Via @ 70

Walking from Canterbury to Rome Les mer

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Via @ 70 Reisende
Dienville 12 miles
6. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
There is a wise old saying about being careful what you wish for. Last night I was looking for a little excitement just to give me something to write. Well it came, and in the most unlikely of ways.

I was kept awake last night by a ticking clock on the wall. No problem I thought. Just take the battery out and all would be well. Reached up to take it off the wall and it promptly fell onto my nose. No damage to the clock but my nose is not improved. No more selfies for a while just in case there are children reading.

Speaking of excitement I was most concerned about last night’s toilet. (Bet you weren’t expecting that). This thing was electric. Haven’t come across anything like it since Japan. At least in Japan there were instructions so you had an idea what might happen. This thing just had 2 buttons. Now I am quite nervous about the combination of electricity, water and my bare backside. I made sure I was well away before I pressed one button at random. Made the usual flushing noise. All good. But then came this much louder, grinding noise. What on earth was it doing? Cancel that. I don’t want to know. But I sure as hell wasn’t going to press that during the night. Would have woken the neighbourhood.

I now have the answer to one of the most pressing questions of the century. I am not sure I should just share it with all of you. Who knows who might be reading this and the use that could be made of the information. Oh well, if you insist. It’s this. You know those wee tubes of toothpaste you can get as a freebie at the dentist? 15ml apparently. Well they last 25 days with careful use. So if you and your better half are away for a week’s holiday you will be fine but don’t try and get 2 weeks out of it. Won’t work.

Camping tonight, therefore no electricity, so I was forced to take 2 hours over an avocado chicken burger and a litre of sparkling water. But footprint done and phone fully charged. Off to my tent now for another night wriggling about on that tiny blow-up mattress. What fun.

This is as close as I am likely to come to glamping. One of their glamping tents is not being used tonight so I am allowed to pitch my wee tent on that pitch. But not allowed to use the shack that presumably has their toilet etc. I wonder if it’s electric?Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Bar-sur-Aube 14 miles
7. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
What is it with kids and trampolines? Do they never want to stop? I have had a go. It’s OK but a couple of minutes, tops, and I’ve had enough. For some reason they put the glamping tents beside the kids play park in this campsite. Oh yes, there was a hedge in between but there isn’t a lot of sound-proofing in a hedge. So there I was, lying in my tent which was beside the glamping tent, just building up a fine head of steam as blasted kids kept bouncing up and down on this massive trampoline just outside. Finally the damn great church clock near the campsite struck 10pm and silence reigned. But I had lost an hour of much needed beauty sleep.

Now there is a strange thing about my tiny blow-up mattress. In the early days I found it almost impossible to sleep on. But last night I had little trouble. I don’t think I am that much smaller. It could be that I am getting used to a different place every night. I have now slept in 26 different places so I think I am just getting less fussy about where my head goes down.

No possibility of breakfast this morning in the campsite or as I left town. Did come across a boulangerie later in the morning but it was a Monday wasn’t it.

All roads today as I am going off route to save a day. The official route meanders a bit. No need.

As I was walking along thinking I was miles from anywhere I heard a lot of squealing. Damn great tower sticking up out of the trees. Appears that there is an Alton Towers type of place very close by.

Early arrival at tonight’s hotel so I dropped the bag and headed into town to see if I could catch a restaurant before they closed after lunch. No such luck but I did get a patisserie for quiche and cake. Bit cheaper. Caught up with domestic duties in the afternoon. Washing, charging phone, some advance booking etc. Tried out a Vietnamese carry out for tea. Not a great success. Made a change though.

The one drawback with hotels is they often have TVs and there are few things more annoying than hearing your fellow guest’s TV blaring out through the paper thin walls. And unlikely to have a 10pm curfew. I do think I am becoming Victor Meldrew sometimes.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Orges 21 miles
8. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
At 21 miles this was always going to be a fairly tough day but the terrain started to be distinctly hillier than the almost completely flat ground that I have been on before. On the plus side blisters seem to be a thing of the past and the weather is now more like the dry and sunny that I was expecting. Not hot yet, just a nice walking temperature.

Came upon a bar during the day and celebrated with a juice and a Magnum and a wee seat with my shoes off. I know how to live. Apart from that it was a non-stop 8 hour shift. Mostly in woods. Not unpleasant despite the length. Feet and back both grumbling a little at the end but nothing that wasn’t repaired by a shower and a half hour lie down.

During the afternoon I had a phone call from tonight’s chambre d’hote to ask if I was looking for an evening meal. Too right I was. Just finished it and very good it was too. The only slight issue was there was another pilgrim as well. 2 hours spent discussing Brexit with a Dutch guy taxed my social skills more than a little as well as being about 2 hours more Brexit discussion than I have ever had before or want to have again. Worryingly it looks like we are doing about the same distances each day so we may well meet again. But not tomorrow as he has arranged a 7am breakfast while I am going for my usual 8.30am. And we are in different places tomorrow night.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Leffonds 0 miles
9. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Not a good day.

At all.

