Arrondissement de Montmorillon

So - the whole point for today was to investigate as many of the villages (and small towns) that surround Chateau Garnier. Something we hadn’t done until now. We also knew there was a get together in Chateau Garnier starting at lunchtime - a sort of jumble sale, car boot, local artisan seller and general village get together with lots of food and drink thrown in. So we had decided we needed to drop in on this amongst the days travels.
We kicked off the day heading south east to Charroux which would be our breakfast spot as well we hoped. As we drove we were surrounded by field of sun flowers still developing their height and fields of whispy topped barley.
Well - Charroux didn’t disappoint, with a lovely covered market area, a small parade of premises including a large fronted bar, already well in use by the locals, a lovely boulangerie which we dived into for croissants and coffee, and a small but well stocked supermarket.
To top it off, as we sat having our breakfast at an outside table of the boulangerie we marvelled at the Benedictine Abbey of Charroux ruins which was formed around 783 and takes centre stage within the village. After breakfast we took some time to explore the Abbey grounds - well worth a visit.
We then drove slightly south east to Pressac. Although Pressac looks a decent size on the maps we weren’t inspired at all so grabbed a couple of quick photos and continued our journey.
Driving north we came to Saint Martin l’Ars, which nestles both sides of a small river and has a large lake as it’s focal point - used for camping and recreation. There was also a small cafe/bar/restaurant overlooking the river.
We didn’t stay long before continuing north to Usson du Poitou passing the ever present wind turbines that are in this part of France. Usson looked to be a busier village with plenty of shops and bars (one bar obviously had a strong link with the local chasse and fishing fraternity) and a church at its centre.
By this time we needed to get across to Chateau Garnier for our lunchtime appointment.
Heading slightly south west we arrived in Chateau Garnier and found the festivities under way in the village green.
Nearly all of the stalls were bric-a-brac type and it was all I could do to stop Tre from buying very French styled cups, glasses and plates amongst other things. We reminded ourselves of how small our luggage bags had been for the flight. We settled for two lovely hand painted prints from a local artisan lady and a key ring which apparently I WILL use 🤔
We decided against food and drink on the green but instead to go visit the local bar which has only recently re-opened. The owners being as we now know Dominic and Veronique. Sitting outside watching the world go by with drinks in hand, Tre heard a couple walking down the road who were speaking English. When they chirped up with the usual Bonjour as they passed, Tre quickly asked ‘Are you English?’
So we now know that Angela and Roger have been coming to France to their place in Sommiers for about twenty years, they normally drive from Caen on the over night, normally stay a month about France and UK. Pissed off with Brexit. That there are quite a few Brits in Chateau Garnier who have integrated and get on well with the locals. There was a choir to join and a theatre company in the village - I saw Tre’s eyes light up! Roger also lives in Los Angeles as well as Kent. They told us we needed to speak to a couple called Annie and Steve who were currently going through the visa application process. That they were doing up the house opposite the bar we were in, but that they also had bought a smaller house down the hill which Annie and Steve referred to as their dog kennel.
20 mins later Angela and Roger said their goodbyes and left us still sipping our drinks in the sunshine.
Five minutes had passed when a lady came out of the house opposite the bar, and as she chirped up with the usual ‘Bonjour’ as she approached us, Tre said ‘Do you live in a dog kennel down the road?’
So we now know that Annie and Steve are doing up the house opposite the bar which they had bought for a snip. They had also bought a smaller place down the road ‘The dog kennel’ which they had just finished making livable for themselves. The place opposite the bar is for some income as a Gite. After ten mins of chatting about the visa process, the bar, locals in the area and get togethers - we asked with Annie to meet Steve and have a show round of their very well renovated house. It really was lovely and very well done. I think Tre and I were more than a little jealous - but in a good way.
So after an hour or so at the house showing and discussing all there was to discuss about visas, where to buy stuff, what to charge for a Gite etc etc we finally left Annie & Steve’s to continue our journey.
We travelled north to Gencay, which was predominantly a square with a number of small shops and boutiques around it. The place promised much but as with our normal timing most was shut.
We then travelled south west towards Champagne Saint Hilaire and on route came across a quite stunning Chateau. We have no idea what it was called but was situated along the Route de Magne. If only I had a few hundred grand to throw at something.
Champagne Saint Hilaire didn’t do too much for us and so we quickly moved onto Sommièred du Clain, which we did like a lot. A river run past the back of a lovely church and a chateau perched high On a hillside over looking the main square. We spent some time walking around the area - still in glorious sunshine at 33 degrees.
Tre always likes a church and so we entered Église Saint Gaudent for a short period - Tre lighting a candle for both her mum and dad . . . Seemed very appropriate 🙁
We then travelled west to Couhe where we found a double steepled church and another gorgeous covered market square. More photos and a wander followed.
Now on the hunt for an evening meal we drove south to Chaunay which we pretty much just drive through and onto Sauzé-Vaussais.
Sauzé-Vaussais again seemed like it had a lot to offer but it being Sunday late afternoon/evening everything was shut. A tower hogs the attention in the village centre, so once we had got a photo we pressed on in search of a meal.
We drove to Chef Boutonné as we knew there was a pizza restaurant we had visited before - but again the village was asleep and not a single shop open.
Note to self - never plan to eat out on a Sunday evening.
We resigned ourselves to a quick check of Civray once again as we had been there last night. On arrival the only place open was the same bar that we had been in the night before - but when needs must . . . A beer and a glass of rose were ordered up and consumed still in the evening sunshine.
It was at this point that Teresa mentioned the choir in Chateau Garnier and that she fancied joining it. I reminded her of her singing on the in car video from a previous trip and that she may cause the choir at Chateau Garnier to disband if she joined. She mentioned they may let her use the tambourine and just accompany the choir with that. She then uttered the immortal words - ‘my teacher at school said I was a bit of a growler’ - now I burst into laughter but probably not for the reason Tre thought.
We scampered home to our farmhouse, sprayed the place top to bottom with fly spray, ate the rest of our bread and cheese, drank the remaining beers and some rose from the fridge and watched a movie on Netflix before jumping into bed.
What a day - a fab day - a day we needed to do - a day we totally enjoyed. Couldn’t ask for a better day.Read more