Europe Trip 2023

July - October 2023
A 94-day adventure by Heather & Vikum Read more
  • 46footprints
  • 8countries
  • 94days
  • 774photos
  • 31videos
  • 23.4kkilometers
  • 19.2kkilometers
  • Day 49

    2 different countries, 1 busy day!

    September 14, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We kicked off the morning with our staple breakfast of yogurt, fruit, and granola and decided to get the admin tasks out of the way first. We figured out the Saint-Louis bus system to take us to the local shopping area where we needed to find the cheapest air beds, tarpaulin, and sleeping bags we could (+ groceries) to accompany our Fort William tent for the upcoming camping we had planned in Switzerland. Saving our pennies given the cost of food and accommodation in the villages of the Swiss Alps! We found everything we needed at the hypermarket, brico (like a Bunnings equivalent), and Intersport. It took a little longer than expected though as those stores are truly massive.

    Back at our accommodation, we had a few snacks before jumping on a tram to Basel, Switzerland. It took a little while to make sure we had the correct ticket allowing us to transfer between the two countries, but we figured it out - which is always satisfying to figure out a new cities public transport. The tram ride was comfortable and spotlessly clean, which felt like an immediate introduction to Swiss precision. It seemed like the train was also a big transport method for school kids as German primary aged children filed onto the tram at a few stops. I have to say, having upwards of 30 primary kids screaming German to each across the tram carriages we were in is an overwhelming way to transition to country with a new language - our first time entering a largely German-speaking place.

    In Basel, we found ourselves in the heart of the city, and our stomachs were grumbling. Another TikTok recommendation led us to a multicultural food court called "Markthalle." On the way passing by an open window where an opera student was practicing - the city felt really vibrant and full of culture already! Markthalle, with its fascinating dome roof, was a cool spot and it seemed like a good recommendation because it was clearly a popular place for the local corporate office crowds (I think this is usually a good sign the locals like the food). Of the many cuisines in Markthalle, we chose Sri Lankan cuisine as it was our first time eating it since NZ. It was a welcome taste of home though it was a little sweeter or milder in flavour than Vikum’s family’s cooking. It was a great lunch but it was also our first look at Switzerland's high cost of living. We shared the one large plate and decided to cook most of our meals at home during our stay.

    We then strolled back to Barfüsserplatz, the central square where many tram lines intersect. A small market was underway, and I learned that it had been a commercial center since 1100, with a history dating back to monastery buildings that the square is named after. I admired the diamond patterned paving of the square that made the space feel so tidily decorated next to the colourful, geometric buildings. There was not much to note at this small market which was good for my self-control.

    The Swiss cleanliness was evident throughout the city, from the streets and buildings to the pristine tram system. Everything felt a little more clean and modern than rural and Southern France. However, what was distinctly crisper and cleaner were the Swiss banknotes – they are made of some durable, bright-coloured plastic.

    Our exploring continued with a visit to the Tinguely Fountain, which was hypnotic in it’s chaotic design (see video). And we also took in the beauty of Basel's churches, statues, and fountains. While passing by a school in the Old Town, we heard a school choir singing traditional German tunes that carried through to the streets nearby. It felt surreal and fairytale.

    We explored the beautiful gothic Basel Münster and it’s viewing platform overlooking the Rhine river. We crossed the Mittlere Brücke (bridge), where we enjoyed how the river glittered in the sun. We took a moment to enjoy coffee with a view of the river and the old town, from the sunny northern bank. Expensive coffee but worth the close up view over the river where it was easy to see how fast the current of the river is.

    Walking along the riverbanks, we watched the ferries get helped into the middle of the river by a wire-pulley system in order to win the battle against the strong current. Near the stairs where many people sunbathed we quickly dipped our toes in the water and realised that the water was warmer than expected – or perhaps it just felt like that as we adjusted to the cooler weather.

    Returning across a second bridge we came back to the old town, and found ourselves at Andreasplatz, a charming slightly-hidden square with cozy cafes, bookstores, and a colorful toy store that captured my attention. We spent a while here just browsing through the unique selection of toys, books and games that I hadn’t seen before.

    After popping into a few boutiques and wandering through streets or courtyards with large old trees or well-curated planting, we filled up our water bottle at a city fountain then hopped on the tram to return to our Airbnb. There, we enjoyed a cozy dinner, put away our washing, and settled in to watch some Netflix. Finishing days of exploring with a quiet evening like this, made “travelling” just start to seem normal, and but like it had become our “everyday life”.
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  • Day 48

    Au revoir France (kind of)

    September 13, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    It was our last day in Montpellier. We checked out of our accommodation, left our bags at the storage, and spent time revisiting our favorite central areas of the city. We decided to take a leisurely coffee break to relax and kill time before our evening flight to Switzerland.