Woke this morning, opened my eyes and turned my head. The room appeared to move from side to side and back, continuously. Very dizzy. Felt very squeamish. Managed to stand and make the 2 steps to the basin for some retching. Made it back to bed. Repeated every now and again. After what seemed like ages the room stopped moving as long as I kept my head perfectly still. This continued for 3 or 4 hours. Walking completely out of the question.

Eventually seemed to get better. Left me quite light-headed and weak.
Was able to get a doctor’s appointment who thought it was an inner ear or cervical spine issue. She didn’t seem too concerned. Gave me some medicine to take if it happens again. As well as taking me to the doctors my hostess gave me a lift to my next accommodation. I think she was quite keen to pass me on and free up my room. She did charge for the lift which is not unreasonable. I was a bit of an inconvenience all day.

I am now in a cute wee caravan in a corner of a massive garden. Also in the garden are a couple of horses and loads of chickens. I was very controlled over a 4 course pilgrim’s dinner as still quite delicate. Hoping that a long sleep will make everything fine for tomorrow’s walk.

On the plus side I think my feet quite enjoyed a day in bed.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Langres 17 miles
10. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Incredible feeling to wake up to normality. Yesterday morning was such a dark time. I thought the Via dream was over. I had no idea how I was going to get home. Had no idea what had happened or how long it was going to continue. Maybe for ever?

Such a relief it cleared up when it did. And able to get checked out and a lift to the next place was magic. Can happily wave two fingers to those crying cheat. After all, if an ancient pilgrim had pulled a sickie he would just have been put on a donkey for the day. So there. Let’s hear no more about it thank you very much.

Once I had got over the excitement of being able to get out of bed this morning I was looking forward to breakfast. There being a large chicken run I felt sure there would be a couple of fresh boiled eggs for breakfast. Planned a cute photo of two opened soft eggs, yolk running down nicely, especially for the Buc, him being such a fan of such things. No such luck. The French breakfast really is quite limited. Bread and jam or honey if you are lucky.

It was great to get back in the groove with the walking. Blue sky most of the day. Nothing much to report there.

When you are flicking through the usual boring photos of paths disappearing into the distance take a second look at the one with a road going off slightly right and a track going straight on because this caught me out. The map showed my route as continuing on the road, ignoring the track. Which is what I did. Checked in about another half mile and I was way out. Had to walk back to the junction and take the track. About the first time the map has been downright wrong. Not a very happy bunny.

Was surprisingly tired when I reached Langres although that was partly because it is one of these old stuck on top of a hill, with ramparts all round, villages. Very picturesque to be sure but a steep uphill slog isn’t appreciated at the end of the day.

Staying in an AirBnB place. No idea what the British ones are like but this one is a straightforward 2 bedroom apartment with one bathroom. I am in one bedroom and another couple is in the other and we share the bathroom, kitchen and living room. Just seems odd to me. I just hope they make allowances for pilgrims who like to sleep from 10 to 8 and take occasional trip to the bathroom in between. Funnily enough there was no room in the rucksack for a nice pair of winceyette pyjamas so I hope they are broad minded.

Found a creperie for dinner. I am thinking it might be my favourite type of restaurant here. They seem to open early. One pancake is about all I can manage anyway and they are pretty cheap. Tonight’s offering was a fancy crepe with the usual litre of sparkling water. Job done for 15€.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Chalindrey 16 miles
11. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Woken by my fellow guests arriving at 1.30am. They then knocked on my door to ask if they could use the shower. Couldn’t really refuse although I really wanted them to go to bed asap. In the morning my sociability got the better of me as I stayed in bed until after they left. I’ve never needed much of an excuse to stay in bed of course.

Big decision to make on the walking. The route took 16 miles to wander round a lake or I could take a road which got there in 6. It was a beautiful day and I had no excuse for the shortcut so I hoofed round the lake. Mostly in shade but still hot. Used the Tilley hat for only the second time. I suspect I look more of a prat than usual but too bad.

Apparently all French cemeteries must have a drinking water tap. Don’t ask me why. Dead bodies don’t drink much I would have thought. But damned useful for the pilgrims. Especially on days like today when I couldn’t get enough water down me. (Sitting outside in 25C while writing this and drinking yet another litre of water. Don’t think I have had a pee all day - but you might not have wanted to know that. )

In a chambre d’hote tonight again. As luck would have it on the hottest night so far I am in this wee room in the eaves with only a tiny window (see photo). Going to be sweaty one I think.

I was told there was a fast food place nearby so I went out to look for it. Came upon a bar. Now I don’t think I have had a drink for at least a couple of weeks but the heat did make it seem quite appealing. Half of Leffe went down very well. Got instructions to the local chippie. Just like student days, following the pub with a chippie. Only managed half of it. Just don’t seem to have much of an appetite these days.

Can’t see that lasting when I get home!Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Champlitte 15 miles
12. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Well all I can say about last night is thank goodness I am only 5 ft 7 as I banged my head often enough even with that rather modest height. Just the strangest room I have ever slept in.

While “enjoying” the usual rubbish breakfast it occurred to me that the pilgrim diet has virtually no fruit and vegetables at all and it is quite difficult to improve it. Nothing is available at breakfast unless you count orange juice. Lunch doesn’t usually happen at all except for a Snickers bar and dinner seldom has any veg options at all.

