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  • Jour 121

    Adelaide: South Australian Museum

    10 avril, Australie ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    When we decided to book the Atura Hotel @ Adelaide Airport, we knew we would need transportation to get into the city today to do a bit of sightseeing. Our research showed that there were two public buses that left from the airport that would work for us … a 5-minute walk from the hotel.

    So, after breakfast, we walked over to the bus stop, bought our day passes, hopped on the J2 bus, got off on Greenfell Street in the CBD, and cut through Rundle Mall to get to the South Australian Museum (SAM) … with a short coffee break at Caffe da Marco since we had some time to kill before the museum opened at 10:00a.

    Google bills SAM as a natural history museum. It is more than that. Exhibits range from the first signs of early complex life and some of the oldest rocks in the world (3,600 million years old), to a comprehensive collection of Aboriginal culture, to minerals from all over the world and Australian meteorites, to taxidermied animals, to artifacts from Pacific Cultures, to the Australian Polar Collection … heavily focused on Mawson’s expedition, to Ancient Egypt artifacts … including a couple of mummies, and more.

    We thoroughly enjoyed the museum … and were especially left in awe of the Addyman Plesiosaur, the finest known opalized fossil anywhere in the world.
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  • Jour 120

    Bye Bye KI … Hello Adelaide

    9 avril, Australie ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    As we were leaving the Sculpture Trail in Penneshaw, one of the volunteers mentioned that we’d find a mob of kangaroos at the end of the road.

    With about 45 minutes to spare before we had to check in for the ferry to the mainland, we decided to see if we could find them. Alas none to be seen anywhere. But we did see sheep that weren’t leery of people approaching the fence line.

    The 45-minute ferry ride was uneventful, though there was quite a bit of motion of the ocean when the vessel reached the mid-point of the Backstairs Passage. Before we knew it, the announcement was being made for the drivers to go to their vehicles to prepare for disembarkation.

    A smooth drive to Adelaide … slow until we got to a passing lane where we could get ahead of a semi-full of sheep that had crossed over on the ferry with us. Traffic in the suburbs was slow going and it was 2:30p by the time we made it to the airport.

    With an early flight on the 11th, I had opted to book us into Atura, the airport hotel that is attached to the terminal instead of staying in the city. Turned out to be a good choice. Our room is small … but with all the amenities we need. A modern ambiance with simple but colorful furnishings. The bonus? Returning the car to Budget was easy … just a short walk back to the hotel once we had accomplished that task.

    We spent the afternoon relaxing. I managed to do some catch-up bookkeeping until the kitchen opened and dinner service began at 5:00p. The Hangar is an open-concept restaurant in the lobby. We were resigned to typical airport hotel food, but were pleasantly surprised by both the taste and the presentation. We shared a variety of dishes and a sweet treat.

    Tomorrow is a sightseeing day in the city. We plan to check out what we didn’t have time for when we visited Adelaide off the Regatta in January.
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  • Jour 120

    KI: Sculpture Trail

    9 avril, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Once again we woke up to overcast skies. At least there was no rain in the forecast.

    Our AirBNB check-out deadline was 10:00a. Our re-scheduled ferry was at 11:30a, with check-in NLT 11:00a. We were out of the house shortly after 8:00a … having had a quick breakfast first. Why? We had some sightseeing plans.

    First up was the Kangaroo Island Sculpture Trail in Penneshaw … where we were greeted by a Tammar wallaby … native to South and Western Australia … and one of the smallest of the wallabies. Little did we know then that we’d be seeing plenty of them on our meandering walk.

    The 1-mile long trail turned out to be more of a garden/park with paved and dirt paths meandering through the grounds … a bush walk of sorts. The sign described the gradients as short, steep hills with many steps. We found it to be a comfortable trail and negotiated it with no difficulties.

    The park is an ongoing project, with sculptures being added as funding permits. In addition to the sculptures, there are haikus by a local poet — Bev Willson — hidden in nooks and crannies around the grounds. Fun.
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  • Jour 119

    KI: FCNP Part II … Remarkable Rocks

    8 avril, Australie ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    From Weirs Cove, we drove to Remarkable Rocks … one of the most popular places in Flinders Chase National Park. The good news is that today there weren’t many people crawling over the rocks like an ant colony.

    Remarkable rocks are known as a domed inselbergs … aka islands of rock … dating back some 500 million years. Weathering along fractures led to the formation of isolated blocks atop the dome. The changes are not yet complete … rain, wind, particles of salt all continue to erode and shape them.

