Ariège

After starting our day with an omelet prepared by Didier, Muesli with ox yogurt, coffee, bread and honey, Didier chauffeured us on his bicycle to the bicycle trail. We started our day cycling from Saint-Girons to Foix, enjoying the scenic route through the rolling hills from the cycling “greenway” trail. The trail was small gravel and very mushy from the rain. Before Foix we had a brief stop to explore a cave. Then in Foix we made a quick stop at the Friday market where we bought bread, olives for the evening, and some prepared hot food to eat under a tree sheltered from the pesky sprinkling, we continued to Tarascon-sur-Ariège, where we paused for a well-deserved treat of patatas bravas and a beer. Thinking the rain had ceased, we enjoyed the crispy cubed potatoes in the sheltered outdoor seating area. Just as we started eating , the rain began—making it 15 consecutive days of wet weather on our journey. As the temperature dropped and the wind picked up more we sat shivering eating our hot tapas. The consistent bad weather has gotten to the point where all we can do is ride in it and almost laugh. We stopped at a grocery for supplies for dinner and breakfast and then pedaled the last 2 miles to reach our Airbnb in Ornolac-Ussat-les-Bains, FR.

Ornolac-Ussat-les-Bains nestled in the valley between jagged peaks along the L’Ariège River has a mystical feeling about it, steeped in history, known for its healing thermal baths that have drawn visitors since Roman times. The area is also famous for its Cathar connections, as the nearby caves once served as refuges for this persecuted religious group during the 12th and 13th centuries (A pretty horrific ending to their persecution if you care to research.) Additionally, the prehistoric caves in the region, such as Lombrives, have been inhabited for thousands of years, and some of the cave drawings are believed to be 25,000 years old. Now people still pilgrimage here to possibly be healed of all sorts of conditions. This world definitely be a place to stay longer and explore. Our Airbnb had a toasting fire going were we cozied up too for about 20 minutes to relieve our shivers and warm our toes.

Post snacks, shower, and getting the laundry started, we took a 45 minute walk around the village. The rain had stopped, and we could catch some great views of the sharp peaks of the towering Pyrenees and see some caves in the rock faces.

After the walk, we made a nice pasta dinner with mushrooms, olives, and cheese. We sat at the dining room table near the fireplace and chatted with another guest at the Airbnb. dinner was followed by a little more warming our toes by the fireplace, and then we headed off to bed about 9:30 PM. Rain is predicted for tomorrow morning, but we are hoping that will let up before we move on to cross over into Spain.

Another thank you to Didier and Sylvie for a wonderful stay!Read more