So I made a mental note to try harder to source f & v whenever possible. Luckily today I passed a supermarket on the way out of town this morning and purchased a couple of bananas and a massive Pink Lady apple for lunch. Start as I mean to continue.

Walking was fairly uneventful except for a thunderstorm for the last half hour. No point in getting the waterproofs out as I would be washing out my clothes as soon as I arrived anyway and it wasn’t cold.

Managed to book a pilgrim’s place for tonight at the last minute. Quite relieved as I have avoided wild camping so far and I was in no hurry to start. This place is a bit grim - the shower has been blocked since the last occupant had a shower but it is only 20€ and so far I seem to be the only occupant. Just one bedroom with 2 sets of bunk beds crammed in.

No restaurant but there is a supermarket in walkable distance. Went for gazpacho and a sort of “prawn on a bed of cold mixed veg” thing with a lemon meringue pie to follow. For those interested in such things a litre of gazpacho is quite a lot. And I have some things for breakfast/lunch tomorrow. Doing my best with the f & v stuff.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Dampierre-sur-Salon 12 miles
13. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Bit dizzy when I got up this morning. Not nearly as bad as before but disconcerting nevertheless. Had a distinctly diy breakfast of banana, pain au chocolat and some leftover Orangina from last night. With a lemon meringue pie also left over from last night. When I did finally get going about 10.30am I packed my bag and went to leave only to discover I hadn’t put any lenses in and my glasses were well down the bag. Interesting that the effort of putting down the bag and unpacking was more than I was prepared for. So the day was spent in a bit of a blur. When walking you only really need to see where you are putting your feet, everything else is just nice to have.

Nice short day of only 12 miles. Bit hot though. Quite clammy. Even though I had brought lunch I couldn’t be bothered stopping for it. Arrived at the next place by 2.30pm. A chambre d’hote with all mod-cons. Somewhere to wash my clothes, somewhere outside to dry them, even air conditioning in the bedroom. And a 3 course meal provided. Just great.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Busey-les-Gy 18 miles
14. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
There is something about watching lightening flashing nearby while having breakfast that encourages a degree of tardiness in a pilgrim. I have never been described as a fast mover first thing in the morning but I took that to new heights this morning. It was only once I was convinced that the small thunderstorm had indeed passed us by that I ventured forth.

All went well for about an hour before the tell-tale rumble re-appeared and a few heavy drops started. Panic stations to get the waterproof cover on the rucksack before it got really wet. It’s too warm to worry about getting wet myself but I wouldn’t want my bag contents to get soaked. Passport, testimonial, credit cards etc as well as sleeping bag and so on are best to be kept dry. But despite threatening nothing really came of it although it did try again once or twice in the morning before it settled down to just blue sky and heat.

Was having a lovely blether with Anne when I passed what turned out to be the only open shop/bar/cafe in the whole day. Didn’t want to stop and interrupt the chat. Not getting food wasn’t the issue as I had a banana and apple that I have been carrying a while that needed eaten but I missed getting liquid as it turned out there were no water possibilities today either. And it was a hot one.

My host last night had suggested a shortcut for today that brought the distance down from 22 miles on the official route to a more pleasant 18 miles. Would have been rude to ignore local info so I went for it. It made for a lot of road walking on what turned out to be a busier road than I would have liked but I was grateful on arrival that I didn’t have another 4 miles to walk especially as tomorrow is a 20 miler.

A strange incident happened as I got close to finish. A local worthy started speaking to me and asked if I wanted a photo. I assumed he meant did I want him to take a photo of me. We are both well past the age of taking selfies (as you may have noticed) so I just thought it was a kind gesture so agreed. He nipped inside the neighbouring barn and came out holding a muckle great cockerel. I now thought he wanted me to hold the beast while he took a photo of us. Why, who knows? But no, he proceeded to stick this thing on his own head and pose for me to take the photo. Which I duly did and you can enjoy at your leisure.

I am in a gite for pilgrims tonight and I have a fellow pilgrim. From Luxembourg I think and only started a couple of days ago but looks like we might be covering the same sort of distances so he might become a bit of an issue. I would so much prefer to be on my own.

Dinner was provided which was just as well as there was nothing available anywhere else. It did.Les mer
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Besancon 20 miles
15. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Slightly unusual breakfast as it had been left the previous night by my hosts. Slice of plum tart (that should have been last night’s dessert), banana and lots of coffee. Couldn’t face the bread and an egg that had also been left.

Did the usual packing of the rucksack only to wonder where the waterproof cover had gone to. As mentioned before I can live without being able to see but that cover is vital especially as it was raining at the time. So everything out of the bag to find the blessed thing.

Another long, hot and sweaty day walking. Highlight was lunch of a banana, snickers bar and a warm can of Orangina. Very pleasant. Found a couple of cemeteries during the day to keep the water topped up.

This morning’s route was described in the book as a morass of mud, mire and mosquitoes. It did have its moments but it wasn’t that bad. No sign of mosquitoes anyway.