    As we scrambled around the rocks, we found lots of interesting photo ops. The wind was ferocious at times … as you will see in the photos. But the temp was comfy. I just wish the sun was shining as the orange lichen would have added a brilliant pop of color to the scenery. Oh well … it is what it is. And at least it wasn’t raining. At least not then.

    It was only 1:00p when completed our visit to the park. Still quite early. But we wanted to stop at Seal Cove to see the Australian fur seals and then continue onto Cape Willoughby on the Dudley Peninsula to check out the mob of kangaroos we were told we could see there.

    As it turns out, we could have stayed much longer at FCNP. No sooner were we out of the park that the cloud cover thickened. And with it came heavy rain coming down in sheets that veiled the scenery. So, we ended up driving straight back to the AirBNB instead … to do laundry and prepare for tomorrow’s departure.
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  • Jour 119

    KI: Flinders Chase NP … Part I

    8 avril, Australie ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    We had set this day aside to explore Flinders Chase National Park [FCNP] … some 170 miles roundtrip … on the far west side of KI.

    The plan was to drive to the farthest point and then make our way back. The GPS wanted to route us via the sealed roads, which would have taken us out of our way considerably. Instead, using the paper map I had picked up while on the ferry, I navigated us to our destination via a series of unsealed roads until it made sense to connect to the sealed South Coast Road for the remainder of the drive.

    On arriving at FCNP, we stopped at the visitor center to pay the entry fee — AUD $13pp … concession/senior not applicable to foreign visitors. The clerk at the desk then gave us the lay of the land and made recommendations on the order in which to hike and visit the sites. We didn’t have time for any real hikes … and, in fact, only managed to see a tiny corner of the vast area protected as a national park. We were delighted to see how well the flora has recovered after the devastating bushfires that decimated 96% of the park

    Rounding the corner as we left the VC, we came across a trio of kangaroos. We slowed down to give them a chance to cross. First they hopped along in front of us and jumped into the bushes. But almost immediately, they hopped out and crossed the road. They criss-crossed the road a few times before finally disappearing into the bush. A great encounter with photo ops.

    We had set out from the house this morning under overcast skies. Even had a couple of showers on our way to FCNP. Thus, resigned to another grey day, we were pleased to note the sun was periodically breaking out of the clouds as we drove further into the park.

    Our first stop was the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse … just a brief photo op. From the signage, we learned that the cape is “… a dynamic border between land and sea, constantly being shaped by the waves and wind, and dominated by the cycles of the tide.” The sea in question here is the Southern Ocean … that often-turbulent body of water that separates Antarctica from the rest of the land masses in the southern hemisphere.

    From the lighthouse, we continued down to the end of the road to stroll the boardwalk to Admiral’s Arch. The clerk at the VC had already told us that due to the construction of a new viewing platform — we would not be able to see much of the arch itself. However, there were long-nosed fur seals on the rocks … 30-40 of them at any given time. Wildlife is always an incentive.

    The boardwalk zig-zagged down at a gentle incline, so it was a pleasant stroll … our only discomfort was from the chilly wind blowing strong. Luckily, we were bundled up. In any event, the scenery was spectacular, with the ferocious Southern Ocean crashing ashore … and even filling some rock formations with water that the seals seemed to be enjoying as they played about.

    After this stop, we got back in the car to drive to Weirs Cove, considered a heritage site as this is where supplies — anything and everything from food to fuel — were delivered every three months for the lighthouse keepers back in the day. Even building materials had to be transported here by steamship, then carried 300 feet up the cliff. The construction of a “flying fox” in 1907 made the job a little easier. At least the keepers could then winch up the supplies instead of carrying them up themselves. It wasn’t until the 1940s that the first truck-delivery was made.

    It was interesting to see the ruins of the flying-fox and the store house. But what was a highlight for us here was the views. Especially since the sun brightened things for a bit … and we even had some blue patches in the sky.
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  • Jour 119

    KI: Kokumi Kangaroo

    8 avril, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We have a kangaroo visiting us at Kokumi, the house we rented through AirBNB.

