El Salvador
Departamento de Sonsonate

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    • Day 70

      Rutas de las Flores

      April 7 in El Salvador ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      We left Santa Ana early to explore the Ruta de Las Flores with our first stop the beautiful tiny town of Juayua. We had heard Juayua had amazing food markets on the weekends and we were not disappointed. The food was delicious, even the local rabbit dish! Pit stop at hot natural springs and we were all feeling super relaxed for our last night in El Salvador. Our air BNB in Apancea (the coffee growing region) was perfect!Read more

    • Day 68

      Lake Coatepeque

      April 5 in El Salvador ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

      The plan for Lake Coatepeque was simple...hire an amazing air BNB on the lake and chill while the kids spend the afternoon jumping into the lake from the private dock, swimming in the pool and enjoying the spectacular blue crater laker! We arrived and the lake was full of algae, no swimming allowed and it stank!! Apparently it happens and will clear up when the rainy season starts later this month! Oh well...onto the air BNB....which was equally as disappointing with a weird layout, very dated and a freezing dirty pool! We made the best of it, kids enjoyed jet ski rides and we ate at a local deserted hostel!Read more

    • Day 19

      7 Wasserfälle 💧🏞

      April 20 in El Salvador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Gemeinsam mit Rapha haben wir heute eine Wasserfall Tour gemacht.

      Zu sehen gab es insgesamt 7 Wasserfälle und den Dschungel. 🌴🌿⛰

      Die Tour war sehr aufregend.... wir mussten zum Beispiel IM Wasserfall nach oben klettern. 🧗‍♀️

      Danach waren wir noch in Juayua essen und sind in der Stadt herum spaziert. 🫓🍅

      Dann sind wir weiter nach El Tunco. Heute schlafen wir hier, um morgen Früh den Shuttle nach Leon (Nicaragua) zu nehmen. 🚐
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    • Day 73

      Seeing beyond the Flowers.

      March 13 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Today we took a drive along a road known as the route of the flowers (Ruta de Las Flores). It is a bit out of season for the flowers but it was still a pleasant drive. And there were plenty of flowers to see along the way, along with street art, artisan crafts and a nice mix of street food and coffee plantations.

      Our guide Carlos told us all about the history much of it sadly violent. A genocide of native groups in the 1930s by a military dictator. A civil war from 1979 to 1992 which resulted in over 75,000 deaths and many “disappeared.” Our guide told us how his grandmother was tortured and killed during these years and showed us a place where a rebel leader was shot by firing squad. This isn’t ancient history but fairly recent.

      After the civil war the country was weak and at this time the USA deported thousands of gang members from Southern California. The country could not cope with these violent and organised criminals and gang warfare flourished. Gangs were more powerful than the state. As recently as 2015 El Salvador had the highest murder rate in the world 103 murders per 100,000 in a year (UK is 9.9). Again our guide told us how the gangs would collect extortion money from his parent’s business and those that didn’t pay were killed.

      Over the last couple of years a new president - Nayib Bukele - has led a massive crackdown. Ironically the gangs culture has been used against them. Gangs identified using tattoos. One gang for example had a sad clown face tattoo and a tear indicated you had killed someone. During the crackdown these tattoos were enough to arrest and convict (for life). During the crackdown 70,000 gang members have been put in prison (2% of population) with minimal judicial process. If you want to get an idea of scale and seriousness, see https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-64…

      The murder rate is now 2.4 per 100,000 (less than UK) and the president has been re-elected with 83% of the vote. To bring this closer to home, our guide told us that the place we are staying was a stronghold of the notorious MS-13 gang and completely unsafe a couple of years ago. Now they are welcoming tourists and hopefully the economy can grow and flourish leading to a better life for all here.
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    • Day 58–61

