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Belgium, France and Holland
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Belgium, France and Holland

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    Pont du Gard

    April 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    On our way to Carcassonne, we stopped at a World UNESCO site called Pont du Gard. This is an ancient Roman aqueduct built in the first century AD to carry water over 50 kilometers to the Roman city of Nimes. Built of limestone, the aqueduct rises above the river in a fine example of Roman arches and engineering.
    We walked down to the aqueduct and crossed it to the other side where I also took a look at a prehistoric cave near the base of the bridge. Olive trees and flowering shrubs dotted the landscape before giving way to the forest blanketing the hills. This is a beautiful and interesting area.
    We made it back to the information center in time to watch a short video about the aqueduct and learned more about the engineering skills of the Romans. Of course, the hard work was done by the slaves, and I couldn't help but think that I would probably be a slave if I lived in those times. The emotional impact of this site would be very different from a slaves' point of view as opposed to that of a tourist.    Read more

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    Carcassonne

    April 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Carcassonne is a walled city built by the Romans and then taken over by the French. It used to stand on the border between France and Spain, making it a necessary fortification to protect the French, but eventually the Spanish border was moved closer to the Pyrenees mountains, reducing the need for this castle.
    Inside the walls, we visited the Basilica with its beautiful stained glass, but we learned about a religious crusade that raged here in the Languedoc lands. In the 11th century, a new religion appeared in this region called Cathars, and they didn't adhere to the Catholic beliefs. They didn't pay homage to the Pope, but called themselves Christians. They believed that the good God created everything immaterial like the soul and the evil power created material things. Therefore getting rid of material possessions would bring you closer to God. Of course, the opulent Catholic Churches seemed to be evil places to the Cathars, who did not build churches, but held worship in their houses and believed in reincarnation.
    The Catholic Church became concerned about the rapid spread of Cathar, and Pope Innocent III called for all crusade or war of terror to "kill them all, God will know his own". It is estimated that around half a million men, women and children were killed during this terrible time and this also started the Inquisition as Cathars were tortured prior to dying.
    Eventually the Cathars fled to new lands such as North America. This type of history is really hard to reconcile with the concept of a loving, healing Christianity. It's hard to think about the atrocities that have been committed in the name of religion.
    But interestingly, at a shop nearby the Basilica, there were witches for sale reminding me of Galicia, Spain!    Read more

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    Carcassonne castle

    April 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Chateau de Carcassonne cost $9.50 per person to enter and it took over an hour to walk through it, climbing up to towers and descending into rooms filled with Roman artifacts. In one room, there were musicians playing medieval instruments including one that was very reminiscent of bagpipes.
    We saw hoarders which are wooden corridors high up on the walls of the Chateau. These were used by soldiers to shoot their crossbows or drop stones onto attackers.
    By the time we left the castle, Doug was played out. We made our way to a restaurant named L'Escargot for a break. Doug had some escargots, while I had foie gras. Then he had a beef skewer with baby potatoes and vegetables. I had squid followed by a chocolate lava cake. Doug had salted caramel bread pudding and it was a lovely break before rejoining our bus tour.    Read more

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    Sanctuary of Notre Dame de Lourdes

    April 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After a day of traveling on the bus, we arrived in the town of Lourdes which is only about 15,000 in population. This is considered a Holy Sanctuary because a 14 year old girl, named Bernadette, saw a series of apparitions in a cave in 1858, that told her that the apparition was the immaculate conception. The girl dug in the ground of the cave as directed by the apparition and water started flowing in a spring that has never gone dry since.
    Three Basilicas have been built here and the largest and newest one holds 25,000 people and is built underground. The other two stand in a square with religious mosaics, tall steeples and a crowned dome marking their importance.
    Walking past the Basilicas, we found the famous cave or grotto with a tower of candles in front. Crossing the river by bridge brought us to a series of huts that were called the chambers of light. Here, the faithful can buy candles and light them in the chambers as prayers for loved ones. Hundreds of candles flickered and sputtered under the large fume hoods.
    This place feels very powerful and spiritual. I'm so glad we came here.    Read more

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    Lourdes, France

    April 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The town of Lourdes is completely devoted to the Sanctuary and the streets are lined with hotels and souvenir shops selling all manner of religious items. We bought some small bottles to collect Holy water in, and a couple of rosaries, as well as our candles for the procession later tonight.
    Our hotel, Gallia Lourdes, could have stepped right out of a set for Downton Abbey as it was furnished with vintage two seat conversation settees to the round multi seat settee. The dining room sported crystal chandeliers and vintage cornices and mouldings that really appealed to my decorating tastes. Near the Basilica, statues abound usually featuring Mary or Bernadette, and there were several areas where we could collect Holy Spring water. I'm glad we're not here in high season, as there were big enough crowds now!    Read more

