Mexico to Rio

January - August 2024
We are currently travelling from Mexico City through Central America and South America to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil by August Read more
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  • Day 1–3

    Coyoacan, Mexico City

    January 1 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    So after a long flight and a long day (6 hours longer than normal due to the time zones) we arrived safely in Mexico City. This is a mega city with a population of 22.2 million so we picked the quiet suburb of Coyoacan for our first two days to allow us to settle in.

    This area has a bohemian and hipster vibe with plenty of street entertainers, local food and markets and interesting architecture.

    The area is most famous for being the home of celebrated Mexican artist Frida Kahlo and her husband the muralist Diego Rivera. We visited her childhood home where she stayed much of her short life. Called Casa Azul (blue house) it had lovely grounds and provided rich insight into her challenging life and the art it fuelled.

    We then went to the Leo Trotsky museum, the house where he lived in exile from Stalinist Russia, suffered multiple assassination attempts before he was eventually murdered (with an ice axe).

    We spent the rest of the day exploring the streets, market and did some birding in the local park. Because this is a new country for us most of the birds were brand new. Of the 18 species we identified 16 were life ticks. Highlights were the small Ladder-Backed Woodpecker and the brilliant red Summer Tanager.

    Tomorrow we are heading to Valle de Bravo for a few days (a 3 hour bus ride) to see the Monarch Butterflies.
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  • Day 3–6

    Valle de Bravo

    January 3 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I am writing this from the bus heading back to Mexico City. A quick wrap up about Valle de Bravo.

    Valle de Bravo was a lovely town. Very steep roads up and down which we felt being fresh to altitude. But they had carefully protected the original colonial architecture with terracotta roofs and red and white walls. Even the international brands like banks had to make their signs and logos from local wood to fit the architecture.

    Yesterday we took a walk in a forest between two waterfalls along a river. It was great to see lots of birds. Frustrating that I couldn’t identify about a third of what we saw but I have now taken my trip list to 43 species (all but four life ticks). Highlights on this walk were seeing and hearing a Blue Mockingbird and identifying our first Hummingbird a Rivoli’s. I have set the fairly ambitious target of seeing 1,000 species on this trip and want to make the most of this northern extremity as there will be birds here that aren’t found further south.

    At the second walk I was scrambling around on wet rocks trying to get the perfect photo when I slipped and our only phone went flying and landed in the river. We rely on a phone for a lot these days… so I am happy to say recent iPhones have been made waterproof! After reaching down through 6 inches of mud I found the phone and to our relief it was fine. Phew.

    Last night we had a lovely walk through the town in the throws of Epiphany Eve. This is 12 days after Christmas when the Three Kings brought gifts to Jesus. This is celebrated here more than Christmas and the Three Kings more than Santa. Children write to the Tres Reyes saying they have been good. And then they receive gifts from the kings. A traditional food is the Rocas del Reyes which is a bread made into a large complete ring symbolising the never ending love of God. It has images related to Christmas on it and inside is hidden a model baby Jesus. Whoever gets this has to pay to host a meal in February.
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  • Day 3

    Valle de Bravo - Paragliding!

    January 3 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    So today we got the bus to Valle de Bravo. Let me start by saying, Mexico buses are good. The bus station is more like an airport with a huge concourse, departure screens and lounges. Super well organised and the bus left and arrived on time. They show movies on the bus (in Spanish) and we had Peter Rabbit 2, so lots of shots from the Lake District!

    Valle de Bravo is one of Mexico’s 177 Pueblos Mágicos (magic towns) with lovely viewpoints, a lakeside setting, and old colonial architecture.

    We enquired about paragliding in the square and found out we could do it this afternoon so I (Michael) signed up on the spot. Valle de Bravo is world famous for this sport and in fact this weekend it hosts the first round of the 2024 Paragliding World Cup. The best of the best are here and the sky was full of them.

    We drove to the top of Mount Alto at 2201m to launch. I signed the legal disclaimer (in Spanish), listened to the safety briefing (in Spanish) and then we were off. The flight was 25 minutes with great views of the pine forest, the lake and the town.

    Tomorrow I get the good camera out for Monarch Butterflies!
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  • Day 4

    Monarch Butterflies

    January 4 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Today we took a trip out to see the Monarch Butterflies about 30-40 minute south east of Valle de Bravo. We negotiated for a taxi to drive us there, wait 3 hours and then take us back (600 pesos, about £27) and off we went.