Had my first equipment failure a while back. My power bank stopped working completely and was promptly ditched. Needed replaced as on a long day my phone needs carefully nursed so as not to run out and leave me completely lost. I would have no idea where I was staying or where I was in the first place. This is the largest city I pass through in France so I thought I would easily get one. Except today seems to be some sort of French National holiday. All shops shut. And they don’t open that early tomorrow. Fortunately Amazon Prime came to the rescue and one sourced, ordered and paid for from the comforts of my bed. Glynice can bring it out next week when she comes.

The place I am staying tonight is massive. Built in 17th and 18th centuries and could hold hundreds. Seems to be just me here though. But when last night’s pilgrim turned up on spec they turned him away saying there was no space. Bizarre. I think they don’t like people just turning up. Advance booking required.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Foucherans 15 miles
16. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
No breakfast possible other than small Snickers bar and some water. Shame because there was a stonking climb out of Besancon heading into the Jura Mountains. Brief stop at a viewpoint and statue then on. Had high hopes of some food and water at a village not long after. It thought enough of the Via to have a nice big sign giving the distances from Canterbury (830 kms) and to Rome (1,272 kms), giving me 40% completion so far. Unfortunately it didn’t go so far as having any shops open for pilgrims. Only food available was a full-blown restaurant. Seemed greedy but I had a very nice pizza with a litre of lemonade. Lovely. Sat outside and let my clothes dry slightly in the breeze. To be honest I am not sure if I would have been that popular inside. Possibility of a slight odour sometimes.

Afternoon turned into a bit of a slog. Thought the food and liquid would have helped but they didn’t really. It is still over 30C each day and that doesn’t help either.

Had a short but unpleasant road section. Not happy with lorries on one side of me and a metal barrier on the other.

Tonight’s place is very old and quirky but everything here. Well no bed linen, towels or toiletries, but it is only 20€ a night for pilgrims. And someone brought in dinner for 10€. Don’t know where from but don’t really care. It did and there was nothing else to be had. On my own again. Grand.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Mouthier-Haute-Pierre 16 miles
17. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
A surprisingly good sleep. Not a sound to be heard. I am easily put off sleeping if there is any noise, tv nearby, folk talking or even breathing noisily, snoring, traffic, birdsong, insects the list is endless. But this was lovely. Didn’t let the fact that the pillow had no pillowcase and had probably been used by hundreds of pilgrims put me off in the slightest.

Slice of toast and jam and a coffee for breakfast and off I went.

Slight rain for the first couple of hours but not unpleasant. Kept the temperature manageable. Most of the morning spent on a beautifully surfaced old railway track, gently descending. You don’t get much better than that. It did have an interesting tunnel though.

For the first time I am in a fairly touristy area. Very picturesque. And tourists mean more facilities. Found a great cafe/restaurant for lunch. Didn’t know what I was getting, just that you could order a large plate or a small plate. Went for the small which was just as well as it was quite big enough. After it came I wasn’t much the wiser except it was all vegan. Looked shockingly healthy. The one thing I did understand from the lovely ladies serving was that I had a glass of chilled courgette soup. That’s a first for me.

Afternoon was hot again but helped by an ice cream stop on the way.
Can’t remember what tonight’s place is costing and I don’t want to ask because it is spectacular. A rambling old house with probably up to 10 bedrooms. Dinner was served on various tables spread round the garden. For some reason the lady of the house placed mine in the middle of the garden with an amazing view. No choice for dinner but it was a sort of vegetable stew with salmon & trout mixed in. Very nice too.

Altogether a pretty good day food-wise. About the most, and certainly the healthiest, food I have had so far.

I’ll put up with some tourists knocking about if that’s the payback anytime.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Pontarlier 15 miles
18. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Last night ended up being 72€ which I thought was pretty good for dinner, bed and breakfast with that view.

Started this morning with a 500m climb but luckily most of that was in shade. Spectacular walk up beside a river through trees. The photos don’t really do it justice. There were places where you really did not want to slip so I was grateful that the ground was dry. Would have been a bit of a knee trembler if muddy. Lovely stop half way up for a litre of sparkling water and an Orangina. (Plus my banana and Snickers bar). Views are so much better since Besancon although the hills do make for harder going.

Another youth hostel tonight. Interesting shower cabinet. Tiny, walled on 3 sides and with a pair of doors that opened inwards. Luckily, I have lost a couple of pounds since I started but it was still a squeeze. And then I dropped my precious wee bar of soap. The contortions involved in picking it up would have caused much mirth if anybody had been watching but I was just worried about what would have happened if I had got stuck. With inward doors that would have been me until a cleaner turned up in the morning.

Out for another Japanese meal tonight. Strange that it is such good value here. All the French restaurants seem pricey unless you just want a burger and fries and I think I have had enough of them. I suppose Scottish restaurants are dear in Scotland.

I think I may have realised why I don’t have much of an appetite here. Because it is hot I am having a litre of chilled sparkling water with every meal. Once you have got one of those in your tummy there ain’t much room for anything else.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Les Fourgs 8 miles
19. august 2023, Frankrike ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
Only 8 miles today but it did pack quite a lot of hills into that. Even with the latest permitted departure from the youth hostel of 10am and a bit of sight-seeing on the way I arrived just after 1.30pm. I was hopeful of getting something for lunch but it was like a ghost town. Several shops and restaurants closed. Looked a mixture of closed for good, closed for a while or just closed for a 4 hour lunch. One shop said open and the door was indeed open but when I went inside you only accessed a large vending machine which sold big dods of cheese or cold meat. Nae bread.