      Juayua

      February 25 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Danach geht es weiter nach Juayua, einer kleinen Gemeinde, die zusammen mit einigen anderen Dörfern zu der sogenannten "Ruta de Las Flores" gehört. Eine Landstraße, die all die Gemeinden verbindet mit einigen schönen Blumen am Straßenrand und diversen Aussichtspunkten auf die Berge drumherum. Allerdings ist aktuell nicht all zu viel von der Blütenpracht zu sehen.
      Die einzelnen Gemeinden kann man sehr einfach mit dem Bus besuchen, und so unternehme ich diverse Trips zu den einzelnen Dörfern. Meistens gibt es dort einen zentralen Platz mit einer Kirche. Außerdem mache ich in Juayua die Wanderung der 7 Wasserfälle (eigentlich sind es sogar zehn). Die Wanderung macht sehr viel Spaß, wir klettern teilweise die Wasserfälle hoch und werden mehrfach komplett nass.
      Und ich probiere mich durch die Pupusarias in Juayua, eine traditionelle Füllung hier ist mit "Mora", einer Pflanze, die ein bisschen wie Spinat schmeckt.
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    • Day 518

      Ruta de las Flores

      August 27, 2023 in El Salvador ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Knappe 100 km Luftlinie trennen uns von Santa Ana in El Salvador 🇸🇻, unserem nächsten Ziel. Für die Reise dahin benötigen wir aber knappe 8 Stunden (in 6 verschiedenen Bussen) und die Fahrt führt uns über 2 Grenzen (der logischste und schnellste Weg ist über Guatemala). Aber wir erreichen Santa Ana (2. grösste Stadt des Landes) noch rechtzeitig um das abendliche Heimspiel des lokalen Fussballklubs CD FAS zu begutachten ⚽️. Der Fussball-Länderpunkt El Salvador ist also bereits am ersten Tag im Lande eingetütet. Ansonsten sehen wir von der Stadt nicht allzu viel, aber viel verpasst haben wir wohl nicht. Am nächsten Morgen zieht es uns an die Ruta de las Flores. Dies ist eine 32 km lange Strecke im Apaneca-Ilamatepeq-Gebirge. Wenn Saison ist kann man hier wunderschön blühende Blumen begutachten. Da wir aber nicht in der Blumen-Saison hier sind, begnügen wir uns mit der Besichtigung einiger Bergdörfer voller Tradition, Kultur und leckerer Gastronomie. In Juayua findet nämlich jedes Wochenende eine Feria Gastronomica (eine Art Lebensmittelmesse) statt, wo sich jeder Hinz und Kunz aus allen umliegenden Dörfern einfindet. Allerdings haben wir da etwas mehr erwartet von dieser „weltberühmten Messe“ (gemäss Lonely Planet), abgesehen von der gutgelaunten Atmosphäre war es gar nichts spezielles. Speziell schön an unserem Aufenthalt an der Ruta de las Flores ist aber das wir nicht alleine sind. Elias und Martina (Elias und Thomas kennen sich bereits seit knappen 20 Jahren) reisen gerade auf einem längeren Roadtrip der Pazifikküste Zentralamerikas entlang von Welle zu Welle und lassen das Surfbrett für ein paar Tage stehen um uns Gesellschaft zu leisten 😀🥳. Eine willkommene Abwechslung mal ein paar Tage zu 4. zu Reisen und so gibt es wieder mal intensive Männer- und Frauengespräche 😁.Read more

    • Day 13

      Flat World ???

      January 27, 2023 in El Salvador ⋅ 🌙 77 °F

      We are off to prove the World is NOT flat ... by "going around it". I know you have been waiting for Karen and I to solve this question. Forget gravity, solar problems, tectonic plates, and magnetic fields (I’m sure my sailor friends are scratching their heads right now as to why we think this is a question).

      Pythagoras (550BC) used math to prove it was round, Aristotle (350BC) provided arguments that the Earth was a sphere. Still, Columbus had trouble getting funding to do the trip. Finally, with advances in navigation (and ships), Magellan did not make it around the world, but he did discover the Straits of Magellan and the Pacific Ocean (it was calm). He died on the trip but his MATE, Juan Sebastian el Cano1522 finished the trip. Good thing there was a Mate.

      Note: Magellan made most of the trip and did discover the Straits of Magellan, crossed the Equator and found and named the Pacific because it was calm in 1521.

      “Unlike the Mediocre, Intrepid Spirits Seek Victory Over Those Things That Seem Impossible...it Is with an Iron Will That They Embark on the Most Daring of All Endeavors... to Meet the Shadowy Future Without Fear and Conquer the Unknown.” Magellan

      Now, once and for all we are off to prove it. Can you tell sunrise from sunset?
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    • Day 25

      Acajutla, El Salvador

      January 5, 2023 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

      A new-to-us port and country today … where we were greeted by folk dancers and lively music as passengers began to stream off around 8:00a.

