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Kambodsja
Preaek Tuek Chhu

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    • ReisendeThailand
      Dag 75–79

      Kampot, Kambodscha

      11. februar, Kambodsja ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      Kampot ist eine Stadt mit ca. 50.000 Einwohnern im Süden des Landes, ungefähr 30 km von der vietnamesischen Grenze entfernt. Mit dem Golf von Siam ist sie durch das 5 km lange versandete Delta des Preaek Tuek Chhu verbunden. Wenige Kilometer nordwestlich liegen die Ausläufer der Elefantenberge mit dem Bokor-Nationalpark. Die Umgebung Kampots ist bekannt für die Produktion von Pfeffer. Daneben gilt die Gegend als Hauptproduzent von Durian. Eine lebhafte Stadt mit schönen Häuser aus der Kolonialzeit, vielen Lokalen und Märkten. Die Menschen sind freundlich und nicht aufdringlich wie in Siem Reap. Ein beliebtes Ziel für die LGBTQ community. Auch der Sextourismus scheint zuzunehmen - nicht alle der älteren Männer hier sind schwul - und haben ganz junge Frauen an ihrer Seite.
      Der Nachbarort Kep liegt am Golf von Thailand und war bereits zur französischen Kolonialzeit ein beliebter Badeort (Kep Sur Mer). Mir hat der einzige Strand an dem man baden kann, nicht gefallen. Er ist dreckig wie überall in Kambodscha und direkt an der Promenade, wo es von Verkaufsständen und stinkenden Mülltonnen nur so wimmelt. Es ist nicht üblich, sich in den Sand zu legen, es gibt nur Plastiksessel mit einem Sonnenschirm. Auch unzählige überdachte Hütten mit Hängematten. Die Einheimischen scheinen das zu lieben. Der crab market hingegen war ein Erlebnis. Und ich habe selten so gut und wirklich frisch gegessen...      Les mer

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    • ReisendeVietnam und Kambodscha
      Dag 19

      Kampot

      7. mars, Kambodsja ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      Mittwoch sind wir mit dem Zug nach Kampot gefahren. Hier bleiben wir nur 2 Tage bevor wir mit dem Bus und der Fähre Freitag weiter auf die Insel Koh Rong reisen.
      Wir haben hier eine Pfefferfarm besichtigt, da Kampot für seinen Pfeffer international bekannt ist.
      Außerdem haben wir hier eine nette Skybar entdeckt, wo es sehr gute Cocktails gibt.      Les mer

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    • ReisendeGut
      Dag 210

      Kartoffelsuppe mit Bockwurst

      20. april, Kambodsja ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

      Nach langer Busfahrt ermüdet stellen wir unsere Rucksäcke vor dem Monica Guesthouse ab. Vielleicht hätte uns der Name bei der Auswahl stutzig machen sollen. So erwartet uns ein Sachse aus Meissen, der gerade vier ältere weiße Männer aus Sachsen bewirtet, während aus den Lautsprechern Musik der 70er und frühen 80er Jahre erschallt, gefühlt alle schon, so gut die Songs gewesen sein mögen, zu oft gehört. An der Eingangstür wird Kartoffelsuppe mit Bockwurst und Thüringer Bratwürste angeboten. Im Hintergrund steht ein Riesenbildschirm, auf dem die Männer, na was, natürlich Bundesliga heute anschauen wollen. Alle diese Männer entsprachen den Klischees, die man haben kann über 60jährige weiße Männer aus Deutschland...
      Das Frühstück mit Leberwurst und Schinken bewirkte dementsprechend wenig Freude bei Lorin, aber auch ich hatte mir den Aufenthalt in Kampot anders vorgestellt. Aber es half ja nichts, wir bestellten ein Tuktuk in die Stadt, die Hitze umfing uns und wir fanden erst etwas bessere Laune, als wir in einem Kaffeeshop einen doppelten Espresso für mich und ein paar Mangoshakes bestellten, zudem miteinander Stechen spielten, bevor wir uns unterhalb eines kleinen Goldfischaquariums heimischer Zeitungslektüre zuwandten.

