Una aventura de 11 días de Jcrieff Leer más
  • 35huellas
  • 3países
  • 11días
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  • 13,5kmillas
  • 12,0kmillas
  • Día 7

    Un Momento in Bari

    7 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Overall, it was about an hour. I had to change trains and train stations to get to the airport. Bari is more like Rome than Brindisi. Very loud and busy. All I got to see was the walk across the street, so what do I know!

    The train showed up early, and I found a seat. At first, I wasn't sure I was on the right train. This trip took about 20 minutes, and the train was much nicer than the Leonardo Express trains. Then it was trying to get to the car rental place...
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  • Día 7

    On the Road Again

    7 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    I had to run the maze of the station to the airport. It took a while to find the car rental place. I rented from Enterprise, but when I checked my information, it was under another name. The sign in process went quickly, but then I had to walk 500 meters to get to the car. I have a Fiat 500X, so it's bigger than I thought it would be.

    Driving to Rutigluano was fine--a little crazy, but I actually did not get lost!
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  • Día 7

    Masseria Agriturismo Lama San Giorgio

    7 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It took about a half hour to get here, mostly on the highway. But there was construction on the local road. This is definitely an agricultural area. What I thought was a big hotel was a grain elevator!

    Down the dirt road to get here, I was getting nervous that it was going to be a weird stay. But as I approached the main house, I knew it would be okay. It's a big building where there are rooms and the meals. I am looking forward to eating dinner here as well as having a proper breakfast!

    My room is not in the main building, but in an addition by the pool. They have built rooms around a central area filled with olive trees. The rooms have glass doors on both ends, but no other windows. It is a beautiful room with a queen size bed and a twin. The bathroom has a tub with a shower head but no shower. I am taking a bath tonight!

    There was also a complimentary bottle of bubbles in the fridge. I will enjoy that this evening! Dinner is from 7:45 to 9:30pm. I can arrive any time.

    Time to explore!
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  • Día 7

    Pogliano al Mare

    7 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    It took about 40 minutes to arrive here from the Masseria. There was more construction, but it wasn't too bad. I saw this town from the train and wanted to see it.

    I had to park a ways out, but it is still a nice day. I walked by a gelato place for only my 2nd of the trip. Pistachio and Pasticcio. Delicious. I wandered down what is probably the main drag in the summer. This town is a bit more hopping than the ones yesterday. But still, many things aren't open. I finally decided to have a spritz and then walked around a bit more before the drive home.Leer más

  • Día 7

    First night at Lama San Giorgio

    7 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    I got back to the room at about 5:30pm, after getting turned around going through Rutigliano. Back to my normal self...

    Dinner didn't start until 7:45, so I lounged in bed for awhile, finally deciding to take a bath. I'm glad I thought of it early, because the water came out really slow. I think it took 45 minutes to fill. It is a large tub with jets. There's no shower, but it has a handheld shower that I could use to wash my hair. I turned on the jets and had a wonderful soak. Then I washed my hair--the first time since I arrived. The showers are just too small--I can barely bathe in them!

    I got out of the tub and realized 2 things. #1 Water had leaked from the tub and was all over the floor. It was definitely not from splashing out. #2 I did not know how to pull the plug and drain it! Oh well, it seemed like a problem for later...

    Dinner was a 2 minute walk from my room, in the big house. I got to choose 2 items off the menu along with a dessert. I am guessing that I will pay for the wine when I check out. I had artichoke on a bed of some sort of creamy polenta. It was heavenly! I chose a steak for the main course. It was good but not authentic to the region. For dessert I had a decadent chocolate cream. Then it was time for bed!
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  • Día 8

    Monopoli

    8 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    After a delicious breakfast of cold cuts and cheese...FINALLY! I packed up to go to Monopoli and Alberobello. It was sunny and almost warm today. It took about 45 minutes to get there, and the drive was beautiful.

    I tried to find a place to park near the centro, and almost ended up in it. Bad idea. Finally, I found a spot on a square just outside the historic area.

    It was busier than the other seaside towns I've visited, but still pretty quiet. I walked around aimlessly for about an hour. There was a castle, lots of fishermen, and whitewashed buildings everywhere. I stopped at a place and bought some "fritto misto", which turned out to be arancini. I also got some sort of panini. Both for later, but don't think the arancini will last long!

    After about 2 hours I decided it was time to leave. Next stop--Alberobello.

    (Spoiler alert...the arancini barely made it out of Monopoli)
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  • Día 8

    Alberobello--The Village of my Dreams

    8 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I tried to name this Alberobello--The Village of my Puglian Dreams, but apparently, there is a character limit. This was the one place I wanted to see when I was planning a trip to Puglia. Originally, I planned to stay here, but realized that it would be better to day trip since a car would have been a pain.

    I parked at the first lot that seemed close. There was a closer one I saw as I was walking in. At first, I thought that there were only a few trulli, but as I got closer...wow.

    It was 1 pm, and I was a bit hungry. Since I was driving, I figured I should have my lunch with wine early. (Lunch without is for barbarians) I found a place on a piazza just outside of the trulli zone and had a salad with burrata and capocollo. And wine.

    After lunch, I began exploring. The historic area is up a hill, and all the houses are trulli. Some have symbols painted on them. I stopped to look at a sign with descriptions and was roped into a jewelry shop. All good. I now have a pendant with the symbol for Mercury, which rules Gemini. A nice souvenir from this trip.

