A 10-day adventure by Robert Read more
  • 14footprints
  • 9countries
  • 10days
  • 108photos
  • 3videos
  • 8.5kkilometers
  • 3.8kkilometers
  • Day 8

    Kosovo

    August 9, 2022 in Kosovo ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Pristina, Kosovo

    My journey from North Macedonia to Kosovo was on a hot, busy minibus with a group consisting largely of Kosovan workers. I was seated across from two burly construction workers who insisted on striking up a conversation, albeit in German - the only common language we could just about all understand (although my Higher German seemed a long way off!). The main guy was clearly in celebratory mood, and insisted on me joining him in a glass of ‘schnapps’. Me politely declining his offer was pointless, and soon I was joining half the passengers in a generous serving of the powerful rekija (the effects of which from my lunchtime imbibing were only just wearing off!). I thought the two quiet young guys in front were from the USA, but they too were Kosovan, but possessing the usual perfect American accent common in young folk from these parts, brought up with social media. They too joined the party, asking me the familiar questions: ‘Glasgow Rangers or Celtic?‘ My interest in lacrosse seemed to fail to impress them, but they were very helping in providing advice about their small country. ‘But why are you visiting Kosovo?’ they enquired. I wondered that too, as the first image I saw after crossing through Border Control was a car engulfed in fire at the side of the road. On arrival at Pristina Bus Station, my construction friends tried to persuade me to join them for a ‘bier’ but, fearing the worst, I politely declined and headed for my hotel - the 4Llulla in the city centre.

    Kosovo only gained its independence in 2008 and, although it has been recognised by many countries, there are still many which don’t, including Serbia. Indeed I was told by several fellow travellers that you would be refused entry to Serbia if you tried to enter from Kosovo, (which they believe is still part of their country), so I am relieved I didn’t do it that way around. I also heard that there had been some recent trouble in Kosovo, but after checking the relevant travel advice, this seems to have been restricted to the north of the country, and the remainder generally was considered safe for travel.

    As Europe’s newest capital city, Pristina underwhelms somewhat compared to other cities I have visited on this trip. There are no obvious major attractions, but it was interesting to walk around nonetheless. My small hotel was located next to the main Skanderberg Square. There was some of kind of international folk dancing competition outside the theatre as I arrived, and I thought the beautiful costumes would look great in a Runway pantomime. I had a lovely traditional dinner at the recommended Liburnia restaurant - roasted peppers in a cream sauce, followed by lamb and potatoes cooked the oven - tasty 😋. I topped up my alcohol level with a half litre of the local lager beer.

    This morning I did a walk around the city centre. Apart from the main pedestrianised street, it was very busy with traffic, fairly littered, lots of graffiti, grass verges, street furniture and steps poorly maintained, and grey, overcast weather - remind you of anywhere? Although Pristina was interesting to visit, it would not be on the top of my list to return to. They say that if you have limited time in Kosovo then Prizren with its attractive Old Town is the place to go. But I think I’ll have to leave that visit for another trip
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  • Day 10

    Tirana, Albania

    August 11, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Tirana, Albania

    For today’s trip I headed for my final Balkan country and capital city - Tirana in Albania. I was pleasantly surprised at the comfortable coach provided for this 4.5 hour journey - plenty of seats, good air conditioning and regular stops. I noticed on the way out we were travelling on George W Bush street (yesterday it was Bill Klinton - with a K - boulevard in Pristina. Again the scenery was lovely, if not quite as dramatic as other trips I have been on.

    I made my way to Tirana city centre - and another Skanderbeg Square, complete with statue on horseback of the great hero. This city seems much more lively and interesting than either Podgorica (Montenegro) or Pristina (Kosovo). It appears to have shaken off its former communist dreariness, and reinvented itself as a young, colourful, modern capital city, with a lively café culture and an exciting buzz. It looks like they have a good arts scene, and plenty of interesting museums, many dedicated to the darker side of its communist past. I only had time to visit one, and chose Bunk Art 2 - a top secret ex nuclear bunker built in the 1980s to shelter elite police and ministry staff in the event of a nuclear attack. It shows how Communist-era police persecuted the regime’s opponents. Some of the displays were quite distressing, and certain rooms were marked as unsuitable for children, but an interesting and thought provoking experience. Frightening however that so much of this happened in the relatively recent past.