      Und dann...nachdem wir das Bockwurst-Schild hinter uns gelassen hatten, gingen wir in den dritten Stock über glänzende Treppenstufen hinauf, die selbst meine Mutter als sauber angesehen hätte, und öffneten die Tür zu einem großen Zimmer, dessen eine Wand hinaus zu den Bergen nur Fenster und davor einen Balkon aufwies. So sauber, so großzügig, wie man es sich kaum hätte erträumen können. So kann der erste Eindruck täuschen      Les mer

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    • ReisendeKAMBOSCHA & THAILAND
      Dag 21

      Da wo der Pfeffer wächst

      1. desember 2023, Kambodsja ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Heute ging es in die Umgebung von Kampot. Bokor Hill war im Nebel. Dafür ging es zur Pfefferplantage "La Plantation" mit Führung und Verkostung...und Einkauf! Auf dem Rückweg noch an den Salzfeldern Halt gemacht.Les mer

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    • ReisendeVoyage Asie-du-Sud-Est
      Dag 45

      Jour 44 - Arrivée à Kampot

      10. mai, Kambodsja ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      Ce matin, départ de Koh Rong Sanloem. C'en est fini des îles du sud du Cambodge. Je prends un bateau de Koh Rong Sanloem à Sihanoukville. Je prends ensuite un train direction Kampot.

      Il faut savoir que les Cambodgiens utilisent le klaxon comme nous utiliserions un clignotant. Le klaxon permet à un véhicule de signaler sa présence. C'est utilisé par les tuk-tuk, les voitures, les scooters mais aussi les trains ! 🚂

      Alors que je dors paisiblement dans le train, me voilà réveillé par des gouttes d'eau. Il pleut littéralement dans le train ! Il faudra repasser pour l'étanchéité. Dans les derniers kilomètres, je mets fin à ma sieste pour admirer les jolis paysages à travers la fenêtre du train.

      Une fois arrivé à la gare de Kampot, je refuse un tuk-tuk pour rejoindre mon hostel qui se trouve à 40min à pied. À mi-parcours, il se met à pleuvoir des cordes. Des Cambodgiens me proposent gentiment de me réfugier chez eux et laisser passer les averses. Ce que j'accepte. C'est ça aussi les joies de la saison des pluies ! ⛈️

      La pluie s'étant calmée, je repars. J'atteins enfin mon hostel. Je m'enregistre et je pars manger dans un très bon restaurant indien. Je marche ensuite un peu pour découvrir la ville de Kampot de nuit. Et puis je rentre à l'hostel me coucher.      Les mer

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    • Tim's TravelsThailand, Cambodia, Singapore
      Dag 23

      Day 22 - It rains, it shines.

      4. juli, Kambodsja ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      15:45
      I sleep MUCH better, and feel actually refreshed when I wake. The weather on the other hand, is deep in the doldrums. I can hear the sound of the rain pounding down, even over the A/C in my room. There’s some low, grumbling thunder in the distance, which fairly quickly becomes loud, banging thunder nearby. We’re both packed up and checked out by 09:15, and on the pier waiting for our 09:30 boat. The rain, if anything, intensifies. There’s a small hut under which most of the passengers are cowering. Felix and I brave the rain. Initially. 09:30 comes and goes, and some dude who looks like he might have something to do with the boat company says it’ll be late, maybe 10-15 minutes. It ultimately arrives over 20 minutes late, by which time Felix and I have joined the cowering crowds. We finally leave around 10:00. Our connecting bus departs at 11:00, and the boat ride is due to take 45 minutes. Could be sketchy.

      Needn’t have worried. The boat is substantially faster than the one we took over a few days ago. It hoons along, and we dock just after 10:30. We grab our bags, have a very quick pitstop at 7/11 and the bathroom, and head for the bus office. Well, REALLY needn’t have worried. Our bus is NOT at 11:00. That’s the Phnom Penh bus. Ours is at 11:30. We park at a nearby café for a cold drink.

      Getting underway at 11:30, it’s soon evident that this bus isn’t quite as comfy as some of our previous chariots. As we drive through a heavy rain storm, it starts to leak on my shoulder. I spot several other places where water is leaking. How reassuring. About an hour out of Sihanoukville, we join a ‘road’ that is to be our companion for most of the remainder of the trip. It’s a washboard. A van shaking, filling rattling, bladder bouncing washboard. It very much reminds me of some of less roady roads in Africa. It’s quite exhausting. Happily, our driver ranks relatively low on the loony scale. I watch a movie, and soon enough, we’re arriving into Kampot.

      Our hotel is beautiful. Just outside the city centre, with a beautiful pool, and some amazing gardens. The rooms looks close to brand new, are very comfy and well appointed. Not a bad way to spend a few days. We have a cooling dip, sit very briefly in the blazing sunshine, make some vague plans to eat seafood later, and I retire to my room, with strong nap intentions.

