France
Arrondissement d'Épernay

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    • Day 20

      Conde-sur-Marne 12 miles

      August 1, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Was looking forward to a short day but noticed that check in for the next place was at 6pm and I was expected to leave this morning by 9.30am with nothing of any note in-between. Even walking really slowly I was going to have to spend 3 hours sitting beside a canal. After discussing the problem with my host she offered to phone to ask if could get in earlier. Ended up anytime after 2pm would be fine. Made all the difference to the day.

      Couple of hours walking in the forest this morning followed by a couple of hours along the canal in the afternoon. Very pleasant. Arrived about 2.30pm. Showered, got plenty of washing done and put my feet up before 4pm. Gave me hours to look forward to my tea. The best that can be said about that is at least I don’t have to carry it tomorrow.

      The “missing” lady turned up to stay but at least in this place we have separate bedrooms. She is walking from Glasgow to Rome, pulling a trailer. Words fail me.
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    • Day 2

      18.09 - Day 02. Épernay & Champagne

      September 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      So we had our first lay in for I don’t know how long - was a joy not to have to be anywhere at any time!
      I finally caught up with Tre sitting in the sunshine outside the hotel at about 11am (I got up last) and we took a relaxed stroll back into Épernay central looking for a coffee and some breakfast. As usual in France we were a little late and having taken in a small street market we grabbed a table in the sunshine at Le Khédive in Rue de la Porte Lucas, a stones throw from last nights restaurant.
      After a well sought after coffee we decided it would be a good idea to lunch now and then not have to worry to much later for food.
      Tre decided it was late enough in the day to sample her first champagne of the day and I jumped in with a rouge beer that everyone around us seemed to be sampling.
      We spent a good couple of hours enjoying the sunshine and warmth of the day, lovely food including mirabelle crumble and a couple more drinks. I am now officially a fan of Affligem Rouge - mixed berry beer.
      After lunch we wandered some of the surrounding streets finding a part ruin of the original Épernay Notre Dame Church.
      A few minutes later we spotted Moët & Chandon main building and the Ballon D’Epernay. Looking to get a little closer we found ourselves in Avenue de Champagne, a street with all the main Champagne producers having a presence - in the main, stunningly majestic and grand pieces of French architecture.
      We started our stroll along the Avenue taking in Moët & Chandon, Hôtel de Ville, Perrier Jouet, and Collard Picard amongst others. At Hôtel de Ville we detoured down through the stunning gardens that host it, and out the northern gate to visit Église Notre-Dame, the church that holds centre stage within the town.
      The church was typically beautiful inside, with an abundance of stained glass windows held under its considerable and high roof. I can only say that there must be a lot of naughty people in Épernay, maybe due to the champagne - as I have never seen so many confession boxes within one church!
      We returned to the Avenue de Champagne after the excursion to the church to continue our champagne education. By this I mean we stopped at Collard Picard for a further glass of fizz making the most of the late afternoon sun and watching the slightly brisk wind that had started, play havoc with Tre’s hair whilst she tried to look cool sipping fizz with the other trendies!
      We then commenced our walk back to the hotel stopping to buy ourselves a champagne stopper, for use with our undoubted champagne purchases tomorrow!
      Back at our little bolt hole we simply chilled and reflected on a relaxed and enjoyable day.
      Tomorrow’s to do list:
      Get up
      Buy champagne
      Drive for 6 hours
      Arrive at our destination.
      Chill
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    • Day 5

      Hello Epernay

      September 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      It was an smooth and uneventful train ride to Epernay. The biggest hurdle was getting our suitcases up and down the steps at the station (thanks Ian).

      It was a very short stroll to our Airbnb, where we left our bags and went to have lunch and started to explore the town. Our apartment is up 3 flights of stairs in an old building with high ceilings, so another big shout out to my wonderful husband for the heavy lifting (Ed - blokes are useful for some things!)

      The apartment is absolutely gorgeous - spacious with stylish decor. We had lunch at a little family run bistro - the Grill and Chill - located just around the corner from our apartment. Once lunch was over we headed out to explore the town and taste some champagne.
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    • Day 8

      Flights of fancy

      September 21, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      After floating above Épernay we headed back to the apartment for a bite to eat. We planned to have a few Champagne tastings (flights) this afternoon, well at least Bronwyn and I did.

      We first did a bit of shopping - we have been well behaved during our stay, only buying Champagne and chocolate so far. We bought a couple of souvenirs before heading to our first tasting at Champagne De La PROPRIETE. Ian joined us and we had six different champagnes; they weren’t too bad and they came with snacks. We then moved onto Janisson Baradon for our next tasting. (Ian elected to skip this tasting and instead went to the Champagne museum.) Here we had five champagnes:- Brut, Extra Brut, Grande Réserve, Blanc de Blancs 2014 and finished with a Brut Rosé. All had fairly low sugar added, which suits my palette.

