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Emilia Romagna 2023
  • Jcrieff

Emilia Romagna 2023

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    20 de noviembre de 2023
    JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    PDX

    20 de noviembre de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    I couldn't sleep, so I was out of bed by 3:45am. By the time my alarm went off at 4:30am, I was already ready to go. So I did a little extra cleaning and snuggled with my babies.

    I had a lovely Lyft driver, Cheryl. She has traveled extensively throughout the country as a photographer. I arrived at just before 6am, with no line to check bags, and a very short TSA line. So I had breakfast at the Country Cat.

    At the gate, there was some commotion about our flight not leaving, and being on different flights. My phone actually has a separate ticket to MXP. But I'm on the plane....    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    JFK

    20 de noviembre de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    My flight was uneventful, I wasn't sure at first whether my luggage made the plane. Not sue why, bit probably because of the alternative reservation. I watched "Shaun of the Dead", then "Wizard of Oz."

    I went to the Delta Sky Lounge for the 3+ hours I have to wait. There was a line, but it was less than 5 minutes to wait.

    I worked on some emails and did my Duolingo for the evening. I also enjoyed some good food and wine.

    The gate was a 3 minute walk and I arrived right before my group boarded. Getting all snuggled in for the next 9 hours!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    MXP

    21 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    I'm here!!! As usual, I didn't sleep at all. The flight seemed short, but I was so uncomfortable! Dinner was chicken curry, with a potato salad. I fell asleep briefly to "Pulp Fiction," then dozed to "The Hunt for Red October." Breakfast was a really bad egg mcmuffin type sandwich.

    The post flight stuff wasn't too bad. Passport control went fast. I did have some problems finding the baggage claim, but I don't think my bag went around too many times!

    I'm now on the train from MXP to the Milano Centrale station. It's a 45 minute trip and I started to fall asleep. There are people in front of me speaking Italian that I can almost understand.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    The Giudecca Canal

    21 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    I missed the boat by a split second at the ACTV dock. I looked at the next dock and there was a viable option. At least I thought it was. It turns out that this vaporetto goes through the Guidecca Canal, not the Grand Canal. This one is wider and more industrial. But I think it's a new one for me. It's taking forever because it is criss-crossing the WIDE canal!.

    I'm riding in the back to stay awake...

    I made it to the vaporetto stop and walked the 10 minutes to the hotel. The original route was so crowded that I went a different way that took longer. But worth it.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Hotel Mercurio

    21 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    I found the hotel--once I reached the theater, I knew where I was. I forgot about all the stairs! For some reason, I thought since I stayed with Mom here, there was an elevator. I checked in, and luckily, there was a person to help with my HEAVY suitcase!

    My room is on the top floor. Not as nice as our room last time, but fine. I started the unpacking/reorganizing project, then tried to take a nap. No luck, but I did rinse out my stinky clothes and took a shower to wash stinky me!

    At 5pm or so, I left for my adventures. First stop...euros!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero
    Pizzeria Da Gianni
    Bavaro dei Fioi

    The Cicchetti Crawl

    21 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    I headed out after getting some advice from the man at the desk. He mentioned that there was a festival in Dorsoduro and a temporary bridge from San Marco. I decided to head that way. First I found an ATM and after a call to my bank, I got 260€. I couldn't get more than $300,and with the exchange I had to try a few times!

    There were poliziotti everywhere and I soon realized that they were crowd control--boy was it crowded! I had to fight my way through to get to a place to cut down to the Giudecca canal. I have listed the stops, cicchetti, and cost here:

    Pizzeria Ristorante Da Gianni--Spritz 5€
    Bavaro dei Fioi.-- Porchetta panino and Langorino 6.50€
    Bar Canton--sardine with pickled onion.Campari spritz 6€
    Pugni --2 Salmon Soave 8€
    Ai Bocon di Vino -- Lardo con , mortadella con rucola, and prosciutto con marmellata. Cynar spritz 11€

    It wad a 20 minute walk home. I wanted to stop again, but I was very tired--and had had enough to eat and drink!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Alla Laguna

    22 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    I woke up at 7:30 and got ready for breakfast. I chose the 6€ Italian breakfast, which was fine after last night. It was a cappuccino, coronetto, 2 little doughnuts, and a glass of juice. Then I was back in the room to get ready for my trip to the lagoon.

