It Begins

July - October 2022
A 98-day adventure by Vicki Read more
  • 69footprints
  • 2countries
  • 98days
  • 863photos
  • 23videos
  • 6.1kkilometers
  • Day 21

    Whistlers Mtn Jasper

    August 15, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Mon 15th Aug. Today it was a climb up Whistlers Mtn. Most people take the skytram (gondola) up, but when you are on a budget, $57.30 each can't be justified so hiking it is, and since we were staying at the campground decided to walk from there (an extra 3 or so kms). It was a good climb up, and once you get to the skytram terminal, you join all those who took the easy way up, to walk the final 1.1 km, 150 m elevation gain to get to the summit, which offers 360° views of the Athabasca Valley and surrounding peaks. Reading the information panels at the top we found out what we were calling chipmunks are actually red ground squirrels, and the other rodent creatures we see are pikas. On the way down, we spotted another marmot, we also read up top that they eat for 4 months over summer and sleep for 8 months - what a life. Stats for hike are: 21.07 km, active time 5hr35, elevation gain 1420 m. With the money we saved we decided to treat ourselves to pizza in town for dinner, since we had to go in and fill up the van with petrol for starting the drive south down the Icefield parkway tomorrow- apparently one of the most scenic drives in the world. The petrol in Jasper is about 50 cents per litre cheaper than the last petrol station we filled up at - must be the difference between B.C. and Alberta, because I wouldn't have thought Jasper would be cheap otherwise.Read more

  • Day 22

    Icefields Parkway

    August 16, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Tue 16th Aug. Well the drive down from Jasper to the Icefield Centre lived up to its reputation, therefore lots of scenery shots in the photos. Started with a pleasant 4.6 km loop track around the "Valley of the Five Lakes" - the clearness and turquoise colour in these lakes was amazing. Next stop down the highway was Athabasca Falls, another powerful falls. What was interesting with these falls was some time ago they changed channels, so you get to walk where they use to flow. Stopped at Goats and Glaciers lookout but could not see any goats. Next was Sunwapta Falls, there was the top Falls then walked 1.4km down to 3 lower Falls. I'm actually getting a bit over waterfalls at the moment, been so many over the last week. There was one more further down the road - Tangle Falls which was a nice gentle one. And now it is the Glaciers time. First was Stutfield Glacier, and across the road from the Icefield Centre where we are staying the night is the Athabasca Glacier, which we will walk to the toe of tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 23

    Glaciers on the Icefields Parkway

    August 17, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Wed 17th Aug. Well we finally got to use our duvet that we brought in Kamloops last night, temperature got down to 5°C, however the day has just been stunning. Firstly we hiked across the road to do the Forefield Trail which lead onto the "Toe of the Athabasca Glacier". It certainly sad to see how much these great rivers of ice are retreating. There were bus loads of people going onto the Glacier to do ice walks, we will hopefully do this in Alaska. Doug then enjoyed his first coffee since leaving NZ, at the highest Starbucks in Canada, at the Icefield centre which is at about 2000 m altitude. We then drove a couple of kms down the road for our second hike, The Wilcox Pass. This took us up and back towards the Icefield Centre, so we were looking towards the Athabasca Glacier again. A good trail. Stats are: 9.36 km, 2 hrs 8 minutes active, and 476 m elevation gain. After a sandwich for lunch it was onto the next hike, 6 km down the road. The Parker Ridge trail, this was a steep track with switchbacks to the top, which then flatten off and could walk along for views of the Saskatchewan Glacier. Hike stats are: 6.69 km, 1hr31 active, 341 m elevation gain. It was then carry on south down the Icefield Parkway admiring the mountain views a long the way. Stopped at what we thought was the Bridal Veil Falls, there was a rocky track about 300m along a river to where we thought the falls were, on the way there a couple walking back told us you couldn't get to the falls unless you clambered up and around a rock face. Anyway we got talking to this couple from San Diego, the gentleman initially said he was 31 - on questioning his age he revealed it was 92, (his partner looked about 25 yrs younger) and he is still getting out and about in the outdoors. We decided to do this trip now while our bodies were still able - maybe we still have 30+ years of adventure left in us - let's hope. Anyway we didn't see the falls and carried on to our campsite for the night at Waterfowl Lake. This is a first come campground and we thought we were out of luck but managed to find probably the second to last site. The lake as we drove passed it on the road looked so inviting and even at 6.30pm it was very warm and sunny, so it was togs on and down for a quick dip because the water was not so warm. On the way back to the van we were stopped by a Belgium guy at one of the campsite asking if we would verify he was at this campsite as he was going for a Guiness World record for the fast time to handpedal bike from Anchorage to Mexico. That's what is so neat about traveling you meet some amazing people. Anyway Doug suggested we start recording our daily steps, so today's is 36189 / 37814 (Doug's/Vicki's)Read more