      During our tasting we starting chatting to a retired Dutch couple on the table next to us. They were really fun and were spending 2 weeks in Champagne. The afternoon flew by and before you knew it Ian was back form the museum. We headed home to have dinner, which comprised of quiche and green beans from our Charcuterie, some yummy bread from the boulangerie (one with chorizo and one with lardons) and macaroons for dessert, all washed down with a bottle of Jean Milan Rosé.

      We had tried to book into a restaurant called Why Not for dinner but they were fully booked, so our makeshift meal in our apartment was a nice alternative. Tomorrow we leave for Lyon, and will be up early as our train to Paris is at 8.30am.
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    • Day 7

      Champagning at the bit

      September 20, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      To ensure we arrived in Mareuil-sur-Ay for our e-Bike tour of the Champagne area in plenty of time we had booked an Uber, which gave us piece of mind. We had booked it for 8.30am and were downstairs by 8.20am. But, at 8.31am the booking was cancelled - not happy Jan! FYU!

      We headed to nearby Épernay station to try and secure a taxi - Ian called a local company to book a taxi and we were on our way about 15 minutes later (Ed - much to everybody’s surprise it arrived!). We arrived at our meeting spot 30 minutes early, so went for a bit of a wander around the area.

      We met the rest of the group at Le Clos Corbier - a bed and breakfast and tasting venue - where we had a coffee, met Harry the office dog and waited to have our briefing on how to operate the eBikes. We then headed off but had to quickly return to base as one of the bikes had 3 broken spokes.

      Finally, we were off and pedalling, making our way through the picturesque town of Mareuil-sur-Ay, passing a number of Champagne houses - Bollinger, Taitinger, Billecart-Salmon, Piper Heidsieck, Philipponnat, Roederer and Clos des Goisses.

      We then headed out of the village into the picturesque vineyards, making our way to the town of Hautvillers for a cellar tour with the fourth generation winemaker Benoit (spunk, Ed - Quel mec?) from the family run Champagne House of Fernand Lemaire. The village was located fairly high up in the hills, and was very picturesque. This was followed by a tasting of three of their fabulous champagnes, including a Brut (2017), a Rosé and a Brut vintage 2012. All of these champagnes were stellar.

      After our tasting, we visited the Abby of St Peter, where Dom Perignon, supposedly the creator of champagne, worked as the cellar master and is now buried. Good story, but not really true. He did develop elements of the wine making process and made important contributions to the production and quality of champagne wine when the region’s wines were predominantly red, and is considered the “spiritual father” of champagne. It’s just that the sparkling champagne we know today was not created until about 200 years after he died. The DP myth seems to have been largely created by Scotty from marketing.

      After a brief stop at a scenic lookout affording great views of the champagne region, we started our decent into the valley through beautiful vineyards heading back towards Le Clos Corbier, following a path along the Marne river. On arrival back we were treated to a delicious lunch with copious amounts of champagne and and the aptly named Bouzey Rouge, pinot noir.
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    • Day 3

      19.09 - Day 03. The Longest Day - ER II

      September 19, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      So today was always going to be brutal - we knew we had just short of 6 hours in Roxvanne, making our way south to our new short term home.
      Before this we had some business to attend to.
      As normal first on the agenda was coffee and a croissant, which we found in a nearby boulangerie just up the road from the hotel. Tre opted for her usual pain au chocolate while I went for the lovely glazed and very plump filled chausson aux pommes. After taking the obligatory food eating photo for Simon we got on the road heading off to buy champagne.
      On the recommendation of Lou we headed to an address at Aÿ Champagne. As we drove towards the village we saw that again most houses and business properties along the road were Champagne linked or in fact small independant champagne houses. At the rear of the properties on our left were hillsides covered with vines. We stopped in a lay-by and hopped out. Immediately we could both smell alcohol or probably better and best described as the fermentation smell I remembered when my dad made home made wine at home many many years ago. That odour that seemed to escape from the glass demijohns of whatever concoction he was making.
      As described by Lou we approached a small house set back off the road with a small industrial unit to one side. I guessed we were in the right place as Lou had mentioned cats . . . and there were definitely cats!!
      A woman appeared from near to the industrial units and thankfully Teresa was able to keep up with the conversation that then took place. My French is poor and it’s times like these I realise how poor! That being said I quickly realised we were in the right place, champagne was being discussed and we were led to what seemed a lower ground garage to the side of the small house. Once inside I knew all was good as we were surrounded by boxes of champagne and bottling and labelling equipment. More conversation and laughing then took place which I managed to keep up with - weirdly my spidy senses kick in when alcohol is on offer. We spent about 15 minutes discussing various bottles and prices before we made our selections, paid up and were walking back to Roxvanne loaded up. Lou - if the rose is rubbish I will find you, I know where you are!!
      Everything loaded into Roxvanne we set off - destination south.
      We had decided to take the toll roads just to keep the travel time to its shortest, the only downside is we would miss some of the rural countryside. That being said the countryside envelopes you even when on the motorways, with hardly any other cars to be seen, and mile after mile of unspoilt scenery . . . apart from the odd couple hundred wind turbines every so often.
      We skirted south a little then west to the south side of Paris and further west to Orléans then onto Tours and then south to Poitiers. We only stopped twice, Tre deciding to have a drive on one leg, with me encouraging her on the basis that the motorways were empty and she would be fine. Tre was not too impressed however that on her leg we had road works, narrow lanes and lots of heavy goods wagons. She did admit at one point to aching hands due to gripping the wheel so hard! - in any case she drove a blinder and soon was totally relaxed and actually speaking again 😎
      Our total journey was only interrupted on one occasion, when whilst compiling our Spotify playlist again, I had an emergency IT help desk enquiry from the UK about no sound on a laptop . . . Thanks Simon!!
      Of note . . . we did manage to get the world service on the radio and listened to a good element of the Queens Funeral for some of the journey as we were unable to get to see it.
      RIP ER II.
      We continued south now recognising place names from our previous trips, score finally exiting the motorway onto the N roads and finally the rural lanes that always appear empty of anyone else.
      We finally arrived at our new place and met with Hannah who showed us around. I’m not sure either still quite believe we are here and what lays ahead.
      We broke out one of the Champagnes from our earlier purchases and sat and managed to watch highlights of the Queens funeral procession.
      So a fab day, an exciting but knackering day, tinged with a little sadness. We start again tomorrow.
      Lou - the rose was fab!!
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    • Day 8