      22:15
      BANGING nap. I set an alarm for 18:00, and it wakes me up. I turn it off, roll over and go straight back to sleep. Unheard of. Fortunately, I wake up about 35 minutes later. Felix and I head out at 19:30, and aim for downtown Kampot. We’re both ready for a seafood feast, so head to Kampot’s best reviewed pheeesh restaurant - the aptly named Kampot Seafood. An avalanche of food arrives. I’ve barely eaten the past couple of days, but am still slightly overwhelmed. I start with a seabass ceviché - spanking fresh seabass, plenty of citrus, some mango for sweetness. Delicious. Felix has a seabass carpaccio with Kampot green pepper. We both expect the pepper to challenge the flavour of the fish, but it works perfectly. We each have a seafood platter for our main course. Mine includes slipper lobster, some squid and some swordfish. Felix’s is a festival of shellfish - pippies, mussels, scallops, razor clams and some oysters. Just sensational. My swordfish is a teensy bit overcooked, but otherwise, everything is cooked perfectly, and served with some delicious dipping sauces. I find myself guessing that this will become our most expensive meal of the trip, but the damage is a shade over $50. Not cheap by any Cambodian measure, but it feels like a steal.

      Walking back to our hotel, we pass a bar where a westerner that looks to be in his 60s or 70s sat surrounded by local Khmer girls, the average age of whom seems to be 17. We spend the 12 minute walk back to Emerald Residence discussing the various rights and wrongs, ethical or otherwise, of huge age gaps in relationships. A jaunty conversational topic with which to draw our day to a close.      Les mer

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    • Tim's TravelsThailand, Cambodia, Singapore
      Dag 24

      Day 23 - Pick a peck of pepper

      5. juli, Kambodsja ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

      16:00
      There’s an insane electrical storm around 03:30 which wakes me up. It sounds like it’s right outside my terrace door. I pop my head out to check, and yes - it’s right outside my terrace door. Some incredibly loud thunder, some incredibly bright lightning. After an hour, I decide to try and get back to sleep. It doesn’t happen. The thunder is SO loud that it drowns out the sound of my headphones. The lightning is SO bright that I can sense the change through my eyelids. I cover my head with a pillow. It blocks out the light and thunder, which is great. It stymies my ability to breath, which is less so. I finally drift off again around 05:30 when the storm starts to subside, and sleep through to my 09:00 alarm.

      The rain has cleared, and there’s a steamy atmosphere in the air. Felix and I head out at 11:00 to La Plantation, a Kampot Pepper farm a half hour away. We pass some roadworks, which turn out to be laying of a new road. It looks to be happening very quickly. The contraflow is a touch fucked though. The scenery we drive through is very, very pretty. We arrive to the farm, and I’m minded that it’s something of a cross between a ramshackle citrus farm I’ve visited in South Africa, and a smart vineyard in, oh - I dunno, probably South Africa as well. We set off on a free tour of the farm, and learn more than we probably ever thought we’d know about pepper - different types, different colours, different fertiliser strategies. We meet some fresh lemongrass, and learn the difference between sun drying and mechanical drying. At the end of the tour, we have a tasting of 7 different types of pepper, none of which are boring. The dried red pepper is brilliant, the salted green peppercorns sensational. The long-pepper leather (not really leather) is a headfuck, but the salted black long pepper takes the prize.

      We head down the hill for some lunch, where we find a short but compelling menu, and the offer of a glass of rosé, upon which I seize. We share a green mango salad, dressed with some green Kampot Pepper - which is both understated and full-on. Felix has some fried rice, and I have perhaps my best Amok of our time in Cambodia, which is spiked with red long pepper. Awesome. After lunch, we return to the shop, and I buy more pepper than I was necessarily thinking i would buy. Oh, and some sauces. I’m not 100% sure I’m supposed to take them into Singapore, or back to the UK, but we’ll cross that bridge when it becomes a bridge.

      Back at the hotel, we’ve earnt an afternoon dip. Soon, the clouds darken and the wind whips up. There’s rain brewing, and we scurry to our rooms to rest/nap/cower.