    It was about an hours hike to about 3,120m where the Oyamel Fir grows which the monarchs need to hibernate.

    We only had about 15 minutes with the butterflies but it was a lovely time.
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  • Day 4

    Sunset at Mirador La Peña

    January 4 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This evening we took a lovely walk up Mirador La Peña about 2km from our accommodation up a large rocky outcrop.

    We arrived just before sunset. Hundreds of swifts were flying around and I was able to confidently identify three different species (Vaux’s, White-napped and White-throated) which pleased me greatly. We saw a couple of hundred egrets flying into a roost too.

    The sunset was however the highlight and the photos speak for themselves. Our first sunset experience of the trip.
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  • Day 6–10

    Mexico City Highlights

    January 6 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    So we are about to catch a (gulp) 21 hour bus ride to Merida which also means we are leaving Mexico City so we will wrap up on a few of the highlights beyond what we have already shared.

    We have had a couple of early morning bird watching (now at 112 species for trip - will post a blog about this soon) and some afternoons and a whole day today sightseeing.

    Mexico is a very culturally rich city. The contrasts are high too - between rich and poor, expensive and very good value. You see the rich helicoptering to work and the masses paying 5 pesos (25p) to travel any distance by bus, train or cablecar (and any combination thereof).

    To save money we have been using the metro and buses (25p for any length journey) and this has been an interesting experience. At times even more packed than London in rush hour. At others very pleasant and peaceful. Like any big city there are beggars, pickpockets and the like and there is a heavy police presence but overall people have been friendly.

    Well the photos show some of the highlights of our visit. So enjoy them. Next up Merida on the Yucatan peninsular.
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  • Day 7

    Teotihuacan, Hot Air Ballooning

    January 7 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    An early start this morning for our 5.20am pickup and 40 minute drive to Teotihuacan. But worth it as we had booked hot air ballooning over this UNESCO world heritage site.

    The Teotihuacan site was staggering. Two large pyramids, the pyramid of the moon and the sun. A large avenue originally 9km long. The ingenuity of how the calendar was built into the site along with both true and magnetic north being signposted. And all this started 150 BC.

    Our Hot Air Balloon ride was stunning and the pictures and video will show this better than I can. There were at least 35 other hot air balloons in the air at the same time as us. And we flew directly over the Sun Pyramid which was an amazing moment.

    After the hot air balloon ride we took about 3 hours to explore the site on the ground with a guide. Amazing to know that in its original form they could flood the entire avenue a few inches deep with the water coming out of the pyramid of the moon, This along with the original mica surface would have created a stunning mirror effect. The whole site had a 3 degree slope away from the moon pyramid to keep the water moving.

    This was very much a peak experience for us. Not something we can do everyday but something we will always remember.
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  • Day 10–11

    Overnight Bus

    January 10 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Well a 21 hour bus ride does have its moments. We are actually quite comfortable and have slept well as we have lots of room and the chairs recline well, kind of like business class on a plane.

    Seen a few new birds that were identifiable - magnificent frigate bird, royal tern, osprey, brown pelican to name a few - and many more that I couldn’t identify safely from a moving bus.

    Anyway, we just hit the sea and with it had our first view of the Caribbean so thought we would share that.
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  • Day 11–15

    Merida, other highlights

    January 11 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    So that is us moving on from Merida having had a great but busy stay. We were up between 4.40 and 5am each day for bird watching but saw some great birds and in the evening explored the city. The pictures show some of the highlights.

    We are now taking an amazing bus (so good) to Cancun from where we will immediately get a ferry to Isla Mujeres. Over the next four days we will be doing some scuba diving. Hope you are all well and sending our love.
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  • Day 12

    Yucatan Cooking Course

    January 12 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today we did a market tour and cooking course in Merida. Starting in the market we tasted some local fruit, snacks, honey, pastes, drinks and sweets whilst collecting our ingredients to cook lunch. Some of these I had never heard of including a fruit called mamey which was very sweet and delicious. We then visited the home of a local lady where we prepared lunch. Empanadas stuffed with cheese, a variety of salsas and guacamole, the chicken dish for main (served with tortillas made at the stall shown in the photos) and a set coconut dessert, which I think was my favourite dish. It was fun to sample some new foods and learn a little about Yucatan cuisine.Read more