    The café we chose for the morning had tables surrounding a gentle fountain in a garden square, adjacent to a 19th-century Catholic church. French locals were everywhere, from students taking a break to friends enjoying lunch together. We observed a watercolor workshop in progress, led by an classic colourful art teacher; the same in every country!

    With plenty of time on our hands, we planned our next steps and I tried a Café Viennois for the first time, which is essentially a dessert. Which suited me perfectly.

    For lunch, we stumbled upon a modern fried chicken spot on a classic Montpellier street, and ate on the table just outside the small kitchen restaurant.

    Later, we gathered our bags and hopped on the tram to the airport for our easyJet flight (low cost airline). True to form, the flight was delayed multiple times, and we landed at Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg EuroAirport just after 7pm, right on the Swiss border. Luckily, our Airbnb was in Saint-Louis, just over the Swiss border but still in France, and was conveniently close. The EuroAirport itself was fascinating in its own right, with exits to France, Switzerland, and even Germany, despite being entirely on French soil. The process was a breeze thanks to Schengen agreements, and we hopped on a bus to Gare de Saint-Louis.

    Nearer to the Swiss Alps we were glad for the cooler climate as we walked with our packs to our Saint-Louis Airbnb. We grabbed some dinner essentials from a nearby supermarket, closing the day on a simple meal and a refreshing shower. A pleasantly slow, but long travel day.
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  • Day 47

    Montpellier Memento

    September 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The tram in Montpellier is super easy to figure out and was a really smooth way to get to our first point of the day - down to the River Lez near the Place de l’Europe. The river was low, and the area felt like a bit of a commercial district, but there were some interesting 70s architecture. We grabbed a coffee on the river, which seemed to be a big area for flies, so it was alright, but we didn’t stay too long before walking with the hordes of university students back to the major tram stop to head back across town to an older section of the city again. Despite saying the tram was a super easy system, we somehow initially got on the wrong direction on our tram line. Though it didn't matter much as it only added another 10-15 minutes to our trip to the same location, and it was interesting to see a little more of the city this way.

    We got off the tram around the gardens area, but before heading in, we chose a well-rated, affordable lunch spot from Google Maps; stopping at a Moroccan restaurant named Cous Cous Bar. There was a kind owner who talked to us. After finding out we were from NZ, he asked if we were there for the rugby. We discussed how strict he’d heard our first COVID lockdowns were and if we liked Jacinda Ardern. We thought he knew a lot more about NZ than most we'd met. Once served the amazing Cous Cous chicken meal (with delicious broth), he asked if we had Cous Cous in NZ, and when we told him there was a lot, he was quite surprised. It was really sweet. The meal was so beautiful and flavorful, but there was a persistent wasp who would not let us eat. There were many wasps when we ate in France, and it always seemed like they targeted us, like they knew we were tourists and easy targets somehow. We ate our lunch fast both because it was delicious and to hurry away from the aggressive wasp.

    From here we walked to the Jardins des plantes de Montpellier. It was gated around the entirety of the gardens, and we unluckily walked the entire perimeter of the gardens just to find the one entrance through the gates. It wasn't too busy, and they were nice, but didn’t quite stand up to some of the amazing gardens we'd seen up until this point. So moving on, we went to the Promenade de Peyrou and a different Arc de Triomphe that was in the area. It was a humid day and calm but exposed to walk around this area. The most interesting part of the area was the Saint-Clément Aqueduct, which we learned supplied the city's many central fountains. We sat next to one the following day much further away from this spot, which was impressive to think about. Wandering through the city back towards our studio near the main train station, we came past the Montpellier Cathedral with the most beautiful medieval arched structure and scale. The front pillars felt even bigger in person than our photos. Understandably, many students were sitting outside the cathedral taking a perspective drawing class. It made me think back to when I took perspective drawing in my design studies; my equivalent subject being Silo Park.

    From the West part of central Montpellier, we walked back through the town down the high street, where I saw a very beautiful store with pretty prints and materials. We followed more of the winding alleys of Montpellier back to the studio via the supermarket again for more dinner supplies and ended the day with a relaxed dinner and a yummy fruit cheesecake pottle dessert too!
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  • Day 46

    Move to Montpellier

    September 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    We journeyed from Sète to Montpellier where we had a flight booked for Basel in a few days. The train ride to Montpellier was short and pleasant, offering glimpses of the French countryside. Then on arrival we had to wait for five hours before we could check in to our Airbnb.