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    Lourdes, Candlelight procession

    April 22, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    At 9:00 pm every night, a candlelight procession is held in Lourdes. People start gathering in groups and form a long line, each holding a candle with a plastic or paper cover to shield the flame. We had purchased our candles near our hotel for 50 euros cents each.
    When the procession is ready to start, everyone lights their candles from others in the lineup, sharing with each other. From an eagle's perspective, it must look like a tiny flame at first that spreads and spreads until thousands of flickering flames make a glowing light moving and swaying in the night.
    As the procession follows the image of Mary down a road that winds around like a "U,", and ending up in the square in front of the Basilica, voices are broadcast in many different languages reciting prayers and singing songs. Each time "Ave Maria" is sung, the crowd joins in the chorus while lifting their candles to the sky in a powerful, unified demonstration of faith.
    Finally Mary is taken inside the church and gradually the crowd blows out their candles and heads home for the night. Doug and I walked home quietly, each reflecting on this very personal experience.    Read more

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    Mass in the Crypt, Baths and Grotto

    April 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This morning we got up at 6:15 am so we could be at the 7:00 am mass in the crypt. This chapel was quite small and we were worried about getting a seat, so we arrived half an hour early, and found only one other person there!
    Slowly the chapel filled until there were about 40 people in total and then we experienced a French mass led by two priests in white robes. It has been many years since I've been at a church service with Doug and this was a nice experience for me.
    We left the crypt as the sun rose behind the crowned dome supporting a large cross. The birds were singing and it seemed that "morning has broken" just like in one of my favorite songs.
    We lined up by the Lourdes Baths, because it can take hours to enter this part of the sanctuary. We even beat the volunteers there, only to be advised that the Baths are never busy on Sunday mornings because everyone goes to the international service first. But our waiting paid off as ourselves and 2 other couples from our tour were the first ones brought in for this ceremony. This used to mean that the person disrobed and was completely immersed in the Lourdes spring water that has produced miracles for some. But, due to the pandemic, this procedure has stopped.
    Doug and I were allowed to enter the chamber together, where a stone "bathtub" stood in front of us which is where immersion used to happen. Instead, we stood with a volunteer on each side and were led through a ritual. Our volunteer guide told us that Mary had instructed Bernadette to use the spring water to wash her hands, and then she poured water from the grotto spring into our hands and we washed them.
    Next, the volunteer told us that Mary had told Bernadette to wash her face and water was again poured into our hands and we washed our faces.
    Finally, the volunteer said that Mary told Bernadette to drink the spring water and she poured more water into our hands and we drank the Holy water.
    Our Bath was completed by prayers led by the volunteer. I think it might have been "Holy mother of God", but I don't know the words to this Catholic prayer so I listened quietly.
    The whole procedure was beautiful, and meaningful and caring. It invoked deep feelings in me that brought tears to my eyes and I am glad to have shared this moment with Doug.
    As we left the Baths, a service was just finishing at the Grotto, so we got in to see the place where the spring now runs and the place where the apparition of Mary appeared.    Read more

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    Chateau du Payre

    April 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Tonight we traveled on our bus for about an hour to reach Chateau du Payre, our optional evening tour. This vineyard and winery is a 5th generation woman owned business that has expanded into a Bed and Breakfast wine touring venue. Located on the edge of a small town, our hostess owns acres and acres of vines stretching as far as the eye can see.
    We got to walk through her Chateau grounds to the vineyard and she explained how grapes grow, how she prunes the plants to create better ventilation for the fruit and how she harvests differently for each variety of wine.
    Later, she took us into her winery where she showed us the tanks that store the grape juice as it ferments for three weeks. Next came the underground cement storage vats where the wine can wait before being blended and bottled.
    This winery makes 15 types of wine, including some white, rose and many reds. After a short video about her winery, she served three different white wines to taste. Then she brought us to a dining room where she served us a three course meal with a rose and two red wines to sample. A charcuterie board was followed by Quiche Lorraine and salad, and then a creamy fruity dessert wrapped up our evening.
    Spirits were quite high as we said our goodbyes to this very industrious entrepreneur, and returned to our bus for our trip home.    Read more

