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Africa 2023
  • Karen Hechinger

Africa 2023

A 76-day adventure by Karen Read more
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  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    We left at 4P, and saw this huge kudu before it got darkHelmet head guinea fowl - beautiful intricacies in its feathersThe African wild dog, native to sub-Saharan Africa, is also known as the painted dogThey are pack animals who hunt ungulates (large animals with hooves)1Taking a dump...thanks for the showThe lioness tending to her cubs1The baby cub walked right up to the vehicle and just looked at usBaby hippos weigh 30-50 lbs. Adults weight around 2200-9900 lbs1Can you see the chameleon?1We finally see the leopard!We watched him pounce upon a group of 4 impala grazing in a field......but they had been watching him & scattered too quickly

    27. Zambia - South Luangwa Nat'l Park

    June 4, 2023 in Zambia ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    South Luangwa National Park in eastern Zambia covers more than 9K sq km, and because of the water source provided by the Luangwa River and its many lagoons, has one of the most intense concentrations of wildlife in Africa.

    We engaged in a evening game drive while there. I was wondering how this would work, thinking that the animals would bolt if a flashlight was beamed down upon them, but that's not the case. They look up, but seem somewhat unaffected otherwise.

    Here we spotted the coveted leopard, and watched a narrow miss as it stalked some impala. We also went up close and personal with a lioness and her cubs. Super cute.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    1After 14 hours of travel, we're so happy to be here
    1The campsite is 50 yards from the beachLake Malawi doubles as a bathtub for the locals.Village Tour - this is where they raise the pigsThe overnight chicken coop was raised off the ground after losing chickens to the hyenasThe community ovensCassava is dried then ground up to produce a flour that is a staple for the people hereChildren followed us everywhere1They LOVE getting their pictures taken, and seeing the photos, especially if you zoom inWe left our laundry to be done at the campsite, and found it on our village tour! Haha!1The women are so adept at carrying things on their heads3Not my best skill...This is the Village Chief's houseThe local clinicThe primary schoolThe subjects they teach. #3 Chichewa is the local languageThe children were so happy to see usThey swarmed us as we left

    28. Malawi: Kande Beach - Village Walk

    June 6, 2023 in Malawi ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    We had a grueling 14 hour day in the truck yesterday, encountering bone-jarring brain-rattling roads that occasionally tossed us out of our seats. The border crossing to Malawi took an hour, but was a welcome respite to stretch our legs. Having departed our previous campsite at 4:30A, we arrived at Kande Beach on Lake Malawi at 6:40P, in the dark. Tough travel day for sure.

    The next day we opted into a guided village walk. We had passed by many such communities on the road, and had been wondering what village life was like.

    We also got exposed to how economically important tourism is to the communities here, and how they have managed to maximize monetization of this. We visited a school (which solicited and received a donation), and a clinic (which solicited and received a donation). As we set off on our tour, our tour guide brought along 3 friends to walk with each of the 3 of us on the tour as we headed to the village. The guide got a tip. Each of the friends expected a tip. Upon arriving back, just outside of our camp, the 3 friends steered us towards their friends, each of whom had various trinkets to sell to us. Although initially a bit offended by the manipulation, every dollar spent means so much more to them than it does to us, and goes a long way towards improving the lives of the villagers.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Chitimba Beach on the northern part of Lake Malawi
    Hiking towards LivingstoniaWe stopped near the top to dip our feet in the water. Running water is a rare treasure around hereHello there!1Manchewe Falls, Livingstonia, MalawiIt was too crowded with both of us on the bike, so we changed to separate bikes

    29. Malawi: Chitimba Beach

    June 8, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We travelled north towards Tanzania, stopping at another Malawi beach-based campsite in Chitimba. Our room had no power or water, and the campsite had no wifi. There was nothing happening at the beach other than locals trying to sell their wares (which the guides recommended we avoid), so we kept busy with a 3.5 hour hike up the local mountain to see the falls, followed by a motorcycle ride up to the David Livingstone Museum at the top of the mountain, then back down to our campsite.

    The hike, which was more for the exercise than anything else, felt good, but the motorcycle ride was pure torture. The road back to town was really no road at all. We spent the better part of an hour poised uncomfortably behind our drivers, clutching a bar behind us for balance, and holding on for dear life as our drivers navigated the path of rocks, sand, pothole-laden dirt. The bone-jarring roads we had previously experienced in the truck were nothing compared to the beating our bodies took on this ride. When we finally got back, I couldn't uncurl my hand from the death-grip I'd been keeping on the bike. I stumbled to the room, and grabbed 3 advil and an hour's nap to try to recover.

