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Emilia Romagna 2023

November - December 2023
I'm here for the food! Read more
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  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 3

    Cercando nel Castello

    November 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    The man at the hotel (Walter?) recommended I go to Castello tonight. I was a long walk from the hotel - in Venice terms, especially with my propensity to get lost! I had to put known landmarks in my phone since most of the places did not come up in maps. It took many wrong turns, but I found them!

    Bar Al Canton -- Spritz con Luxardo Bitter Bianco 3.50€
    Alla Scuola-- zucchini with tuna, stuffed cuttlefish, polenta topped with shrimp 15€
    Barcaro Risorto-- crostini with cod, limoncello spritz 10€
    Bacaro Magna Bevi Tasi-- "Spicy meat" crostini, Hugo Spritz 9.50€
    Harry's Bar-- Peach Spritz 22€!!!

    Okay the last one was a bellini...

    So, I had my one over-priced drink at Harry's Bar. It was a small place, with a bar that sat 8 or so people. The waiters were all in white jackets with black bow ties. Very snooty. At the bar I met a couple from England, who I closed the place down with. Alison and John were from SW England, but she has family in Atlanta. We talked politics, travel, and relationships. There was a lot of hugging.

    I arrived home around 11:30pm and fell into bed.    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 4

    A Presto Venezia

    November 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    I walked.36,668 steps yesterday...so I slept until 8:30. Honestly, I'd be okay with <10k today!

    I did the Italian breakfast again today. Since I'm not hungry, it's not worth the extra 7€. Afterwards, I took my time packing up. I ended up checking out at 11 on the dot.

    Using the backpack straps on my suitcase, I walked, very slowly, to the St Angelo vaporetto stop. It seemed closer than San Marco, plus it was less time on the boat. A Spanish speaking woman asked me for help finding her hotel on her phone. I was not much help. Even after that, I caught an earlier boat than I imagined I would. On the bus, I tried to soak it all in. It is a beautiful, sunny day and the Grand Canal was beautiful. Watching the gondolas, water taxis, delivery boats, etc is magical. I spoke to a woman from Melbourne who was spending 5 days in La Serenissima.    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 4

    Falafel in Ferrara

    November 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    I missed my train to Ravenna by about a minute. I actually got on the wrong train but had the notion to ask a conductor. I knew an 8 minute connection would be tight. I started to freak out a bit on the train, but what is an extra hour in Ferrara?!?

    After checking with the agent at the station, who told me that I could use my ticket for the next train, I saw a park across the street. In the park was a falafel place. Why not? I must say, it is delicious! Better than hanging out in the station...

    Almost time to go!    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 4

    Casa Masoli

    November 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    The walk to the hotel was not bad. Flat and not too many turns. The B&B is in a nondescript building, but inside, it is like a small palace. Aurelia greeted me--she didn't speak much English, so she was happy I understood Italian. She gave me a list of restaurants and a map and took me to the room. My jaw dropped to the floor when I saw it.

    First of all, it looks like a room in a palazzo. Second, the space is bigger than my whole house! It has a tub and a shower, plus toilet and bidet. And two sinks. There's also an espresso maker and mini fridge. There are two seating areas. I feel the need to entertain...

    After unpacking a bit, I headed out for a bottle of wine. I was headed for a wine store I found online, but Aurelia said there was a place closer, with a Coop store. It turned out to be an enormous food hall--Mercato Coperto.

    There was a wine bar and some food stalls which were closed.ar the time. I wandered around the grocery store for a bit and picked a bottle of white that looked good.

    Back at the room, I rested with some wine before dinner.    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 4

    Osteria Passatelli

    November 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    There were three restaurants that Aurelia recommended, and I picked Osteria Passatelli. It was a big place, and there was a band setting up on stage. Honestly, I was not in the mood for a band. Then I saw it was a cover band. Hmmm...

    The menu was quite extensive, and I was quite hungry. It took me a long time to pick something. I settled on a carafe of white wine, a mixed salad, and the roasted coniglio (bunny) with roasted potatoes. I spoke briefly with a woman at the next table, who was curious about the English speaker.