    To pass the time, we decided to explore the city. We dropped our bags at a nearby luggage storage place and wandered through the charming streets of Montpellier. Hunger led us to a Thai restaurant. The pad thai we ordered was very different to what we’d had in New Zealand, a much less oily version (with less flavour too but still yummy).

    We strolled through the old town area, admiring the beautiful arched buildings and poking our heads into crafty shops. There were some really cool second-hand clothing stores, mostly stocked with jackets and winter attire as the French seemed to think summer was coming to an end. It was still really hot, and would continue for weeks. A highlight was a really detailed and winding toy shop. It had themed sections including a magic section, a space travel section, a Disney section, many many board games and so much more! After our exploration, we headed to a modern coffee shop tucked away in the city's historic alleys. Resting our legs we sipped the good coffee and dodged a tiny sun shower.

    Finally, we checked into our accommodation and made a quick dinner from supermarket finds. Still recovering from a lingering sickness, and tiredness from the travel we decided an early night was in order.
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  • Day 44

    Coastal retreat in Sète

    September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our time in Sète was been a blend of relaxation and healing. I unfortunately couldn't escape the grasp of a relentless cold and spent a full day cocooned in blankets, binge-watching "The Office" and napping. Vikum did the kind work of cooking, and taking care of things while my health improved.

    When I began to feel a bit better, we took gentle strolls along the canals, admiring the boats drifting lazily in the water. Evenings were dedicated to home-cooked meals and enjoying the air-con. It was a forced but comforting respite from any potential travel-weariness. The timing of the sickness was, in one way, serendipitous as we avoided watching the Rugby World Cup opening ceremony and the All Blacks vs France game at a bar surrounded by Frenchmen (a positive given the outcome of that match: a significant loss for the All Blacks).

    In the midst of my recovery, we messaged with family as well as friends, like Paul and Myra, who were also travelling The Netherlands in a campervan. This was a homely comfort that was much appreciated while being sick in a foreign country. As my cold slowly receded, we used the opportunity to bus out to the beach (Plage du Lido/Plage Baleine), where we had our first swim in the Mediterranean Sea. I loved it, of course, but Vikum was seriously hooked. From Sète onwards, Vikum has taken every possible opportunity to swim I think. The sun's warmth at the beach was therapeutic, and we savoured ice cream and treats to ease the self-pity from sickness. Though, truth be told, it wasn't all that hard to endure. After all, where else would you want to be when you're feeling under the weather but in the South of France. I can’t tell you how thankful I was to be by the beach and in the comfort of an air-conditioned apartment during this time!
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  • Day 42

    Getting Sète-lled

    September 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Up early, we tidied the cabin and got to the campground reception at opening time to adjust our checkout time. Despite having days to relax and think about our checkout plan, we hadn’t given a thought to the afternoon train we’d booked. The staff were very relaxed and understanding so we used the extra time to grab a last coffee at a cafe and walk through Souillac. We got back to the cabin in time for our inventory check, that went quickly. So despite delaying everything for as long as possible, we were ready to leave even earlier than expected. We had one last swim and adjusted our packs again to prepare for the dreaded walk up the main hill road in Souillac during the midday sun.

    After dragging our packs from the cabin to reception for some final admin tasks, we completely folded in the face of the uphill walk and decided to try our luck with Uber. It didn't seem likely that Uber would be available in quiet Souillac, but the app loaded and gave us hope for a while. Of course, it didn’t work - if there were Ubers in Souillac, they certainly weren’t available during lunchtime in rural France. However, when you’re facing the idea of 30 minutes uphill with 20kg+ bags in the scorching heat of a central France heatwave, you try harder. After some attempts to translate French through the phone and then enlisting the help of the friendly campground restaurant staff, we managed to arrange a taxi ride.

    We arrived at the station, still quite sweaty but very grateful. We waited a while at Souillac station and finally boarded our train to Sète, a port city on the south coast of France. The travel was straightforward, with just one connection at a major Toulouse station and took about four hours. Upon arrival, we walked with our packs to the apartment we had booked, approximately 10 minutes from the station. I left Vikum briefly to pick up the key from the management agency a few blocks away. The walk took me along the port canals, which looked beautiful in the late afternoon sun. Sète had a different feeling compared to both Paris and Souillac.

    We entered our apartment, climbing a steep, old flight of stairs, and struggled with the ancient French key and lock. But our efforts were rewarded with a very modern, tidy apartment. And it had air conditioning! Feeling quite tired, I realized how exhausted I was, so I rested while Vikum kindly took care of the laundry. We walked to the local supermarket near the apartment and noticed that groceries in the south of France were much more expensive compared to the rest of the country. We put together a makeshift fajita meal.