    Welcome to Africa Karen!    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Nicer communities in Tanzania
    Lots of farming in the highlandsElectricity! Yay!1There are a lot of wood carvers here. Check out the beautiful carvings of this structureBaobabs!1...known for their huge trunksUnfortunately disposal of single use plastics is a big issue everywhere hereAnd the public toilets are often nothing more than a hole in the floorBut, then there are the sunsets

    30. Tanzania - Arrival

    June 9, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Another 4:30 AM departure brought us to the Malawi / Tanzania border by 7, where we lost 2 hours due to a "systems down" situation that had the immigration officials processing visas on paper. (Craig, ever the prepared boy scout, made sure we had obtained our visas in advance, but we had to wait for others).

    Heading into the highlands after that, we noticed an immediate improvement in the standard of living. Honestly, Malawi was a bit of a bust for us. Here in Tanzania, homes were larger, looked maintained, and we could see power lines connected to some of them. Some had glass windows. The area was lush with vegetation and agriculture, including bananas, tea, coffee, & pineapple.

    Along the way, we encountered a grouping of baobab trees. The baobab is one of the most iconic and majestic trees in Africa, growing to up to 30 meters tall with a trunk diameter of over 10 meters. It can live literally for thousands of years. We stopped to take a few pix.

    As we continued heading across Tanzania towards Dar es Salaam & the eastern coastline, traffic became increasingly congested. Dar houses a major cargo port which is accompanied by an influx of trucks. So many trucks!    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Our spice tour
    Zanzibar grows a cotton-like crop used to stuff pillowsThis guy was going to get us some coconutsCoconut juice - yummyThe north beaches of ZanzibarSome tourists opt for the ocean horseback rideEveryone plays soccer on the beachMy pedicure was conducted on the doorstep of a hotel roomIts all about the sunsets here1

    31. Tanzania: Zanzibar

    June 14, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Zanzibar is an archipelago in the Indian Ocean, just off the coast of the Tanzania. It consists of many small islands and two large ones. Unguja is the main island, which is usually what people (tourists) are referring to when they say Zanzibar.

    We arrived at the busy ferry port in Stone Town, and went on a spice tour before heading north to the beach for a few days. Known as "the spice island", Zanzibar produces cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, lemon grass, turmeric, vanilla and black pepper, among other things.

    The population here is mostly Muslim, though our guide told us it was only in Stone Town that women were expected to cover their legs. No scarf or head covering required.

    I was a little burned out by the "tour schedule", and opted to participate in no other optional activities (for which I would have to be at a certain place at a certain time) for 3 days. Blissful freedom! I spent time wandering the town, grabbing some sun on the beach, kayaking, and otherwise enjoying the last bit of the a/c that we're likely to experience for a while.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Nomadic Maasai village
    MaasaiMaasai hut made with dirt and cow dung1The children are very attentive and energetic!1Getting ready for my camel rideA pretty tame ride, but hold on tight getting up and downLife of the party

    32. Tanzania: Arusha & Maasai People

    June 18, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    On our way inland towards Serengeti, we passed through the bustling town of Arusha, which is in close proximity to Mt. Kilimanjaro, and home to 2.3 million people. We toured a Maasai village, and I took my first camel ride.

    Maasai people are nomadic pastoralists, and male and female roles are well defined. The men protect the women and the cattle & goat herds, the women do everything else. They build and take down the home when they move, they have and raise the babies and handle the food, water, washing - pretty much everything.

    A Maasai man's wealth is judged by the size of his family and his cows. Women fetch 10 cows each when they get married, so men want daughters. Of course, this is not so hard when you have many wives.

    Think you'd rather be male than female? Boys are circumsized at age 14. No anesthesia. They have recently stopped circumsizing the girls.

    We stayed at a place called Meserani Snake Park - they had crocodiles there - i added a rew pix.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Our game drive vehicle - no open air vehicle here - not safeBig 5 - #1 LionBig 5 - #2 Cape BuffaloHuge herd of cape buffalo - some were staring us down menacinglyHorns on the cape buffalo differ by gender - this is the male......and this is the femaleBig 5 - #3 HippoBig 5 - #4 ElephantSee the baby?Big 5 - #5 Leopard (they are nocturnal, sleeping during the day)

    33. Tanzania: Serengeti & the Big 5

    June 19, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Located in northern Tanzania, Serengeti National Park covers almost 15k sq km, with 3.7 million acres of unspoiled savannah. The name Serengeti comes from the Maasai, and translates to "place where the land runs on forever". Thats no joke. There are times when your 360 degree view is grassland all the way to the horizon in all directions.