    The order of food here is salad after main meal--it always throws me. The rabbit was delicious--it almost tasted like turkey. It was Thanksgiving, after all! The salad was a mix of radicchio, bib lettuce, tomatoes, and shredded carrots. Mostly shredded carrots!

    The band didn't start until 10 pm, and it was after 9 pm. I was exhausted but started to think I could make a little bit of the show.

    The band started at about 9:45pm and it was fun. They had a lead singer who looked like Freddy Mercury, but the rest of the guys were just old musicians. It was interesting to listen to since they were Italian and sometimes I couldn't understand their English in the songs. As they continued to play, people started to dance a bit. I was singing along with the songs that I knew. At one point a younger woman pulled me up to dance. "Crazy Little Thing Called Love?" Anyway, I stayed the whole show !

    I got home around midnight and was too wound up to sleep!    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 5

    Mosaic tour

    November 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    I slept until 9 am. because I wanted some breakfast, which closed at 10 am. I didn't sleep great, but I need to get a somewhat early start because the museums/churches close by 3 or 4 pm. I had some cold cuts and a cappuccino for breakfast and talked to Aurelia a bit.

    I headed out around 11 am. and found the first stop. I bought a ticket for all the main places which cost 12.50€.

    Basilica di San Vitale
    Mausoleum of Galla Placidia
    Baptistry of Neoniano
    Archbishop Museum and Chapel of Saint Andrea
    Basilica of Saint Apollinare Nuovo

    All but the Archbishop Museum had a lot of mosaics. Actually, even that had a small chapel. I was going to go into details for each, but honestly, they all started to look alike after a while! The mausoleums were beautiful and small. The last place was really beautiful, with long mosaics along both walls of saints--"Guys" on one side, "Dolls" on the other.

    The sites were all pretty close, with 2 in one place and another 2 in another. The last place was alone. The mausoleums had a timed entrance because they were so small.

    Before I reached the last church, I walked past Dante's tomb, house, museum, etc. Apparently, he lived in Ravenna after he was exiled from Florence. If I ever read the "Divine Comedy," I will come back and see all of this. I also tried to visit another church that had a water filled crypt, but it was closed for another 1/2 hour. I was sort of "churched out" anyway.

    So I went back to the B&B and rested. It was about 3 pm, and I wanted to nap. But instead, I pulled one of the big armchairs in front of the TV and watched NCIS LA. (I find I watch shows that I never watch at home, only because they are in English).    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 5

    Osteria dal Tempo Perso

    November 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 46 °F

    At about 6 pm, I started thinking about dinner. I always forget that on Friday and Saturday nights, it is hard to get a table. I wasn't that hungry (even though I hadn't eaten since breakfast!) and considered skipping dinner or going to the market for some prosciutto and cheese to bring back to the room. But I decided to go for it. I figured if I arrived when they opened, there might be a chance.

    There were two places that interested me. I walked past the first at 6:50, and it looked good. 2nd was still closed, but I waited at the door until 7 pm. I asked for a table for one and told them I would not stay long. I knew there might be a late reservation, and I could have the table until then. Bingo! I had to promise to be out by 9 pm, which was fine with me.

    They had a tasting menu for 55€, which I chose. I also ordered a 1/2 bottle of wine--Albina, which is a local white grape. There was a mixed group of women next to me--one German, one Lithuanian, and one Italian. We spoke a little, and I wanted to know how they met. But the Italian wasn't into talking to me, so I minded my own business... Back to the food! It started with an amuse bouche of some sort of beet cream. Next was a carpaccio of amberjack. (This was the only course that fell flat). The pumpkin ravioli with shrimp and tomato was great. My favorites were the shrimp wrapped in some sort of crunchy "strings" and the crocker fish. I had an amaro with dessert-it was like a bay leaf amaro I had in Portland. It was all worth the euros!

    I was out by 9pm, and headed home. It was cold out, but it felt good. There was a cocktail bar across the street from the B&B and I decided to stop in. It's called Fargo and they serve a little food...TexMex! Very strange to see guacamole in Italy. I had a negroni, paid and went across the street to bed.

    As I was getting ready for bed, I realized that I forgot my purse at the bar. Panic! I literally fell out of the building as I ran back to the bar. They had it for me...phew! That would have been a disaster. My passport wasn't in it at least...