      22:12
      We head out at 19:00. Neither of us napped in the end, but it’s been a pretty chilled afternoon nonetheless. We head to Bistro 23 - a very French restaurant in the French Quarter. The food is staggeringly good. I have a gin and beetroot cured barracuda dish with red Kampot Pepper. It’s one of the nicest things I can remember eating in quite a while. Felix has a chicken liver parfait which is an excellent example of the genre. Our mains are also both amazing. Pork belly for me, beef cheek for Felix. We’re both acutely aware that eating this kind of European bistro food in the heart of Cambodia is a bit ridiculous, but the food is ridiculously good, so who gives a fuck? The crackling on the pork belly is in my top 3 pork belly cracklings of all time. Just sublime. Felix somehow manages a scoop of mango sorbet for dessert, and we leave less than £50 lighter. It’s a relatively pricy meal for Cambodia, but feels like incredible value.

      We stop on the way home at The Green Room - described by Google as a ‘pub.’ Arriving, it’s easy to see why - there’s a pub quiz in full flow, chaired by a chap wearing an England football top. 90s Indie bands on the jukebox, winner stays on the pool table, 5 or 6 men drinking alone on high stools at the bar - most or all of whom we suspect are called Dudley. We play some fairly atrocious darts, listen to some fairly awesome music, and are accosted by the chap in the England shirt after he’s finished the quiz. His name’s Alan, he runs the bar, and he moved to Cambodia 6 years ago. He regales us with some not very interesting stories, and eventually leaves us alone. We decide to call it a night. I’ve got an early start to watch Tories cry, and Felix feels like he’s ready for a loooooong sleep. Bonne nuit!      Les mer

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    • Tim's TravelsThailand, Cambodia, Singapore
      Dag 24

      Day 24 - Spooky ass weird mountain

      5. juli, Kambodsja ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      16:30
      What a sensational day! I awake to the exit poll prediction telling me that the Labour Party have won the General Election back home, and will have a huge majority. The Tories aren’t going to be quite as down and out as I’d have perhaps liked, but they’ve been humiliated. I sit down with a coffee to watch more of the results come in. I cheer out loud when Shapps goes. I laugh to myself when Mordaunt loses. I do a little dance when Fabricant is toast. It’s honestly a brilliant way to start the day. As I go to leave my room to head out with Felix, Rees-Mogg is dethroned. YESSSSSSS!

      Head out we do, aiming for Kep Sur Mer, and the famous seafood market there. Exiting the car, we’re met by a wall of heat. It’s the first properly sunny day we’ve had for a few days, and it’s so hot it’s prickling to my skin. Walking through the market is a trip. There are amazing displays of raw, and in some cases, live food. None of it is refrigerated. It doesn’t smell bad though, which indicates to me that it is incredibly fresh. There are stalls selling skewers of many different types of fish - squid, Kingfish, tiny crabs, seabass, and a bunch we don’t recognise. There are countless live crabs, for which the market is most famous. Deeper into the market, there are spice shops, selling ground and whole spices, along with bags of Kampot Pepper. Felix guesses (and he’s probably right) that these will cost a fraction of what we paid at the plantation yesterday. Felix buys a small octopus on a stick. It’s delicious. We stop for a cold drink by the water’s edge, where a wonderfully cooling breeze whips off the ocean. Neither of us is particularly hungry after our protein fest last night, so we jump back in the car without lunch.

      Our next stop is Bokor mountain, the other side of Kampot. We’re still in the sunshine on the 75 minute drive over that way, but there are some grey clouds gathering around the mountain-top. As we turn off the main road, and into the National Park, there are monkeys everywhere. Some scatter from the road when our drivers leans on the horn, whilst others proverbially flip the bird. The drive to the summit is beautiful - the views down to the sea are breathtaking. We drive through some low lying cloud, and pause for breath at a massive white Buddha statue.

      We head on to a pitstop at a huge edifice of a hotel right in the middle of the National Park. It is deserted. It reminds us of the hotel in The Shining. Restaurant, empty. Kids’ play area, empty. Lobby, empty. There’s a café/bar in the reception area, so we grab a quick drink and use the bathroom. We head further up the mountain, past a very weird row of terraced houses that remind me of some of the crescent streets in Brighton. They are empty, and verging on dilapidated. Across the road from them is a part built warehouse. It’s utterly surreal. The weirdness is not helped by the continuing thickening of the cloud around us. The sensation of being in low cloud is quite different to fog, that’s more familiar to us. Firstly, it moves very differently - and you can sense it moving. Sometimes, you’ll very clearly see it moving. Secondly, once you’re in the thick of it, there is no visibility. I don’t mean visibility is limited - I mean there is NO visibility. The temple we’re headed for is shrouded in cloud when we arrive, but it’s shifting and changing around us. We head to the very top of the mountain, which has (on a clear day) the most incredible steep view down in the valley below. With the cloud where it is, we briefly see the valley floor, before it disappears from view again. It plays with the mind in an ultra cool way…