Luckily, just as I was giving up, I noticed a bar which had someone moving inside. Went inside and asked the jimmy if they were open to which he seemed to reply he wasn’t. But just in case, he asked what I was after. After a short (because I don’t know much French) conversation he agreed to make me a sanny and sell me a litre bottle of lemonade. Magic. He did produce the largest sanny I have ever seen. I think he had cut a loaf in two and then filled one half with a massive chunk of pate. Threw in a couple of gerkins and a tomato and there you go. He did charge 15€ for the pair but then again it would have done your average family of four for a perfectly adequate lunch.

Slightly disappointed that I couldn’t get into tonight’s pilgrim’s hostel straight away, just had to wait outside for an hour and a half. But I was very early. These places are amazing. You have no idea in advance what to expect. Every one is different. This one is a couple’s house rather than being a separate, rather dilapidated property that they often are. I am in a spare bedroom and would share the toilet and bathroom with them but they have gone to sleep with their grand-children in another property they are building nearby. Only charging 26€ a night so they aren’t doing it for the money. No overt religious signs so they just seem to like pilgrims. Seen it frequently that pilgrims as a group are welcomed by individuals or communities, possibly because of historical connections, in a way that tourists certainly aren’t.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Orbe 18 miles
20. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
My hostess warned me at breakfast that today would be hot and so it proved. Started with 150m of gentle climbing and then it looked like downhill the rest of the day. Wasn’t quite like that but enough downhill to make my feet hurt. The soles of these shoes are wearing thin and so I feel every small stone especially on downhill sections. Only got a couple of days in them before the cavalry is coming bringing replacements as well as all sorts of other goodies like more contact lenses, another wee tube of toothpaste etc.

Stopped at a supermarket at the first village to get something for lunch. Thought it a little strange that although the village was small the supermarket was massive and the large car park was packed. On a Sunday morning? Twigged after a while that a large proportion of the cars were sporting Swiss number plates. I was less than 5 miles from the Swiss border and folk were coming across to stock up.

Bought a litre of Orangina, some bananas, cookies and Snickers. A healthy diet. Sat outside in the car park looking like a complete dosser while chomping away. Little disappointed that no one offered any money. Didn’t even give me a second glance. Maybe they are used to pilgrims.

Nothing much to the Swiss border but I was amused how the narrow gravel path in France became a full-blown very smooth road in Switzerland. Amazing what unlimited money does.

Before crossing the border I had visited my last French cemetery to stock up with water. None to be seen anywhere. Bit upset as I had finished my supplies in anticipation. Had a further 5 hours of very hot walking to do without any liquid. After reaching the campsite I have drunk 5 litres and will take another litre in to the tent with me.

The campsite was next to a large outdoor swimming pool which had a restaurant. Fab. Had to sit inside where it was boiling because it looked like every outside table had at least one smoker. Smoking seems just as trendy here as it is in France.

Prices were fairly scandalous. I went for pasta carbonara and a large bottle of water, being about the cheapest on the menu but still got through 25.50SFr. Ouch.Les mer
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ReisendeWe are near Briancon just now Stuart and it’s got noticeably warmer last 2 days. Like you say, it makes a huge difference to get your ascent walking done early. Also saw similar with your pilgrims accommodation and where we staying in Refuges and Gites for the GR routes. There seems to be no consistency and you never know what you are going to get! I guess it’s all part of the experience. Bonnie journee!
21.08.2023SvarOversette
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Penthalaz 17 miles
21. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Bit of a breakthrough on the sleeping arrangements which I feel the need to share. When camping I have this ridiculously small inflatable mat that I sort of lie on. And a small inflatable pillow that rests on the mat and is almost in a state of continuous motion as the combination of 2 inflatable things is incredibly unstable. The mat is only about a foot and a half wide at the most. Now here’s the tricky bit. I like to sleep on my side with one or more legs bent. There is no way a bent leg can fit on the mat if my backside is also on it. Knee ends up on the ground. Uncomfortable after a short while. But the mat has a sort of thicker bit at the end which can work as a pillow leaving the actual pillow free to be used to support the bent leg. Magic. So much more comfortable. The more astute of you might question why it has taken 8 of the 10 nights I’m camping to work it out but that’s just me.

While lying there this morning I got to wonder about ants. There were many of them just about everywhere in the tent. When I pack away the tent and carry it 15 miles down the road and then unpack it what do the little buggers make of their new surroundings? Won’t be able to meet up with their mates for a couple of bevvies on a Friday night anymore. Do they make new chums? Are they treated like illegal immigrants by the locals?

Anyway of much more practical concern was the need to get up and the tent packed before the sun hit it and it quickly became the furnace that it was yesterday evening.

One thing I have noticed about Switzerland that I do like is the provision of benches. Lots of them. Must have passed more today than in over 5 weeks going through France. Elderly pilgrims do like a wee seat every now and again, preferably in the shade.