    He usually shows up when we are having breakfast and doesn't come very close ... browsing instead at the far edge of the open field where the grass is taller. Yesterday, he disappeared as soon as we stepped onto the balcony. Today, he was more tolerant of our presence.En savoir plus

  • Jour 118

    KI: Kingscote … Lunch & Art Trail

    7 avril, Australie ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Kigscote is the largest town on Kangaroo Island — with a population of around 2,000 people. It also has the distinction of being the oldest European settlement in South Australia.

    On a cool Sunday afternoon, we found Kingscote all-but deserted. Most of the businesses were closed … and that included restaurants. Luckily, Mui’s research pointed us to Cactus, which was still serving when we arrived. A casual café atmosphere … patio seating protected from the elements … good food. We both ordered tacos and split an order of sweet potato fries.

    For dessert, we went in search of ice cream and found a shop that had what we were looking for. Yummy!

    Our meandering stroll through town then took us on parts of the Art Trail … which included colorful murals … many of them featuring kangaroos.
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  • Jour 118

    KI: Ambling Drive & ‘Roo Mobs

    7 avril, Australie ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    When we left Penneshaw, we had no real plan for our drive except that at some point we would stop in Kingscote for lunch.

    Getting on Hog Bay Road, one of the very few sealed roads on the island, we began our drive … stopping whenever something caught our eye … including a photo op at Gallipoli Hill and a wander at scenic Pennington Bay … one of the highlights of today.

    Leaving the sealed road behind, we then headed up to the Red Banks. This was to be our test drive on an unsealed road as Budget had told Mui not to attempt any roads that might require 4WD. Forget four wheeling, we found the unsealed road to be smoother than some of our paved highways in the USA.

    There was no description of the Red Banks. But Mui and I agreed that the name probably referred red cliffs. Turns out that we were right. The only problem? To see the cliffs, one must walk out onto a very narrow lookout that has become heavily eroded. We were very careful — Mui had a tight grip on the waist of my jeans — and got some decent views and photos. However, I don’t think that will be possible for much longer. A few more major storms will probably cause the eroded spit to crumble.

    Rather than retrace our route back to Hog Bay Road, we next opted to follow a few more unsealed roads to Kingscote. And then onto Stokes Bay where we had been told that we could see kangaroos in the wild.

    Indeed, we saw plenty of ‘roos. Because they were browsing on private lands that were fenced, we could not get very close. Nonetheless it was fun to watch them. In fact, we spent so much time with them that it was too late to hike over the rocks to see if the much-vaunted Stokes Bay Beach deserved its reputation.

    By the time we headed home it was apparent that it would be dark by the time we got to Cape Willoughby. Maybe we can fit it in tomorrow.
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  • Jour 118

    KI: Art Around Penneshaw

    7 avril, Australie ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After a good night’s rest — and some dallying at Kokumi (the name by which our AirBNB is known) — we set off to do some sightseeing.

    The sky was overcast; the temp was chilly; there was rain in the forecast. Today seemed like a good day to head west and north … and wrap up in the southeast corner of Kangaroo Island (KI) where we were told we could find a mob of kangaroos near the lighthouse.

    But first we drove into Penneshaw to get some info from the visitor center. Closed until 10:00a unfortunately. We would have to make do with the island map I had picked up on the ferry.

    Our stop at the VC did bear fruit in the form of a tile mosaic on the ground … Community Art as History Project … from 1997. Metal sculptures as we drove out of town were a bonus.
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  • Jour 117

    Ferry … Cape Jervis to KI

    6 avril, Australie ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The Ghan pulled into the Adelaide Parklands Terminal slightly ahead of its 10:00a scheduled arrival. Our train journey now over, we bid newly-made friends adieu, detrained, picked up our checked bags, and hopped in an Uber to the Avis rental office a few miles away.

    We were way ahead of schedule when we began the drive to Cape Jervis, the departure point for the SeaLink ferry that connects Kangaroo Island [KI] with mainland Australia. Arriving at 2:30p, we tried to stand by for the 3:00p ferry … but no luck. At least I had already gone online to switch our 6:00p reservation to 4:00p, so the wait for the next ferry wasn’t too bad.

    The 45-minute ride across the Backstairs Passage was uneventful. Before we knew it, the ferry was unloading at the terminal in Penneshaw … on KI’s Dudley Peninsula. We headed straight to our AirBNB accommodations, a lovely little house just 5 minutes out of town … with a view of Kingscote Harbour.

    While I settled in, Mui drove back into town for snacks and a bottle of wine. Munchies on the veranda before the temp dipped further was the plan. Chores could wait until later.
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