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    Bordeaux

    April 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Bordeaux means "edge of water" and the part of the city that we visited ran along the wide, cafe au lait coloured Garonne river. We spent two nights in this city famous for its robust red wines, its Gross Cloche and its limestone buildings.
    On my Mom's birthday, we drove around Bordeaux for a city tour and when we passed le Grosse Cloche, a beautiful city gate I wanted to see, the bus barely paused. I was quite disappointed, but c'est la vie!
    We toured on foot at the centre of town and saw a beautiful fountain. When we stopped for free time, Doug and our friends wanted to sit in a wine bar, so I decided to go for a walk and find my gate.
    I made sure to verify my map orientation with our guide and off I went, suddenly free to explore! I headed down St. Catherine Street until I found an arch with two bronze turtles beside it. This meant I'd walked too far, but I think I was meant to see these turtles.
    It was only an adjustment of a few blocks and there I was, standing in front of the Big Bell gate. It was worth the visit to this 18th century bell above a former dungeon for juveniles. This gate was one of two Middle Aged entrances to the city, built in the 15th century and this bell was installed in 1775.
    After I returned to my friends, I still had an hour to walk and my group were not interested, so I went to the nearby Place des Quinconces and saw the Monument aux Girondist which had stampeding stallions that had mermaid tales and water streaming out of their nostrils. The steeds were held in check by a Goddess and her entourage.
    Surrounding this Square was a huge flea market selling antiques. I enjoyed strolling through this treasure trove, dreaming of how I could decorate a villa with these vintage pieces.
    What an experience discovering this city on my own!    Read more

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    Cognac

    April 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Cognac is the name of a region in France and the famous distilled liquor is made here, which is where we toured next. We learned that this beverage can be made in other parts of the world, but then it's called brandy.
    The tour was at a grand Chateau , so before we learned about making Cognac, we toured this castle where one of the kings of France was born. We started in a great room that had a huge fireplace and were led through a series of rooms decorated with coats of arms bearing a fire breathing salamander, busts of Queens and paintings of the King.
    We stopped in the stable that only housed the King's horse and then climbed to a beautiful, long room with ornate ceiling arches that actually formed the letter "W" in honour of the Royal. Although it can't be proven yet, there's great suspicion that Leonardo da Vinci might have designed this room as he was a good friend of the King.
    Finally we came to the cellars under this palace that are now used to store barrels of Cognac as it ages for a variety of years, up to eighty. After eighty years, we were told that the taste of the Cognac declines and is not good anymore. This would mean that the workers in this distillery will be making bottles of liquor that won't be opened in their lifetimes.
    Heavy cobwebs decorate this cool room that smells like the drink it protects, and to save the oak barrels from insects that like to burrow in wood, each one has narrow wooden bindings that attract the bugs away from oak. Then the caves are home to many spiders that eat the bugs. So the cobwebs are appreciated and celebrated.
    Back at the reception center, glasses of 40% amber liquid were served and Doug must have liked the Cognac tasting because he bought a bottle to bring home.    Read more

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    Loire Valley - Chateau de Chenonceau

    April 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    This castle was first built by the King Henry II's mistress, Diane de Poitiers and upon his death, the Queen, Catherine de Medici, took over the palace and continued its development. This Chateau is known as the women's castle and its ornate style and beautiful gardens show a feminine touch.
    When the reign of terror swept the country after the French Revolution, this castle was spared due to the way its owners treated the people in this region.
    So the rooms of the Chateau boast beautiful tapestries, ornate furnishings and wonderful art. We were given a couple of hours to visit this building and the gardens, and still were rushed!    Read more

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    Chateau de Chenonceau gardens

    April 25, 2023 in France

    The gardens here were full of blooms of all colours surrounding perfectly manicured lawns and I could easily imagine the ladies of old in their long gowns strolling through these pathways. The limestone Chateau gleamed in the afternoon light and reflected in the river below its grand hall.
    One smaller building was covered in purple wisteria, making it seem like a romantic cottage out of a fairy tale. Everywhere we looked another beautiful building or garden dazzled us.
    On our way to the gate, we took the time to try our luck in the Chateau labrinth. In the centre of this maze, we stood in small gazebo covered with intertwining vines while we watched some families chasing young children through the twisting paths. Their laughter was infectious and raised our spirits as we headed back to our bus.    Read more