      I had organized a private tour for four people to check out what we could of the Ruta de las Flores — the flower route … so named for all the white coffee plant flowers that decorate the area during the right season. Alas no flowers for us. Josue, our guide from El Salvador Positive, later told us that coffee is the number one export of the country … the USA being their number one importer of the same.

      Yesterday, another couple asked to join the tour, so we ended up being six people in a van that could have accommodated twice as many. We set out at 8:30a and headed up into the mountains. There was a light breeze and the elevation we were at — 4,000+ feet — offered us comfortable temperatures for our day of exploration.

      Our first stop was in Nahuizalco, a town of some 50,000 people. Tradition has it that it was founded by four families. We started off at the small museum, which Josue explained was founded by the local people to keep their history alive. From there, we walked across to the day market where locals bring their goods to sell. It was a colorful and lively market where we were made to feel most welcome even though we were not shopping.

      Next, we continued onto Concepcion de Ataco, a highland coffee village. On the outskirts of Ataco, we dropped off the two newcomers to our group at a coffee plantation for a mini tour and coffee tasting.

      Then, onward we went. The plan was for them to join us later. In the meantime, we would be taking a coffee break at a cafe recommended by David, the Toscana chef on Insignia, who hails from Ataco. Unfortunately, the place he recommended was closed. But Josue took us to Café Axul, where the coffee aficionados in our foursome delighted in tasting Salvadoran coffee … I can say that the peach smoothie I opted for was delicious. Josue also encouraged us to taste the Salvadoran version of a quesadilla … a sweet bread/cake.

      I was particularly keen on visiting this town because I had heard that there were a lot of murals to search out. I did find quite a few of them, but had we been on our own, I probably would have managed to find more. After taking a group photo in front of the Ataco village mural, we hopped in a trailer pulled by a 4WD vehicle, and went up to an overlook from where we enjoyed views of the village, with Cerro El Aguila (a volcano that spans the border of El Salvador and Guatemala) serving as a distant backdrop.

      By the time we came back into the downtown area, it was time to move on again. A short distance this time to Entre Nubes Café for a late lunch. Good, simple food … and a bit of time to relax and converse after our busy day of exploration.

      We were back on the ship shortly after 5:00p … well ahead of our scheduled 8:00p departure. The tour was longer than we planned … but none of us were complaining as we all had a delightful time. The best part of our day … all the wonderful, smiling, friendly Salvadorans we met in the streets of Nahuizalco and Ataco.
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    • Day 9

      Silvester 22/23 in Ataco El Savator

      January 1, 2023 in El Salvador ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Silvester mal etwas anders. In der Stadt war fast kein Restaurant offen. Mit viel Glück haben wir noch was zu essen bekommen. Die Menschen hier gehen in die Kirche und feiern dann zu Hause. Wir waren müde , haben ein paar Bier getrunken und waren um 22 Uhr im Bett. In der Nacht hat es stark geregnet. Zum Glück war es am Morgen wieder trockenRead more

    • Day 128–130

      Juayúa

      April 3 in El Salvador ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

      Von Santa Ana ging es dann abenteuerlich mit einem Chickenbus weiter nach Juayúa. Insbesondere dieser Name brach uns allen das Genick und bis heute weiß niemand, wie man es wirklich ausspricht. 😄

      Die Stadt liegt auf der Route de las Flores, welche in ihrer Blumenpracht im November erstrahlt. Wir wollten uns dort aber die 7 Wasserfälle angucken und ein wenig das Hinterland erkunden. Zudem wollte ich den großen Swing für 5€ mitnehmen. Hier springt man von einem Podest und wirbelt dann durch die Gegend bei traumhafter Kulisse. Auch in Juayúa waren die Leute wieder super freundlich und die Pupusas köstlich, was das Ganze abrundete.

      Den vollen Tage nutzte ich somit dann für die Wasserfall Tour, bei der wir uns klettertechnisch den Weg bahnten. War das traumhaft schön und nicht zu anstrengend! Dennoch würde sowas in De niemals möglich sein ohne Sicherung und Co. Da durfte man halt keinen Fehler machen... 😅 Man sollte nicht immer alles oberengineeren.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Departamento de Sonsonate, Sonsonate

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