    The park boasts over 70 large mammal species, including the "Big 5" (lion, elephant, cape buffalo, rhino, and leopard) as well as zebra, giraffe, hippo, wildebeest, warthogs, and the many antelope groups such as impala, gazelle, and eland.

    Our game drive was awesome. Here are some shots of the big 5.

    Note: our best leopard sighting was at South Luangwa Park in Zambia, but that was because the leopard is a nocturnal animal and we did an evening game drive there. We were lucky to spot one sleeping in a tree during our daytime game drive here.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    We were SO close
    1Napping is an art form!We love the cubbies!The result of a successful lion hunt.

    34. Tanzania: Serengeti 2 - Lions

    June 19, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Serengeti is well known for its annual wildebeest migration, when roughly 2 million wildebeest, accompanied by zebra and gazelle, trek 800 km from Serengeti towards Masai Mara Kenya in search of more fertile feeding grounds. We were disappointed not to be here a little earlier in the year to view this.

    That said, our game drive afforded us unbelievably close viewing of lions, which we'd been hard-pressed to find on previous game drives. Note: some pg-13 videos attached.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Descending into Ngorongoro Crater
    1The Crater floorMore of the Crater floorZebra & wildebeestWe saw these guys on the road as we left the park1

    35. Tanz: Serengeti + Ngorongoro Crater

    June 21, 2023 in Tanzania ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    At 5,900 feet above sea level, the Ngorongoro Crater stands 610 feet deep and boasts 100 square miles of wetlands, grasslands and forest. Its the world's largest intact, inactive volcanic caldera in the world, and one of the seven wonders of Africa.

    The crater is estimated to have formed 2 - 2.5 million years ago when the volcano's cone imploded after a massive eruption. Its mineral rich volcanic soil generates lush grass for grazing herbivores, which in turn attracts predators. N is known to have the highest population density of lions in Africa.

    We did a game drive thru the crater on our way back to Arusha after Serengeti.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Border crossing included drive from Arusha to Nairobi
    Our tent at Wildebeest CampThe mascots sitting on the front of our new tour truck

    37. Kenya: Border crossing +

    June 22, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Things often do not go as planned in Africa, and our border crossing to Kenya was a testament to that. We were delayed about 2 hours as one of our travelmates had an expired visa that required re-application. This was not as big a problem as the fact that the paperwork for our travel truck, which had been previously submitted, had not been processed. So while we (the people) could cross, our truck would need a few extra days. To add to all of this, our driver Harmony came down with malaria, and although he sought and received proper treatment at the hospital (after initially being misdiagnosed at a local clinic), he needed rest.

    So - 3 tourists and a guide with no truck or driver. As I've mentioned previously, our guide Crispen is a real pro. He is always prepared with plan B or plan C. Using his multiple personal & company based connections, he found us a ride to Nairobi (albeit in a vehicle that was too small for us), as well as a new driver and a new truck.

    Hakuna matata (no worries).

    We stayed 2 nights in glamping style pre-erected tents at Wildebeest Camp, and took off on schedule for Lake Nakuru.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    The baboons always entertainWarthogMuddy waterfall in Lake Nakuru ParkAcacias1Interesting tree roots growing down the side of the rocksLake Nakuru

    38. Kenya: Nairobi - Lake Nakuru

    June 24, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    We grabbed yet another game drive outside of Nairobi at Lake Nakuru, which is part of the Great Rift Valley. At this point in the trip, I'm afraid we've been a bit spoiled, having seen just about every animal that was on our list, up close & personal. I don't think our driver quite understood our ambivalence at seeing a lion 50 yards away, which paled in comparison to being 10 feet away in Serengeti.