    The walk was nice, as it always is in the morning. I stopped briefly at the Rialto Bridge--last time I was here it was under construction. Once I was in Canneregio, it was quiet.

    I am now on the vaporetto to Burano.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Burano

    22 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We arrived in Burano around 11 am. I spoke with some Argentinian ladies--a mother and daughter after I took their picture.

    I headed straight for La Dogeressa, the pashmina store. It was closed (for good?) 😔. On the main drag I stopped for a caffe doppio. The woman at the counter was surly! As I was walking I saw some pashminas at a small shop. I went in to buy and the girl was lovely. We spoke in Italian and I bought a "beige freddo" and a denim blue pashmina. We talked about learning different languages. She said, "La aspetta," which means "come back here again." 😃 Next stop was the post office for stamps.

    I wanted to take the 12:25pm vaporetto and thought I was close. Nope! Other side of the island! I hustled and made it with a few minutes to spare.

    I'm inside the ferry and trying to decide whether to stop in Murano. It will be crowded, and I don't really need any more millifiori! It has been a nice sunny day so far.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Pranzo a Ai Promessi Sposi

    22 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    I decided to skip Murano. I wanted to have lunch, and most places there were probably going to be crowded. My hotelier recommended a place in Canneregio that was close to the vaporetto dock. Of course, I got lost. I think I'd be better off with a paper map!

    The restaurant was very close to the hotel where I stayed in 2017, Hotel Ca' d' Oro. After going around in circles for a bit, I found it.

    I had a 1/4 liter of wine, the spaghetti con nera di seppia, and a salad. Then some "biscotti di Burano." Good restaurant!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero
    Bar Al Canton
    Alla ScuolaBacaro RistoroBacari Magna Bevi TasiHarry's Bar

    Cercando nel Castello

    22 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    The man at the hotel (Walter?) recommended I go to Castello tonight. I was a long walk from the hotel - in Venice terms, especially with my propensity to get lost! I had to put known landmarks in my phone since most of the places did not come up in maps. It took many wrong turns, but I found them!

    Bar Al Canton -- Spritz con Luxardo Bitter Bianco 3.50€
    Alla Scuola-- zucchini with tuna, stuffed cuttlefish, polenta topped with shrimp 15€
    Barcaro Risorto-- crostini with cod, limoncello spritz 10€
    Bacaro Magna Bevi Tasi-- "Spicy meat" crostini, Hugo Spritz 9.50€
    Harry's Bar-- Peach Spritz 22€!!!

    Okay the last one was a bellini...

    So, I had my one over-priced drink at Harry's Bar. It was a small place, with a bar that sat 8 or so people. The waiters were all in white jackets with black bow ties. Very snooty. At the bar I met a couple from England, who I closed the place down with. Alison and John were from SW England, but she has family in Atlanta. We talked politics, travel, and relationships. There was a lot of hugging.

    I arrived home around 11:30pm and fell into bed.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    A Presto Venezia

    23 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    I walked.36,668 steps yesterday...so I slept until 8:30. Honestly, I'd be okay with <10k today!

    I did the Italian breakfast again today. Since I'm not hungry, it's not worth the extra 7€. Afterwards, I took my time packing up. I ended up checking out at 11 on the dot.

    Using the backpack straps on my suitcase, I walked, very slowly, to the St Angelo vaporetto stop. It seemed closer than San Marco, plus it was less time on the boat. A Spanish speaking woman asked me for help finding her hotel on her phone. I was not much help. Even after that, I caught an earlier boat than I imagined I would. On the bus, I tried to soak it all in. It is a beautiful, sunny day and the Grand Canal was beautiful. Watching the gondolas, water taxis, delivery boats, etc is magical. I spoke to a woman from Melbourne who was spending 5 days in La Serenissima.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Falafel in Ferrara

    23 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    I missed my train to Ravenna by about a minute. I actually got on the wrong train but had the notion to ask a conductor. I knew an 8 minute connection would be tight. I started to freak out a bit on the train, but what is an extra hour in Ferrara?!?

