I was using the motto, Never Stop Exploring" before the North Face had it for a tagline. Exploring the world on foot is a shared passion for my life partner and wife Peg and myself. Read more California, United States of America
  • Day 24

    Miguel

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    Warning: HIPPA violation.

    Name: Miguel
    Age: 64.5 yrs
    Birthplace: Porto Portugal
    Current Resident: Germany (46+ yrs)
    Retired: Computer Programmer
    Husband, Father of 5, Grandfather of 5.
    Fun Fact: Only known Portuguese that hates olives.

    By now you have all met our friend Miguel. We met Miguel on the first day of our Francés Camino in the fall of 2022. We leaped frogged along the way for about two weeks together until, as natural circumstances happen on the Camino, he pulled ahead and we fell behind. We never ran into him again which made us really sad.
    Fast forward about 6 months later, Tom was able to make contact with him and reconnect. He had completed a few more Camino routes and mentioned that if we ever wanted to walk the Portuguese Camino to let him know because he would love to meet us in Porto and walk with us.
    Before we knew it, we were giving that idea some serious thought. We planned it on the calendar, purchased flights to Portugal and contacted Miguel who did the same. We were SO excited.

    It was late December or early January when Miguel let us know he had suffered a stroke and had spent the better part of a week in the hospital. He then was sent to a rehab facility in the Black Forest for extensive rehab to help him with his speech, walking, small motor skills and the overall strengthening of his right side. We kept in touch with encouraging emails and he kept apologizing for throwing a wrench in our plans. Our plans were solid, we were just so sad that they no longer involved Miguel. But he kept promising us he was working hard and at least going to meet us in Porto.

    About 3 weeks before our trip, Miguel still had not been cleared by the doctors to travel, let alone walk a Camino. But he insisted he was going to meet us.

    Well Miguel did meet us in Porto and was a great tour guide in his hometown. He then asked if he could walk a day or two of the Camino with us. I was a little nervous. As everyone who knows me knows, I lack the gift of caregiving and encouragement. The Camino is hard enough for me without worrying about Miguel’s possible limited abilities. But of course we could not deny him his request to walk with us.

    We started from the Cathedral in Porto at 7:30am on Friday April 12th. Miguel, not so secretly, had two €2 bus tickets in his pocket knowing at any time the first two days he could easily catch a bus back to the city if need be. And on we walked….

    Day 2, and on we walked….

    Over beers at the end of day 3, Miguel said, “this is the first day since December that I have not thought once about my health diagnosis or my rehab status”.

    And on we walked….

    Everyday after that we walked and laughed and enjoyed each other’s company and accomplishments.

    Miguel had put in long, hard hours in rehab to regain what he had lost. But what the Camino gave to him, what he was so sorely missing, was his confidence. We split off from Miguel two days before the end and took a slightly longer route. He was wanting to do a couple days alone without us, to restore his confidence even more. On April 26th he was waiting for us in Santiago having arrived the day before us. His smile said it all.

    Needless to say we adore this human and were humbled to share this journey with him.

    Buen Camino Miguel, or as the Portuguese say, Bom Caminho. And cheers to a long and healthy life! 🍻

    P.S. thank you for always giving me your share of the olives! ☺️
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  • Day 24

    Day in Santiago - Cathedral Rooftop

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today we slept in. It was like a Camino hangover. It had been raining for 24 hours straight with no sign of letting up. We had beat the rain to Santiago by about 45 minutes and mentioned over and over how lucky and grateful we were.

    We finally braved the rain to get something to eat and get our souvenir shopping done. We kept watching the weather app and took a chance there would be a break in the rain and purchased tickets for an afternoon roof top tour of the Cathedral. Then back to the apartment for a nap.

    Once again we had amazing weather luck and the rain held off for the tour. Wow! What an amazing tour it was. We did not understand a word, since it was all in Spanish, but the views were incredible and being that high on the cathedral roof was exhilarating to say the least. One last evening in Santiago as we have a glass of wine and wait for our favorite Italian restaurant to open for our last dinner here.