    We did however see flocks of flamingo & pelicans, and got super close to a very large rhino. That was pretty cool.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    We crossed the equator before leaving Kenya
    The bustling market streets of Kampala - so much trafficA parade!Street marketsOur guide Crispen stopped the truck to grab some produce......and was instantly surrounded by local vendors. Shopping is not for the faint of heart here1I found a job for my sister hairdresser. There's the shampoo station behind the signOne of our new travelmates, trying to catch some zzzz'sThe quintessential African savannahAn elephant strolled through our camp this evening

    39. Into Uganda

    June 27, 2023 in Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    We crossed the border into Uganda, and creeped and crawled through the bustling streets of Kampala to our campsite near our Chimpanzee trek. We picked up 2 new tour members, a pair of chatty affable 30 something Brits, who are quite astounded and delighted by everything they see. We "tour veterans" smile indulgently - it wasn't long ago that we felt the same way.Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    A bit tough to see, but this is the gorge into which we would descend on our trek1Im trying out this head netting to avoid mosquito bites in the jungle. I look ridiculous!Our guide Charles carries a gun, which would only be used to scare a chimp away, not shoot itTrekking across a muddy river, in hot pursuit of the chimp noisesA friend lurks...The alpha-male of this chimp community1Breakfast leftovers, otherwise known as ammo coming down from the trees at usToucan in the forest

    40. Uganda: Chimpanzee Trek

    June 28, 2023 in Uganda ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    This morning it was off to Queen Elizabeth National Park for a trek through Kayambara Gorge to track down the chimpanzees. Although not everyone sees them, our guide was successful. It wasn't actually too hard once they started communicating with each other - they're pretty loud.

    We watched them shimmy up the tree for a breakfast of tree fruit, the hard shells of which they dropped on our heads from above after eating. Haha.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Sunrise as we left Songbird Camp and headed to Lake Buonyonyi
    We passed some well manicured tea fields on the wayLake BuonyonyiKayaking with my young British travelmatesOur cabin at Lake BuonyonyiOur view from the cabin.Our camp overlooked the lake. Bbq going in front of the truckPrepping for dinnerOur tour guide Crispy busts a move!A beautiful morning on our way to gorilla trekking

    42. Uganda - Lake Buonyonyi

    June 29, 2023 in Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The resort at Lake Buonyonyi was our home from which we did the gorilla trekking, and the furthest point west before we turn around and head back to Kenya.

    It was a beautiful place to spend a few days. I found time to kayak on the lake for a few hours.Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    1
    We were welcomed to the park by a group of local performersGetting our pre-trek debriefHiking towards the jungleThe Silverback is the Daddy of the groupOne of the group's adult females - there can be (and are) severalLooks like Rhodin's sculpture "The Thinker"!Not afraid of us at all - so coolThus the name Silverback

    43. Uganda: Gorilla Trek

    June 30, 2023 in Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    The largest group of endangered Mountain Gorillas roam the jungle of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda.

    We arrived at the park and were welcomed to the Gorilla trek by the local "gorilla cheerleading squad" prior to an introduction by a Ugandan wildlife official.

    We hiked about 2.5 miles before trackers alerted us to the presence of a nearby Gorilla troop. After descending a rather steep vine, root, and tree limb jungle for about 50 yards, we came within the mandated viewing range of "no closer than about 15 feet". The troop of about 20 members was led by a "Silverback" (mature male with greying back hair). Within our one hour viewing time limit, we observed the Silverback, mothers, and juveniles interact with one another. The 2-3 year olds were quite entertaining as they climbed on and wrestled around their 450 lb. Dad!

    Here are some interesting tid-bits about the Mountain Gorilla. Males can weigh nearly 500 lbs. and consume over 40 lbs of food per day. They scrupulously avoid bodies of water, really dislike rain, are afraid of chameleons and caterpillars, and have distinct "nose prints". Females generally enter into a long term relationship with the dominant Silverback of their troop and will fight to the death to protect their offspring from predators. The dominant Silverback is the troop leader and will protect the troop members at all cost. Mountain Gorillas are non-territorial. Though they have been classed as endangered, their numbers have been increasing through conservation efforts.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    "Kwibuka" stands for "to remember". 29 is # of years since the genocideRwandan youth clubs visiting the museumA memorial to 10 Belgians who died fighting the genocideDetails of the Belgian memorialThe capital of Rwanda - KigaliApproaching KigaliLots of activity on the streetsEveryone heads to the market on bicycles1

    45. Rwanda: Genocide Memorial +

    July 1, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We popped over the Ugandan border to Rwanda for the day, to visit the the Kigali Genocide Museum.