    After checking with the agent at the station, who told me that I could use my ticket for the next train, I saw a park across the street. In the park was a falafel place. Why not? I must say, it is delicious! Better than hanging out in the station...

    Almost time to go!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Casa Masoli

    23 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    The walk to the hotel was not bad. Flat and not too many turns. The B&B is in a nondescript building, but inside, it is like a small palace. Aurelia greeted me--she didn't speak much English, so she was happy I understood Italian. She gave me a list of restaurants and a map and took me to the room. My jaw dropped to the floor when I saw it.

    First of all, it looks like a room in a palazzo. Second, the space is bigger than my whole house! It has a tub and a shower, plus toilet and bidet. And two sinks. There's also an espresso maker and mini fridge. There are two seating areas. I feel the need to entertain...

    After unpacking a bit, I headed out for a bottle of wine. I was headed for a wine store I found online, but Aurelia said there was a place closer, with a Coop store. It turned out to be an enormous food hall--Mercato Coperto.

    There was a wine bar and some food stalls which were closed.ar the time. I wandered around the grocery store for a bit and picked a bottle of white that looked good.

    Back at the room, I rested with some wine before dinner.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Osteria Passatelli

    23 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    There were three restaurants that Aurelia recommended, and I picked Osteria Passatelli. It was a big place, and there was a band setting up on stage. Honestly, I was not in the mood for a band. Then I saw it was a cover band. Hmmm...

    The menu was quite extensive, and I was quite hungry. It took me a long time to pick something. I settled on a carafe of white wine, a mixed salad, and the roasted coniglio (bunny) with roasted potatoes. I spoke briefly with a woman at the next table, who was curious about the English speaker.

    The order of food here is salad after main meal--it always throws me. The rabbit was delicious--it almost tasted like turkey. It was Thanksgiving, after all! The salad was a mix of radicchio, bib lettuce, tomatoes, and shredded carrots. Mostly shredded carrots!

    The band didn't start until 10 pm, and it was after 9 pm. I was exhausted but started to think I could make a little bit of the show.

    The band started at about 9:45pm and it was fun. They had a lead singer who looked like Freddy Mercury, but the rest of the guys were just old musicians. It was interesting to listen to since they were Italian and sometimes I couldn't understand their English in the songs. As they continued to play, people started to dance a bit. I was singing along with the songs that I knew. At one point a younger woman pulled me up to dance. "Crazy Little Thing Called Love?" Anyway, I stayed the whole show !

    I got home around midnight and was too wound up to sleep!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Mosaic tour

    24 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    I slept until 9 am. because I wanted some breakfast, which closed at 10 am. I didn't sleep great, but I need to get a somewhat early start because the museums/churches close by 3 or 4 pm. I had some cold cuts and a cappuccino for breakfast and talked to Aurelia a bit.

    I headed out around 11 am. and found the first stop. I bought a ticket for all the main places which cost 12.50€.

    Basilica di San Vitale
    Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
    Baptistry of Neoniano
    Archbishop Museum and Chapel of Saint Andrea
    Basilica of Saint Apollinare Nuovo

    All but the Archbishop Museum had a lot of mosaics. Actually, even that had a small chapel. I was going to go into details for each, but honestly, they all started to look alike after a while! The mausoleums were beautiful and small. The last place was really beautiful, with long mosaics along both walls of saints--"Guys" on one side, "Dolls" on the other.

    The sites were all pretty close, with 2 in one place and another 2 in another. The last place was alone. The mausoleums had a timed entrance because they were so small.

    Before I reached the last church, I walked past Dante's tomb, house, museum, etc. Apparently, he lived in Ravenna after he was exiled from Florence. If I ever read the "Divine Comedy," I will come back and see all of this. I also tried to visit another church that had a water filled crypt, but it was closed for another 1/2 hour. I was sort of "churched out" anyway.