    It has been an amazing adventure. The Camino never disappoints.
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  • Day 23

    Day 15 - Final walk into Santiago

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Finishing a Camino totally embodies the sentiment “the thrill of victory and the agony of de-feet”

    It’s easy to be all hyped up when you finally enter the Cathedral Square in Santiago. You get caught up in the sound of bagpipes playing, people hugging, finishers trying to get their perfect picture and then running to the Compostela office to get their proof that they actually made it. And then once you’ve had your shower and a good meal (favorite Italian restaurant is in Santiago 😉) you hit a wall and feel like you could sleep for days. Plus you can’t even comprehend what it is you do tomorrow if you don’t have to set your alarm, pack a backpack and start walking for hours.

    Our route from the Cathedral in Porto to the Cathedral in Santiago on the Camino Portuguese Coastal route was roughly 300 kilometers since we added 2 more days doing the Spiritual Variant (and so glad we did).

    What an adventure it was! I always say “never again”, Tom and Miguel were already planning a guys Camino during our celebration meal. 🫤
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  • Day 22

    Day 14 - Vilanova de Arousa to Cruces

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today was different in every way. We slept in and woke up to the first cloudy day we’ve had. We had a leisurely breakfast, walked around town and took pictures. I read a book and Tom went for a longer stroll. We talked a long time to a chatty couple from Scotland and waited for our 12:45pm scheduled boat to take us up river as the skies grew darker by the minute.

    Our boat tour guide was very informative and even with his broken English we understood most of it. The minute we docked in Patron, the skies opened up and it poured on us for about 2 blocks until we could duck into a pub to wait out the rain and grab a quick pizza for lunch. Then off we started, at 3pm, for our day’s walk.

    We made it to our accommodations around 5:30 having put 6.8 miles behind us. Our goal was to shorten our walk into Santiago tomorrow. Hard to believe we have just one day left.
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  • Day 21

    Day 13 - Armenteira - Vilanova de Arousa

    April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After a great dinner at the Casa Rural B&B last night of garbanzo bean stew and fried artichokes followed by homemade coffee and herb liqueurs, we got 10 hours of sleep and woke up today to a light breakfast from our hosts. Today was our second day along the spiritual variant. I have to say if you’re a; nature lover, person of faith, enjoy architecture, crave fine foods and local wines, like a physical challenge or seek solitude, the spiritual route delivers. It is well worth the additional mileage and a couple extra days.

    For most of the day we walked along some form of water. It started with a series of cascading waterfalls then turned into a quiet stream, a larger river and finally along a beautiful bay into the town of Vilanova de Arousa. It was a wonderful day of hiking that totaled 15.5 miles. Tomorrow we take a boat upriver to start a shorter walk before our final day into Santiago!

    Don’t miss the video at the end. We were invited into a little chapel along the way where a trio sang us a song to bless our day 👏
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  • Day 20

    Day 12 - Pontevedra to Armenteira

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    The morning started very busy with pilgrims again all jockeying for position on the road out of Pontevedra. We were happy when we got to veer off on the Spiritual Variant route. It was a beautiful walk with very few pilgrims. Maybe that is because there was a huge climb on this route today. In fact Tom had me so nervous about it that we decided it was best to pay a transfer service to move our heavy packs for the day. He told me it was going to be the equivalent of climbing Mt. Lassen in the middle of the day. Climbing Mt. Lassen is one of my least favorite things to do. So we readied ourselves with just the essentials; hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, windbreaker, water, phone, poles, our walking credentials and headed out. We made it to an early lunch stop to fuel up for what promised to be a tough afternoon climb. But once we were out of the steep village streets and onto a wide, mostly dirt, mostly shaded road, it was awesome. About 72 degrees today with a cool light breeze. Yes it was a hill, but it was either such an easy grade or we are in amazing shape. Either way, it was a lovely climb (rough downhill) and it dumped us off right into a bar for drinks and a stroll around the Monastery grounds.

    14.5 miles today, on a not so terrifying climb. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. Only 3 days left of this adventure. 🇪🇸
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  • Day 19

    Day 11 - Redondela to Pontevedra

    April 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today started out hard. Tough hills to climb and as we expected, lots of pilgrims. You can always tell all the newbies to the trail as they look cleaner and smell fresher and they are more chatty. It seemed the 3 of us walked today in unusual silence. Maybe it was because after 11 days of walking together (plus days spent beforehand in Porto) we had run low on conversation topics. But I think we were subconsciously sad because we knew this was our last full day as a walking threesome.