Today started well with a breakfast in a supermarket cafe and I had high hopes of a village that was a couple of hours in. Several shops and bars and restaurants all because it was quite pretty. But not on a Monday in Switzerland apparently. The church was open but not much else. Went a bit short of water until a wee cafe in a hospital complex which did the business. Always a little nervous going too near hospitals in Switzerland especially as my language skills aren’t that great and they do have a bit of a reputation for taking things to the end. But this one didn’t seem that type. Made sure I didn’t sign any disclaimers anyway.

Got my first glimpse of the Alps today. Expect there will lots of photos of them over the next 10 days or so. Tonight’s campsite looks fun. Couldn’t be closer to the railway if it tried and trains seem to run at least every 5 minutes. Doesn’t give much time to nod off between them. Looks like it’s the mainline between Geneva & Lausanne and the rest of Switzerland. Wonderful.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Lausanne 16 miles
22. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌙 28 °C
Dreadful night. Hot, sticky, noisy, airless. Sometimes camping isn’t as much fun as you think it should be.

Off sharp as I was due to meet a young lady later. Temperature lovely for walking until the sun came up.

Then another hot one. Forecast is for another couple of hot days and then start to reduce. By Sunday it might be 14C cooler. Can’t wait!

The signs have completely changed in Switzerland. No more of the French signs with their Via Francigena symbols or Red and White flashes for the GR145. Even worse is the loss of the red and white crosses to indicate the wrong way. Now I need to know the name of the next place I am going to and hope that the Swiss have decided to mark a route going there. They have nice big signs listing all sort of places. After that they have large yellow diamond symbols to indicate the way. Trouble is they show the way to something. You don’t know it is the way you want, you just know it is the way to somewhere. And if you do go off route there is just a slow realisation that you haven’t seen any signs for ages to give you a clue that things are not going well.

Reached Lake Geneva. Looked lovely with the Alps on the far side. Long walk along the lakeside, feeling very hot and sticky, carrying that damn great bag, passing all the young things lying about, wearing not a lot and looking a whole lot more comfortable than I was feeling.

Reached Lausanne and then started walking uphill to get to the hotel. Passed a chemist where I got the temperature confirmed. Because the footprints automatically show the temperature for the time and place that I post (usually after 10pm) it has been suggested that I have been exaggerating the heat. Believe me I can tell the difference between backpacking in 26C and 36C.

This city must be about the hilliest I have ever been to. All up, down and then back up again. Managed (just) to get to the hotel, drop the bag off, quick shower, change of clothes and off to the train station to meet the gaffer. By the time we got back to the hotel, via a wee ice cream halt, I needed another shower and change.

Basic, but pricey Vietnamese dinner to follow. One course and a bottle of water got rid of £70. Of course, paying for two doesn’t help.Les mer
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ReisendeFeel for you with this heat. It’s 36c for us in Venosc which is just a few miles away from you. Pity we could almost have popped by to say hello as we are in Morges on Friday visiting friends who live there. Suspect you will be long gone by then. Say hi to Glynis.
23.08.2023SvarOversette
ReisendeSorry Paul. In Aigle by Friday.
23.08.2023SvarOversette
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Rivaz 10 miles
23. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
For complicated reasons today was a bit different. We walked the next 10 miles of the Via and then got the train back so we had 2 nights in the one hotel. The first time in the last 6 weeks that I have stayed more than 1 night anywhere.

First we opted for the hotel breakfast but as this cost 15SFr each we had to go some to justify the cost. Took an hour and we did our level best.

Felt really strange to start walking without the big bag. Could really get used to it very easily. Very gentle walking along the lake-side, stopping repeatedly at benches when they were in shade. Very chilled out but it seemed to take ages to cover just 5 miles for the first half. And it was anything but chilly. You might have thought that the lake would have kept it a little cooler but it didn’t seem to.

Despite passing many restaurants full of folk enjoying fancy lunches we settled for pilgrim fare of tart, bananas and water from a supermarket. At 5SFr probably better value.

In the afternoon the route headed up the terraces for even better views.
Lovely air-conditioned train back to Lausanne. Spot of sight-seeing up the tower of the cathedral and back to the hotel.

After 6 weeks virtually tee-total it didn’t take long to fall under Glynice’s influence and have a couple of pints of lager for tea together with some sort of Swiss tapas. So much better than last night. Might get used to it I suppose.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Territet 11 miles
24. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌙 28 °C
After stockpiling another 15SFr breakfast it was off to get the train to where we walked to yesterday.

Sweaty hoof up the slopes beside the vines and a very pleasant, if hot, walk along the terraces. Dropped down to the lake-side at Vevey where we have tonight’s hotel. Left the bags at the hotel, (getting a complementary glass of wine as we did so), bought 6 litres of water to make up for what we sweated in the morning, a couple of bananas for lunch and wandered along the lakeside, feeling like we were off on a holiday stroll. After a couple of hours very pleasant walking, checking out the big fork, Charlie Chaplin’s statue and Freddie Mercury’s statue on the way, we reached the station at Territet. Train back to Vevey.