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    Chambord Chateau

    April 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Chambord Chateau, the largest Chateau in the Loire Valley, was a hunting lodge of King Francis I. It is definitely masculine as it is sturdy and practical, with its decor leaning towards hunting motifs and stag heads mounted on walls.
    Apparently Francis I wanted to be the King of all Europe and built this Chateau in deference to the title and power he'd have once he was voted in. But there was fear of giving any one monarch complete power, so he failed to get the votes necessary. At least he got the fancy hunting lodge!
    Unlike the Chateau from yesterday, this one did not fare well during the Reign of Terror and many of its rooms were empty. But the rooms that were furnished, were lavish and we saw that the King's bedroom came with two beds. The larger, fancier one was for his Highness, while his manservant had a smaller bed in the corner of the room. I guess you never know when you might need some assistance during the night...
    This Chateau had sweeping stone staircases that took us right up to the roof where we looked out on the gardens and lands of the castle. A shepherd and his dog rounded up a herd of sheep down below just as sheep have been herded here for centuries.
    A lot of restoration is underway at this Chateau, so scaffolding was present on almost every tower, but we enjoyed our quick visit there anyway.    Read more

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    Musee d'Orsay, Paris

    April 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We arrived back in Paris around 1:30 pm and found that our hotel room was not ready. We were able to store our bags in our friends' room and then we caught the RER train to the Musee d'Orsay. This museum used to be the main railway station of Paris, but when the city outgrew the size of this building, it experienced several reincarnations such as being used in the war, and later to help homeless people. Finally it found its niche as a museum for impressionist art.
    The building still has its curved, glass roof and it sports two huge glass clocks on its facade that looks out onto the Seine.
    I took Doug to see the clocks first because they're a photographer's dream. Taking pictures of the clocks with the light and the cityscapes peaking through was so much fun!
    Then we wandered through galleries of paintings and sculptures, pausing to look at ones that evoked emotion or caught our eye. I enjoyed seeing paintings that I had learned about in Mrs. Little's French class in the Hartney Collegiate Institute I attended as a teenager. Then, I clipped stories of the French artists and their paintings out of the Reader's Digest for assignments from French class. Now I stood mere inches away from them! I wonder if Mrs. Little knew the impact she made on my life?
    Almost two hours later, we agreed that our "art compartments" were full and we headed out to get some fresh air while we processed the stories that these artists, including Degas, Money, Manet, Van Gogh and Renoir recorded so long ago.    Read more

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    Jardin des Tuileries, Paris

    April 26, 2023 in France

    Across from the Musee d'Orsay stretch the Jardin des Tuileries from the Place de la Concorde right up to the Louvre. These gardens would have been created for the pleasure of the Royal families, but now they're open to the public for all to enjoy.
    We strolled past the animal statues in front of the Musee d'Orsay, around the roasted chestnut salesman, across the arched bridge and into the famous gardens.
    Sculptures are surrounded by trees, grass, bushes and flowers, with wide gravel pathways dividing the gardens into a series of squares.
    Rather than try to see the entire garden, we chose to get a seat at an outdoor cafe where we could nibble on a deconstructed bruschetta while we absorbed the peaceful tranquility. The afternoon was a perfect temperature for patio time, and the daffodils beside us were a good reminder that we were completing our Spring Tulip cruise.    Read more

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    Farewell Dinner

    April 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    This is our last night in Paris and to celebrate, our tour director, Simeon, had made a reservation at L'Escarmouche, a bistro near the Pantheon on the Left Bank. The RER train whisked us to the Notre Dame - St. Michel station, and using Google maps, Doug and I walked to our restaurant.
    The dining room was in the cellar which lent a special air to our gathering and our meal was serenaded by two musicians playing an accordion and a guitar. Doug said it was just like on Lady and the Tramp, although we didn't have spaghetti.
    Onion soup, escargots, prawns, cod, chocolate lava cake and profiteroles and dinner was complete. Under the watchful eye of the glowing Eiffel tower, we said goodbye to our fellow travelers, each heading on to their next adventures in life like we are
    What a way to spend our last hours in la belle Paris!
    April 27th 09:30 am - It's only taken several taxi rides and almost a month, but we succeeded in getting a taxi to the Charles de Gaulle airport on a flat rate. My French helped a lot and we weren't the same gullible tourists who arrived here on April 4th. We navigated the airport with finesse, and started our journey to home sweet home.

    What has this experience taught us? That there are so many wonderful people in the world and so much beauty waiting to be discovered. But we also have so many wonderful people in our personal world made up of family and friends, and this is what makes home the best place on earth! We can't wait to reconnect with all our loved ones!    Read more

    Trip end
    April 27, 2023
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