    At this point, my nose started to feel stuffy, and my throat was a bit sore. We recalled that Vikum had a scratchy throat while in Souillac, so I assumed I might be coming down with a cold. I went straight to bed to rest in the hopes of preventing the cold from persisting.
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  • Day 41

    Canoë et Vélo

    September 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    One of the activities that we really wanted to do during our time in Souillac was to see some of the castles built into the cliffs above the Dordogne river by kayaking or canoeing along it.

    There was a kayak provider right next to the campground however they were starting to wind down given the summer season was finished and they no longer offered their service along the part of the river that we wanted to see. We searched for other providers and came across one in a nearby town called Roufillac. We managed to find a local bus that went to Roufillac and decided to head there to try to book a canoe for the following day, and maybe hire bikes to ride back. We were glad to see the bus, albeit 15 minutes late (considered on time in France), as there was no live departure info and we were worried it was going to show at all.

    Twenty minutes later and we had reached Roufillac. We stopped for a quick cold drink at a cafe then went to the canoe and bike hire location. There we met a very friendly French guy who told us a good canoe route for the next day and allowed us to hire some bikes. He also chatted with us about his time in New Zealand on holiday a few years back. Equipped with bikes, we rode the 15 kms back to the campsite, stopping for a swim in the river along the way to cool down.

    The next morning we woke early to ride back to the canoe and bike hire place in Roufillac so we could spend the day canoeing. The ride back was much nicer in morning while it was cooler. After dropping off the bikes, we were given some quick info and told that we would be picked up at La Roque Gageac, six hours downstream, at 4.30pm. It was another beautiful day and canoeing down the river was a great way to spend it. As we made our way along the river, we crossed several bridges and eventually the grassy river banks made way for rocky cliffs. Into some of these cliffs were built castles and homes, a truly incredible sight. Although hot and tiring at times, we stopped for plenty of swimming breaks and it was really cool experience overall.

    After reaching La Roque Gageac, we met the driver who loaded the canoes onto the trailer (H: after getting the location wrong once which was a little stressful when you’ve been canoeing in 30+ degree heat all day!) and drove us back to their base in Roufillac. We caught the bus back to Souillac and made our way back to the campsite. After a long day, we decided we didn’t feel like cooking and had a great meal at the restaurant located at the campsite including a pizza with local Rocamadour cheese. -V
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  • Day 39

    Sunny Souillac

    September 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Over the next few days, we enjoyed exploring Souillac, a relaxed town along the Dordogne River known for its 12th-century Abbey and its biking and canoeing opportunities. We wandered through the main town a few times, where an impressive church and clock tower loomed over the main Place Saint-Martin, still half-destroyed from the Wars of Religion in the 1500s. This was also when we had our first taste of how the smaller towns closed during the heat of the day, especially on weekdays while we were there. The town was sometimes eerily quiet, but this made it quite easy and calming to walk around.

    The week while we were in Souillac was hot. We had arrived in central France just as a heatwave made its way across the country, with the highest temperatures saved just for us. We spent so much time in the pool that it felt as though my hair was fried, and my eyes were constantly red from the chlorine. It was beautiful, albeit a little hard to get to sleep at times because we didn't have a fan in our cabin. Luckily, we had a large fridge and freezer, and we became very skilled in freezing our bottles of water to have ice packs and, subsequently, ice-cold water to drink. We cooked dinners that ultimately all tasted quite similar, as we had few flavoring ingredients with us, though it was comforting to have home-cooked meals nonetheless. Some of the euros we saved by cooking meals were then spent on the yummiest mojitos at the restaurant bar, not 2 meters from the pool gates at the campground. In 30-35 degree heat, when your vision is almost blurry with the heatwaves, nothing hits as well as a cold, fresh mojito. Another euro-saving idea was to hand wash our laundry instead of paying extortionate washing machine fees…it took so long. With hindsight we probably should have just paid the fee, but it killed some time and we had plenty of free time while we avoided going out in the sun during the middle of the day. Overall, our cabin was very comfortable (despite a few huge spiders that Vikum saved me from), and we had a really nice time here.
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  • Day 37

    La Dordogne

    September 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    After five days in the big city, it was time to head out to the countryside. Our destination was Souillac, a small town that was set along the Dordogne River.

    We had booked an intercity train which turned out to be extremely comfortable. Four hours on the train went by in no time, and we emerged into the bright sunshine of Souillac. Our accomodation was a cabin in Flower Campsite Les Ondines (the French version of Top 10) which was a 30 min walk from the train station. With our packs on and the sun beating down on us, it was a very hot and sweaty walk down to the campground. We were very glad to finally arrive and see a pool there. We checked in and headed to our wooden cabin, which was nice and had everything we needed, except air conditioning or a fan, sigh. We were in for a hot five days.