    The museum commemorates how, in 1994, the country was driven into a genocidal civil war by the Hutu dominated government against the more successful and prosperous Tutsi ethnic group. Nearly 1,000,000 Tutsis (of Rwanda's total population of about 8 million) lost their lives in brutal massacres not just by government troops, but by neighbor against neighbor and friend against friend. Men, women, and children were bludgeoned with clubs, hacked with machetes, and shot to death...no one was spared.

    The RPF, Rwanda Patriotic Front, consisting of Tutsis and moderate Hutus, defeated the Hutu government and brought an end to the killing. Rwanda exists today (only 29 years later) under a nationalist ideology, where people do not identify by tribe, but rather as just "Rwandan".

    The museum houses 250,000 victims of the genocide in a mass grave. Pix were not allowed inside the museum.

    Afterwards, our group briefly toured a memorial to 10 Belgian soldiers that died fighting the genocide, then we had lunch at Hotel Des Mille Collines (hotel of a thousand hills), the real life hotel depicted in the movie "Hotel Rwanda." It is the true story of the hotel manager who saved the lives of 1250+ Tutsis ensconced in the hotel during the genocide.

    Worthy of note: Kigali is immaculate. Not one piece of plastic, paper, or garbage anywhere. We haven't seen anything like this throughout the rest of Africa.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Jinja is the source of the White Nile, which joins with the Blue Nile in Khartoum
    Our campsite, overlooking the White NileChipati is a local favorite: fried egg + tortilla used as a wrap for whatever you put in itWe grabbed a sunset cruise1

    46. Uganda: Jinja - on the Nile

    July 3, 2023 in Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Jinja is the last overnight location of our 56 day overlander tour, before heading to Nairobi Kenya to catch our flight to Ethiopia.

    Jinja is considered the source of the White Nile, which combines with the Blue Nile in Sudan, therefter being referred to as just "the Nile". My group went for a sunset cruise on the river, and I did a little kayaking as well.

    We sampled chipati while we were here, which is a local food that combines fried egg with a tortilla, and uses that as a wrap, with other miscellaneous food inside.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Criag was in line at Cairo Airport b4 the ticket agents. The rope guy is still setting up :)
    Our tour will take us from the capital AA, to Bahir Dar on Lake Tana, then Gondar, then LalibelaEthnographic Museum, home to Emperor Haile Selassie, born Tafari Mekonnen."Ras", (duke), plus Selassie's real first name Tafari, becomes the source of the term RastafariSome museum shots..."Chat" is a recreational drug enjoyed by indigenous people by chewing catha edulis plant leavesThe local market for the low income part of town...It was Sunday. Our guide told us this was a quiet day on the streets

    47. Ethiopia: Addis Ababa

    July 8, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Our flight from Nairobi Kenya to Addis Ababa Ethiopia went smoothly. Of course, Craig had us at the airport so early that we beat the Ethiopian Airlines staff there, and had to wait for them to set up. Haha.

    Upon arrival in AA, after a 15 minute delay chatting with a guy at the airport who we thought was our shuttle driver (but who turned out to be just a guy wanting to change money for us), we made our way to our hotel. Arriving around 9:30P, they seemed unaware of our reservation, but my "boy scout" travelling partner had ALL the paperwork, and the confusion was quickly dispelled.

    Our Africa experience now changes, from an animal focus, to a cultural focus. Our one day in Addis gave us time for a visit to a museum and to the markets.

    The Ethnological Museum is situated on the campus of Addis Ababa University, in the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie, whose real name is Tafari Makonnen. His pre-emperor title of "Ras", meaning duke or prince, coupled with his first name was the source of the word "Rastafarian", a counter-culture movement developed in Jamaica and brought to light by reggae musicians like Bob Marley. Go figure

    After a tour of the museum, we drove through the local markets. Some pix attached.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    1
    We started our hike to the falls...We had to cross a river along the wayThey have a little dinghy that takes people back and forthThe pathway got extremely muddyWe weren't prepared for the muddy hike - definitely the wrong shoesWe were in the middle of nowhere, walking thru individual indigenous family farms1Our first glimpse of the fallsRun-off from the fallsThis suspension bridge was built for the farmers on the other side of the chasm....Looking down from the bridgeThe local food is injera, made from teff flour. This one with spicy meat & saladThe locals eat this every day, and its on every menu in every restaurantYonni & Dagi, our driver & guide, ready to chow down on some injera. Yum!

    48. ETH: Bahir Dar - Blue Nile Falls

    July 10, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Our tour guide for the drive through Ethiopia was Dagi, and our driver, Yonnis. They picked us up in Addis & we headed off to Bahir Dar.