    So I went back to the B&B and rested. It was about 3 pm, and I wanted to nap. But instead, I pulled one of the big armchairs in front of the TV and watched NCIS LA. (I find I watch shows that I never watch at home, only because they are in English).    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Osteria dal Tempo Perso

    24 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    At about 6 pm, I started thinking about dinner. I always forget that on Friday and Saturday nights, it is hard to get a table. I wasn't that hungry (even though I hadn't eaten since breakfast!) and considered skipping dinner or going to the market for some prosciutto and cheese to bring back to the room. But I decided to go for it. I figured if I arrived when they opened, there might be a chance.

    There were two places that interested me. I walked past the first at 6:50, and it looked good. 2nd was still closed, but I waited at the door until 7 pm. I asked for a table for one and told them I would not stay long. I knew there might be a late reservation, and I could have the table until then. Bingo! I had to promise to be out by 9 pm, which was fine with me.

    They had a tasting menu for 55€, which I chose. I also ordered a 1/2 bottle of wine--Albina, which is a local white grape. There was a mixed group of women next to me--one German, one Lithuanian, and one Italian. We spoke a little, and I wanted to know how they met. But the Italian wasn't into talking to me, so I minded my own business... Back to the food! It started with an amuse bouche of some sort of beet cream. Next was a carpaccio of amberjack. (This was the only course that fell flat). The pumpkin ravioli with shrimp and tomato was great. My favorites were the shrimp wrapped in some sort of crunchy "strings" and the crocker fish. I had an amaro with dessert-it was like a bay leaf amaro I had in Portland. It was all worth the euros!

    I was out by 9pm, and headed home. It was cold out, but it felt good. There was a cocktail bar across the street from the B&B and I decided to stop in. It's called Fargo and they serve a little food...TexMex! Very strange to see guacamole in Italy. I had a negroni, paid and went across the street to bed.

    As I was getting ready for bed, I realized that I forgot my purse at the bar. Panic! I literally fell out of the building as I ran back to the bar. They had it for me...phew! That would have been a disaster. My passport wasn't in it at least...

    With the adrenaline rush, I was wound up and decided to use the giant marble tub in the bathroom. The water never really got hot, but it still felt great. I was in bed around 11pm.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Last morning in Ravenna

    25 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

    I slept pretty well and got out of bed at 7:30. After putting in my contacts and getting dressed, I went to breakfast. This morning, I opted for eggs and bacon. I also had some cheese and a really delicious little pistachio cake, along with my cappuccino.

    Back in the room, I had about an hour to pack. I finished my ablutions and got everything in order. Check out was at 10 am , and I was in the lobby by 10:05. Since I can't check in to my hotel in Bologna until 2pm, I didn't want to leave town quite yet. I checked out and left my bags at he B&B.

    My first order of business was to find some lip balm. Mine fell apart at some point, and it is a necessity in winter! The Coop in the market had some. I wandered around a bit and tried to find a bottle of the amaro I had last night, but no luck.

    I finally decided to go back to the market hall and have an espresso and relax until noon. I want to take the 12:44 train to Bologna, and I needed about 10 minutes to walk to the station . It was fun to people watch for a bit.

    I picked up my bags around 12:10 and made my way to the station. The walk wasn't too bad, and I arrived about 20 minutes before departure.

    I'm on the train now. It is just over an hour trip. Two cities are now completed 😔. Next stop, Bologna 😁 !    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Bologna, I'm here!

    25 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    The trip to Bologna was uneventful. I arrived right about 2pm, and found a taxi to my hotel--it wad a 20 minute walk, which was too far 😀. This is definitely a big city, and I didn't feel like dragging my suitcase anymore.

    I had read the reviews for the hotel and they said it was a bit of a dump. But it is very well located in the centro, for under $100 per night. I'm on the 5th floor, and thank god there's an elevator! The room is a monk's cell, with a twin size bed, a chair, a small closet area, and a small bathroom. The shower is really small--and includes a bidet. I started to unpack and then got a message from my friend, Sarah.

    Sarah and her new boyfriend and they were in Bologna for the weekend. We made plans to meet up before my Eatwith dinner. I got my act together then headed towards the tower area to meet them. We had a few glasses of wine, then they had to go to an exhibit they wanted to see, and I had to go to my dinner.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Dinner at Frederico's

    25 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    The apartment with dinner was a 40-minute walk, and it took me 45...so I was late. I showed up, and they had already started. So I just poured myself a glass of wine and got into it. They were making pasta. I think Frederico, the host, made the dough a head of time. We just rolled it out. First, we made tortellini with ricotta, egg, and parmesan. We all got a chance to roll the dough and make a few tortellini. Then we rolled out dough for tagliatelli. The host had already made a ragu to go with the tagliatelli, but we watched him make a quick tomato sauce for the tortellini. We also watched him make some tiramisu.