    Tomorrow Tom and I veer off on the Espiritual Variant of this route and Miquel will head straight to Santiago. Our route will take us a day or two extra to complete and we may or may not see Miguel before he flys out of Santiago for Barcelona.

    Today’s walk started hard but the whole day was beautiful. By early afternoon the pilgrims were all spread out and we spent the rest of our day on the most amazing trail, along a creek, in the shade, in 75 degree weather that seemed to go on forever. Tonight we are in Pontevedra after a 13.8 mile day. This small city looks fun and our last night with Miguel will be celebrated. ❤️
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  • Day 18

    Day 10 - Vigo to Redondela

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Day 10. Somedays are just better than others. But to be honest, Sundays are usually a harder day on the Camino. We spent most of the day walking on a high ridged trail with the city and bay of Vigo in our sights. It was a beautiful and popular trail with many locals hiking and cycling. It was great to see such an active community. We then had a steep downhill into Redondela and stopped at the first bar for a cold drink. We were right at the connecting trails where pilgrims entered from both the Central and Coastal Caminos. From here on out the Camino will feel busier. It was hard to find service for lunch but after an agonizing look and long wait to be served, we made it to our albergue by 2:00pm. We are staying in a room with 10 people tonight in Cesantes (just outside of Redondela) and guess who has the top bunk 😑.

    I already miss our sweet apartment in Vigo where we all had the best nights sleep of our whole trip.

    13 miles complete another Camino day. 🇪🇸
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  • Day 17

    Day 9 - Baiona to Vigo

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today we all woke up a little grumpy and indecisive. Where to find breakfast, what side of the street to walk on, panicked because we had not booked accommodations yet in Santiago and then the worst, what route to take today.

    We chose to do the coastal route of the Portuguese Camino because who wouldn’t want to walk on the coast for two weeks. But we soon discovered that there are many options along the way. Most days we have chosen the road less traveled and glad we did. It is always harder, with more climbing, but usually gets you out of the direct sun and has better views. Today the decision was like being asked what method of execution we preferred 🥴

    Tom finally veered to the right and once again we found ourselves on the road less traveled. But that is where we find all the pretty (old) stuff that peaks our interest; doors, gates, walls, forests, flowers etc. That is where locals shout “Buen Camino!” with enthusiasm from their verandas and store fronts as you pass by, even though they have probably said it a thousand times to a thousand pilgrims in their lifetime. Do they know they are a huge encouragement? Some do because they have probably walked their own Camino but I think most just have the innate gift of encouragement. Either way, somedays it is all you need to hear to continue to put one foot in front of the other until you reach your destination for the day.

    Tonight we are in the big city of Vigo in a sweet little apartment. Showers and laundry are done and we have a little energy left to explore. 11 miles to Vigo and a taxi ride through the city to our apartment. Tomorrow is another day. 🇪🇸 ❤️
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  • Day 16

    Day 8 - Oia to Baiona

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today started with a great first breakfast at our cute little Albergue. Pastries were delivered from the local bakery and then Marcus, from Estonia, made us some scrambled eggs. Marcus was one of the kindest, most considerate Pilgrims we have met on a Camino. It’s too bad he was young and fit so walking many more kilometers per day than the average pilgrim. That means we will probably never cross paths with him again 😔.

    After 4.5 miles to second breakfast I began getting worried about the hill mapped out before us. We haven’t had many climbs on this Camino so far. But we did a lot of highway walking today so the turnoff to the trail up the mountain was kind of a welcome sight. As it turns out, the climb was the best part of the day. It took us out of the sun and through a beautiful shaded forest with spectacular views of the ocean. On the downhill side, we stopped at the bottom at another unique place for a cold drink to refuel and celebrate our success. There we met two gentlemen from Portland who had completed 13 Caminos. We walked the last 3 miles into Baiona with them and heard many stories of their adventures.

    Another good day in the books. 11.8 miles further down the road to Santiago.
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