    With the adrenaline rush, I was wound up and decided to use the giant marble tub in the bathroom. The water never really got hot, but it still felt great. I was in bed around 11pm.    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 6

    Last morning in Ravenna

    November 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

    I slept pretty well and got out of bed at 7:30. After putting in my contacts and getting dressed, I went to breakfast. This morning, I opted for eggs and bacon. I also had some cheese and a really delicious little pistachio cake, along with my cappuccino.

    Back in the room, I had about an hour to pack. I finished my ablutions and got everything in order. Check out was at 10 am , and I was in the lobby by 10:05. Since I can't check in to my hotel in Bologna until 2pm, I didn't want to leave town quite yet. I checked out and left my bags at he B&B.

    My first order of business was to find some lip balm. Mine fell apart at some point, and it is a necessity in winter! The Coop in the market had some. I wandered around a bit and tried to find a bottle of the amaro I had last night, but no luck.

    I finally decided to go back to the market hall and have an espresso and relax until noon. I want to take the 12:44 train to Bologna, and I needed about 10 minutes to walk to the station . It was fun to people watch for a bit.

    I picked up my bags around 12:10 and made my way to the station. The walk wasn't too bad, and I arrived about 20 minutes before departure.

    I'm on the train now. It is just over an hour trip. Two cities are now completed 😔. Next stop, Bologna 😁 !    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 6

    Bologna, I'm here!

    November 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    The trip to Bologna was uneventful. I arrived right about 2pm, and found a taxi to my hotel--it wad a 20 minute walk, which was too far 😀. This is definitely a big city, and I didn't feel like dragging my suitcase anymore.

    I had read the reviews for the hotel and they said it was a bit of a dump. But it is very well located in the centro, for under $100 per night. I'm on the 5th floor, and thank god there's an elevator! The room is a monk's cell, with a twin size bed, a chair, a small closet area, and a small bathroom. The shower is really small--and includes a bidet. I started to unpack and then got a message from my friend, Sarah.

    Sarah and her new boyfriend and they were in Bologna for the weekend. We made plans to meet up before my Eatwith dinner. I got my act together then headed towards the tower area to meet them. We had a few glasses of wine, then they had to go to an exhibit they wanted to see, and I had to go to my dinner.    Read more

  • TravelerEmilia Romagna 2023
    Day 6

    Dinner at Frederico's

    November 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 45 °F

    The apartment with dinner was a 40-minute walk, and it took me 45...so I was late. I showed up, and they had already started. So I just poured myself a glass of wine and got into it. They were making pasta. I think Frederico, the host, made the dough a head of time. We just rolled it out. First, we made tortellini with ricotta, egg, and parmesan. We all got a chance to roll the dough and make a few tortellini. Then we rolled out dough for tagliatelli. The host had already made a ragu to go with the tagliatelli, but we watched him make a quick tomato sauce for the tortellini. We also watched him make some tiramisu.

    After all that, we moved to another room to eat. I learned more about the group, since I had missed any introductions. There was a family from San Diego--Mom, Dad, and daughter. The daughter is currently studying in Florence. Another couple was from Milan, but he's here studying medicine. Then there were 2 girls from LA. The food was good, the company even better. There was a lot of interesting conversations about the difference between the US and Italy.

    After the tiramisu, Frederico ushered us out and told us there was a taxi stand down the street. The family was heading back to Florence, so they left quickly.

    The rest of us hung out downstairs for a half an hour or so. The girls from LA were going in the same direction and we agreed to share a cab. Which was a great idea if there were any cabs! I discovered that Yvonne had sprained her ankle badly and was having a hard time walking. We couldn't find a taxi or a bus. We stopped at a falafel shop and I asked in Italian for help. Of course, there was someone whose English was better than mine... He pointed out the taxi stand, but there were no taxis. Finally a bus came and we all took that. They didn't have any 2€ coins, so paid for all of us. Haley gave me all her change, which was more than 4€!

    I missed my stop and got off and went to meet Sarah in the center. After some confusion, we found each other and found a place to have a drink. At around midnight, we said goodnight. O walked the 10 minutes to my room and went to bed!    Read more

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