    After all that, we moved to another room to eat. I learned more about the group, since I had missed any introductions. There was a family from San Diego--Mom, Dad, and daughter. The daughter is currently studying in Florence. Another couple was from Milan, but he's here studying medicine. Then there were 2 girls from LA. The food was good, the company even better. There was a lot of interesting conversations about the difference between the US and Italy.

    After the tiramisu, Frederico ushered us out and told us there was a taxi stand down the street. The family was heading back to Florence, so they left quickly.

    The rest of us hung out downstairs for a half an hour or so. The girls from LA were going in the same direction and we agreed to share a cab. Which was a great idea if there were any cabs! I discovered that Yvonne had sprained her ankle badly and was having a hard time walking. We couldn't find a taxi or a bus. We stopped at a falafel shop and I asked in Italian for help. Of course, there was someone whose English was better than mine... He pointed out the taxi stand, but there were no taxis. Finally a bus came and we all took that. They didn't have any 2€ coins, so paid for all of us. Haley gave me all her change, which was more than 4€!

    I missed my stop and got off and went to meet Sarah in the center. After some confusion, we found each other and found a place to have a drink. At around midnight, we said goodnight. O walked the 10 minutes to my room and went to bed!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Lazy day

    26 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    I stayed in bed until almost 11 a.m., but woke up around 9 am. I checked the free walking tour, but it was sold out. I booked the one for tomorrow morning instead. Then I looked at the tour I wanted to take on Tuesday, and it was unavailable. So now I have to rearrange my plans. Sarah had messaged earlier and and they were headed into the center. So I got my contacts in and got dressed. I needed caffeine, and there was an espresso vending machine in the hotel lobby. For 0.80€ I had a pretty good espresso shot!

    I started walking towards the main piazza and ended up at the Duomo. I hadn't heard from Sarah again, so I just sat in the sun on the steps across the square. Sarah messaged to say she was at Gamberini. It was just her and Lucy--no Florian. We ordered drinks at a small table in a street side enclosed area. I had a small sandwich with salmon and a "smoked" negroni. The negroni came under a dome of smoke!

    We chatted for a bit until Florian called Sarah to say he had already driven close by to pick her up. She had just ordered another drink, so we got the check and to-go cups. I walked with her to the car, which was about 10 minutes. It was in a more residential neighborhood. We said our goodbyes...for now. She invited me to stay with her in Milan on Wednesday night. (She actually invited me for Thursday, too. But I will stay at the airport hotel, as it will be easier on Friday morning) So I will see her then.

    I decided to find a grocery store to pick up supplies. I had to buy some conditioner so that I can wash my hair tonight. I found one close and ended up getting a bottle of wine, some spread, stuffed peppers, and mortadella. As I was walking back to the hotel, I passed a café that looked interesting. 051 Tigella e Vino had mostly outside seating and served "tigelle," which is a small, round, yeast bread, which reminded me of a flatter English muffin. I ordered 4 tigelle with mortadella and a cedro (cedar liquor) spritz. It was all very good!

    Back at the hotel, I changed into my "squishy clothes" and got into bed. I am exhausted and had planned this to be a lazy day, and I'm going to finish it that way!    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Walking tour

    27 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    I am currently at Bar Vittorio Emanuele, facing the main church. I don't think it is a "duomo. " Maybe a basilica? I'm having an espresso and a cornetto before my walking tour of Bologna.

    The tour started at the two towers in the center with about 12 people. Our guide was from Ferrara and gave a shout out to there. We learned about why there are so many porticos in Bologna. It was very dirty and smelly near the street, so they put pillars over the walkways to extend their 2nd floor. Next, we went to the old market, which is now the chamber of commerce. It seemed like we crisscrossed the main area several times. We went to the old university, which is now a library. There were city and country crests from all over the world--including the US and Peru. She took us down the market street, which was amazing!