    The Blue Nile Falls is a key tourist attraction in this part of Ethiopia. It is known as Tis Abay in Amharic, meaning 'Smoke Abay'.

    The river's path takes it to Khartoum, Sudan, where it joins the White Nile (which originates in Uganda, as you saw in my last post). Collectively the 2 rivers are the primary source of the Nile River, which also flows through Egypt, ultimately emptying into the Mediterranean Sea. The construction of a much-needed hydroelectric dam upstream (the river flows north, so upstream is south, in Ethiopia) has reduced the flow of the falls, but the real issue lies in Egypt, where the many people relying on the Nile are affected by the reduction in flow.

    Although puny in comparison to Victoria Falls in Tanzania, I enjoyed this experience more. The Nile Falls were located in a remote, lush green area surrounded by local farmland. It gave me the feeling of enjoying a special place in nature, as opposed to joining the herd at a tourist attraction.

    Food update: We got introduced to injera, a thin pancake made from local teff flour, which is topped in the center with your choice of food. You eat the dish with your hands, tearing off a piece of the pancake, and using it to pick up and eat your topping. Its a bit messy as the pancake becomes soggy, but its a traditional practice for Ethiopians to eat with their hands. Not my cup of tea, but I'm glad i tried it.    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler

    49. ETH: BD - Monastery on Lake Tana

    July 10, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Today we took a boat ride across Lake Tana (largest lake in Ethiopia) to visit a 14th century monastery.

    The Ura Kidanemihret monastery was founded in the 14th century and updated to its current condition in the 16th century. Its interior is decorated with numerous murals painted between 100 and 250 years ago.Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Fasil Ghebbi fortress compound
    Debre Birhan Selassie ChurchThe ceiling is covered with 135 cherubs smiling down upon visitorsDancing and singing at the local "traditional house"Ekista Dance - traditional Amhara region cultural dance2Am I doing it right? :)

    50. ETH: Gondar - Fortress, church & fun

    July 11, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We visited Gondar, a city in northern Ethiopia known for the walled Fasil Ghebbi fortress and palace compound. King Fasil (Fasilidas) settled in Gondar and established it as a permanent capital in 1636. The fortress city functioned as the centre of the Ethiopian government until 1864. At the center of the compound is the immense 17th-century castle of Emperor Fasilides, which combines Portuguese, Indian and local architectural styles.

    We also visited the Debre Birhan Selassie church, which means Trinity and Mountain of Light, and is the most famous place of worship in Gondar. Originally painted for those unable to read, every inch of the church walls are covered in vivid depictions of biblical verses.

    But the real fun was heading out one evening to a local establishment called a "traditional house", where we watched the ekista dance. Eskista is a traditional Ethiopian cultural dance from the Amhara ethnic group performed by men, women, and children. It's known for its unique emphasis on intense shoulder movement. I gave it a shot, but, as usual, my enthusiasm outweighed my talent!    Read more

  • Karen HechingerAfrica 2023Traveler
    Cross of St. LalibelaVisiting with the monk while he works on his artThe swastika symbol has no relation to Hitler. Symbol (from 9th cent) represents spiritualityChurch of St GeorgeHeading to the top floor of the Lalibela restaurantThe whole structure is kind of roller coaster-likeGreat view...

    51. Ethiopia: Lalibela

    July 13, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Ok, I was really grateful that Craig did all the work to research and book both our Ethiopia and Egypt tours. Truthfully, I was mostly focused on the 8 week safari-overlanding tour.

    I thought I was up for it when he said these 2 countries would have more of a cultural focus. That is, until today, when we were subjected to a guided tour of ELEVEN churches in one day. I was numb after the first few, and looking for a spire to jump off of after a half dozen.

    That being said, the eleven rock-hewn (carved into rock) Churches of Lalibela are monolithic structures named after the late-12th and early-13th century King Gebre Mesqel Lalibela of the Zagwe dynasty, who commissioned the massive building project of 11 rock-hewn churches to recreate the holy city of Jerusalem in his own kingdom. The site remains in use by the Ethiopian Orthodox Christian Church to this day, and it remains an important place of pilgrimage for Ethiopian Orthodox worshipers. It took 24 years to build all the 11 rock hewn churches.

    This was our last evening in Ethiopia - we celebrated dinner with our guide at a neat looking restaurant overlooking Lalibela.    Read more

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