress in the main church with nuns singing - see videos. As always it’s difficult to show the magnitude and magnificence of such a structure in photos but I tried.
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  • Day 28

    Normandy DDay American (West) Beaches

    October 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Bayeux is perfectly positioned between the two American landing beaches to the west - Utah and Omaha (very original) and the three eastern British ( Gold and Sword) and Canadian (Juno) beaches.
    We decided to head west today and our first stop was the only still intact German gun battery at Longues-sur-Mer. There is a command post and four reinforced pill boxes with 150mm long range artillery piece. Set back about 500m from the cliffs they had a range of 19.5 kms! However due to intense bombing by air and then sea they didn’t have much impact on DDay (6th June 1944) and they were taken by British troops on the 7th June. Awesome and horrific all at the same time - you find yourself admiring the engineering and then you remember what they were made for - death and destruction.
    Next stop was Omaha Beach - the scene of terrible American casualties on the first day - a stretch of nearly 7km of open flat beach facing a small plateau of land before hills. The Germans had razed all the village buildings along the seaside and fortified it all with machine gun nests, cannon emplacements, barbed wire and mines, and three metre wide anti tank trenches. The first and second wave of infantry were cut to pieces mostly in the water and on the beach - the third wave finally breached the defences and turned the tide. By nightfall they had suffered 2400 deaths but had landed 34000 troops. I realised that this is the American equivalent to our Galliopi in terms of what it means to them - only they had Eisenhower and Montgomery in charge compared to us having Churchill!
    Lastly - because you have to be selective as there are so many sites and museums - we went to a site of unprecedented daring and courage . La Pointe du Hoc is a high promontory between Omaha and Utah beaches that had six 150mm artillery pieces that could reach both of the American landing beaches and the landing craft. So it was aerial bombed five times in the lead up - see archival photo - and the Germans expected a land attack from the Allies. However an elite US group - The Rangers - trained on the Isle of Man to come in by boat, launch rocket propelled grappling hooks with rope and rope ladders onto the 35m cliffs and scale up and surprise attack. Great plan except the ropes got soaked by sea water and were too heavy to launch from the boats so had to be unloaded at the base and launched by which time the Germans saw them - so they are climbing up whilst be shot at. Amazingly they scaled the cliffs in ten minutes and then two days of combat ensured before they overran the German post - only 150m from the cliff! 135 Rangers died.
    After all this we needed to relax a bit so we headed north to a harbour town to have a late lunch of some legendary Normandy oysters - magnificent and washed down with local cider which again is Normandy specialty.
    Sorry for the essay but the whole experience was very profound and sad because once again we are witnessing the same in Ukraine because of another megalomaniac.
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