    Finally, we went to the original Jewish ghetto. I knew that the first ghetto was in Venice. But I learned that at first, the ghettos were only in the towns ruled by the pope. She showed us a "peep hole" in the ceiling of the portico that they would use to see if there was danger. Then, they could escape through tunnels and passages between the buildings.

    This is where she left us. The girl next to me asked whether I had changed for a 20€ so she could tip. We started chatting, and I found out that she is Polish, but she has lived in Rome and currently lives in Barcelona. There was a young guy from San Francisco who I'd talked to a bit, and the 3 of us decided to get lunch...    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    The rest of the day

    27 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    The tour guide had recommended a place called Ragu for lunch. It was a mostly take out place, but we ate our food out of the boxes inside the restaurant. I learned that Kasia worked for a European airline and that she travels often. The guy was on his first trip to Italy and was heading to Florence the next day.

    After lunch, we ended up wandering around together. We grabbed a coffee so that we could use the bathroom. I told them about the "Margaret Rule." We went to the big church, San Petronio. There is a fresco that depicts Muhammed being thrust into hell. Apparently, Islamic groups have threatened to blow up the church because of this fresco. You have to pay 5€ to get close, but you can see it from the main nave.

    We stopped again for food and drinks at the big Mercato in the center. It is full of different food stalls, just prepared food, not groceries. I had an octopus and potato salad and a spritz. We wandered about some more, stopping for another coffee. Finally, we tried to go to the old university bookstore museum, but it was closed. We ended up going to the Anatomical Theater, which was cool. The tour guide told us that they usually cut up women (prostitutes) because they didn't think they had a soul. Luckily, the brothels were all across the street!

    At this point, we said ciao to Kasia. She had to find a bus to the airport. I went with the San Francisco guy to the Archeology Museum, but it was closed. Then we went to the Sala Borsa library, which was huge. At this point, I actually asked the guy his name. Rory. Anyway, we looked around and finally had a drink IN THE LIBRARY. Seriously...this is how you get kids into books. 😀

    After the library, Rory knew of a cocktail bar that had a special drink. He had the special drinks, some sort of sour, with egg whites. I had their house spritz, which used lambrusco instead of wine. It was good but tasted like Coke! Rory had dinner reservations at 8 pm, so we left and said goodbye.

    I was figuring out my next step and decided to go back into Aurum and have the sour drink! The people in the bar were very nice and they let me speak Italian! They were closing, so I said "ci vediamo" and headed towards the hotel.    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Dinner like a real Italian

    27 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    It was after 9pm when I was back at the hotel. Even though I'd been eating all day, I still wanting dinner.

    The original choice was closed, but there was a place next to it that looked good. I went in and I am glad I did!

    It was all delicious! I had a pasta with some sort of yellow cream sauce with guanciale. Then, a raw artichoke salad. For dessert, they brought cookies and a bottle of limoncello. Dangerous for me!

    It was great and the staff very gracious. As I was leaving, people were still coming in!

    I got home about midnight. So tired...    Leer más

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  • JcrieffEmilia Romagna 2023Viajero

    Slow start

    28 de noviembre de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    I woke up at 9 am and laid around in bed until almost 10 am. I decided that I really need to wash my hair. The shower is tiny, and the water was lukewarm, at best. But it felt good. The blow dryer was not worth anything either. So I hung out in the room until my hair was reasonably dry.

    Heading out towards the Piazza Maggiore, the first thing I noticed is how cold it is. Maybe 40°? I passed the statue of Neptune where they were putting up a Christmas tree. Unfortunately, the cafe on square, where I had breakfast yesterday, was closed. So I wandered around trying to find a place in the sun, or with heat lamps, to have coffee and cornetto. I came to the market hall where we had food yesterday and stopped there. 3.20€ for a coffee and a roll!

    I noticed that my phone was not using data, even though I had 4 bars. When I got back to the hotel, the wifi worked, but no mobile data. I ended up spending the next hour on the phone with AT&T, trying to figure out the problem. No luck. So, I do not have mobile data now. 😞    Leer más

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