    After getting set up and unpacked, we headed off to the supermarket, which was another very sweaty walk in 30 degree plus heat. We made our way back to the campground, packed away the food, and headed immediately for the pool to cool off. We finished off the evening making dinner and relaxing. -V

    (We couldn’t find any condiments that weren’t in large containers which we knew we couldn’t take with us so we made absolutely flavourless chicken schnitzel with crushed croutons for crumbs haha -H)
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  • Day 36

    Château de Versailles: Let me eat cake!

    September 1, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Up early, we headed to Gare d’Austerlitz again to take the RER C train line out to Versailles. The ride was easy, and I was really excited because I’d been looking forward to seeing the Versailles palace gardens for a long time. It was cloudy morning, and rain clouds were a little ominous, so I was worried the day would be a washout, but we ended up quite lucky with only a few light showers and a sunny afternoon.

    Upon arrival, during one of the rain showers, I thanked the TikTok girlies for sharing a hack whereby you can reserve a table at the restaurant at opening time, enjoy a coffee/petit-déjeuner while people are lining up, then buy your tickets with a shortcut and skip any lines (or standing in rain). This day the lines weren’t great too, so it really felt VIP and clever to have done the research. And not everyone can say they ‘dined’ at Château de Versailles, right! Not to mention the restaurant has a menu by Michelin star chef Alain Ducasse, so the coffee was delicious and the basket of mini viennoiserie was really nice quality, and good value - it was not all that expensive in Paris terms! I also really liked what they named the rest of the breakfast menus; one translated to “The Queen’s Rising”. So we enjoyed our coffee, and I ate most of the pastries before sneaking past the line into the palace.

    Regardless of skipping lines, the palace is always busiest in the morning, so it was pretty solidly packed in many of the rooms and passages. Despite needing to shuffle past people, the grandness of the palace was overwhelming. We had an audio tour, but there was so much to look through. Listening to it all would’ve taken hours. Another day, I might’ve taken the time to listen to all of it, but the gardens were the priority while we didn’t know what the weather was going to do, plus Vikum’s patience for all the palaces was starting to wane. We walked through with a little more pace, and I focused on small highlights in each room. I loved the embroidery and wall coverings, as well as The Gallery of Great Battles - so interesting to see all the different styles of painters do very similar paintings. Little things like how they used perspective, varying levels of detail in the emotion of faces. Not to mention they’re impressively large! I also really liked to see the difference between the public dining rooms and the King’s personal dining rooms.

    After this, we headed out of the palace, and Vikum decided he’d had enough of the pomp and knowing I would spend hours roaming the gardens - he was going to head back to the Paris apartment to do some fitness, chill, and prep dinner. We first headed out of the palace to get lunch in the nearby Versailles town center and check out the local Notre-Dame markets. A really cool place with fresh produce and artisan foods.

    I headed back into Versailles to buy my ticket into the gardens and realized quickly we had picked a day for the “Musical Gardens” whereby baroque music played through hidden surround-sound speakers from around the ‘jardin et bosquets’ that led down to the Grand Canal. Now alone, immersed in exploring the nooks of the maze-like ‘bosquets’ and the ambient soundtrack playing around me…I started to feel a little naked without several petticoats and a bonnet. The hedges of the gardens were so tall and maze-like I might’ve gotten lost without a map, and there were plenty of times I found myself alone even though hundreds of other tourists were at Versailles this day.

    From here, I walked towards Apollo’s Fountain and watched the little garden train pick up groups of tourists from the “Little Venice” area and avoided the packed train to hire a bike, with a little basket. So cute. For a few hours, I zipped around the gardens, heading down to the Queen’s Hamlet, Marie Antoinette’s hidden retreat from the Royal Court; despite living in ridiculous riches, Marie Antoinette wanted to cosplay living a quiet farm life and used to take her closest friends for leisurely walks through the hamlet. What was interesting was just how small a percentage of the crowds bothered to go to the Queen’s Hamlet area. It was so quiet, and I found myself alone many times here. For a major tourist attraction, it was crazy how little the crowds toured out past the gardens in front of the palace. After riding around the Grand Canal, I dropped the bike back and walked to the train home. On the train home, I headed to the second floor of the carriage to find an ornately designed roof, in the theme of Versailles stickered onto the carriage ceiling - so fun!

    When arriving home, Vikum looked very relaxed. We ate a chill dinner, then packed up our bags ready for our 8:30 a.m. train the next morning out of Paris.
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