      22:30
      For our last dinner in Kampot, we head to a place run by one of the pepper farms not far from the city. I have a delightful cocktail featuring red pepper (as well as some gin). My starter of squid ink dumplings in a herby broth is stellar. It’s a kind of ravioli / Chinese dim-sum hybrid, and bloody lovely. Felix orders some Foie Gras, only to be told they’re out. He sulkily makes do with a delicious salmon and avocado tartare. My main is a duck breast, simply pan roasted with a Holy Basil and chilli dressing. Banging. Felix has his first Amok of our Cambodia stay, and we both agree it’s up there with the best. Properly tasty food.

      While we’re eating we reminisce and reflect on our time in Cambodia. Both of us have loved it, and would return. I have a sense it’s a country about to undergo extensive and rapid change. Maybe in 5 years time, maybe in 10 - but I suspect it’s going to look and feel very different in the not too distance future. Felix has been very taken with island life, and I’m quick to remind him that the peace and quiet of Koh Rong Sanloem isn’t necessarily guaranteed elsewhere. The closest equivalent I can draw in Thailand is Koh Tao, but even there, the pace of life was higher, the hustle/bustle were more prevalent. I’m sure there are islands both in the Gulf of Thailand and in the Andaman Sea that more closely align to his recent experience, but he’d have to seek them out.

      We’re not quite ready to call it a night, so stop at a bar called Rusty Keyhole, which we both agree sounds like a sex act for which you’d have to pay very top dollar. We play some ludicrously bad pool. I chat briefly to the Scottish guy behind the bar, and we compare stories of watching Tories losing earlier today.

      It’s been a really fucking good day.      Les mer

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    • Zoe BennforsCambodia
      Dag 8

      En Route Kampot

      13. mars 2017, Kambodsja ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      To finish off the homestay it was an early rise with a tour around the village to gain a better insight of how the locals led their lives and what went on day to day. At one of the homes there were the cutest puppies which were the centre of attention for a good 5 minutes.

      We didn't hang around however, as there was a lot of distance to be covered in order to get to our next stop, Kampot, home of the best pepper in the world. On the way we stopped at a market where they sold the usual fruits and then insects. Pushing myself out my comfort zone I tried a tarantula. Not being a spider lover I was surprised when it didn't taste half as bad as I thought it would but I can't hide the fact I couldn't bare to look at it when I ate it.

      Stopping half way for lunch at Phnom Penh, we finally arrived at our hotel in Kampot at 5.30pm, just in time for the sunset. The hotel is in a beautiful location along the river and provided the perfect spot to watch the sun go down with a cocktail.

      The day was finished with a well deserved dinner on the river at the hotel coupled with a long shower after being deprived of one at our homestay.      Les mer

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    • ReisendeAsien, Asien
      Dag 58

      Immer noch Kampot

      7. desember 2018, Kambodsja ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

      👣 zu Fuß den Fluss entlang, über die Brücke und nach 15 Minuten ist man auch schon "in der City", in den Straßen finden sich noch Häuser aus der französischen Kolonialzeit... vielleicht fühlen sich die vielen Franzosen deshalb hier so wohl... 🤔🤓
      Am Flussufer sind viele Restaurants und Bars in denen man auch eine Happy Special Pizza kaufen kann um einen ganz besonderen Eindruck von seiner Umgebung zu bekommen ;) ich aber bleibe lieber bei frisch gepressten Smoothies und Fried Rice - wenn man sich etwas abseits vom Flussufer bewegt, findet man auch günstigere Alternativen ;)
      Die Flusspromenade entlang bin ich zu einer gemütlichen Bar, als ich wieder im Begriff war zu gehen, zogen große schwarze Wolken auf. Keine zwei Meter später platschte es nur so runter. Ich konnte mich unter ein Zelt von einem Essensstand retten. 20 Minuten später, schien das gröbste vorbei zu sein, ich lief weiter, dann fing es aber wieder an. Nirgends konnte man sich unter stellen, ein paar Meter weiter, fand ich dann aber Zuflucht in einem Restaurant, patschnass und hungrig 😶🍲😍      Les mer

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