The reason for all this faffing is because I had originally planned to have a rest day in Lausanne to let Glynice talk for a day uninterrupted by walking, and then have two 15 mile days. Decided we didn’t need the rest day (she is more than capable of talking and walking at the same time) and we could spread the distance out into 3 short days. But the hotels were non-cancellable so they couldn’t be changed. Makes sort of sense I hope.

Hoping that today is the last of the very hot days. Forecast tomorrow is a max of 29C, dropping on Saturday to a max of 21C. By Monday the max is a scarcely believable 16C, colder than Edinburgh. Cooled off this afternoon with a dip in Lake Geneva. Portobello beach it wasn’t. Much less sand but a shade warmer.

For dinner tonight we checked out the restaurant attached to the hotel but couldn’t cope with the prices. A pizza for two coming to £45 or about £30 each for pasta. So off to the local supermarket for a Bonnie & Wild type of offering. Not at all bad for £35 including a couple of beers.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Aigle 10 miles
25. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Nice view from our room but noisy until about 2am with neighbouring bars and restaurants. Very hot in the room even with the fan going full blast. You either shut the windows and bake or open the windows and get the din.

Final train journey. Again to where we finished yesterday. Very easy walk along to the end of the lake. Supermarket lunch, and then afternoon walk alongside the railway. Doesn’t get much flatter. Managed to go slow enough that we were able to check in when we arrived.

Temperature down a little and no nearby bars or restaurants so you would think we would get plenty of sleep. But no, there is an historic tram that rumbles past outside until midnight and starts again at 5am apparently.

As you would expect more beer again tonight. You would think madam was on holiday rather than sharing a deeply meaningful pilgrimage. Tonight it was washing down a very pleasant Thai.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Saint Maurice 11 miles
26. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Tram not that much of an issue. Only 2 per hour late on but didn’t stop until 1.30am according to the gaffer. I decided to sleep rather than count the trams. Each to their own.

Lovely day when we set off. Much cooler than of late. Just right for walking. After a while the rain started. Gently to begin with. Could be classified as refreshing given the recent heat. Got silly later. Just solid rain. But a lot more pleasant to walk in than excessive heat, believe me.

Coming upon a restaurant at lunchtime was just too inviting to pass by. In for lunch and strip off the wet jackets. Very nice too.

Rain had not relented by the time we had finished but less than an hour to go. Arrived at the hotel pretty much bang on the earliest check in of 3pm and by 4pm we had showered, changed, done the washing and fully recovered. Amazing how easy it felt to walk in normal temperatures, rain or no rain.

Glynice hit the town while I had domestic duties - accommodation to arrange further down the line.

Then time to celebrate. Half-way in both days completed and distance walked. Lovely Swiss meal of fondue and rosti with a half litre bottle of the local wine.

A very pleasant day indeed.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Martigny 11 miles
27. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
Amazing how each hotel has something different to keep us from getting a decent sleep. Last night we had church bells. Amazingly loud. Every quarter of an hour with extra helpings on the hour. No rush to get up as another short day and the weather was meant to get a little better during the day. Unfortunately, it meant that the locusts, ie our fellow guests, had been at the breakfast buffet before us. Slim pickings left.

We got going as late as allowed and the rain had indeed improved from heavy to lightish. Over the first hour it went off completely. Ended up being quite a nice day for walking which itself was pretty average. Would have been better if the clouds had lifted but the temperature was so much better than previous days. Bit of a shame that we have gone from blue sky and 36C to raining and low cloud at 16C. Somewhere in the middle would have been perfect. I’m thinking blue sky with white fluffy clouds and 26C.

Transitional day for scenery. Away from the lake but not really into the mountains yet. “Cascade de la Pissevache” sounds much nicer than the English translation of “Cow’s piss waterfall” don’t you think?

Arrived at the next hotel early afternoon without feeling the need for lunch. By the time we had got ourselves organised it had started raining again. Dithered about for a bit hoping it would stop. When we did hit the town we found it was pretty dead. Switzerland retail doesn’t really do Sunday afternoons.

Booked an early meal at a place recommended by our hotel for raclette which I had taken a notion for after the fondue of the previous evening. Better to spend 28€ on a Swiss speciality in Switzerland than 23€ on their take of an Italian pasta dish. Very nice it was too.

Back to the hotel for another early night.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Orsieres 12 miles
28. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
Heavy rain all night. Didn’t encourage an early start. And we couldn’t get to our next place, a BnB, before 5pm anyway. The book had various warning comments about this morning’s walk. “The most difficult stretch of the entire Via Francigena”, “precarious footing”, “scramble among boulders”, “slippery stretch among rocks and tree roots with an abrupt drop-off down to the river 20m below”. The train was recommended and Glynice happily took it. Spending a couple of hours sitting in a cafe knitting and blethering to anyone remotely in earshot while consuming coffee with lemon meringue pie seemed a better idea than a very wet scramble. In truth it did live up to its billing, helped by 24 hours of rain, plenty of mud, lots of fallen leaves, and wearing shoes with very little tread left. Nearly 3 hours of very focused hard work. Almost every step had to be carefully placed. Luckily the “route” was very well marked out because in amongst the boulders I wouldn’t have had a clue where to go otherwise.