    My time was almost up at the parking lot, so I walked back and moved my car to the closer one. Another 2€ for an hour was worth it. A car in front of a shop made me stop and this place looked like the real deal. It was for tourists, but the owner didn't mess around. It was a food museum, or exhibit, but there were signs all over--No Foto. 🚫 . I bought some olive oil for me, a bottle of limoncello for Kristen, some pepper oil for Tram, and a pistachio spread for Karen. Then I asked if I could take a photo. No problem! The entire transition was in Italian.

    Sadly, it was time to go. Plus, I had a big bag of food to carry! I got back to the car and headed home.
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  • Día 8

    I Can't Believe I Ate the Whole Thing!

    8 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Dinner was great last night but very filling. I will start with the rest of my day to that point. The drive home was uneventful,--I think I only got turned around once going through Putignano or Turi. The towns always mess me up!

    I arrived back at the masseria at about 4;30pm. I had bought a bottle of wine in Alberobello and went to the reception to get a corkscrew. She asked if I wanted a glass, but there were glasses yesterday. Of course there weren't any when I got to the room. So I walked back and she gave me two.

    I enjoy some of the wine on the back patio of my room. I think it's for smokers, but it was a nice respite. It started to get cold, so I went back inside and watched an episode of The Mentalist in Italian.

    I walked to the restaurant at 7:30pm. There was a beautiful full moon which pictures didn't do justice to. In the restaurant, I sat at my table #21, and looked at the menu. Apparently it changes every day. Today I ordered Carbonara alla Masseria, which had delicious mushrooms in some sort of cream sauce. For my secondi, I had a veal steak, topped with ground pistachios. I ate about 3/4 of this enormous steak. Dessert was tiramisu. I was SO full!

    I waddled home and promptly fell asleep!
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  • Día 9

    Matera

    9 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    This morning at breakfast, I checked my options for getting to Rome tomorrow. I decided to take the train rather than fly for a few reasons. Flights were over $200, and 1st class train was 89€. My luggage will be very heavy and checking it would cost more. And the train schedule worked out perfectly. The plane got me to FCO at about the same time. This way, I can take my time packing up, check out at 10:30am, and comfortably get to the train on time. I will arrive in Rome at about 4:30pm. From there, I can check my bags somewhere and explore, or just go straight to the hotel. A coworker will be in Rome tomorrow, and we may try to meet up for a drink.

    Back to my day. I left around 10am. It was a little over an hour to Matera. The drive was mostly on Strada Provinciale, or SP-- "sheep poop" roads. Some were pretty narrow, and meeting a truck on the road was a bit dicey! But I have learned that driving in Italy is a dance. Everyone tries to dance to the same music. Non c'e un problema!

    I arrived in Matera a little after 11am. The next challenge was figuring out where the historic area was. A bigger challenge was finding a place to park! I parked near the castle, which surprisingly looked free. The signs mentioned ZTL. I looked it up, and it means Zona Traffico Limitato. Or, basically, parking for residents only. I went back and looked up parking lots, and found one reasonably close to Sassi, which is the old town. I finally found one and left my car there.

    At first, I didn't understand what the big deal was about this place. It seemed like just another hill town. But the dwellings are all built on top of each other in a mish-mash sort of way. It's even more of a maze than most hill towns. I wandered around for about 45 minutes, then found a place for lunch. I wasn't that hungry after last night, but I wanted to sit. I had a light-on-the-basil caprese salad and a glass of rosè. I stayed for quite a long while to enjoy the view!

    I continued to poke around and went up and down a million stairs. There was a "newer" church, from the 1600s, next to an older one that was carved out of the rock. At the overlook into a gorge, I saw that there were hiking trails to the caves on the other size. Not sure how to get over there, but it's not like I was going to hike today!

    I finally started making my way out and stopped for a gelato--mandarin with basil and lemon. I ate that while I was walking to the parking garage. It only cost 4.50€, which was a deal!

    I tried to drive to the overlook on the other side of the gorge. I got to the top, but it seemed like I had to walk quite a way to the overlook. Pass.

    It took about an hour to get back here. I stopped for gas at the station close to the Masseria. That will be fine for tomorrow. 57€! I guess that's pretty good for 3 days of driving.

    I'm now relaxing by the pool, watching the sunset. I've got 3 hours until dinner!
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  • Día 9

    Last night at Masseria Lama San Giorgio

    9 de marzo de 2023, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I got back to the Masseria, and the weather was still nice out. I decided to pour myself some wine and head to the pool. I also put my story on, so I wore it at least once!

    After the sun went down, I went to my room to rest for a while before dinner. I also started to pack up some things I won't wear again this trip. And I put together for tomorrow and the way home.

    Dinner was early--I was there at 7:30pm. My table was back to the normal one. The guy next to me was watching videos of machines and then soccer, with the sound turned up. I also had a new waiter, who spoke to me in English.

    I had the antipasto, which was a ball of smoked mozzarella, wrapped in prosciutto. There was grilled zucchini and all was.on a bed of mashed potatoes with saffron. And it was topped with crispy capocollo. So good!

    For the main dish, I had gnocchi stuffed with spinach with a cheesy tomato sauce. It was good, but not as awesome as last night's pasts.

    My dessert was called "Sporcamuss". It was a lemony cream between two layers of puff pastry. The literal translation is, "dirty mouth," because the powdered sugar goes everywhere. It was great with my limoncello!

    The dining room was definitely livelier than it has been. A family who might have been Israeli was giving the waiter a run for his money. It was sometimes funny and at other times painful to watch. The woman made a big deal about being vegetarian. But then ordered fish. Turns out no red meat is vegetarian. The adult son was loud, too.

    It was time to go to bed and get a good night's rest for tomorrow!
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