  • Day 24

    Last 60 kms of the Icefield Parkway

    August 18, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Thursday 18th Aug. Well today was about the Lakes. First stop was Peyto Lake, it was beautiful, but too crowded with people jostling for the best selfie position, so a quick photo and then continue on the trail up to Bow Summit, it was a fairly steady climb up but nothing really wow at the top, so headed down. Stats are: 5.51 km, active 1:15, elevation gain 295 m. Next was Bow Lake, and this was a double wow for me. The lake was gorgeous, the colour, the stillness - got some great reflection photos. We did the hike to Bow Glacier Falls and this was right up there as my favorite hike so far - maybe because it was mostly flat, but the first part was walking along the lake it was just so calm and serene. Then a bit of a uphill over and past a small canyon, then following the river up to the base of the waterfall. From the lake you could see the Glacier above the falls, but as you got closer it went out of view. On the way back, we could not resist diving into the clear bright blue water of the lake, it was very brief, as this is fed straight from the Glacier so as you can imagine a bit numbing even in 30°C heat. Stats are: 8.27 km, 2:08, elevation gain 246 m. It was then the last 37 kms on the Icefield Parkway to Lake Louise where we got one night at the campground. We got the bikes off for a short 2 km ride into the village. Firstly, information centre for hiking maps and wifi and then a few grocery restocking. So a fairly easy day today. Steps are 25323 / 26260Read more

  • Day 25

    Lake Louise

    August 19, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Fri 19th Aug. I do not recommend the Lake Louise campground, the train track runs right alongside it, and there is a couple of road crossings so they give nice long blows on the horn. After the 11pm train I gave up and got my earplugs in. Then it was an early start, first time using the alarm, got up at 5.50am so we could get a park at Lake Louise, These fill up really fast, then they close the road - when we drove past about 6.10 the Moraine Lake road was already closed. But it was nice to see the sun rise on Lake Louise, and again some great reflection photos. We then headed of for the Plain of Six Glaciers hike, this started along side the lake then headed up the valley where you're surround by peaks and Glaciers, and a Swiss build tea house (build in 1920). When returning back along the same path we heard two avalanches. We then took a turning to head to "Big Beehive" which gave a nice view over Lake Louise. While there we discovered "The Devil's Thumb", a large rock plinth towering above the summit of the beehive, and could just make out people on top. We talked to some people about going up, some had tried but turned around with the narrow steep track, we ummed and ahhed but always up for a challenge thought we would check it out. It wasn't too bad, a bit of scrambling up a very steep dusty section was the worst, but had a track for most of it, and the views were worth it. After getting down it was onwards to Lake Agnes. It was interesting how the two lakes were such different colors. Louise was a cloudy pale blue, whereas Agnes was clearer and a darker turquoise - both very pretty Lakes. Then it was downhill, back to the start by the Château Louise, a very large grand hotel on the lake front. As we were passing, a wedding was about to begin, so along with hundreds of other tourists we watched over the fence for the bride to arrive - very beautiful, although I wouldn't had liked to been the men sweltering in their suits. Stats for hike: 19.21 km, 5:27, elevation gain 1053 m. We then headed back to village to the shop to get a few supplies because decided it made more sense to go to Yoho N.P before Banff. The first two campgrounds in the park were full, and on the map there was another one up the valley by Takakkaw Falls, which was also where the hike we wanted to do started from, so we carried on hoping they had a site, however when we got there found out it was only for tents, so we are taking a risk and staying in the carpark for the night. After dinner we went for a small walk to check out the 254 m Takakkaw Falls. Steps Dougs 39850.Read more