      The name's Bond, James Bond

      April 22, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Back on the road to Epernay, where we saw a bear 🐻 lying just outside the forest (but that's another story)

      This was a spectacular day! Probably the BEST Champagne House tasting and tour, well worth the mucho 💰!!
      2 hours at Champagne Bollinger blew me away. This tour also takes you outside to a vineyard where one of 2 small plots still exist in the whole of France where the original vines are still in place (and were not affected by the phylloxera disease that destroyed all the french vineyards in the early 20th century) and where the original way of growing Grapes with thick wooden stakes are used for a very special vintage Champagne .... only making 2000 bottles a year, IF the harvest is good. Can you say ka-ching? 💸

      This is the only house in the whole of France that still uses a Cooper to repair their 30 year old French oak barrels! Watched him work and learnt he studied 2 years for this! It's the original family estate and still family owned and run.

      But wait, there's more...

      Did you know that 40 years ago, a gentleman's agreement 🤝 was made between the Bollinger family and a film producer which is honored to this day still. EVERY single 007 movie will ALWAYS only use Bollinger champagne. There are at least 25 James Bond movies, so I spent my last euros on a special 25 commemoration bottle 😊 I mean, if I can't get Daniel Craig, this will have to do 😉 besides, who needs shoes anyway?

      And the day just got better.....I booked a Sabrage experience for both Karl and I. Nina, who was actually South African and doing her Masters in France, taught us. Karl, being the overachiever and just frigging brilliant at everything he does, got it right the first time. 🗡. Let's just say, I'm posting the edited version of the LONG video of me eventually getting it right and a glass splinter in my hand
      as a reward!

      Now to find a Sabre which he insists on buying and trying to get through customs! 🤦‍♀️
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    • Day 2

      Hautvillers und Kathedrale in Reims

      July 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Vom Campingplatz in Epernay aus, in den kleinen Ort Hautvillers gefahren. Er ist die Wiege der Champagne. Hier erfand der Mönch Don Perignon den Champagner.
      Nach einem Glas Champagner und einem Spaziergang durch den Ort, zog es uns weiter zur Kathedrale nach Reims.Read more

    • Day 2

      Reims

      August 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Nach einem sehr guten Frühstück sind wir relativ früh nach Reims aufgebrochen. Die Kathedrale von Reims haben wir nun schon zum zweiten Mal besichtigt, Die schönen Fenster sind schon faszinierend. Auch über Jeanne d'Arc kann man dort einiges erfahren, die ja Karl VII zu seiner Königssalbung dorthin begleitet hat. Danach besichtigten wir noch die Basilika von Reims. Sie ist wesentlich schlichter als die Kathedrale, hat aber auch sehr schöne Fenstermalereien. Den Abend genießen wir nun auf der Terrasse an unserer Unterkunft.Read more

    • Day 54

      Black Forest to Nogent-sur-Seine

      August 18, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      After booking our ferry, the challenge was on to charge across France in time for Sunday and so today we hit the road and travelled about 460kms, the most on this trip, through rain and wind. It was a tough day but a good one, with a sense of accomplishment at the end.

      The day consisted of tyres worn close to their limit, long straight roads, rain, Burger King, shopping the French way with a cooked poulet and finally a beautiful little gite hidden behind an ugly green gate. Nice shower and crashing out for the night.

      HIGHLIGHT - almost 300miles, sense of accomplishment, burger
      LOW POINT - seeming receding rain
      ROADS - leaving the Black Forest
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arrondissement d'Épernay, Arrondissement d'Epernay

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