Finally reunited with the lady, grabbed some lunch and did the last 5 or 6 miles in almost dry conditions. Much easier walking in very alpine-like terrain. Checked out the station ready for Glynice’s departure tomorrow and then reached the BnB bang on 5pm. Quickly got organised and back into the village for a very acceptable dinner.

While getting organised I realised that tomorrow’s campsite also had a small dormitory for pilgrims. Managed to convert my tent booking for a dormitory one which meant that I could send my tent, sleeping bag and mat home with Glynice as it was the last night I was hoping to have to camp. Really happy to get that weight out of my rucksack. Of course it does mean that if I can’t get accommodation at any stage I don’t have any back-up. Cross that bridge when I get to it.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Bourg-Saint-Pierre 9 miles
29. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌫 6 °C
Up fairly sharp as Glynice had a train to catch. Actually 3 trains to catch with only a 2 minute change-over between them. Would be considered a bit risky in the UK especially with a flight to catch at the end but here it is just taken for granted that it would all work. The only hold up with the whole journey was an hour delay on the EasyJet flight and an hour and a half waiting for baggage reclaim in Edinburgh.

Once the lady was helped onto the train and silence descended I headed off into the hills. Last time I did the whole climb to the Col de Saint Bernard in one day but it was a bit of a slog. This time I opted for 2 days but it did mean they were pretty short days although they do each have about 1,000m of climbing. The rain seems to have much reduced, just the occasional flurry now and again, but the increased height I’m at now (about 1,600m) makes it quite cold. About 3C this afternoon, with a bit of a breeze as well. As these few days are the only ones when I am likely to be cold I opted not to bring any cold-weather gear. No gloves, warm hat, fleece etc. It seemed logical not to carry these things for months just for the sake of a few days but that doesn’t help when you are in those cold days.

One thing I have learned in life is that I feel the cold much more if I have not eaten enough so I was very keen to check out the food options as soon as I arrived at tonight’s digs. Everything was very spread out in this village and again it seemed that Tuesday is not a good day to be hungry in Switzerland. No food shops here at all and only one restaurant open. Luckily it was pretty good as well even though it meant yet another burger and chips. At least in Italy I am hoping to get pizza/pasta. What worries me slightly is that it is only a couple of days since I was complaining about being too hot and now I’m freezing so how long is it going to take me to get fed up with pizza/pasta?

Tonight’s dormitory is another strange affair. One large room with kitchen facilities, dining tables and chairs, settees etc and 4 mattresses laid out on a mezzanine floor above. Anyone using the campsite seems allowed to come in and make themselves at home. A couple did just that and had the longest and loudest meal I have ever suffered through. I now need to get them out so I can get the lights out and get to sleep. I hate communal living.Les mer
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Via @ 70 Reisende
Col du Grand-St-Bernard 8 miles
30. august 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
I managed to get the other couple out at the back of 10pm. They were in no hurry as they were camping, undoubtedly in a freezing tent. And trying to charge everything while inside of course.

Just so glad I had managed to change my booking from the tent to the dormitory. My very thin sleeping bag would have been totally inadequate as it was barely above freezing. As it was I borrowed another duvet from the next mattress so was quite cosy under both duvets. No rush to get up but as I had locked the dorm after I was alone no one else could get in to have their breakfast inside until I had done so. Decided 9am was civilised. As there were no shops I hadn’t got much for my own breakfast. It doesn’t take long to eat a small Snickers bar with a cup of instant coffee. Provisions for the 4 hour, 1,000m climb was a small packet of peanuts.

Waited until after 10am to start in the hope that the cloud would lift and it would get a little less freezing. Luckily the walk was almost all uphill and carrying a bag uphill does help to warm you up. The cloud didn’t improve much but even very hazy sun was better than none at all.

Got quite excited as I approached some buildings as I noticed from afar that there was a board outside one of them of the type that usually advertises a cafe or bar. Mulled over what I would have but when I reached it the message just said the Relais was closed. Bother.

Turned into a lovely climb. Not unlike Munroing in Scotland. Just a bigger scale. The last hour was a bit of a slog especially with the lack of fuel. Goodness knows how I managed to do both yesterday and today’s climb in one day last time round. I know I was just a youngster but even so.
Reached the cafe at the top for a celebration hot chocolate (fab) and ham sandwich (dire doorstop).

Checked into the hostel. Massive affair. Been a pilgrims’hostel for 1,000 years but I don’t know how much of the building dates from then. There is a much newer building attached by a bridge where you can book private rooms (over £110 a night) but here we are in 4 bedded rooms. At least they are 4 beds , not like the mattresses on the ground of last night, and not bunk beds which I hate. I think the hostel is used by a lot of walking groups as there are loads of folk wandering about with all sorts of walking gear.
Did a quick check at “dinner” and I reckon there are over 200 staying here. I might well be the only pilgrim although there is a guy cycling the Via.

Dinner was as bad as expected. Communal eating of watery soup, meat stew with couscous and a small dod of sponge cake. Full I am not. Still, it is a reasonable-sized town in Italy tomorrow so I am sure I can make up for it.Les mer
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