Département des Bouches-du-Rhône

We are here, we made it, we walked 21 kms, and all is well! We are so happy, it was a great day, feet a little tired, but after a beer and check into hotel we feel really good. And it is one of the chain of hotels in France where we have experienced lovely dinners, so we are hopeful!

We set off some time before 9 am I think, and followed the route that we had worked out from Arles, but happily we found that the red and white GR signs continued well, and it was easy to follow the correct path..phew…once we were clear of Arles, it was a flat walk through pleasant countryside, partly a parc naturel, and as we approached St Gilles many vineyards, nothing spectacular…but is was perfect to be a flat walk for the first day, and we managed the 21 kms no problems.

It was still cold, and I can’t believe it but we both wore all our layers the whole walk! There was quite a strong wind that kept us cool, which was good, and it was mostly sunny except once a cloud gathered over us and a few drops of rain came down, just for a few minutes, then back to sun. And I realised I had forgotten to unearth my hat from my bag…and I felt the sun burning my scalp!! My hair isn’t as thick as it once was…have pulled it out ready for tomorrow.

Stopped for a lunch break about 12 - had our usual baguette, cheese, apple and chocolate…and just as well we had supplies, as the settlements we saw on the map were not villages, just farms! St Gilles is the first town we have come to…and it seems very pleasant…on a canal from the Rhone, and we crossed the Petit Rhône at one point, one of the two branches of the Rhône delta, and looked as wide as the main river we saw in Arles.

Arrived here before 2.30 so lots of time to unwind…our room was ready and all is good.

We have now had a reconnoiter around the town, and worked out our exit route tomorrow - avoiding a tricky GR sign, that was for the GR700 which could have set us off course! The town is just full of camino signs and markers…unlike Arles where this route officially starts, all along the pavement there are Compostelle tiles that led us to a huge church, which had an exhibit of all the French pilgrim routes (which we have taken most of them). But it is not a hugely used path…Along the route today we only saw one other couple of walkers, and quite a few cyclists. And I have decided that this constant wind is the mistral…have looked it up and this is when it blows, especially between winter and spring, and in the Rhône valley and exactly here. At least it is stopping us get hot and sweaty!

After exploring we stopped for a coffee/chocolate at a bar, then went to a wonderful shop we’d seen with cheeses, charcuterie, wines etc all tantalisingly displayed, and had a glass of local wine. Now downtime till dinner.

Dinner great…melty brie with salad, guinea fowl with amazing sauce, île flottante…and local red…En savoir plus