    I had my evening meal in another recommended restaurant. The (unsmiling) waitress told me they had no menu, but that I would be served a traditional Albanian dinner. I am not sure what it all was, but it included a number of dishes comprising of a variety of elements - local cheeses, home made bread, pomegranate, stuffed pastries and slow cooked lamb on the bone - all very tasty but too much to finish.

    I took a taxi to the Veraci hotel next to the airport as I had an early start the next morning. Alarm set for 3.45am - wish me luck!
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  • Day 10

    Tirana - Milan - London - Glasgow

    August 11, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Not the most direct way home, but by far the cheapest. Left Tirana at 6.25am for 1.5 hour WizzAir flight to Milan (Bergamo). Leaving here at 10.45 on EasyJet flight for London (Gatwick), before hopefully catching the 13,50 EasyJet to Glasgow arriving at 15.25 - that’s the plan. First time flying with WizzAir and very impressed, as I was with Air Serbia.Read more

  • Day 10

    Home Sweet Home

    August 11, 2022 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I have loved my 10 days on this whistle-stop tour of the Balkans area. In some ways it was a lot to pack into one trip, and there were times when I wished I could stop and stay a bit longer in one place. However, the plan was to do a quick ‘recce’, with a view to deciding which places I would like to return to. I have enjoyed a fabulous experience of visiting areas with a dark and troubled past, and seeing how they have emerged from oppressive Communist regimes to more open, welcoming places.

    If you are thinking of travelling to this fascinating and beautiful area, I would certainly encourage you to do so, I have listed a few things which hopefully might be of assistance to you in planning your trip:

    In spite of preconceived notions, I found the Balkans area to be very safe and open to visitors. Although travelling alone, I never felt threatened or intimidated - indeed I felt completely safe throughout. I found it useful to have a detailed plan worked out, to include transport, accommodation details etc, and was pleased when this all actually worked out in practice. With hindsight, I might not have chosen to travel in August as it was very hot, and the main tourist areas were very busy.

    Bus and train stations are rarely in the city centre - they are often quite a distance out and will require a local bus / taxi to get to the centre. It is handy to have small amounts of the local currency for transport / toilets etc. Some places will accept Euros but many won’t. Most of the countries I visited had their own currency which was frustrating having to change money regularly. It’s good to take a pre paid debit card to avoid foreign currency transaction fees. When withdrawing cash however, most ATMs make a service charge. I understand some banks don’t, but I’ve yet to find one.

    Locals were generally friendly and helpful - if generally quite dour looking. Fellow travellers were eager to chat and share knowledge and information about the best places to go. One Swedish guy let me access his personal hotspot so I could access the internet to download a bus ticket. Others looked out for fellow passengers who were late back on a bus after a break, and who otherwise could have been left behind.

    I found that prices were generally cheaper, often considerably, than other more popular countries / resorts.

    All hotels will let you leave luggage free of charge if you are not travelling until later in the day. Most bus / train stations have left luggage places available for a small fee. Otherwise there are left luggage facilities in most city centres and tourist resorts.

    A good guide book is essential - I found Lonely Planet’s Western Balkans book to be invaluable, and it came with an electronic version which I could access via my phone / iPad.

    Most of the countries I visited were not in the EU and so I was unable to use my mobile as I would at home. I did access an amount of calls/ data for a fixed daily fee, but this didn’t last long, and I tried to use Wi-Fi wherever possible. All hotels and most restaurants and cafés have free Wi-Fi, so it was worth buying a coffee for unlimited free access to the internet.

    Toilet facilities on trains and in bus stations left a lot to be desired. Best to bring your own supply of tissues / wipes / hand gel. Even in some good restaurants and certain airports the standard of facilities was lower than we might be used to.
    It pays to be patient - buses and trains rarely run on time, and service in restaurants can be slow, but there’s no point in getting annoyed or frustrated. Just chill and enjoy the actual experience of travel - I’m still buzzing!
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