  • Day 26

    Yoho National Park

    August 20, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Sat 20th Aug. We survive the night without any taps on the door to move us on so that was good. We got away at 8 am on our Iceline trek via Little Yoho (8 am Alberta time - Yoho is actually in BC but since we are heading back to Alberta thought it would be easier just to keep to Alberta time - BC is an hour earlier). I had read the Iceline trek was one of the best day hikes in the rockies and it didn't disappoint. The description in the guide said "Spectacular signature hike: Glaciers, rock staircases and Alpine Meadows" and it certainly was all that and more. It started with a nice flat trail following the Yoho River, a couple of short side excursions took you to Point Lace waterfall and Duchovny Lake which was showing the effects of a dry summer. On the way we saw a small cat size animal in the trees, Doug managed to get a quick snap of it but it wasn't very clear, however a bit later in our walk we came across 2 Park rangers and asked them so we now know it is a Pine Martin (unsure of spelling but it is in the weasel family). We then got to the Laughing Falls, and after that the track started going up, It wasn't to bad of a climb, actually that's what we both liked about this hike, the climbs weren't to long or steep and then there was a lot of flat and underlating terrain. It was also very popular with trail runners and there were lots out running it today, however going in the opposite direction to us. Anyway it was nice walking through forested valley, about 10 kms in we came to an alpine hut, had a peep inside and ended up having a nice long conversation with a retired scientist who loved NZ and had done several trips to Antarctica. Not long after leaving the hut the landscape really changed and became really barren and rocky, yet you were walking alongside glaciers, lakes and waterfalls - really did feel like on another planet, I feel the photos didn't really capture how immense it felt. Then we started heading down. Took another track that went to Yoho lake, a pretty little lake, where we met a nice young couple, a doctor and teacher, who are spending around 6 months in Australia and 6 months back home in Canada, but also have spent a lot of time in the Yukon so was telling us about places to go there. Then it was the final 3 or 4 kms downhill to the van, during which we even had to pull out the raincoats for the first time, as a shower went through for about 10 minutes. There was rain overnight, and the morning was quite cloudy, the sun came out hot in the afternoon before clouding over again, but on a whole the day was a lot cooler than it has been, probably in early 20s. An excellent day, and we are risking another night staying in the carpark. Hike stats are: 26,24 km, 6:44 active time, elevation gain 974 m. Steps 41465 / 42218Read more

  • Day 27

    Yoho to Banff

    August 21, 2022 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Sun 21st Aug. Doug is broken, his lower back has finally said enough. And we have ran out of water in the van, so time to move on. Doug dosed up on volterin and we headed down the Yoho valley road to the bottom, where we did a short walk (or more little a hobble for Doug) called a "Walk in the Past" which led to an abandoned steam locomotive. Driving up the Kicking Horse Pass we stopped and read and saw the spiral tunnels they built back in 1907 to make it easier for the trains to navigate the "Big Hill". While we were there a train heading down came pass the viewpoint went into the tunnel (of the lower spiral) came out and down underneath the tunnel, and the train was so long you could see it on three different parts of the track (trees blocked most of the view so I don't think the photos will show much) - very interesting though. Carry on to Banff, stopped at the information centre by the train station to get campground information, decided probably best to try out Canmore way as there were a few first come campgrounds. The first one was all full, so carried on about 10 minutes past Canmore to the Three Sisters campground and found a site, however at $31 for no facilities apart from toilets we thought quite expensive but decided to stay and have a restful afternoon. The weather hasn't been the best with rain and thunderstorms so a good chance to catch up on my Find Penguins posts. We also enjoyed a shared can of "D'ont Poke the Bear" berry cider to celebrate 3 weeks of Canada (first lot of alcohol).Read more

  • Day 28

    Canmore

    August 22, 2022 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Mon 22nd Aug. Doug is still broken, but moving a bit better with the volterins in his system, but we still had another easy day. Drove into Canmore in the morning and got a site at Wapiti campground which is at the start of the town. The information centre was also right next door, so went over and booked the next three nights in a Banff campground - organized! The local Ammonite Factory gives free interpretive tours at midday so we rushed to get to that. It was really fascinating learning about the origins of this gemstone, there is an UTube clip called Alberta Fossil Family if anyone is interested. And I may have succumb to purchasing a small momento of this national gem of Canada After that it was a large grocery restocking at Safeways, with even a few treats thrown in. By this stage Doug was suffering so back to campground for a late lunch, laundry and for Doug to have a rest. I took the opportunity to do some exploring on the bike. Not long after I left, thunder started, and a few drops of rain, I decided to risk it and carry-on, hoping Doug would wake up and get the washing in if it did start to rain. I did about 2.5 hrs of biking around the trails of Canmore all the while had thunder rumbling but the rain only really started about 15 min from getting back. Met a lady who was saying at the Nordic Centre here, they store snow under sawdust for the whole of summer, so come Nov 1st the cross country skiing always opens, which seems quite amazing the snow lasts - I tried to find the sawdust heap but didn't and it was then it started to rain so thought I better get back. Step count D 5868, V 13234.Read more

  • Day 29

    Banff

    August 23, 2022 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Tue 23rd Aug. Another day exploring by myself, while Doug takes it easy with his bad back. Walked into Canmore town centre from the campground, while Doug was using the WiFi at the information centre next door. Was planning on going to the museum and geo-science centre however when I got there found out its only open Thursday to Monday, bugger - they could put that in their ad. Oh well back to meet Doug, then drive through to Banff where we are staying for the next 3 nights. We parked near the town centre, and had some lunch, and then I got out to start exploring Banff. After a walk around the main street, I headed up Tunnel Mountain, a 2km, 200m climb up to the summit for views across the town, Bow Valley and Mount Rundle. After that walked out to the Cave and Basin National Historic site, however had only 20 mins before it closed, and had to pay a $8 entry so decided to leave that for another day - did have a walk around the boardwalk, which went to the upper spring. On the way back into town had a wander around the Cascades of Time gardens. Luckily took the bus out to the campground at Two Jack Lake because it was about a 15 minute drive out of Banff, would had been a long walk, as it was, getting off the bus at the campground entrance too our site must have been about 1.5 kms, I think I will be getting the bike into action tomorrow. Doug didn't spend the afternoon resting but biked to Johnson Lake, about 5 kms from campground and walked the 2.8 km loop around the lake, hopefully on the mend. Steps: Vicki 33728.Read more

  • Day 30

    Banff Day 2

    August 24, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Wed 24th Aug. Back out exploring together today. Headed off on our bikes into Banff, about 12.5 kms. We were heading to do the 4.8 km trail - Surprise Corner to Hoodoos, but on the way found the farmers market was on so had a look at that, and splashed out on some really cool leggings (my thighs must be getting thinner, I don't normally like tights on me) and a beanie. Anyway eventually carried on our bike quest, got to Surprise Corner which has a nice view of the large Banff Springs Hotel across the river, and got onto the trail. It wasn't the easiest trail, and at times had to push the bikes but made it to the Voodoos, not that there were many to see. Then carry on single track around the Tunnel Bench loop, this was quite good riding, however at times did get quite close to the edge. When the track crossed over the Tunnel Mountain road we took that down so we could head back out to our campsite. We stopped and had a look at Cascade Ponds on the way, and then found an "easy" 4.3 km track from the ponds to Johnson Lake so thought that might be a good option rather than the road. Easy tracks are defined as suitable for all cyclists, including those with little or no experience, flat to gentle rolling with no obstacles, little or no elevation gain. And as you may guess it was not any of these things - initially a steep push up a hill, then a very rooty rocky knarly track, at the Johnson Lake end it did improve. Anyway we eventually got back to the van for a late lunch, then it started to rain so we decided not to go out again, even though the rain didn't last long, but started planning what to do the next couple of days. However that might all change now because as Doug was sitting here, biting his fingernails, an "oh shit", and a rush to the mirror showed the reason - his top front tooth crown had come away so tomorrow will now be spent trying to get a dentist appointment somewhere. Until then it will be closed mouth smiles for photos. Steps Vicki's 14198Read more